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Does Creality "Hyper PLA" filament have different build plate considerations than regular PLA? I've been printing regular PLA on the Creality textured build plate perfectly fine, but I tried some of the hyper PLA and it stuck so well to the bed I couldn't get it off, and ended up ripping the sheet and ruining the plate. It was the same gcode file I've printed in regular PLA without a problem. I'm using a Creality K1 with the creality textured build plate and printing on the "A plate" side.
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Dec 10, 2023 18:34
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mrbass21 posted:From what I’ve read IPA just tends to spread the oil around. This is the only place I have ever heard this. It is used all over in industrial processes specifically to remove oils and other contaminants. Use 90%+ IPA. It is great at dissolving oils and greases without leaving residue. If somehow you're leaking fat onto your printer you might have a harder time. 70% evaporates too slow with too much water and is a relatively poor solvent.
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Dec 10, 2023 18:52
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It isn't specifically the alcohol, but how it is used. Alcohol does a perfectly fine job dissolving most oil and grease, yes. But then you have to remove the dissolved grease from the part. In industry, this is done by continuously flushing the part with the solvent, so the oil is put into solution and carried away (and then the solvent is generally filtered and recycled). If you just put some solvent on a cloth and wipe the part down, as most people do when "cleaning" their beds with alcohol, a bit of the grease will get picked up by the cloth, but mostly all you've done is redistribute it all over the surface. There will likely be some improvement but the surface won't be really clean. On the other hand, by washing the build plate with a detergent and plenty of water, you can actually flush the contaminants away. Here is a good video about cleaning things for real, like when you need to remove all traces of contaminants from your labware. Wiping down with alcohol on a cloth won't cut it then. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiL6uPNlqRw&t=305s (also every human leaks fat on everything they touch all the time, welcome to earth) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Dec 10, 2023 |
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Dec 10, 2023 19:26
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tater_salad posted:Run a new bed level and make sure you save it, Sv07 Edit: oh man. Top left corner was super high! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Dec 10, 2023 |
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Dec 10, 2023 20:27
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My results in reality have been no issues just wiping my PEI bed with 91% in between prints
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Dec 10, 2023 21:47
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Well if you don’t touch anything except the edges of your build plate there’s nothing to clean off besides some dust.
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Dec 10, 2023 21:54
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Yes. Please for the love of god stop touching the build area of your plates. A pair of nice blunt tipped bent tweezers work awesome for removing purge lines of every kind, and a scraper to pop off other stuff. The best way to avoid getting oils on build plates is to not put oils on them at all.
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Dec 10, 2023 22:13
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ilkhan posted:Thus the "not from the AMS". I read good! 
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Dec 10, 2023 22:20
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I mean I do generally avoid touching it because I know how that works - but even when I do get it greasy. Iso and a paper towel. Haven't bothered with soap on this plate yet.
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Dec 10, 2023 22:33
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Sagebrush posted:(also every human leaks fat on everything they touch all the time, welcome to earth) I'm sorry, I can't let this stand. It's called "sebum" and it's grosser than you described.
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Dec 10, 2023 22:40
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I like these plastic scrapers, they're especially handy if you need to stop a print for some reason within the first few layers and have a lot of little thin stuff to dislodge. Also good for getting smaller things off a resin build plate. https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Forwithout-Scratches-Adhesive-Stickers/dp/B09Y5WQFP4
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Dec 10, 2023 23:17
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oh hell yeah, I use those exact little blades, but in a real metal scraper handle because the included plastic one sucked
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Dec 10, 2023 23:32
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Oh God, I printed a handful of Beholders and now I'm getting the urge to get into miniature painting. help
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Dec 11, 2023 00:21
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mrbass21 posted:I would first try washing the bed in warm water and dish soap. From what I’ve read IPA just tends to spread the oil around. Alright, I washed the bed, lowered the speed to 50% and this is what happened:  The head managed to pick up the first outline and dragged it to the left. It has done that about 3 times now. I raised the head and checked underneath. It's completely clean. There's nothing I can see that's snagging filament as it passes over previous prints. Edit: drat it! I can't even print a Benchy now! The head keeps grabbing and dragging previous layers. Edit2: Ok I did Z calibrate again and got a Benchy to print. Let's try this star again... Edit2: this is the farthest I've ever got:  The corners are lifting! What should I do? Edit3: turning up the bed temp to the maximum that the filament allows for, 60 C, fixed the bed adhesion. Now I have bubbles:  I can hear the nozzle dragging over the bumps. I give up for tonight. I'll try again in the morning. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 03:45
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kid sinister posted:Alright, I washed the bed, lowered the speed to 50% and this is what happened: Your z looks to close to me as well. What temp are you printing your PLA at? So far the best settings I’ve used are 220 nozzle temp and 55 bed temp. Does it do this with other filament?
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Dec 11, 2023 05:49
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mrbass21 posted:Your z looks to close to me as well. What temp are you printing your PLA at? So far the best settings I’ve used are 220 nozzle temp and 55 bed temp. I'm at 215 nozzle and I usually use 50 for bed temp, but bumped it up to 60 for this print I have no idea if it does this with other filament. It's the first time I've tried to print something this big.
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Dec 11, 2023 06:02
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Work white elephant gift: complete!  16" slug printed in Inland sparkle purple PLA. Not bad for like $15 of filament and 4 days of printing. I was surprised to see that slugs this big are selling for like $100+ on Etsy.
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Dec 11, 2023 16:23
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smax posted:Work white elephant gift: complete! Looks good, need to buy myself more sparkle to filament for sure. given time/filament cost that's not crazy IMO
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Dec 11, 2023 17:50
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Hi thread. I'm new to this hobby, less than two months printing. I want help with mitigating the elephant's feet I get when I print PLA filament without a raft.  it's obviously swelling out at the top edge too. -Ender 3 pro that sat disused in its box for years, not sure what firmware etc. but probably old. -Store brand PLA filament from a local getting place - seems to print perfectly with the files that came pre-loaded on the SD card that came with the printer FWIW. -bed 60c -nozzle 210c (200c which was Cura's default gave me delamination issues with one of the colors I bought so I upped it, perhaps that was dumb and the problem was actually related to the X-drive belt being loose at the time which caused all sorts of ugliness) Apart from the hotter nozzle temps, all other settings on this print was Cura's default settings for "standard" quality for my printer. There are lots and lots of settings and I don't understand a bunch of them. I've had no problems with print bed adhesion at all. Anyways, I'm working on a second, hopefully better attempt at a complicated mechanical model with a bunch of herringbone gears, and these sideways swelling issues can't be good for friction, noise or anything else so I want to understand this problem and fix it as best I can before I get back to printing gears. Any help is appreciated.
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Dec 11, 2023 18:06
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smax posted:Work white elephant gift: complete! Dang, that looks baller. Really nice effect and great idea for a white whale gift exchange!
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Dec 11, 2023 18:55
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Invalido posted:Hi thread. I'm new to this hobby, less than two months printing. What happens if you lower the bed to 55?
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Dec 11, 2023 21:19
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mrbass21 posted:What happens if you lower the bed to 55? I dunno! I'll try that tomorrow, possibly even 50. IIRC the gcode files that came with the printer and came out beautiful were 200/50 so I should probably test that. The fact that I have swelling on the edges of flat surfaces higher up indicates some other problem too I think but lower temperatures is an easy place to start.
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Dec 11, 2023 21:44
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Invalido posted:Hi thread. I'm new to this hobby, less than two months printing. That's shrinkage/warping. Hourglass shape is the giveaway for it. Only the first layer or two would be elephant foot unless it is extremely bad. It actually looks like your first layer is tucked under the 2nd layer from the photo, is that the case? There's a few things you can try, easiest is just to increase infill which increases the layer time, allowing it to cool before piling on more hot plastic, and adds some rigidity between layers to resist the wall pulling in. You could also try slowing it down but keeping the same fan settings. Same as above you cool it more before the next layer goes down. You could be overextending which causes the solid top and bottom to squish out as well, similar to elephants foot but for a different reason. That's better solved through Ellis' print tuning guide than looking at real prints.
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Dec 11, 2023 21:48
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Can anyone help with my bubbling?
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Dec 11, 2023 23:09
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kid sinister posted:Can anyone help with my bubbling? Ultimately, your nozzle is just too close to the bed right now. Have you run through both the manual and auto bed level routines? You need to get the bed flat first, that's what the manual part helps with, and then let the automatic part do all the probulating for the bed mesh. ...And then you probably need to not completely trust that it's fully correct yet, and use the live Z adjustment at the start of a print to fully dial in the proper nozzle height, because none of these cheap Chinese printers ever really seem to get that part of the "automatic" bed leveling right. Unfortunately I don't have any direct experience with that specific printer, but I did find this Tom's Hardware guide that may or may not be helpful to you: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/sovol-sv07#:~:text=Leveling%20the%20Sovol%20SV07
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Dec 11, 2023 23:25
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kid sinister posted:Can anyone help with my bubbling? dry you are filament? Turn your monitor on
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Dec 11, 2023 23:25
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kid sinister posted:Can anyone help with my bubbling? You have a clogged or leaking nozzle/hot end. Replace the nozzle.
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Dec 11, 2023 23:32
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Is there a ~$200 printer that isn't a sketchy fire risk and is worth buying?
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Dec 11, 2023 23:32
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Acid Reflux posted:Ultimately, your nozzle is just too close to the bed right now. Have you run through both the manual and auto bed level routines? You need to get the bed flat first, that's what the manual part helps with, and then let the automatic part do all the probulating for the bed mesh. Yeah I did all of the bed leveling stuff. How do I adjust the nozzle distance properly then? The Sovol guide as well as that Tom's Hardware link said to use a sheet of paper and adjust until the nozzle just barely touches. I don't think it's humidity. I haven't been hearing the crackling sound when printing. Nerobro posted:You have a clogged or leaking nozzle/hot end. Replace the nozzle. How do I know when a nozzle needs replacing? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 23:36
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Setting up a Revo for one of my printers, and how should I be setting up profile for the various nozzles/etc in prusaslicer? I'm not exactly sure if I should be setting up a printer for each nozzle to handle the extruder config, and also a print profile for each nozzle/layer-height Things like extrusion width, max flow etc are really complicating things here
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Dec 11, 2023 23:39
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Nerobro posted:You have a clogged or leaking nozzle/hot end. Replace the nozzle. I replaced my nozzle with a spare. It's looking like this was it... Stay tuned. PS it was filthy under there!
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Dec 12, 2023 00:31
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Google Butt posted:Is there a ~$200 printer that isn't a sketchy fire risk and is worth buying? ender 3 et al kid sinister posted:How do I know when a nozzle needs replacing? What kind of nozzle and how much filament have you put through it? If you've been flogging a default brass 0.4 since you bought that printer in.. august? it could well be clapped out. No guarantee that's THE issue, though. (lateposting and I see you already did that) I do not use paper anymore. I have some gcode to move the nozzle directly over the 4 screws in order repeatedly, then I lower it until I can't see light between nozzle and bed anymore, then I back it off until the light crack juuust reappears. My adhesion remains sufficient.  If your bed is shaped like a pringle, this will not be effective, at which point it's up to you if you want to band-aid it with a bed mesh or replace the defective part
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Dec 12, 2023 00:41
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Javid posted:ender 3 et al Did they stop shipping models with the case completely blocking airflow into the power supply fan? e: looks like they did stop, although the new case holes need perfect alignment with the PSU housing in order for the holes to line up 
cruft fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 00:48
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Admittedly it's been a long time since I've had to buy a budget printer, but the Sovol SV06 has been the machine I've recommended to folks in that price range.
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Dec 12, 2023 00:52
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I've been selling some prints on Etsy recently and it's going well enough that I'm considering expanding to some degree. One of my main prints is almost 250g of filament. 10 walls, 10 top/bottom, etc. Ridiculously sturdy print without a huge chance of failure other than stress warping it off the bed. I can't decide of I should be printing ~3 at a time or one at a time. The chance of failure is fairly small, but IME it goes up whenever multiple parts are being printed, and when hundreds of grams of filament are on the line, that becomes kind of a hard choice for me. My current temptation is to pick up 2 Bambu A1 mini*'s, which will fit exactly one each, but it means for a $600 investment I can triple my output and keep printing one part at a time, with a lower chance of failure. * there are cheaper routes, but I can't think of any cheaper routes that have cameras, an app, and good first layers and are all inside a really easy ecosystem.
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Dec 12, 2023 00:55
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I saw an Elegoo that looked pretty nice, not sure what those cost. And I think Anker is making something now, but I have no idea if it's any good. I like their chargers and earbuds, though.
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Dec 12, 2023 00:56
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Google Butt posted:Is there a ~$200 printer that isn't a sketchy fire risk and is worth buying? Sovol SV06 Ender 3 V3 SE SPECIFICALLY Creality have a loving zoo’s worth of SKUs and they never seem to actually retire anything which makes it hard to know which Ender 3 is actually a good one.
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Dec 12, 2023 01:04
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Admittedly it's been a long time since I've had to buy a budget printer, but the Sovol SV06 has been the machine I've recommended to folks in that price range. Yeah it is the Sovol SV-06 or Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. They both go on sale for around $200 and are not playing Russian roulette for fire hazards. Absolutely avoid the Ender 3 V2 now that the Ender 3 V3 SE is out. V3 comes with ferrules on its wires and I have not heard about the power supply dying due to the holes not lining up(or like the one goon above encountered, not having vent holes at all). Edit: Looking at the options, I'd get the SV-06 since it comes stock with an all metal hotend, but that may or may not matter to you since it doesn't matter for PLA. $195 and free shipping direct from Sovol. https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-best-budget-3d-printer-for-beginner Bondematt fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 01:05
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Bondematt posted:Yeah it is the Sovol SV-06 or Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. They both go on sale for around $200 and are not playing Russian roulette for fire hazards. The Neptune 3 Pro uses the nozzle as a levelling sensor, which is pretty cool. The Sovol, Elegoo, and Creality all look like a nice step up from the E3v2 I got a few years ago. Things are advancing quickly, folks!
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Dec 12, 2023 01:21
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cruft posted:The Neptune 3 Pro uses the nozzle as a levelling sensor, which is pretty cool. And the most important step up out of all of them is the drat ferrules on the power leads.  Something that would cost them like an extra buck per printer when doing so at scale.
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Dec 12, 2023 01:25
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