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the yeti posted:It’s fun how completely predictable it is that members of a profession that ostensibly live and die by standards act like they have no idea what a building code is Code is for people that aren't engineers!
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Nov 28, 2023 23:35
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I have a murphy bed that’s been lag bolted to the wall studs until today when we took it off to replace the flooring. We went from carpet to laminate so of course 1) the holes don’t align, 2) even if they did the hole is stripped and 3) the difference is small enough that new holes aren’t biting either. How screwed (lol) am I? I don’t have the exact number with me but the bolts are in the vicinity of 1/4”. I used every stud it reaches so there’s nothing fresh to attach to. Is there any way to patch the studs, or some bracket system I could use to relocate the mounting point?  
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Nov 29, 2023 01:38
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Raise it an inch or two.
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Nov 29, 2023 02:00
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Yes, either raise or lower it. If that’s not an option, cut zip ties to size and put 2-3 in the holes before re-fastening the lag bolts. The plastic deforms to fill the wallowed-out hole and grab the screw, like a homemade concrete anchor. For additional security fasten a 2x directly underneath, flush to the bed frame, mounting it to the studs
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Nov 29, 2023 14:13
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If you have a Murphy bed, you probably don't have a lot of space to move, but can you move it over by 16 inches, or whatever your stud spacing is?
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Nov 29, 2023 15:42
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dupersaurus posted:I have a murphy bed that’s been lag bolted to the wall studs until today when we took it off to replace the flooring. We went from carpet to laminate so of course 1) the holes don’t align, 2) even if they did the hole is stripped and 3) the difference is small enough that new holes aren’t biting either. How screwed (lol) am I? Put some wood filler/glue/skewers in the hole to fill it like how you fix a sagging door hinge?
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Nov 29, 2023 17:55
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Wasabi the J posted:Put some wood filler/glue/skewers in the hole to fill it like how you fix a sagging door hinge? That was my first thought but I'm not sure how sound that is with a 1/4 inch hole? wesleywillis posted:If you have a Murphy bed, you probably don't have a lot of space to move, but can you move it over by 16 inches, or whatever your stud spacing is? I could scoot a couple of inches to get to one fresh stud, but that doesn't fix the other four PainterofCrap posted:Raise it an inch or two. Probably the way to go
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Nov 29, 2023 19:13
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The proper answer instead of skewers is a wood dowel glued in and cut flush. You said the holes are a little hogged out, so whether you raise it or not you'll need to address those. 1/4” dowels are a couple bucks, feet or boards to raise it up aren't much more. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 29, 2023 |
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Nov 29, 2023 19:27
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How do you safely walk around on house's roof?
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Nov 29, 2023 21:15
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NotNut posted:How do you safely walk around on house's roof? It depends alot on the roof slope, roofing material, weather conditions etc. both to keep you and the roof unharmed. Pretty much every roofer wears sneakers not boots because they're a lot better on roofs. Keep your body low, don't be afraid to get two 3" thick pieces of upholstery foam and leapfrog/crawl around them, especially if you have a fragile roof. Asphalt shingles are usually pretty grippy and not bad to walk on, silicone coated metal roofing is incredibly slippery if its even slightly wet.
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Nov 29, 2023 21:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Very carefully. In addition to this good advice, depending on the time of year, you might also want to walk around on roofs early in the morning before the sun makes them too hot to touch.
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Nov 29, 2023 21:28
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kid sinister posted:In addition to this good advice, depending on the time of year, you might also want to walk around on roofs early in the morning before the sun makes them too hot to touch. You have 15 minutes.
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Nov 29, 2023 21:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You have 15 minutes. This is absolute 100% fact.
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Nov 29, 2023 21:40
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There’s no such thing as an installable fall arrest hardpoint for residential roofs I guess?
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Nov 29, 2023 21:51
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I've definitely seen roof workers wearing what I assume are fall arrest harnesses, working on two-story houses in my neighborhood. I dunno how exactly they're rigged up to make sure the rope stops them before they hit the ground, though. The roof is pretty big, and at the edges it's not that far from the ground.
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Nov 29, 2023 21:56
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I am livid right now. I contracted a company to fix a foundation crack and install a sump pump. It was only about $4K, which seemed reasonable. They dig up the basement floor a bit and find that our waste water lines are still cast iron, which should have been replaced when the last owner installed a new bathroom 10 years ago. The pipes are basically just rust are are dumping water into the soil. The original contractors are now stalled because they can't fill in the concrete because the pipes right next to their site are exposed and have to be fixed first. All told this is going to be $20K and I am nauseous with stress. I don't have that kind of money.
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Nov 29, 2023 22:50
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Anyone know where I should ask about issues with LED bulbs? I replaced the bulbs in my ceiling fan and they were fine for a couple weeks, but now they're starting to flicker (usually one of the four elements inside the bulb kicking on and off) and I don't get what's up or what to do. There's no dimmer in play which is 90% of what google turns up.
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Nov 30, 2023 00:05
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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PittTheElder posted:Anyone know where I should ask about issues with LED bulbs? I replaced the bulbs in my ceiling fan and they were fine for a couple weeks, but now they're starting to flicker (usually one of the four elements inside the bulb kicking on and off) and I don't get what's up or what to do. There's no dimmer in play which is 90% of what google turns up. Put it in another fixture and see if it does that same thing. It probably will, and that means the bulb is bad. Happens a lot.
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Nov 30, 2023 00:11
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Fair point, multiple bulbs are doing it which was making me worry something bigger was going on, but it is multiple bulbs from the same pack, so maybe something specific to them. The Phillips Hue Bulb I pulled from the other room (installed in a matching fan) is acting fine thus far, I'll have to try the opposite as well.
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Nov 30, 2023 00:33
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Inzombiac posted:I am livid right now. Get several/numerous quotes, also look into rerouting and abandoning the old cast iron, or relining the existing pipe, it can sometimes be considerably cheaper. Some contractors do 0% self financing or a good option for a new CC with a huge cash back sign on bonus and an immediate 0% for xx transfer and pay it off before it ends.
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Nov 30, 2023 01:22
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Inzombiac posted:I am livid right now. Yeah idk who gave you the 20k quote (if it was the same people doing the original work, definitely shop around) but for sure look into lining the pipes. ‘Cured in place pipe’ is the keyword you want. Remember your sewer pipes were basically working fine until they started work so they should continue working fine and this isn’t a problem you have to fix tomorrow. Who is saying the pipes ‘have to be fixed tomorrow’? Unless it’s an inspector-no they don’t. This all sounds like a high pressure sales tactic to get you to spend a bunch of money now with the company when this could very well be a next year or next decade or never problem. There is nothing inherently wrong with cast iron pipe-it is still used-and I don’t know why it ‘should have been replaced’ when a new bathroom was done. There are cast iron pipes still in use that are 200+ years old. I assume the original contractor has not been paid in full yet-do not pay them yet, tell them you’re going to get some other quotes on the plumbing work, and I wouldn’t be surprised if the problem magically disappears since they’re gonna want to move on and get paid. I obviously don’t know the situation and all the details-your pipes may in fact be FUBAR-but if your toilets still flush, this isn’t an emergency you need to throw $20k at tomorrow. Post some pics of the pipes and the situation and people who know more about plumbing than I do will be glad to give you a second opinion.
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Nov 30, 2023 02:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah idk who gave you the 20k quote (if it was the same people doing the original work, definitely shop around) but for sure look into lining the pipes. ‘Cured in place pipe’ is the keyword you want. CIPP is more expensive then just replacing, especially if they're already visible due to other concrete work.
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Nov 30, 2023 03:06
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NotNut posted:How do you safely walk around on house's roof? If you're gonna go: First thing is proper footwear. Boots with crepe soles, like Cougar Paws. No sneakers. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:But not if it's a metal roof covered in dew!! Then wait to get on the roof until after the sun burns the dew off, but before it gets too got. the yeti posted:There’s no such thing as an installable fall arrest hardpoint for residential roofs I guess?
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Nov 30, 2023 03:42
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devicenull posted:CIPP is more expensive then just replacing, especially if they're already visible due to other concrete work. Right, one contractor dug up the area for one issue and I called in a plumber for the very clearly dissolving iron pipes. You could turn on the sink and watch water flow out of the pipe in the next room. poo poo is wack. I checked to make sure it wasn't a jackhammer that caused a rupture and yeah, the bottom of the whole pipe was rusting away. Broke out the scope and it was gnarly inside. There's just no getting around it. And to be clear, it was 5k for the foundation repair/sump pump and 15K for the pipe work. I'd argue more about the price but what they are having to do is fairly extensive. The old iron pipe is getting bypassed in favor of connecting to the newer ABS system. It was either dig up part of the floor or tear up my giant shower and the adjoining room. I've applied for their 0% financing, which is a perfectly reasonable price per month. We can afford this level of repair, we just don't have that much liquid cash right now.
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Nov 30, 2023 04:15
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Aaaand sometimes it really is just as bad as it looks.
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Nov 30, 2023 04:44
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the yeti posted:There’s no such thing as an installable fall arrest hardpoint for residential roofs I guess? Hell yes there are. Temper Anchors are going to be your best bet, as you can mount them to the ridge of the roof with comparatively little effort, the D-ring can flip down to minimally interfere with your roof aesthetic, and their low profile and multiple mounting surfaces minimize the leverage that a load will achieve and therefore likelihood for damage. If you have ridge vents you can use a short post-style anchor on the less visible side of your house, but recognize that the post will offer leverage to a falling load. It's unlikely to fail if installed correctly, but more likely to damage the mounting surface. Also any fall on the opposite side of the roof will damage the ridge vent, but it's normally easier to replace a ridge vent than a human skull or ribcage. You'll want to consult a structural engineer of some sort to confirm, but a normal residential roof at least in Florida is capable of accepting a hardpoint with minimal modification, if any. The temper anchor linked above accepts something ludicrous like 40 screws so it doesn't even need a truss underneath with the proper fasteners. We had several guys on our team who installed anchors on their own roofs (because we all had full harnesses and arrestors so why the hell not?) and from what we heard, those who had them used them often and never had problems, and I know those dumb fuckers didn't get an engineer out over it. In either case you'll want a suitable harness connected by a self-retracting lanyard with a short stop distance, my 2 ft stop self-retracting arrestor frequently turned what could have been lethal falls into brief stumbles where I didn't even exit the work area (fall off the roof). I no longer work in construction, but when I did our equipment was all Guardian and it seemed to work well and last long (though the only anchor we ever permanently installed was on our own roof, the rest traveled from site to site with us for cases where the site-installed anchor points were extremely unsuitable) so you can consider those links a recommendation. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Aaaand sometimes it really is just as bad as it looks. Aw beans, how many quotes did you get? Also, uh, pics? Shit Fuckasaurus fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Nov 30, 2023 |
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Nov 30, 2023 08:25
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Inzombiac posted:I am livid right now. It's a long shot, but go read, actually read, all of your homeowners insurance policy. Some companies include sublimits for repair/replace degraded piping. 2 years ago I had a similar discovery and ended up doing cured in place pipe relining for everything under my slab. My homeowners had a 10k sublimit with 500 deductible. We submitted the claim, they spent 5 minutes looking at a picture and cut me a 10k check. It is worth the 30 minutes of reading to see. But actually read, don't just ask them. If you read and your understanding from the wording is there is coverage, submit the claim and fight for it
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Nov 30, 2023 12:54
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poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:Hell yes there are. Temper Anchors are going to be your best bet, as you can mount them to the ridge of the roof with comparatively little effort, the D-ring can flip down to minimally interfere with your roof aesthetic, and their low profile and multiple mounting surfaces minimize the leverage that a load will achieve and therefore likelihood for damage. If you have ridge vents you can use a short post-style anchor on the less visible side of your house, but recognize that the post will offer leverage to a falling load. It's unlikely to fail if installed correctly, but more likely to damage the mounting surface. Also any fall on the opposite side of the roof will damage the ridge vent, but it's normally easier to replace a ridge vent than a human skull or ribcage. Thanks for all the info, I appreciate it a bunch.
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Nov 30, 2023 13:52
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emocrat posted:It's a long shot, but go read, actually read, all of your homeowners insurance policy. Some companies include sublimits for repair/replace degraded piping. Thanks for the advice but unfortunately the policy has specific exclusions for wear and tear, including pipes. They wouldn't cover it unless one of the pipes broke and flooded/damaged the house. Since they broke and were just dumping in to the soil, they don't cover it. I'll hear back about the financing by the end of the week. If we get it, we will be 100% fine. My wife and I are frugal as hell and we had more than enough to cover the 5K contract but obviously don't have 20K laying around normally. I sure as poo poo am not going to borrow against my retirement or anything nuts like that. Our credit union also has very reasonable rate for home repair loans, so that's always a backup. I'm mostly stressed about the giant hole in my floor and the huge amount of rain coming our way. The sump is installed and working, it's just the pipe and trench that need to be finalized.
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Nov 30, 2023 16:27
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It depends on your retirement plan and employer. If you have a 401(k) of sufficient balance (probably +$60K, you can borrow ($15K) against it; you'd be paying yourself back with interest. I did this twice, and it's seamless. My employer draws the monthly payment straight out of my paycheck. It's a streamlined process with little risk. Check your policy and see if you have a "service line endorsement." This is what Inzombieac was referring to. What you quoted is what is in the HO-3 (standard, or enhanced); this would be a separate endorsement. It may also appear (buried) in a package endorsement. If you aren't sure, I'll go through your decs and endorsements via PM. It can be difficult to locate. In the alternative: call your agent and ask if you have a service line endorsement. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Nov 30, 2023 |
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Nov 30, 2023 17:53
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Inzombiac posted:Right, one contractor dug up the area for one issue and I called in a plumber for the very clearly dissolving iron pipes. Get a backwater valve put in as part of the work. It's like $50 in parts, and will prevent poo poo water from backing up into your house if the sewer system has any issues.
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Dec 1, 2023 01:17
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devicenull posted:Get a backwater valve put in as part of the work. It's like $50 in parts, and will prevent poo poo water from backing up into your house if the sewer system has any issues. Haha it's funny you mentioned that! I didn't think I had one (because they have to be accessible) but scoping the pipes turned out there is one... in a really lovely place. Not the end of the world but I'm going to try and move it while the floor is open. I'm just happy that it was perfectly clean and had no evidence that it was needed.
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Dec 1, 2023 02:31
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does anyone know how to adjust water pressure regulators of this type? our water pressure is a bit low and i noticed the gauge is reading 10 when i suppose by default this should be set at 15, so i was considering raising it maybe even to just 11 to be on the safe side/save money. but instructions on this particular type/style/brand or whatever aren't super clearly documented from what i can find o.O to the best of my understanding, what i'm supposed to do is: 1. use the thumb wing (right-most side of the photo subject) to rotate CCW, removing the smooth/unridged gold-colored 'cover' 2. use wrench to gently loosen the gray/silver lock-nut (which is touching the Watts info label) 3. with the lock-nut loosened and 'cover' removed, gently tighten the uncovered gold-colored, ridged 'stem' inward (CW?) no more than 1/4 turn at a time 4. re-tighten lock-nut with wrench 5. re-cover, use thumb wing to secure in place 6. wait several minutes, check pressure 7. repeat if needed is the above safe/correct? if not, what should i do differently? thanks in advance!
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Dec 1, 2023 07:46
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My electric dryer died last week. I checked the door, it was fine, I check the start button, it was fine, but the thermal fuse had no continuity, so I ordered a new one and it should arrive tomorrow. I probably also need to clean out the vent, but I want to make sure the new fuse fixes the problem before going to the trouble of doing the vent. Can I test the dryer for like 30 seconds without being hooked up to anything to see if the new fuse works or is that stupid?
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Dec 1, 2023 19:11
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It's an electric dryer: it's fine. The worst that will happen is that it's going to make a mess blowing lint all over. But why does it matter? Even if the thermal fuse doesn't work surely you're going to either fix that dryer eventually or buy a new one to go in that exact spot, so you still need to clean the vent.
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Dec 1, 2023 19:33
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In terms of comes-in-a-can expanding foam, is one brand as good as another? I just need it to stick to masonry and lumber, fill gaps and ideally not taste great to rodents.
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Dec 2, 2023 16:29
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Yeah basically. I've heard about a bunch of formula changes over the last 5-10 years that seem to have thrown a wrench in what used to have a good rep anyways. Use the stuff for windows/doors around windows and doors, or any other thing that can't be deformed, as the foam can expand enough to cause problems. Rodents will eat this poo poo no problem. They make an anti-rodent one with Embedding steel wool or similar works well. Edit: i should add i actually tried some random cheapo brand instead of great stuff recently. I found it expanded and cured fine, but it did take a bit longer than I was used to. Still effective, saved 4 bucks. Edit 2: i was wrong about poison Jenkl fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Dec 2, 2023 |
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Dec 2, 2023 16:33
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Yeah; they all suck. Joking aside: by & large, yes, though examine the different types to see if one is more suited to your application than another. Them wear clothes you'll never see again, and gloves. And prepare to bathe in acetone should any escape.
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Dec 2, 2023 16:34
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I’ll prob try the steel wool route if I find any definite rodent holes, not fond of poisoning rodents because of the potential for impact up the food chain.
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Dec 2, 2023 16:41
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the yeti posted:I’ll prob try the steel wool route if I find any definite rodent holes, not fond of poisoning rodents because of the potential for impact up the food chain. Steel wool plus the rodent proof foam is how I do it. They do not put poison in it - at least not he great stuff kind. Last can I had was some sort of bitterant/things that don't taste good to them plus metal pieces/strands that they won't like chewing on. I doubt ANY of them put actual pesticide in it because that is a nightmare commercially. Your handyman/the general contractor building an addition would need a state pesticide application license to apply it, which would be just ludicrous.
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Dec 2, 2023 16:56
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