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Are you building a new deck on old joists?
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Dec 19, 2023 14:44
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| # ? May 30, 2024 03:16 |
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I don’t know how much you need or how much you want to spend but you could totally just buy a spool of stainless steel cable and make your own fancy railing that way. I just looked it up and a 250ft spool at Lowe’s is 60 bucks.
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Dec 19, 2023 15:25
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McMaster carr also isn't cheap, but it will have all the clevis', wire strand, misc hardware you need to build your own.
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Dec 19, 2023 15:43
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KS posted:Are you building a new deck on old joists?
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Dec 19, 2023 19:41
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slidebite posted:As long as everything is sound, why wouldn't you?
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Dec 19, 2023 19:49
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KS posted:Are you building a new deck on old joists? Old joists. A contractor I’ve used said the foundations were solid, and I posted some pictures as I went in another thread and goons (oh god) said they looked fine. It’s all seemed good as I’ve been replacing.
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Dec 19, 2023 20:06
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PainterofCrap posted:Someone has already cut out a section of that ceiling between the recessed light & nearly to where you want to install a light. It looks like the joist run is left-to-right and the patch straddles the joists there. It’s popcorn ceiling everywhere and I can’t tell by the flashlight trick. So it looks like these are led lights. Kinda cool that there’s a switch on the back where I can select the different kelvin modes (warm, bright, daylight, etc) This house was built in ‘86-did led exist back then? Side note: on my house listing, it says renovated in 1996, but we have no idea what could have been redone. They drywalled a small section of the basement because the guy was a ham radio operator, but maybe these lights were some of the renovation? Makes no sense to me. Anyways, when I pull down the light, I’ve got a big metal box that i can’t seem to move. There’s no screws on it. Any ideas?   Edit: Looks like the light was from June 2021, a year before we moved in: 
nwin fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Dec 19, 2023 |
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Dec 19, 2023 20:52
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No, those are not from 86. Or 96. Those are bog standard retrofit LEDs in regular incandescent fixtures. The thing where the black and white wires goes to is literally a screw-in edison base like a lightbulb so that no requiring of the can had to be done to install the LED. The incandescent fixture/can is possibly from 96 if that was the last reno. But it absolutely had an incandescent bulb and another trim on it back then.
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Dec 19, 2023 20:57
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Motronic posted:No, those are not from 86. Or 96. Thanks-any idea how that can pops out so I can locate the joists? I’d rather stay away from brute force and ignorance on this one.
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Dec 19, 2023 21:00
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nwin posted:Thanks-any idea how that can pops out so I can locate the joists? I’d rather stay away from brute force and ignorance on this one. Can't see enough of it but if it's a new work can it will have to be disassembled from the inside. There are usually screws around the ring of the can and then you can pick it up with the cabling still connected to the electrical box attached to the base right next to it. And further disassembly/removal would need to be destructive. If it's an old work can it's clipped into the hole and should just push up into the ceiling.
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Dec 19, 2023 21:09
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nwin posted:This house was built in ‘86-did led exist back then? Yes - green, red, and amber. 
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Dec 19, 2023 21:44
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FizFashizzle posted:I’ve been browsing those cable railing setups and really like the look, but my god they’re expensive. Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Anything made of good quality stainless is never cheap either.
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Dec 20, 2023 02:33
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FizFashizzle posted:Redoing my lower deck. One thing we done in the past is use galvanized or black threaded pipe as the cross beams. The don't flex, are easy to work with, and if you add down light leds to the handrail--reflect and look great.
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Dec 20, 2023 09:15
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Invalid Validation posted:I don’t know how much you need or how much you want to spend but you could totally just buy a spool of stainless steel cable and make your own fancy railing that way. I just looked it up and a 250ft spool at Lowe’s is 60 bucks. If you do this you'll need crimpers, turnbuckles, eyehooks and something called 'boat wire' that doesn't rust, but yeah it looks great. I agree. Do this.
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Dec 20, 2023 14:23
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Does anybody have a recommendation for a granite sealer or cleaning agent?
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Dec 20, 2023 15:53
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Mustache Ride posted:Does anybody have a recommendation for a granite sealer or cleaning agent? What needs to be cleaned off of it? Sealer? I'd use Sealer's Choice Gold or Miracle 511. It won't change the look of the stone, and just do another coat once you notice water isnt beading up on the granite anymore. Note: Sealer's won't do poo poo to stop a chemical reaction, such as an acid burn from a ring of orange juice or wine left over night. They stop liquids from penetrating into the stone right away, but they don't make them stain proof, they just give you some time to wipe everything off.
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Dec 20, 2023 17:20
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I keep it clean and no stains, just looking for something on my nearly 1 year old granite to protect it more. Looks like theres some Miracle 511 at the orange box store nearby, thanks!
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Dec 20, 2023 20:21
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I decided to re-tile the little foyer we have at the front. The foyer is an extension to the house - some previous owners must have removed the face of the house and extended it by 6 feet. It doesn't look like the previous builders put down plywood underneath the tile - it looks like tile and cement on top of brick? maybe? (looking at the pink dust and the way it crumbles when I scrape it. Any tips on removing the tile? I'm guessing I need to take a jackhammer to it, I can't remove that tile by hand. Pics to show the tile layers   And a pic to show the layers in the bathroom (that is part of the same extension) after we removed the vanity 
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Dec 21, 2023 21:52
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Had to replace my bathroom exhaust fan/motor today. Got the new part, it's hard to tell whether it's spinning the 'right' way, it's a 120v 60Hz fan with the standard 2 prong connection, is it possible to plug this poo poo in backwards? I'm having a very hard time telling if it's sucking or blowing. I'll go turn on the shower and see what happens but I swear it spins the same way regardless of how I plug it in. Also the plug doesn't have a big/small prong, just two prongs the same size.
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Dec 21, 2023 22:00
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Take a peice of toilet paper and hold it up to the vent. Don't let go!
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Dec 21, 2023 22:07
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bobmarleysghost posted:Any tips on removing the tile? I'm guessing I need to take a jackhammer to it, I can't remove that tile by hand. It appears that they extended the house onto what was formerly a porch, perhaps a covered porch and then slapped flooring down right on the concrete that used to be there. I would go after that with a small demo hammer with a chisel blade. You should be able to rent one from home depot or whatever.
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Dec 21, 2023 22:10
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Motronic posted:It appears that they extended the house onto what was formerly a porch, perhaps a covered porch and then slapped flooring down right on the concrete that used to be there. Yea I think you could be right, they could have put down the tile right on top of a brick patio.  Motronic posted:I would go after that with a small demo hammer with a chisel blade. You should be able to rent one from home depot or whatever. What are the chances of loving up the brick underneath? The basement is right underneath, my assumption is that the brick is just a frame and they poured concrete on top of the basement, but it'll be hard to tell until i break through the tile in the middle.
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Dec 21, 2023 22:28
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bobmarleysghost posted:What are the chances of loving up the brick underneath? The basement is right underneath, my assumption is that the brick is just a frame and they poured concrete on top of the basement, but it'll be hard to tell until i break through the tile in the middle. If that's actually brick: pretty good depending on your technique. And even with the best of technique you may not have a choice. If there's basement under it surely there is a pre-stressed concrete or other slab under the brick. What does the "ceiling" of the basement look like under there? Also, is that area a separate "room" in the basement? We just had another goon talking about what sounded a whole lot like a midwest under-the-front-patio root cellar.
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Dec 21, 2023 22:33
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Motronic posted:If that's actually brick: pretty good depending on your technique. And even with the best of technique you may not have a choice. It's the basement bathroom underneath the foyer, so the ceiling is drywalled. I'm thinking it'd be safer to just re-tile right on top? I don't want to take a chance on destroying the ceiling/floor. Looking at the doors and frames there's a lot of clearance.
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Dec 21, 2023 22:36
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bobmarleysghost posted:It's the basement bathroom underneath the foyer, so the ceiling is drywalled. If that's an option I'd take it. It's not like that floor appears to be a structural issue. Just fill in the gaps and lay down some self leveler if necessary and go over the top.
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Dec 21, 2023 22:47
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Motronic posted:If that's an option I'd take it. It's not like that floor appears to be a structural issue. Just fill in the gaps and lay down some self leveler if necessary and go over the top. Will do, thanks for the help
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Dec 21, 2023 23:23
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VelociBacon posted:Had to replace my bathroom exhaust fan/motor today. Got the new part, it's hard to tell whether it's spinning the 'right' way, it's a 120v 60Hz fan with the standard 2 prong connection, is it possible to plug this poo poo in backwards? I'm having a very hard time telling if it's sucking or blowing. I'll go turn on the shower and see what happens but I swear it spins the same way regardless of how I plug it in. Also the plug doesn't have a big/small prong, just two prongs the same size. Rip a fat vape cloud in there bro.
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Dec 22, 2023 01:08
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Finally found a house I'm willing to make an offer on. Hooray, it's a new source of anxiety! (It's a 3-bedroom ranch house with a large, gently-sloped back yard, in a quiet neighborhood, within reasonable distance of family)
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Dec 22, 2023 03:10
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H110Hawk posted:Take a peice of toilet paper and hold it up to the vent. Don't let go! Oh my god of course, thanks. Yeah it's working.
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Dec 22, 2023 03:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Finally found a house I'm willing to make an offer on. Hooray, it's a new source of anxiety! Are you taking your workshop or building anew?
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Dec 22, 2023 20:08
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Are you taking your workshop or building anew? The thought of piling the entire workshop, concrete foundation and all, onto a truck and sending it across the country does have a certain appeal! ...but no, I will be looking into building a new shop instead. Assuming that the offer is accepted, of course, which is never a guarantee.
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Dec 22, 2023 21:53
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Checking for some potential big brain ideas. I'm drilling a pair of 8mm x 4cm holes (for wall plugs / anchors) in a very new, very tough concrete wall - I had to go and get a rotary hammer for the job, hammer drill didn't cut it (literally). Unfortunately I'm an idiot and misplaced one hole just enough that the stuff I want to install on it won't fit. But it's also close enough that I can't just drill another hole in the right place:  Black circle - hole I drilled; red circle - hole I need. If I can widen the hole that's fine, I can place the wall plug and fill up the space to the side, it just needs to hold up against gravity. Using the hammer drill on the correct position position doesn't work, it's too close and just slips inside the existing hole, even using the thinnest bit. Likewise when I tried filling the hole with some quick-dry filler paste - obviously the drill immediately smashed through it before hurting the existing hole. My current least-bad plan is to patiently widen it from inside with the hammer drill (which spins faster) set to drill-only mode - I expect this will take an hour or two and thoroughly ruin the bit, but I'm OK with that. I'm just not sure it will work at all. Can anyone think of a potentially less bad plan? Other than the obvious 'just put your stuff 3cm further to the left', which is my last resort as the horizontal space is actually quite precious.
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Dec 23, 2023 22:08
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What are you hanging? Any chance you can widen/slot the hole in that instead, or drill a new mounting hole in the same vicinity that doesn't overlap the misdrilled one? I had to do that once when hanging a TV mount in my old house. Got three of the four lag bolts in and then the last one snapped in the stud. It was just a flat plate of steel and would be hidden by the TV itself, so I just drilled another hole through the mount and wall an inch below the previous one.
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Dec 23, 2023 22:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:What are you hanging? Any chance you can widen/slot the hole in that instead, or drill a new mounting hole in the same vicinity that doesn't overlap the misdrilled one? It's a 150" projector screen (weighs about 20kg). Here's what the mounting bracket looks like, it's the key-shaped hole. Not much room for widening unfortunately:  The horizontal holes aren't for screwing to the ceiling, but for hanging it from chains, which is not something I'd like to do (it's going to shake).
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Dec 23, 2023 23:09
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As a start I'd cut a same sized hole in a 2x4 as a guide, have another person hold it tight against the wall with the hole where you need it, and drill. Possibly even screw the 2x4 into the wall so it won't move
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Dec 23, 2023 23:34
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DoubleT2172 posted:As a start I'd cut a same sized hole in a 2x4 as a guide, have another person hold it tight against the wall with the hole where you need it, and drill. Possibly even screw the 2x4 into the wall so it won't move Good idea. That might work - I doubt another person holding it would suffice (unless I recruit a strongman), but I could screw it into the wall in a couple of places where the extra hole won´t be seen anyway. Would need to be a tough piece of wood to avoid getting chewed out by the concrete drill.
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Dec 23, 2023 23:46
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To be clear I'd predrill the hole size I needed with a regular bit, line it up where you need the hole, and drill then. Not drill a hole in the 2x4 with the concrete bit
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Dec 24, 2023 00:35
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DoubleT2172 posted:As a start I'd cut a same sized hole in a 2x4 as a guide, have another person hold it tight against the wall with the hole where you need it, and drill. Possibly even screw the 2x4 into the wall so it won't move That’s clever. I run into this problem often enough I’ll have to keep it in mind.
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Dec 24, 2023 02:22
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It's not a quick solution but as a last resort you could fill the hole with very hard curing epoxy and then start fresh. If you do that I'd suggest drilling a small pilot hold to start with then using that to guide the tip of the larger diamater cocncrete bit.
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Dec 24, 2023 15:03
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| # ? May 30, 2024 03:16 |
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I have an Andersen 4000 series storm/security door on our back door. This is the style that has a single deadbolt if you turn the lock cylinder, and if you hold the lever up while turning the cylinder, there's 3 or 4 deadbolts that notch in along the length of the door. In the last few months the lock cylinder has become very hard to turn, and it seems that I cannot actuate the multi-deadbolt mechanism. The cylinder just sort of jams or will not turn fully. I've tried using both the interior knob, and with my key on the outside, so the issue must be somewhere in the lever mechanism or cylinder. Have any of y'all dealt with something like this?
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Dec 25, 2023 19:30
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