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rjmccall posted:Yeah, my wife is already talking about anchoring other things, so I’m definitely going to buy a tool. Currently, I’m waffling over anchoring techniques — there’s some attractiveness to the idea of only making reparable holes in the concrete back there. As I understand it, my best option there would be something like a concrete screw; sleeve and lag anchors can’t be taken out without ripping out a substantial amount of concrete, right? I don’t think I need to be too worried about rip-out force, the shed’ll be in a corner of a fence that it’s only like two inches taller than at its highest. Check the manual for the shed or call the manufacturer to ask them for guidelines for securing it. They might have specific recommendations for anchor size and minimum embedment or just say “minimum of X lbs of shear/pullout strength” Regarding the ability to remove it - I think sleeve/drop-in anchors would be your best bet, given that you can just unscrew the fastener and be left with a counter-sunk, patchable hole. So long as you find ones that meet required specs. Wedge anchors are most common for these applications as they are stronger, but the anchor cannot be removed afterwards…well, not consistently. So you’d have to get at it with a grinder/sawzall to get it flush and it would be hard to patch, etc
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Nov 25, 2023 20:12
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I hadn’t considered that I could just countersink the anchor and then potentially fill around it. I guess as long as nobody wants to put another anchor in exactly that spot, that would be fine.
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Nov 25, 2023 20:18
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The Top G posted:Regarding the ability to remove it - I think sleeve/drop-in anchors would be your best bet, given that you can just unscrew the fastener and be left with a counter-sunk, patchable hole. So long as you find ones that meet required specs. They make these in all ratings more or less. They are what our datacenters use to anchor 1500lbs+ racks to the foundation for seismic bracing. Given appropriate rated bolts and washers you're looking at the shed shearing away from the firmly planted anchor before the anchor even starts to give. (Subject to design of the shed blah blah blah.)
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Nov 25, 2023 21:13
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The Top G posted:Regarding the ability to remove it - I think sleeve/drop-in anchors would be your best bet, given that you can just unscrew the fastener and be left with a counter-sunk, patchable hole. So long as you find ones that meet required specs. Oh, I think I get it now. For some reason I was thinking that the sleeve wouldn’t be removable and you were talking about extracting the bolt, but of course that’s not how it works: it’s an inseparable unit, and once you remove the sleeve tension, it should pull right out. (I imaging this isn’t great for the concrete and isn’t a trick you should do too many times, though.) The shed (the Suncast model that’s ubiquitous at orange-box stores) says to use 1” washers and no more than 3/8” fasteners. They’re imagining lag bolts, I think. From videos, it looks like you just drill through thin spots in the floor that are about 2” wide. Since they’re sheltered, zinc-plated should be fine? Or is it worth hunting down stainless just because they’ll be on the ground and could potentially end up in a puddle?
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Nov 26, 2023 00:32
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They're undoubtedly talking about tapcons, not anchors. Don't overthink this because it's not that strong on the bottom where you're attaching it. You absolutely don't need actual anchors because the floor will give way, even with 1" or even 6" washers, long before it get anywhere near design strength of the anchor. You need these with fender washers and a standard battery hammer drill (rented/bought SDS will make this faster as noted) to make the holes for them: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tapcon-3-8-in-x-3-in-Hex-Washer-Head-Large-Diameter-Concrete-Anchors-10-Pack-11413/203770115 You can do more, but it's for no good purpose on a plastic shed. The weight of the contents on the floor is infinitely more important than the little anchors you're talking about. Park a mower in it. If that doesn't hold it down it wasn't getting held down in whatever wind storm carried it off. And if it does get carried off chances are good the floor will still be right there and it's gonna fail at the joints to the floor, none of which is addressed by the anchors you're putting down. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Nov 26, 2023 |
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Nov 26, 2023 00:38
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Alright, makes sense
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Nov 26, 2023 00:42
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Motronic posted:They're undoubtedly talking about tapcons, not anchors. Don't overthink this because it's not that strong on the bottom where you're attaching it. You absolutely don't need actual anchors because the floor will give way, even with 1" or even 6" washers, long before it get anywhere near design strength of the anchor. You are correct , any kind of 3/8” anchor ought to work … some municipalities/AHJ require assembly in accordance with manufacture guidelines even for a rinky dink little plastic shed so maybe stil worth a call to the buildings department H110Hawk posted:They make these in all ratings more or less. They are what our datacenters use to anchor 1500lbs+ racks to the foundation for seismic bracing. Given appropriate rated bolts and washers you're looking at the shed shearing away from the firmly planted anchor before the anchor even starts to give. (Subject to design of the shed blah blah blah.) Huh no kidding, I’ve never seen them used. I know they were among the first kinds of anchors, with lead sleeves you could tap into the hole, but I had heard that they largely got replaced by wedge anchors due to improved strength characteristic. I’ve only ever seen wedge anchors or all-thread + epoxy around here
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Nov 26, 2023 13:52
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The Top G posted:Huh no kidding, I’ve never seen them used. I know they were among the first kinds of anchors, with lead sleeves you could tap into the hole, but I had heard that they largely got replaced by wedge anchors due to improved strength characteristic. I’ve only ever seen wedge anchors or all-thread + epoxy around here Yeah it's nuts. They bore a hole, drop in the anchor (I don't know if they epoxy dip them or anything to secure them or if the expansion on the bottom is it), all thread through a earthquake plate at the base of the racks into the anchor, big washer, big nut, big torque. The all thread is to span the several feet of air between the raised floor and the foundation, otherwise it's just a rated bolt. This is in Los Angeles and is based on stamped engineering plans the city has signed off on. The basic premise is to keep the racks from falling over and killing someone in a earthquake up to a certain Richter point. Similar method for the overhead cable trays, but it's just all-thread to the ceiling and a bunch of rated hanging bits to hold the metal trays in place. We do pull-ups on them.
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Nov 26, 2023 16:47
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My experience with drop in anchors, the type you then bang down the wedge with a punch is: If installed properly they aren't coming out without some major fuckin lifting forces. They must be at the bottom of the hole to be most effective. If you remove the shed at a later time, instead of patching over the holes, just get a couple short bolts of the right thread and screw them in to the anchors.
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Nov 26, 2023 17:18
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in regards to the light bulb I mentioned earlier, I got one of the GE relax LED ones and no buzzing, so that's nice. And it has a CRI of 90 which isn't absolutely necessary, but can be really nice for doing things like jigsaw puzzles getting bulbs to use without a dimmer can be annoying if you are pretty specific. for LED it's basically 450 (40w equivalent) and then 800 (60w equivalent) lumens if you want something really nice. I was only able to find one 550 lumen bulb, which is listed as being for "agricultural" use (??) If you want to dim a three way light, do you need dimmers on both switches or just one? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Nov 26, 2023 |
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Nov 26, 2023 22:27
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So the light switch to my ceiling fan broke off sometime ago, my landlord came with a guy who replaced it, but: 1. Now the top switch, which previously controlled the lights, does nothing. 2. The bottom light switch, which just controlled the fans, now does both. Did they miswire it, and should I force them to try to fix it, or just ask someone else to do it?
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Nov 27, 2023 00:36
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That’s pretty standard, and you use pulls on the fan itself to control whether it’s the light or fan or both and to what degree. If it’s a fan that doesn’t have any setup for pulls, it’s a fuckup. Since they were previously wired separately, it shouldn’t be hard to watch a few YouTube videos, turn off the breaker, and separate the wires again.
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Nov 27, 2023 00:42
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i like nice words
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Raenir Salazar posted:So the light switch to my ceiling fan broke off sometime ago, my landlord came with a guy who replaced it, but: It should function like it did when you rented it. Assuming before you had 2 switches which controlled one function each it's miswired. Call em back. That electrician shouldn't be paid for the call back, it takes more effort to do it wrong with a blindly bright asterisk of: assuming they did it correctly.
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Nov 27, 2023 00:55
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What’s the pro way to repair an extension cord that’s damaged in the middle such that it’s still fit for outdoor use? I was thinking to cut out the damage, remake the connections, heat shrink or electrical tape over the conductors and self fusing tape over the outer jacket.
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Nov 27, 2023 13:50
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the yeti posted:What’s the pro way to repair an extension cord that’s damaged in the middle such that it’s still fit for outdoor use? Pretty much that except instead of the tape there are special outdoor junction boxes you can that are filled with gel and keep every sealed up
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Nov 27, 2023 15:42
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the yeti posted:What’s the pro way to repair an extension cord that’s damaged in the middle such that it’s still fit for outdoor use? Make it into two cords.
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Nov 27, 2023 18:11
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Anyone installed or had permanent christmas lights installed? They go behind the eves so you can't just get on the roof and install them from there. 22ft ladder won't get me to a couple spots. I'm having a helluva time finding any sort of service to do the spots I can't get to. As soon as I mention that a 22ft ladder won't get me there, everyone nopes out. Its making me nervous that there is something I don't know before I just go rent a 30 footer.
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Nov 27, 2023 22:14
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3-fly ladders are really goddamn heavy and therefore suck to set up and use.
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Nov 27, 2023 22:20
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actionjackson posted:
Just one dimmer. However, if you want to dim from the second location instead of just flipping a switch on and off, check the literature for whatever dimmer you pick. It will specify a matching "remote dinner" or similarly named accessory.
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Nov 27, 2023 22:36
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TacoHavoc posted:Just one dimmer. However, if you want to dim from the second location instead of just flipping a switch on and off, check the literature for whatever dimmer you pick. It will specify a matching "remote dinner" or similarly named accessory. ty edit: remote dinner actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Nov 27, 2023 |
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Nov 27, 2023 23:52
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Motronic posted:3-fly ladders are really goddamn heavy and therefore suck to set up and use. I used to use a 2-fly 30ft occasionally when I was a cable guy, but it was also really goddamn heavy and sucked to set up and use. Rent a cherry picker instead imo
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Nov 27, 2023 23:54
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Opopanax posted:Rent a cherry picker instead imo This is absolutely the correct advice.
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Nov 27, 2023 23:57
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the yeti posted:What’s the pro way to repair an extension cord that’s damaged in the middle such that it’s still fit for outdoor use? As jetz0r said, the 'pro' way to do it is concede that you now own two extension cords (you cut out the damaged area and install two new plug ends, making two cords where you originally had one). These are considered 'shop made cords' to distinguish them from 'approved cords'. There's more to it than that, but since you're probably talking about a household cord the most important safety aspect is advising you not to try and repair damaged insulation/sheathing around a conductor in a flexible cord.
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Nov 27, 2023 23:58
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So we bought our house from a retired engineer, and he applied engineer brain to *everything*, which has been mostly uneventful (if our electrician and plumber both expressed a variant of "it works...but it'd never pass code"). Thing is, our front door is a double keyed ASSA model jibblity gooble, and I can't find anyone who has blanks to have a $20 replacement key made. In fact, the clerk at the locksmith gave me a distinct look and asked "who is this...for..." in a way that made me feel like a real dumb crook. What's a good replacement that doesn't have $20 replacement keys? For reference, we have glass windows on the porch, so this level of security is actually more of a fire hazard than an anti-intrusion measure.
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Nov 28, 2023 00:08
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You have a patentend keyway or something there. That's medeco money (ASSA and all the majors have this.) Just get whatever your locksmith sells. I think we're putting in emtek hardware in the new house? Kwikset non-quickkey (kw1 keyway) is totally fine. Otherwise Schlage and Yale make some nice stuff. Edit: oh and once you replace it please post a picture. You can likely sell that lock too. It was probably over $100 just to get the keyway and custom biting. Only the original locksmith or a ASSA certified shop can order let alone cut blanks. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Nov 28, 2023 |
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Nov 28, 2023 00:21
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the yeti posted:What’s the pro way to repair an extension cord that’s damaged in the middle such that it’s still fit for outdoor use? jetz0r posted:Make it into two cords. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Nov 28, 2023 |
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Nov 28, 2023 01:02
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I rekeyed my whole house using Schlage. They sell residential re-keying kits so you can just remove the cylinder pins and set it to whatever key profile you want. I did have to order two new knobs, but now a single key opens all exterior doors and garages. It cost me less than it would have to have a locksmith do it all, and I also have the capacity to re-key any future locks, provided they’re the same Schlage keyway.
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Nov 28, 2023 02:07
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bloody ghost titty posted:So we bought our house from a retired engineer, and he applied engineer brain to *everything*, which has been mostly uneventful (if our electrician and plumber both expressed a variant of "it works...but it'd never pass code"). Thing is, our front door is a double keyed ASSA model jibblity gooble, and I can't find anyone who has blanks to have a $20 replacement key made. In fact, the clerk at the locksmith gave me a distinct look and asked "who is this...for..." in a way that made me feel like a real dumb crook. It’s fun how completely predictable it is that members of a profession that ostensibly live and die by standards act like they have no idea what a building code is
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Nov 28, 2023 04:22
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Anne Whateley posted:That’s pretty standard, and you use pulls on the fan itself to control whether it’s the light or fan or both and to what degree. If it’s a fan that doesn’t have any setup for pulls, it’s a fuckup. (Almost) every new fan these days wants to use a single switch for power and then make you use their dumb remote control to operate the lights or fan separately. Not in this house, buster!
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Nov 28, 2023 05:46
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bloody ghost titty posted:So we bought our house from a retired engineer, and he applied engineer brain to *everything*, which has been mostly uneventful (if our electrician and plumber both expressed a variant of "it works...but it'd never pass code"). Thing is, our front door is a double keyed ASSA model jibblity gooble, and I can't find anyone who has blanks to have a $20 replacement key made. In fact, the clerk at the locksmith gave me a distinct look and asked "who is this...for..." in a way that made me feel like a real dumb crook. Kwikset with smart key lets you re-key it yourself in like 30 seconds, highly recommended
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Nov 28, 2023 11:48
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The Top G posted:Kwikset with smart key lets you re-key it yourself in like 30 seconds, highly recommended Yeah, if you’re buying new hardware, do this. Most of my house already had Schlage cylinders, so the buy in cost to re-key was incredibly low.
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Nov 28, 2023 14:53
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Opopanax posted:Rent a cherry picker instead imo QFT A buddy of mine painted my house when I bought it (professional painter). Unbeknownst to me, he borrowed my two 20' ladders and "chained them together" to make it to the 25' apex of the gable end of the house. I didn't even see it and it still gave me the heebie jeebies. He said he does it all the time. Them's a different breed.
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Nov 28, 2023 15:27
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RE: Cherry picker I was looking into it, but it was a bit of a headache. My drive\walkway are pavers and not level of course. All the cherry pickers I could find seems to start at ~15k lbs. Delivery is twice the cost of rental, I have zero experience with them. Looks like one of the tow behind self leveling ones might get the job done if I back it into the driveway, but I gotta figure out the slope of the driveway and if the leveling feet will hurt the pavers.
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Nov 28, 2023 16:26
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You could always put fresh pavers under the feet
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Nov 28, 2023 17:35
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Worst comes to worst, maybe try a roofing company? They would have tools and experience getting up into those high spots at least, one of them might be willing to do a small job like this for you
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Nov 28, 2023 17:53
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bobua posted:RE: Cherry picker
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Nov 28, 2023 18:03
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wesleywillis posted:Get a sheet of plywood and cut it in to pieces to put under them.
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Nov 28, 2023 18:16
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Yeah that's the current plan. Gonna try and park it right where the truck is and reach the second floor directly in front of the truck, and directly above the front door. Does the max horizontal reach rating on these things work like it sounds like it should?
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Nov 28, 2023 18:33
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bobua posted:
Check the model you're renting for the correct chart. It will show you how high and out you can go and with what load.
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Nov 28, 2023 21:54
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yeah there was just too much variability and worries. I reserved a 50ft tow behind model. Probably could have gone with a smaller one and pull it into the yard but i don't want to worry about the edge of the pavers and sprinkler system, etc. This whole project is still about 5k cheaper than paying the pros to do permanent christmas lights, but jesus what a headache.
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Nov 28, 2023 22:15
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