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Cosmik Debris posted:You can certainly try to replace a single resistor but imo if you value your time even a little bit, buy a 30 dollar thermostat at Lowe's and move on. Speaking as a professional with domain experience: I agree with this Also you're almost certainly measuring the megaohm resistor wrong
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Jan 10, 2024 19:59
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Cosmik Debris posted:You can certainly try to replace a single resistor but imo if you value your time even a little bit, buy a 30 dollar thermostat at Lowe's and move on. ante posted:Speaking as a professional with domain experience: I agree with this Thanks for the feedback, the replacement part is $82 though, plus shipping I assume since it's not a standard part. Not a ton of money or anything, I just also want to play with this object and maybe customize it at some point. I'm in no hurry, the heater doesn't seem to be that necessary.
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Jan 10, 2024 20:18
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ante posted:Specifically the projector screen. I think I have a convenient pipe to clamp on for the projector itself. Sorry, yeah just missed the word screen there for some reason. That said, I think the answer is basically similar. I personally do not like trying to do real accurate spot stuff into concrete, so I would probably look to attach a substrate to the ceiling that I could have an easier tome working with. It sounds like you tried to use a sleeve and it slipped out an now you have a hole likely in place you need to use, so a possible solution would be cut a strip of 3/4 ply an appropriate length, affix the screen to that, and then use the larger surface area of the wood to give yourself multiple attachment points into the concrete. edit: Assuming the screen is going in front of a wall, then another possible path is to hang it off the wall. if the housing is not built to be attached to a vertical surface, you could build a small right angle projection, that attaches the wall studs but provides a suitable ridge you could hang the screen from. emocrat fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 20:44
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ante posted:Specifically the projector screen. I think I have a convenient pipe to clamp on for the projector itself. Slap a 2x4 on that ceiling and mount the projector to that. Or however deep you need it. You only need it at the attachment points but I would be generous with how much extra space you put. Gotta have room for the anchors plus moving around your hooks. tuyop posted:It doesn't display anything on the thermostat LCD or generate heat. I have another one. Got a make and model? Have you metered the inputs and outputs from the unit itself to that thermostat? For example, are you sure this thing is getting the power it needs out of the wall? You say you have a second one - what happens if you swap em? Do their boards look identical? What's with that big crack looking bit in the upper-left trail-o-solder? H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 20:58
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It's probably isn't the right thread for this but I'm hoping somebody can offer advice, I want to throw some kind of little tracker in the bottom of my tool bag just in case, I want something really low maintenance and basic with a really long battery life. What's my best bet here,? I have an Android phone if that matters at all, I know the air tags are pretty popular but I don't know if they need an Apple phone to work
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Jan 10, 2024 20:59
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Opopanax posted:It's probably isn't the right thread for this but I'm hoping somebody can offer advice, I want to throw some kind of little tracker in the bottom of my tool bag just in case, I want something really low maintenance and basic with a really long battery life. What's my best bet here,? I have an Android phone if that matters at all, I know the air tags are pretty popular but I don't know if they need an Apple phone to work Airtags require an apple device to work - but really anyone in your family who uses one could enroll it. I don't think there are any others which offer you the global surveillance network that airtags do however. (All apple devices report any airtags they "hear" along with the GPS location.) I don't believe Tile or Samsung trackers do that, but I'm unclear on the latter.
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Jan 10, 2024 21:05
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tuyop posted:
It doesnt matter but the "spill" there is probably just solder flux. Those were probably hand soldered and a ton of flux was left behind. Maybe it could have been machine soldered but definitely a different process than the rest of the board, since there's so much thermal mass there. I think the manufacturer used thin copper layers and then beefed up the circuit traces there with that huge solder blob in order to lower resistance.
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Jan 10, 2024 21:25
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H110Hawk posted:Slap a 2x4 on that ceiling and mount the projector to that. Or however deep you need it. You only need it at the attachment points but I would be generous with how much extra space you put. Gotta have room for the anchors plus moving around your hooks. Oh yeah I did the swapping around and troubleshooting before calling the manufacturer and they agreed that it’s almost certainly the thermostat. Do you mean this bit here?  Those two blobs of solder don’t seem to have any issues despite the grossness, the components along the whole blob have continuity. Pulling the other one is a great idea and I’ll check that out next.
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Jan 10, 2024 21:25
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I think the "crack" in the solder is a sign of rework--they might have reworked the board to remove that unpopulated 3 lead component for some reason (maybe a trimpot?). it looks like they may have scored the solder before reworking to partially thermally isolate the end bit and make the rework possible (without having to reflow the entire solder blob)
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Jan 10, 2024 21:30
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emocrat posted:Sorry, yeah just missed the word screen there for some reason. That said, I think the answer is basically similar. I personally do not like trying to do real accurate spot stuff into concrete, so I would probably look to attach a substrate to the ceiling that I could have an easier tome working with. It sounds like you tried to use a sleeve and it slipped out an now you have a hole likely in place you need to use, so a possible solution would be cut a strip of 3/4 ply an appropriate length, affix the screen to that, and then use the larger surface area of the wood to give yourself multiple attachment points into the concrete. Okay but like, what attachment point? Specific tools or materials? I'd also rather not drill into my upstairs neighbor's place, but I don't know how likely that is The measurements aren't super critical - I have a couple inches of wiggle room for the screen's loops, and I can just move it into a slightly different location if necessary. It is in front of a full length window though, so no easy wall mounting solutions. Sorry if this post is coming off as obtuse, but home-improvement-google is now entirely AI generated articles, the future is wonderful
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Jan 10, 2024 22:15
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tuyop posted:Oh yeah I did the swapping around and troubleshooting before calling the manufacturer and they agreed that it’s almost certainly the thermostat. The fact that you have a working unit makes troubleshooting a lot more possible. You could try using your multimeter to check voltages at various points and see where they differ. Gonna say though, the issue is probably under that black blob and not recoverable. There isn't anything else obviously fried
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Jan 10, 2024 22:18
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tuyop posted:Thanks for the feedback, the replacement part is $82 though, plus shipping I assume since it's not a standard part. Not a ton of money or anything, I just also want to play with this object and maybe customize it at some point. I'm in no hurry, the heater doesn't seem to be that necessary. Why do you need to pay 82 dollars for a thermostat, exactly? Simple programmable thermostats at Lowe's are 29.99.
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Jan 10, 2024 22:39
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Cosmik Debris posted:Why do you need to pay 82 dollars for a thermostat, exactly? Simple programmable thermostats at Lowe's are 29.99. That is a integral custom control module for that heater. I assume. Still no make/model.
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Jan 10, 2024 23:37
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has anyone confirmed that's actually the case? Almost all HVAC systems are controlled with simple thermostats - even fancy variable speed ones. I'm prepared to be wrong but this seems like a lot of work on something that is very likely to be a simple thermostat. If it isn't a simple thermostat, one could almost certainly probe the working one and reverse engineer the signaling protocol - which, imo, is easier than trying to diagnose what's wrong with one.
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Jan 11, 2024 00:01
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Flooding in my hometown this week, thankfully I only had a trickle seeping through between the cinderblock wall and basement floor for 5 or 6 hours. I have a 16 gallon shop vac and conservatively estimate that I removed over a ton of water. A literal ton 133 pounds at a time. I cut an inspection hole in the drywall across 3 of the “studs” (furring strips) where the water was coming in and there isn’t any damage to the mortar or blocks that I can see, it was just coming through. There isn’t any waterproofing that I can see, it’s bare cinderblock. I’m assuming an epoxy product would be the easiest work to seal this up vs hydraulic cement or some other word I don’t know yet? If I’m going to rip out that much drywall to apply a product, I don’t want to have to do it again.
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Jan 11, 2024 14:39
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ante posted:Okay but like, what attachment point? Specific tools or materials? All good. So, I was focusing on the projector / screen part but the question is really, How do I work with concrete. I'm not an expert, and possibly others will chime in with better advice but I have done some of this and I will give you my thoughts. There are basically 2 paths you take when you need to attached something (anything) to cured concrete. You can use an adhesive (liquid nails, loctite, etc) or you can use a mechanical fastener (screws, anchors, nails). Or you can use both. Any form of mechanical fastener will require drilling an appropriate width and depth hole. Knowing the thickness of the ceiling would help with your concern about your upstairs neighbor, but given the low weight you need to support you should be able to use a smaller fastener and be pretty confident about it. The simplest way would probably be to use a high strength construction adhesive that is designed to bond wood and concrete, certainly there are products that market themselves for this purpose and 40lbs is a pretty small load, especially for something that you would reasonably expect will never get hauled on hard or have anyone do a pullup from. Personally, I don't really trust adhesives like this, not from any experience just personal bias, and I always use a mechanical fastener if possible. The success of this method would be affected by the concrete surface. is it smooth and polished? Rough? Sealed? Painted? For mechanical fasteners into cured concrete you have 3 basic options: masonry nails, masonry screws, and anchors. Masonry nails are not going to be appropriate for your application, so you are looking at screws or anchors. Both require pre drilling a hole, generally using a hammer drill. Masonry screws are pretty simple, once you have the hole you just screw them in and they are designed to grab into the concrete. They are used a lot and as far as I have seen work well, although I personally have had mixed success. They can be finicky to drive all the way in and if they don't grab just right you may have to start a new pilot hole. The biggest name brand is Tapcon and you buy them in a huge variety of lengths and thicknesses at any hardware/big box store. use as the package instructs, you can also go to youtube to find videos explaining the use and installation. Anchors it seems like you tried and had issues with, but are a very appropriate connection method. You can use heavy duty wedge anchors that can hold huge weight, or given your specific application you can probably get away with using deformable plastic insert anchors. They work by inserting a sleaved screw into the pre drilled hole, and then as they are tightened/screwed into the sleeve deforms, and compresses into the hole wedging the assembly in place. If you your anchor fell out then either the hole was too large, or wedge wasn't tightened enough to fully deform the sleave. LowesDepot will have dozens of different sizes and forms of these anchors, and you can select based on wanting something that doesn't require a deep hole as well what amount weight the anchor is rated for. Given that your screen is only 40lbs, and you can use multiple anchors, you should probably be ok using pretty light weight rated ones. As above youtube can be an excellent source for actually watching someone install this kind of thing and seeing how they do it.
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Jan 11, 2024 15:02
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Thanks everyone for all the help!Cosmik Debris posted:Why do you need to pay 82 dollars for a thermostat, exactly? Simple programmable thermostats at Lowe's are 29.99. H110Hawk posted:That is a integral custom control module for that heater. I assume. Still no make/model. It’s this, the part is the little thing on top of the heater where I select the temperature.  And the product info from inside the heater.  I believe it’s one of their “convectors”. https://www.ouellet.com/en-ca/products/onc-en.aspx?cat=/Produits/Produits-RESIDENTIELS/Convecteurs Product sheet: https://www.ouellet.com/ouellet.com/files/be/be75beac-c736-4fbd-9d58-fcb2a72c84c3.pdf It sounds like it might be possible to remove the integrated thermostats altogether and have the heaters controlled by a separate thermostat. I would love that since it’s a bit stupid to have both independently controlled. But what’s involved in that?
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Jan 11, 2024 15:06
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quote:Single-pole electronic relay, coil 24V yeah dude that's a dead basic heater. on/off, nothing crazy. the thermostat is nothing more than a switch. it closes a contact when it gets below the temperature setpoint, otherwise it's open. as for what's involved to swap it out with a thermostat, there's only two wires that actually do anything in there (typically red and white for heat in the US, not sure about what looks like canada). you short them together and the thing should come on. Sometimes there's a common wire (typically blue/black) that provides a ground reference for the 24V (not sure if red or white is 24 v, either way a volt meter should tell you). The C wire as its called provides a circuit for powering thermostats. If you don't have a C wire, then your thermostat runs on batteries, as the red/write circuit is just a switch leg. congrats, you're now a certified hvac tech. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 15:18
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Cosmik Debris posted:yeah dude that's a dead basic heater. on/off, nothing crazy. the thermostat is nothing more than a switch. it closes a contact when it gets below the temperature setpoint, otherwise it's open. Thanks! Sounds potentially promising. It does have four wires, two red and two black. Here’s a shot with the labels from the controller thingy.  And here are the components in the heater body. The power comes in through a special plug in the middle of the box where I’ve labeled everything. I don’t know what that puck with the copper wire coming out is.  How would I control this from a box on the wall though? There’s no C wire but I assume I would just splice the red-red and black-black to run the heater all the time. Are there relays that hook up to thermostats for this kind of thing and then I run a wire to each heater’s relay?
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Jan 11, 2024 15:41
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If I wanted to add a room to my house, who do I go to to start? If it’s just a box can a general contractor do it or do I need to hit up an architect first? And what order of magnitude do I need to expect to spend, middle five figures?
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Jan 11, 2024 16:14
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dupersaurus posted:If I wanted to add a room to my house, who do I go to to start? If it’s just a box can a general contractor do it or do I need to hit up an architect first? And what order of magnitude do I need to expect to spend, middle five figures? A GC in your area might be familiar with if this is even possible from a zoning/permitting standpoint. How much it costs depends on too many factors (location, construction type, size, what it's getting tied into, site access, potential need to upsize HVAC/other utilities) to even venture a guess without lots of information.
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Jan 11, 2024 16:27
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Motronic posted:A GC in your area might be familiar with if this is even possible from a zoning/permitting standpoint. How much it costs depends on too many factors (location, construction type, size, what it's getting tied into, site access, potential need to upsize HVAC/other utilities) to even venture a guess without lots of information. The foundation alone is going to be a total wildcard for cost. Where you live and the land you're building on could make it straightforward or horrendously complicated and expensive.
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Jan 11, 2024 16:41
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dupersaurus posted:If I wanted to add a room to my house, who do I go to to start? If it’s just a box can a general contractor do it or do I need to hit up an architect first? And what order of magnitude do I need to expect to spend, middle five figures? Construction costs are still waaay up from 3 years ago and don't show much sign of coming down. I just asked a contractor buddy yesterday basically the same question but for 1 bed/1ba primary suite addition I've been thinking about and he said figure on $225-250/square foot. Just an empty room may be cheaper because bathrooms are more expensive, but it's definitely not a $150/sq. ft. for decent construction world anymore. I'm in the SE in a relatively low cost of living area, but he's also a good contractor that does quality work so YMMV. My fancy architect friend who does high-end houses says he's telling his clients to plan for $300-400/sq./ft for new high end construction. How easy/hard it is to tie into existing rooflines can impact cost quite a bit, as can all the un-expected 'oh you're breaker is out of room for another circuit and you only have 60A service, you need to upgrade to a 200A main panel' kind of stuff that inevitably pops up in anything involving old work. e: disregard any numbers you might get from 'national new construction cost averages' because there are a whole fuckton of shoddy tract houses being thrown up that really gently caress with that statistic. But even for that it looks like the bottom of the barrel is pretty much $150/ft, up from like $100/ft pre-pandemic. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 16:43
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tuyop posted:Thanks! Sounds potentially promising. It does have four wires, two red and two black. Here’s a shot with the labels from the controller thingy. ok, so, I'm having kind of a hard time making out what's going on in your pictures. so I'll just give you some general information and you can probably figure it out from there. I'm not trying to talk down to you, because it sounds like you know some stuff about electronics, but I just want to make sure you have all the information, so forgive me if I tell you something you already know. simple electric heaters like that are just resistors. when the (big, thick wire) circuit is complete, they are on. when the circuit is broken, they are off. So how do you control them? you break the circuit. almost always with a cheap, ubiquitous relay. The spec sheet you posted confirmed it is a standard 24v relay. Relays have two sides - a "coil" side, and a "contact" side. Because in reality, relays are two devices - an electromagnet and reed switch. When you energize the electromagnet (the coil), it creates a magnetic field which pulls the metallic reeds witch closed (the contacts) and completes a circuit on the other side. The contacts can be sized to handle far larger currents than the coil can, thus a very small current can switch a very large current. Since a heater needs both a transformer to create 24V (to send to the thermostat - thermostats contain switches and almost never generate their own switching voltage), and a relay to switch the heater current, and I only see one device in your heater, I am assuming that the puck is a combination 24V transformer and relay. And while I can't find one that looks like that, here is a very similar device that is used for the same purpose. A "thermostat", as they are called, is a device which controls something based on temperature. How they are designed is up to the manufacturer, but generally they are simple temperature sensor ICs, LCD displays and associated driving circuitry, and bistable relays. Bistable relays are like normal relays, except instead of holding the contacts closed when the coil is energized, they simply pulse an electromagnet which causes a switch to flip and stay put - much like a light switch. then another pulse causes it to unflip. this saves power. They're also really lovely and get stuck or break. So sometimes you can smack a thermostat real good and fix it. I had to take mine off the wall at my old place and whack it real good at the beginning of heating season every year. So, all that is to say, whatever you want to control your heater with is up to you. you can hook it up to a light switch if you want. you can short the coil together and leave it on all the time (dont' do that). Figure out which of those wire pairs is the coil pair and short them together. your heater should come on. Then go buy a cheapo thermostat and hang it on your wall and hook it up according to the manual. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 18:37
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Cosmik Debris posted:ok, so, I'm having kind of a hard time making out what's going on in your pictures. Thanks, that's all very helpful. It does sound like setting up a single external thermostat for these guys will involve some cutting of walls and running of wires to power the thermostat and control the relays. I do see some wireless relays though. Something like this sounds reputable and possibly what I need. However, this little project to save $82 is now looking like a $300 project involving cutting some drywall and wiring a thermostat so maybe I should think on my goals a bit here...
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Jan 11, 2024 19:27
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Hey I'm not going to get too point by point here but Cosmik Debris please be a little careful. You seem to have a reasonable understanding of common transformer driven low voltage thermostat systems, and that's fine, but I'm 99% sure that's not what is in play here. I realize I'm just a guy on the internet but I have designed controls for residential HVAC systems. There are control systems used for low cost heaters that don't use 24V control. From what I can tell, this built-in thermostat is just switching line voltage using a triac (TR1), the device that Tuyop unsoldered that's still in the plastic housing. The device you've identified as a "combination transformer and relay" is actually a high limit temp safety device. When the copper wire passes enough heat into the metal disc, it will snap an internal switch open and then remake the contact when it cools. Also, based on the spec sheets for the heater unit, most of the thermostats for this unit are line voltage, unless you purchase the accessory kit that doesn't appear to be installed on this unit. Assuming power is getting to the board, odds are something in the stepdown power supply for the micro or the micro itself (under the big glob) have failed. But hard telling from here and without a bunch of troubleshooting. So if you want to figure out how to potentially replace this with something else, start looking at line voltage thermostats. Basically, Tuyop please don't burn your basil down.
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Jan 11, 2024 19:35
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wallaka posted:Flooding in my hometown this week, thankfully I only had a trickle seeping through between the cinderblock wall and basement floor for 5 or 6 hours. I have a 16 gallon shop vac and conservatively estimate that I removed over a ton of water. A literal ton 133 pounds at a time. You can't realistically waterproof your walls/foundation. Water is too persistent and powerful. If you want your basement to not flood, you need a French drain that can collect the water at the perimeter of the foundation, and allow it to flow to somewhere with a lower altitude. In other words, don't try to make your house into a boat, but move the ocean instead.
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Jan 11, 2024 19:35
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TacoHavoc posted:Hey I'm not going to get too point by point here but Cosmik Debris please be a little careful. You seem to have a reasonable understanding of common transformer driven low voltage thermostat systems, and that's fine, but I'm 99% sure that's not what is in play here. I realize I'm just a guy on the internet but I have designed controls for residential HVAC systems. those are fair points, and in any case confirm the voltage at the unit with a voltmeter. that will answer the question. I have never come across line voltage thermostats in all my years. regardless, the theory should be the same. there is still a relay somewhere switching the unit. Unless there's not, apparently full amperage thermostats do exist. Which is crazy to me, but I guess its for if the thermostat is a few feet from the heater. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 19:53
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 This does not look like there is any easy way to safely control this with a commodity thermostat. The label you posted earlier says this is a -TH model, and none of the wiring shown looks like it would be appropriate for 24V low-current. That all looks like it's sized for mains voltage and full load current, and in the photos posted earlier the longer descriptions of the four connections on the thermostat are shown as line 1, line 2, load 1, and load 2.
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Jan 11, 2024 20:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Wow, that’s really impressive attention to detail. Thank you! Back to fixing or replacing this control module it is! Speaking of, they did give me the model number of the control module on the phone. Totally slipped my mind. It’s this. https://www.inventex.com/1194-part-electronic-thermostat-mod-oce.html?page=4 With more info here https://www.guillevin.com/product/thermostat-replacement-kit-oce-white-oue-ocebmh-th-dbl quote:
Ooo maybe I want that OTH.  drat they only have the DAM model  Edit: There is this thing, https://www.guillevin.com/product/thermostat-non-progr-2000-3465-4000w-120-208-240v-white-oue-oth4000-a which sounds an awful lot from the installation manual like a device I would wire the heaters into directly after shorting the old thermostat wires (I don’t want to do this, just thinking). It could even run both, apparently. But it’s dumb, no timer even, and I’d have to reroute the wires from both heaters to wherever the thermostat ends up. tuyop fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 22:08
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emocrat posted:All good. So, I was focusing on the projector / screen part but the question is really, How do I work with concrete. I'm not an expert, and possibly others will chime in with better advice but I have done some of this and I will give you my thoughts. This is a really helpful overview, thank you. I did just borrow a hammerdrill, which makes a world of difference over my crappy no-name cordless drill I was using before. So, specifically, I tried to use these guys   But probably my hole was too large, and it deformed like this and just sort of fell out  I can't see how that would deform in a way that would really have a lot of holding power, unless my gut feel is totally off. Just feels kinda lovely and useless. I chose these anchors specifically because of the low embedment requirement - Very worried about drilling too far and having an awkward conversation with my upstairs neighbour. Anyway, holes are a lot easier now with the hammerdrill, I'm going to try again with a smaller bit and really hammer the anchor in there because it doesn't want to go. And maybe mix up some epoxy to shove in there for good measure.
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Jan 11, 2024 22:40
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Yeah go get some two part epoxy that is used to bond rebar into drilled holes in mass concrete and that projector will stay up there through the apocalypse.
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Jan 11, 2024 22:43
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ante posted:This is a really helpful overview, thank you. It does seem not to have deformed correctly, the wider head should have expanded the sleeve out and compressed the crumple zone area forming a block. I would agree with trying a smaller diameter hole and really knocking it in tightly. Using Epoxy can work fine, just keep in mind that if you get epoxy in there and it cures, your are committed. You cannot clean it out or move it at all. If it isn't in the right place your recourse is going to be cutting the head off the bolt and starting over elsewhere. Also, since your working in the ceiling you will be fighting gravity, id suggest something like painters tape to help it in place and prevent drips while it cures. Epoxy may be the solution for you, but it is much more permanent and harder to cover up if you ever change your mind.
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Jan 11, 2024 23:16
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devicenull posted:Update: Roofers came, found multiple layers of shingles in some parts of the roof (this house has had a few additions over the years, and I think they didn't remove old shingles...) and about 20 sheets of decayed plywood. They also gave us the option of sistering some rafters which were making the roof wavy. We took them up on that because I'm not spending $10k on a roof and having to look at a wavy roof. So that's even more plywood + beams cost. They ran out of daylight today, at like 80% completed. Good thing it doesnt rain until tomorrow night.
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Jan 12, 2024 00:35
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Anyone ever hear of these guys or have experience with their product? https://uniqueappliances.com/product/off-grid-classic-30-propane-range/#black I got a propane line running to my old stove I need to replace. However it's proving extremely hard to find anyone willing to install the kit to convert NG to propane so just buying a propane stove is looking more attractive.
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Jan 12, 2024 04:06
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Crab Dad posted:Anyone ever hear of these guys or have experience with their product? That seems a bit much. Any gas appliance repairman should be able to do the conversion for you, its not a big deal. If you have a few hours you might be able to do it yourself without too much trouble--you really just need to follow the manufacturers instruction sheet edit: there's probably a demo video from a parts supplier showing the conversion process for your kit, if you have a major brand stove. I looked mine up and sure enough there's a video for the conversion kit I didn't know was available. Slanderer fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 04:26
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My propane company was happy to send out a guy to install the conversion kit on my dryer when I moved, have you checked with them?
Arrath fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 04:36
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My parents have propane, and when they buy a new appliance, whoever they buy it from installs it and does the conversion thing then. The kit alone for a preexisting appliance might just be too little for someone to want to come out
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Jan 12, 2024 04:38
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i like nice words
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I bought an appliance from Home Depot and they will not install the propane fittings nor hook it up. I called my gas company and they struggled to give me a name and I called them and they said they didn’t do this. I did call a plumber who said he would for $350 so that plus the oven makes it as expensive as the propane oven I linked. At this point I’m going to refund it and shop around more until I can find someone I can buy it from who will also install it. About 5 years ago I had my kitchen rebuilt and I recall it was pain to have that stove worked on.
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Jan 12, 2024 04:58
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| # ? May 29, 2024 17:28 |
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ante posted:I'm going to try again with a smaller bit and really hammer the anchor in there because it doesn't want to go. Use a 1/4" hammer drill bit. Only that size. Having the correct hole diameter is the thing that holds it. It should need a few taps with a hammer yes. https://www.confast.com/articles-flat-head-sleeve-anchors/
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Jan 12, 2024 06:29
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