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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Eeyo posted:

Wait people have coherent styles in their house?

I think mine is "random poo poo"

Having kids means we've had nice houses with "dorm room chic" interiors. Just a couple of more years before they're old enough to not ruin anything new we get!

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Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Saw a funny but not at all joking post about dressing your kids in all white for a week to figure out if you can get nice furniture yet.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


nwin posted:

Pocket doors were my first choice but I’ve got electrical outlets and switches.

I wonder if like a decorative folding screen would work? It could live folded up in a corner or semi-folded up in the space a barn door would occupy. Basically would be about the level of privacy of a barn door but wouldn't look like a barn door and doesn't have to be attached to the house. I am sure someone makes some tall enough to really cover the opening or it would be easy to DIY out of some plywood, 1x trim and hinges. Cover the panels in some cute wallpaper or fabric. You could mount some hooks or somethin on the cased opening so it can be closed from the interior and fairly well seal up the opening for privacy.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

That is a dual purpose kids playroom and guest room? If it were me, I would use the French doors, and if needed reframe the wall to close up the entrance until it can fit smaller French doors that don’t impede upon the space too much. That’s for me, because whenever I’ve had to sleep in a guest room that just has a curtain or screen, it makes me a very anxious guest.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Yeah. Wife and I aren’t fans of the curtains or bifold doors.

The barn door doesn’t go with…anything.

The French doors are nice but they take up space in a small room when opened (which they will be 99% of the time). Our kids are young so the toys will be there for a while and we won’t realistically use it as an office for another 2 years. We have guests stay for a few days like…two times a year? I just hate putting them in that room with a cot and literally no privacy.

I think the easiest solution is the closet sliding doors. My wife is good with those ones that have frosted glass on them. It will reduce the opening of the space, but guests can at least enclose themselves in their space when staying with us. It doesn’t require any reframing of the wall, and whenever we sell this place, I can easily take the sliding doors off and patch the trim.

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



You can get barn door like functionality that don't look like barn doors. Like these

They look nice to me

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

"barn door" is a description of the hinge/operation. Those are very much barn doors.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


We have 3 panel sliders with frosted panes on our living room and I love them.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

peanut posted:

We have 3 panel sliders with frosted panes on our living room and I love them.



Ooh those are nice.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

peanut posted:

We have 3 panel sliders with frosted panes on our living room and I love them.



God those are great. I’m guessing I have to go to an actual door store to get something like that. Home Depot has Jack and poo poo.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

nwin posted:

Home Depot has Jack and or poo poo.

Never both.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


peanut posted:

We have 3 panel sliders with frosted panes on our living room and I love them.



Gorgeous. 1960s?

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

peanut posted:

We have 3 panel sliders with frosted panes on our living room and I love them.



Those are really nice, We are going to try to do the same thing in our living room with Ikea sliders.
They may turn out horrible and we have to buy the real ones, which are something like $2k a panel plus 2k shipping
Ps if it turns into a horrible construction nightmare Im not showing anyone

https://raydoor.com/systems/sliding/stacking/

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Shifty Pony posted:

Saw a funny but not at all joking post about dressing your kids in all white for a week to figure out if you can get nice furniture yet.

I took my quite-young children to a brunch in someone's fancy house and all the furniture was perfect white leather (they had explicitly told me that kids were OK.)
Almost the first thing they did was pour them a tall glass of OJ.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Isn’t one of the main points of leather that it wipes off?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Arsenic Lupin posted:

Gorgeous. 1960s?

2016 Japan, with very realistic woodgrain surface. It has a mechanism that makes two panels slide at the same time (連動引き戸).
All of our doors are from this series but most are horizontal grain swing doors. I regret not choosing sliders everywhere.

https://www.ykkap.co.jp/consumer/search/products/interior/sliding

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Is this the correct thread to ask for advice on how to break these rusted gas pipe fittings loose?

Living in central Texas where we have lost power and heating two years in a row I figure I should finally get my fireplace cleaned up and in working order.

First on the list is that the log started pipe has totally fallen apart so I went out and bought a replacement. Problem is that all the fittings are so rusted that I can't break anything loose.

The log starter pipe is also resting against the floor of the fire place and so I assume I should try to rotate it up a bit before trying to twist it off.

I've tried soaking all the fittings in PB Blaster but that had no effect. Then, today, I bought a MAP gas torch and heated the poo poo out of a few of the elbows and tried loosening the joints at several of them without having any success. In addition, the fittings are all pretty close together and close to the walls and floor so I can't easily get my two big pipe wrenches in there. I've since bruised my palms trying to loosen the fittings with a pipe wrench and channel locks. After it all cooled down, tonight, I sprayed more PB Blaster on the joints... Maybe it will be loosened a little tomorrow.

I had originally contacted a plumber I've used about this, and he quickly responded that this should be an easy DIY job. I don't know if he wanted to save me money or just didn't want to do it, but I've now spent $70 on the torch and a second pipe wrench so I'm a little annoyed.

Any ideas on what else to do here?



Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


MetaJew posted:


Any ideas on what else to do here?


I had a similar issue in my last house. The solution was to use a cutoff wheel to get rid of the elbowed and hosed up bits and then I went in the crawl space where I could get on the existing pipe with the big pipe wrenches. After that it was easy and instead of the mess of fittings I installed flexible stainless gas hose for the last bit. I also added a quality shut off in a convenient location instead of behind the gas log.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

MetaJew posted:

Is this the correct thread to ask for advice on how to break these rusted gas pipe fittings loose?

Living in central Texas where we have lost power and heating two years in a row I figure I should finally get my fireplace cleaned up and in working order.

First on the list is that the log started pipe has totally fallen apart so I went out and bought a replacement. Problem is that all the fittings are so rusted that I can't break anything loose.

The log starter pipe is also resting against the floor of the fire place and so I assume I should try to rotate it up a bit before trying to twist it off.

I've tried soaking all the fittings in PB Blaster but that had no effect. Then, today, I bought a MAP gas torch and heated the poo poo out of a few of the elbows and tried loosening the joints at several of them without having any success. In addition, the fittings are all pretty close together and close to the walls and floor so I can't easily get my two big pipe wrenches in there. I've since bruised my palms trying to loosen the fittings with a pipe wrench and channel locks. After it all cooled down, tonight, I sprayed more PB Blaster on the joints... Maybe it will be loosened a little tomorrow.

I had originally contacted a plumber I've used about this, and he quickly responded that this should be an easy DIY job. I don't know if he wanted to save me money or just didn't want to do it, but I've now spent $70 on the torch and a second pipe wrench so I'm a little annoyed.

Any ideas on what else to do here?





hit it with your purse

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



MetaJew posted:

...

Any ideas on what else to do here?

Yooper's on the right track. The galvanized pipe is toast. If you can, you need to start at the run outside of the fireplace if you have access. You are trying to work in a tight spot with large wrenches and that is frustrating.

If you can't get to the run further up the line, you need to break it loose somewhere in the firebox - try rotating the whole assembly from horizontal to vertical, cracking loose the threads after the first elbow. The leverage of the extra length should make it somewhat easier and you'll have more room to swing it.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Dec 5, 2023

Hungry Squirrel
Jun 30, 2008

You gonna eat that?

Final Blog Entry posted:


Trying some stainless hooks screwed into the soffit, did a small section and will see how it looks after dark.


How did this turn out? And if it's going well, what size hooks did you use?

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

Hungry Squirrel posted:

How did this turn out? And if it's going well, what size hooks did you use?

Put a small section of lights up and it'll work out so I'm going for it on the rest of the house. I'm using these screw eyes and bending them open to the side enough to get the wire into. I'm able to hand thread them directly into the vent holes of the vinyl soffit. I've got a bunch of the hooks up but no lights yet, I need to run around to some more Home Depots to round up more screw eyes this week and gotta borrow a bigger ladder to get to the high peak over my garage. Hopefully can get it all done this weekend.

I also bought some of these hooks that would have worked great, but they're pretty big and I was worried about them being a little to noticeable leaving them up the rest of the year.

Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Dec 5, 2023

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Yooper posted:

I had a similar issue in my last house. The solution was to use a cutoff wheel to get rid of the elbowed and hosed up bits and then I went in the crawl space where I could get on the existing pipe with the big pipe wrenches. After that it was easy and instead of the mess of fittings I installed flexible stainless gas hose for the last bit. I also added a quality shut off in a convenient location instead of behind the gas log.



PainterofCrap posted:

Yooper's on the right track. The galvanized pipe is toast. If you can, you need to start at the run outside of the fireplace if you have access. You are trying to work in a tight spot with large wrenches and that is frustrating.

If you can't get to the run further up the line, you need to break it loose somewhere in the firebox - try rotating the whole assembly from horizontal to vertical, cracking loose the threads after the first elbow. The leverage of the extra length should make it somewhat easier and you'll have more room to swing it.

Well I should've done this years ago when I had the fireplace brick facade off, but I have no way of accessing the pipe and valve inside the wall without either cutting open the tile and wall, or removing exterior siding...

I will try to rotate the elbow up, on the right side and see if I can crack anything loose.... And if not admit defeat, and text my plumber again.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

What kind of an investment am I looking at if I want to buy enough lights to string up a single tree? How many feet of lights? The catch is I want to individually wrap every branch in lights, to the farthest possible extent, like the type of pro job that you see in fancy gardens. Tree is a 35 year old maple tree similar in size to this one on the right

Invalid Validation
Jan 13, 2008




I’d say probably 500 to a grand.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I really would like to rebuild the closet doors in my master bedroom, so instead of two sets of sliding doors it's one super wide set. The doors and hardware are, not cheap, but not ridiculous. It's a pretty straightforward demo and framing gig, delete a little section of wall and add a massive header.

Then I imagined moving the clothes.

Now I have to never have this idea again. Absolute lowest priority job i could do.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


kreeningsons posted:

What kind of an investment am I looking at if I want to buy enough lights to string up a single tree? How many feet of lights? The catch is I want to individually wrap every branch in lights, to the farthest possible extent, like the type of pro job that you see in fancy gardens. Tree is a 35 year old maple tree similar in size to this one on the right

Those professional installations use 2" or 4" spacing lights, wrapped with 2"-3" interval between each pass around. The formula ends up being (12*π*diameter(in))/(interval*spacing) lights per foot of wrapped trunk/branch, so 5' of 8" diameter trunk will take 125 4" spacing bulbs, or about $60 worth of LEDs.

You'll need to rent a cherry picker too.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

StormDrain posted:

I really would like to rebuild the closet doors in my master bedroom, so instead of two sets of sliding doors it's one super wide set. The doors and hardware are, not cheap, but not ridiculous. It's a pretty straightforward demo and framing gig, delete a little section of wall and add a massive header.

Then I imagined moving the clothes.

Now I have to never have this idea again. Absolute lowest priority job i could do.

A few houses ago my closet had built in drawers, which was sweet. My current closet does not, but a different closet in our house does, and it's modular so I can just slot them in to mine. It's a job as easy and straightforward as they come, but I still haven't managed to bump it up the list.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

MetaJew posted:

Well I should've done this years ago when I had the fireplace brick facade off, but I have no way of accessing the pipe and valve inside the wall without either cutting open the tile and wall, or removing exterior siding...

I will try to rotate the elbow up, on the right side and see if I can crack anything loose.... And if not admit defeat, and text my plumber again.

Update: I got the old log lighter bar off. I heated up all of the joints with the MAP torch for a few minutes. Then, I managed to get the fitting closest to the wall to rotate up a bit and get the lighter bar off the bottom of the fireplace. Lastly, I heated up the log lighter fitting for a while and it finally broke free.

(I just had to cut both of my hands. Once the blood price was paid to the house, it yielded to my will.)

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
:bravo:

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

:hellyeah:

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Just had my first water near disaster. Replaced a fill valve on the toilet and when I reattached the bidet diverter I guess I didn't tighten it enough or somehow messed up the seal because 12 hours later I have a leak and flooding the bathroom. Luckily there were enough towels on the ground and bath mats to slow down the spread but it still ultimately got to the carpet in the bedroom and seeped along the baseboards some. Checked the water usage and it was only a few gallons total of waste and was quickly-ish cleaned up. I feel like a real life home owner now!

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Someone overloaded our (lovely, PO provided) washing machine with a huge duvet which specifically said to use a commercial machine on the care tag, sounded like someone was beating in a huge drum as it went through the spin cycle, and I’m guessing is what caused the washer to leak water all over the floor. After I pulled it out from the wall to mop the water and a lot of disgusting built up grime, I found this loose part underneath, a pin of sorts (unsure if this is actually from the washer, or just some other lost part). Also unsure what the next step is, I guess if this part is not likely from the washer, run another properly sized load and closely monitor for leaks?


slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

kreeningsons posted:

Someone overloaded our (lovely, PO provided) washing machine with a huge duvet which specifically said to use a commercial machine on the care tag, sounded like someone was beating in a huge drum as it went through the spin cycle, and I’m guessing is what caused the washer to leak water all over the floor. After I pulled it out from the wall to mop the water and a lot of disgusting built up grime, I found this loose part underneath, a pin of sorts (unsure if this is actually from the washer, or just some other lost part). Also unsure what the next step is, I guess if this part is not likely from the washer, run another properly sized load and closely monitor for leaks?


That looks like some sort of clevis pin and I agree, likely not part of your washer and just rolled underneath it at some time in the past.

But yes, I'd just maybe try a small/light load first and monitor for issues. Hopefully its fine.

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.

George H.W. oval office posted:

Just had my first water near disaster. Replaced a fill valve on the toilet and when I reattached the bidet diverter I guess I didn't tighten it enough or somehow messed up the seal because 12 hours later I have a leak and flooding the bathroom. Luckily there were enough towels on the ground and bath mats to slow down the spread but it still ultimately got to the carpet in the bedroom and seeped along the baseboards some. Checked the water usage and it was only a few gallons total of waste and was quickly-ish cleaned up. I feel like a real life home owner now!

Yep welcome to home ownership. Best to get yourself some water alarms (watchdog water alarm is a good cheap alarm) for whenever you do any plumbing related stuff or just in general for places where a leak would be extra bad or where you not might notice it right away. I always put a water alarm, a tray or bucket underneath with some paper towels, and check the connections for leaks regularly for at least 48 hours whenever I mess with plumbing stuff.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

George H.W. oval office posted:

Just had my first water near disaster.

Congrats on unlocking your new genre of nightmares! Have a good night’s sleep!

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

kreeningsons posted:

Congrats on unlocking your new genre of nightmares! Have a good night’s sleep!

The months after my window wells flooded so the actual glass was submerged... Sleepless nights 😩

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



MetaJew posted:

Update: I got the old log lighter bar off. I heated up all of the joints with the MAP torch for a few minutes. Then, I managed to get the fitting closest to the wall to rotate up a bit and get the lighter bar off the bottom of the fireplace. Lastly, I heated up the log lighter fitting for a while and it finally broke free.

(I just had to cut both of my hands. Once the blood price was paid to the house, it yielded to my will.)



Well done, sir!

In home as well as auto repair, there's always a blood price.

kreeningsons posted:

Someone overloaded our (lovely, PO provided) washing machine with a huge duvet ...
I found this loose part underneath, a pin of sorts (unsure if this is actually from the washer, or just some other lost part). Also unsure what the next step is, I guess if this part is not likely from the washer, run another properly sized load and closely monitor for leaks?



That's not from your Kenmore (GE).

That's actually a really well-made older washer that is relatively cheap to repair. Had a set of these - still have the dryer , the washer eventually blew its pump motor so we opted to replace it. Should have kept it.

Washer should be fine, run a load.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

PainterofCrap posted:

That's not from your Kenmore (GE).

That's actually a really well-made older washer that is relatively cheap to repair. Had a set of these - still have the dryer , the washer eventually blew its pump motor so we opted to replace it. Should have kept it.

Washer should be fine, run a load.

Funny, I was doing some research and came across washing machine enthusiast forums where this machine was called out as such. I guess I’ll revise my opinion. It has always sounded unbalanced as it spins though. Maybe something to look at.

I know this has been discussed here before, but I was also under the impression that top loading machines with an agitator are harder on clothes. Not sure if there is any truth to that.

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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

kreeningsons posted:

Funny, I was doing some research and came across washing machine enthusiast forums where this machine was called out as such. I guess I’ll revise my opinion. It has always sounded unbalanced as it spins though. Maybe something to look at.

I know this has been discussed here before, but I was also under the impression that top loading machines with an agitator are harder on clothes. Not sure if there is any truth to that.

I had that same pair of washer/dryer that I bought for $75 a while back (14 years ago) and they were amazing compared to the garbage we had now. Wish I still had them honestly.

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