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mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

biracial bear for uncut posted:

As someone that recently started this: Don't.

The kinds of things I want to print come out just as well (if more slowly) on my FDM machines and I don't have to PPE up to play with them.

Once I use up the rest of my sample resin I'm going to pack the printer up, set the wash tank in the sun and let the alcohol evaporate, and put the whole mess away in the shed once it's safe to do so.

The FEP/PFA film hassle alone puts me off.

Printed three things and the 4th thing stuck to the film and can't be removed without possibly ripping the film, so the film needs replacing and I just don't want to deal with the hassle at this point.

My Prusas have spoiled me.

I started out wanting to print mins, and this would have been the way to get what I was looking for then and this is exactly the experience I imagined myself having.

That or being told I have cancer from the resin.

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HamburgerTownUSA
Aug 7, 2022
As someone that got my resin 3D printer setup going recently, I love the results I get from it.

There is definitely a way steeper curve to getting in to it though with making sure you have a proper work area and having proper workflow, and then resolving issues that come up. That was the part that took me the longest to get situated before I could really start printing.

I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 and haven't encountered anything frustrating enough that it makes me want to give up. My biggest hurdle was just dealing with a cold environment (my setup is in the garage where it gets very cold, especially when the door is cracked for ventilation) which was causing some print failures, but that was resolved by seeing what other people were doing, which in this case, was just getting a heating belt made for brew fermentation and wrapping it around the resin vat, and FDM printing a riser for the lid that would allow the power cord and a thermostat probe to pass through, and now everything is good.

Asides from that though, with the things I want to print, the detail I get from it I couldn't dream of getting from my Ender.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I will be getting a resin printer when I have a good place in my house to run one. At the moment there's really no good place for me to set one up, but the resolution is no comparison to even the best consumer grade FDM printers out there. If you put a lot of time in fussing with settings, you can get marginally passable results on FDM for some specific minis, but in general the results are pretty bad at best.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

mrbass21 posted:

That or being told I have cancer from the resin.

I'm a little less worried about that but my personal history is different (I had cancer in 2011 and the chemotherapy I went through to survive that basically guarantees I'll have even worse cancers and/or leukemia sometime after I hit 60, if I make it that long, and I'm 42 now).

My use cases just don't demand the promised level of detail and to me it isn't worth the hassle over good FDM results.


HamburgerTownUSA posted:

Asides from that though, with the things I want to print, the detail I get from it I couldn't dream of getting from my Ender.

I need to take some pics of things I made on my printers and post them.

HamburgerTownUSA
Aug 7, 2022
This was one of the first things I printed once I got my printer set up and a few tests run to make sure everything worked, and it's what convinced me that the hassle in getting it set up was worth it once I had the print in hand:

https://www.printables.com/model/305302-kyosho-mini-z-awd-rim-mercedes-prototype-version

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Tiny Timbs posted:

The whole thing is just pressed together with no non-printed pieces? Madness

First piece is done and looks so good. Can't wait.

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

The Eyes Have It posted:

Yeah that doesn't look like Bambu is aiming for an ability to load a different firmware in general going forward. This is a one off, looks like.

That was my interpretation too. A lot of pretty words to hide an otherwise mostly hostile reaction.

Honestly going closed source for 3D printing is a huge trap. It's very easy for a closed source system to screw you over, and you only have to look at 2D printers for an example of what it will look like - you'll have to use their filaments which will let them price gauge you hard. They won't do it until they've got most of the market share, but they will do it.

The open source stuff is already great and better than most other fields/hobbies with open source stuff. Don't let them take it from us!

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

biracial bear for uncut posted:

I'm a little less worried about that but my personal history is different (I had cancer in 2011 and the chemotherapy I went through to survive that basically guarantees I'll have even worse cancers and/or leukemia sometime after I hit 60, if I make it that long, and I'm 42 now).

:( I’m glad you’re still around. I’m rooting for you, goon buddy.

The approach I’m taking now is scaling up the minis to be large and splitting them in half for printing to see if I can make larger, paintable good quality models.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
Got a second X1C in December, did a quick 30 minute print to make sure it worked after setup, went on vacation.

Started my first long print on it (~5 hours) and got a clog about 3 hours in. Cleared the clog, did a bunch of cold pulls, now it clogs much earlier, like 45 minutes into printing. I'm printing with the door open and the cover off. When I unload the filament, there's a bite out of the filament where the extruder chewed through it.

This sounds like heat creep to me (I'm printing with Polyterra PLA using the stock settings in Orca Slicer, onto the textured PEI plate), but if there could be other culprits, I'm all ears.

1) What settings should I be playing with first to troubleshoot this?

2) Should I bother replacing the nozzle before I do anything else, in case there's still junk in there I couldn't remove with the wire tool and the cold pulls?

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



If something fails and sticks to the plate just run the full plate exposure and peel the thing off, literally takes 15 seconds. I haven't changed a fep on my 8 resin printers in like 1.5 months lol

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.
Oof, I just went to start a large job on my printers.. I normally load em up with grey eSun PLA+ when the colour doesn't matter, and keep a bunch on hand.

Turns out most of my last order was sent to me on cardboard spools instead of the normal plastic ones, making them unsuitable for the AMS :argh:

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Wrap em in election (electrical) tape

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jan 11, 2024

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

hark posted:

I still really love this printer.

Slow(er) speed and air. lots of air. Basically you can tell it to throw 100% fan on all layers, there really is no reason pla should not be cooled the second its laid on the next layer.

And crank that aux fan up. it will be loud AF, but you need the cooling. Orientation will matter too, you want the fan hitting the curve properly. This is how i saw the P1S can basically print over straight air and make 2 90 degree turns for the bottom surface of a handle that i forgot to support. And that being said long unsupported bridges are possible, but are SLOW (10mm/s) and can't hold much if you pile on plastic over no supports.

Being realistic, I would rather tune proper clean breaking supports, or better yet, doing the PETG support for PLA prints, or using some of that water soluable stuff if its really critical you have a clean surface. All of that before i have multiple hours in bridging for something i can support and sand

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Synthbuttrange posted:

Resin printers is more about dialing in the exposure timing, learning to maintain your print film, and not poisoning yourself by using nitrile gloves, respirators and goggles and having a ventilated workspace. I've been using my Photon S for 4 years now. The only major problems I have are the current firmware botching the first print ( so I made an empty cancelable print to run whenever its turned on for the first time), and whenever I use the Tough Anycubic resin which sticks like hell to my FEP sheet unless I wipe it down with ptfe first.

And occasionally accidentally splashing myself with resin and or cleaning alcohol.

-

Dealing with resin isnt bad as long as you have the space and knowledge basically. I can get by with just a large plastic tub to contain all my resin workspace next to my printer in a ventilated area, plus mask and gloves. Keeps all the splashing enclosed and I can just cover it when it's not in use.

-

In addition to having an extractor fan for resin fumes you can try out different resins too. One of the first resins i tried was anycubics default resin and that gave me a terrible headache on its own and made me move it to a smaller room with its own ventilation fan. Ive since been using their eco resin which is a very inoffensive smelling materiel and doesnt give me any problems at all.

Just a copy paste of stuff I've said about resin in the past. Its also a lot less work than maintaining a pre-2023 fdm printer.

gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)

Snackmar posted:

Oof, I just went to start a large job on my printers.. I normally load em up with grey eSun PLA+ when the colour doesn't matter, and keep a bunch on hand.

Turns out most of my last order was sent to me on cardboard spools instead of the normal plastic ones, making them unsuitable for the AMS :argh:
I recently bought a cardboard spool and had the same issue, but there are models for pieces that go around the rim of the cardboard that worked perfectly.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

As someone that recently started this: Don't.

The kinds of things I want to print come out just as well (if more slowly) on my FDM machines and I don't have to PPE up to play with them.

Once I use up the rest of my sample resin I'm going to pack the printer up, set the wash tank in the sun and let the alcohol evaporate, and put the whole mess away in the shed once it's safe to do so.

The FEP/PFA film hassle alone puts me off.

Printed three things and the 4th thing stuck to the film and can't be removed without possibly ripping the film, so the film needs replacing and I just don't want to deal with the hassle at this point.

My Prusas have spoiled me.
Thanks that is a pretty good sell. The Bambu has been so easy so far.

gvibes fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 11, 2024

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
We talked about sunlu as a good pla fillamment before, but is ali express really going to sell it to me for $11/kg? (5 rolls of a color bundle plus $20 shipping ) works out cheaper then from sunlu.com itself and arrives only a week later

I've ordered plenty from Ali, so any reason not to get a 5 pack of black and 5 of white for $110 to my door?

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

gvibes posted:

I recently bought a cardboard spool and had the same issue, but there are models for pieces that go around the rim of the cardboard that worked perfectly.

Yeah, I've had to use those on the PolyLite spools I've got in the one multi-AMS unit, and I've used a respooler a few times as well. Sometimes the spools still have issues due to lower weight etc. Often those are reliable options, but they're all less reliable than just getting a plastic spool to begin with, unfortunately

My beef is basically that I was buying a solution that I didn't have to think about, and now I have to think about it. :(

Heck, I would be happy to just buy Bambu filament in bulk at the membership price, but the Bambu store in Canada is constantly running out of materials and parts. Look at this nonsense:

Snackmar fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jan 11, 2024

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I have a resin printer and I like painting my Warhammer 40,000 models in significant detail. The detail comparison between a resin and FDM is just non-existent at that scale. Trying to paint something printed in filament to the standards I enjoy would just not ever be possible.

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

tater_salad posted:

Wrap em in election tape

Four more spools!

I’ll see myself out…

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

8-bit Miniboss posted:

Four more spools!

I’ll see myself out…

I actually laughed out at this. I described this joke to my girlfriend and she looked at me like I was an idiot.

A++ would laugh again

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
I had to put my resin printing stuff aside for more pressing matters, but dang I look forward to when I can get back into it. Can probably do better than the old Mars I have too.

Resin and Filament printers aren't really comparable. Different tools with different uses.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
My point earlier is that the "just works" workflow isn't there at the same price points that FDM equivalents are, yet.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I'm catching up on youtube channels I haven't checked in a while and Strange Parts got a tour of the Prusa manufacturing process that's pretty neat. It was released 11 days ago so I'm a bit behind, maybe it was in the thread already:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCIOOlT3KJI

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

Snackmar posted:

Oof, I just went to start a large job on my printers.. I normally load em up with grey eSun PLA+ when the colour doesn't matter, and keep a bunch on hand.

Turns out most of my last order was sent to me on cardboard spools instead of the normal plastic ones, making them unsuitable for the AMS :argh:

Yup. eSun is pivoting over to refills and cardboard now.
One store I order from has them on cardboard, the other only sells the refill version that's intended to go on their reusable spools.
It's a bit of an awkward position, but as mentioned you can go with printed rims too mitigate the issue.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Listerine posted:

Got a second X1C in December, did a quick 30 minute print to make sure it worked after setup, went on vacation.

Started my first long print on it (~5 hours) and got a clog about 3 hours in. Cleared the clog, did a bunch of cold pulls, now it clogs much earlier, like 45 minutes into printing. I'm printing with the door open and the cover off. When I unload the filament, there's a bite out of the filament where the extruder chewed through it.

This sounds like heat creep to me (I'm printing with Polyterra PLA using the stock settings in Orca Slicer, onto the textured PEI plate), but if there could be other culprits, I'm all ears.

1) What settings should I be playing with first to troubleshoot this?

2) Should I bother replacing the nozzle before I do anything else, in case there's still junk in there I couldn't remove with the wire tool and the cold pulls?

My brother was having similar issues with PLA and turns out he needed to dry his filament out. Of course he keeps all his stuff in his garage, in florida, where it's like 100% humidity all day everyday so that's not helping him. He dried out one roll that was giving him a lot of issues and after letting it sit in his filament dryer he bought for like 4 hours it prints perfectly now.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


8-bit Miniboss posted:

Four more spools!

I’ll see myself out…

Lol.. nice.. autocorrect won the popular vote I guess.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

mattfl posted:

My brother was having similar issues with PLA and turns out he needed to dry his filament out. Of course he keeps all his stuff in his garage, in florida, where it's like 100% humidity all day everyday so that's not helping him. He dried out one roll that was giving him a lot of issues and after letting it sit in his filament dryer he bought for like 4 hours it prints perfectly now.

If I make a dryer, is there generally a timeframe for how long the benefits of that last before I need to dry it again? Is that a thing? I'm assuming it depends on the humidity of the area in which I'm printing but I figured I'd ask anyway.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

hark posted:

If I make a dryer, is there generally a timeframe for how long the benefits of that last before I need to dry it again? Is that a thing? I'm assuming it depends on the humidity of the area in which I'm printing but I figured I'd ask anyway.

I wouldn't make one, they are fairly cheap to buy on amazon. I think my brother paid like $35 for the one he got.

I told him, anytime he starts having clogging issues after printing for a while, dry dry dry lol

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
I got the Sovol 2-spool dryer for $38 and it delivers what it promises without any fuss. Unless you've already got a dehydrator sitting around that you don't use, it's probably less hassle overall to buy one.

Getting a dryer with a port that lets you pass filament through it and print directly from the dryer is especially nice if you're dealing with anything very hygroscopic or it's a particularly humid day out

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Get a dryer that can do 70C is the only comment I have. The sunlu v2 can do it but the pass through is in a bad spot (the v1 is awesome but can only do 50C). I ended up getting a cyclops clone I print off of. Make sure it has heating, some they advertise as dryboxes are just hygrometers with regenerative silica packs, which are only decent for printing out of (my environment overwhelms the silica in a day or two).

Eibos makes what are considered the best "affordable" filament dryers (expensive, but not professional $1500+ dryer prices). The Cyclopes and Polyphemus. I don't know about their single spool dryer but I expect it's quality.

Also: make sure that the dryer isn't sealed completely, humidity has to get out somehow, I have to prop the sunlu v2 open a bit (there are also STLs for this, but I use a metal hook hanging off it to prevent it from closing completely.

deimos fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Jan 11, 2024

gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


If I’m in a non-humid climate, is silica enough to dry it out? Or do I need to heat it up? I presume it is probably filament specific too, but I figured to ask here before buying something wrong. Like, for example, I was about to get the v2 above but that post made me reconsider it.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


deimos posted:

Get a dryer that can do 70C is the only comment I have. The sunlu v2 can do it but the pass through is in a bad spot (the v1 is awesome but can only do 50C). I ended up getting a cyclops clone I print off of. Make sure it has heating, some they advertise as dryboxes are just hygrometers with regenerative silica packs, which are only decent for printing out of (my environment overwhelms the silica in a day or two).

Eibos makes what are considered the best "affordable" filament dryers (expensive, but not professional $1500+ dryer prices). The Cyclopes and Polyphemus. I don't know about their single spool dryer but I expect it's quality.

Also: make sure that the dryer isn't sealed completely, humidity has to get out somehow, I have to prop the sunlu v2 open a bit (there are also STLs for this, but I use a metal hook hanging off it to prevent it from closing completely.



I do the same with my sunlu.. I usually cook the filament for awhile and then just prop it open with an Allen key from my workbench to let the wet out.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

gbut posted:

If I’m in a non-humid climate, is silica enough to dry it out? Or do I need to heat it up? I presume it is probably filament specific too, but I figured to ask here before buying something wrong. Like, for example, I was about to get the v2 above but that post made me reconsider it.

Silica doesn't dry poo poo. It'll suck moisture out of the air and maintain a dry environment but it won't pull anything out of filament.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I was gifted a partial roll of old moist PLA in a color I didn't have and only wanted to print a few parts with. I just used the printer's heated bed and some alumium foil over night as a makeshift drier. It reduced the weight of the spool by a few grams, made it print OK.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

biracial bear for uncut posted:

I'm a little less worried about that but my personal history is different ([spoiler]

Raw deal, man. Sucks hard. Glad you're still around.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004


I was no-poo poo worried that something might have happened to you, it's been an awful long time since we've seen you around. Happy to see you're still kickin'. :)

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Acid Reflux posted:

I was no-poo poo worried that something might have happened to you, it's been an awful long time since we've seen you around. Happy to see you're still kickin'. :)

Had some snowball health issues that culminated in a coma back around Easter and spent the remainder of last year re-learning basic poo poo (like literally relearning how to chew food, etc.), just now got to where I can enjoy hobbies again.

I have got a backlog of silly printed things to share pictures of though.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

:eek: drat man, I'm really glad you're still kickin'. Sorry to hear you had to go through all that.

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Had some snowball health issues that culminated in a coma back around Easter and spent the remainder of last year re-learning basic poo poo (like literally relearning how to chew food, etc.), just now got to where I can enjoy hobbies again.

I have got a backlog of silly printed things to share pictures of though.

How the gently caress was it August ‘22 when you had to print the chill pills?! It feels like you were arguing with people ITT much more recently than that. It’s scary how time flies the older you get.

Sorry to hear about last year’s health adventure, that sounds super rough. And I hope you beat the odds on the other stuff too. gently caress cancer.

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queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m





finally figuring out Keyshot for doing renders, can bang out renders of minis super fast now, i like the unified look, plus I think it'll look nice when i port this all over to a website

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