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Kylaer posted:Is there a best choice for resin if I'm wanting to print small, highly-detailed tabletop miniatures? I've used several, currently trying Siraya Fast Tough ABS-like and it seems fine, but before I lay in a supply of anything I just want to check around. Phrozen Aqua 8K bills itself as a high-detail resin, is that one I should try? Price doesn't really matter, the difference between $20 and $50 a bottle for the amounts of resin I'm going to be using isn't significant. Print speed also doesn't matter because my painting speed is going to be glacial compared to my printing speed regardless of how slow it prints. My printer is an Anycubic M5s. It’s been a year since I’ve done a lot of resin printing but I would mix Siraya Tech Tenacious Resin with Phrozen or Elegoo ABS-like or whatever was good and cheap. I’d do like 10-25% Tenacious in the mix depending on how small the bits on the mini were. Lots of thin parts that could easily break? More tenacious. This made small miniatures flexible and not brittle.
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Jan 15, 2024 14:30
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Arcsech posted:Look into replacing your extruder gear. It’s a wear component that needs to be replaced roughly every few months of printing and causes underextrusion. I’d link you to a page on it but I’m mobile, it sounds like the symptoms match, except that I’m not sure why it would only impact one of several objects. I'm heading up to microcenter to buy an additional p1s ($40 cheaper then bambu store) but they look to be out of stock on the hardened steel gears, which I might as well update too I can run the same print on the new one to compare, but the old one is overdue for a full maintenance cleaning and lube anyway. I think they are starting to include those in all models now, or maybe I'm misremembering something I read a while ago
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Jan 15, 2024 18:16
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Speaking of, we're getting a Microcenter before too much longer in our area. Is there anything there I should consider looking at for my Ender 3 S1? I was planning on getting a spool or two, but I'd be interested to hear if they have anything special I should look out for or potentially avoid.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:51
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They've got a pretty good assortment of first-party Creality accessories, so if you're thinking about upgrading/replacing your extruder or getting a Klipper Pad or picking up some PEI plates it's a good source for that. As far as filament goes, I haven't found anything that I'd warn anyone away from yet; Inland filament is a good, consistent budget filament, especially the PLA+, and the one near me has a small assortment of more exotic (but about twice as expensive) Cookiecad and Protopasta stuff in unusual colors. It's all on the shelves in cardboard boxes, so make sure that you're not buying spoolless when you expect a spool, and that you're not accidentally grabbing one of the couple spools of 2.85mm filament they stock for the last few holdouts with Lulzbots.
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Jan 15, 2024 20:12
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I saw mention somewhere of "tough" PLA, and was wondering, is that the same thing as PLA+?
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Jan 15, 2024 20:40
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hark posted:I saw mention somewhere of "tough" PLA, and was wondering, is that the same thing as PLA+? Not likely. PLA+ isn't even the same thing as PLA+ between companies.
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Jan 15, 2024 20:46
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hark posted:I saw mention somewhere of "tough" PLA, and was wondering, is that the same thing as PLA+? It's PLA with the word "tough" in front. There are no distinguishing characteristics between PLA, PLA+, Tough PLA, etc. It's just marketing. There may be tangible differences between them within a single brand, but even that's not a given.
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Jan 15, 2024 21:57
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It's manufacturer-dependent, but generally "Tough PLA" is PLA with additives that give up a little bit of strength in exchange for about double the impact capacity. It's less brittle than plain PLA, so it can handle some situations where regular PLA would snap apart under bending. "PLA+", meanwhile, is pretty much just "PLA with whatever additives the manufacturer thinks makes it easier to print" usually The Chairman fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 22:16
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There is a slight difference between pla/+ and hyper/high flow PLA. I've learned that just from playing with the max. It's mainly just the flow rate so it'll actually print well at the higher speeds.
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Jan 15, 2024 23:45
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The Chairman posted:It's manufacturer-dependent, but generally "Tough PLA" is PLA with additives that give up a little bit of strength in exchange for about double the impact capacity. It's less brittle than plain PLA, so it can handle some situations where regular PLA would snap apart under bending. The additive is usually a small percentage of TPU, for the record.
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Jan 16, 2024 00:02
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A default tpu profile doesn't exist in superslicer, so I took a base stab at a voron profile based upon my bambu studio p1s profile and the voron is happily printing tpu. Aside from some very little stringing which I can adjust for, I notice either superslicer doesn't have a minimum layer time setting. Or what I think it is is broken. I think the setting that says below x seconds slow down up to t% should do it, but set to 12s I still see layers only taking 2a, which result in some nasty wall blobs. Anyone have much luck with that? Unrelated pic the family is growing 
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Jan 16, 2024 03:20
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Is there a place that goes through all the settings in the slicer and what they do and how you would want to calibrate or adjust them based on problems you want to fix? I feel like I don’t really understand some of the intermediate or advanced settings.
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Jan 16, 2024 04:35
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hark posted:I saw mention somewhere of "tough" PLA, and was wondering, is that the same thing as PLA+? I have used Bambu's Tough PLA and subjectively speaking it's both got more give and feels slightly denser than PLA. A bit more like PETG kinda. It's slightly glossy without being shiny. It's slightly "meltier" too. Which means it doesn't print quite as defined as PLA but not so much that it's been a problem for anything yet.
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Jan 16, 2024 06:07
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Any idea of what would cause this? Using Overture PETG on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. I hqven’t really played with belt tension at all, any possibility that is a factor? 
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Jan 16, 2024 17:56
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finally trying out a multi material print using this sample of Bambu Support for PLA i was given, wonder if it's any good. edit: lmao it resets the chamber fan to 100% on each material switch because i have one set wrong edit edit: jfc the material changes add a lot of print time Deviant fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jan 16, 2024 |
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Jan 16, 2024 18:13
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Bouillon Rube posted:Any idea of what would cause this? Using Overture PETG on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. I hqven’t really played with belt tension at all, any possibility that is a factor? Shot in the dark but miscalibrated pressure advance? I'd guess a slicer setting in any case
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Jan 16, 2024 18:16
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Deviant posted:edit edit: jfc the material changes add a lot of print time Oh yeah. It wastes a ton of filament too. Depending on the model and how it's colored, if you look in the slicer statistics, you'll often see more filament under "purge volume" than is actually used in the print itself.
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Jan 16, 2024 18:32
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WhiteHowler posted:Oh yeah. It wastes a ton of filament too. Depending on the model and how it's colored, if you look in the slicer statistics, you'll often see more filament under "purge volume" than is actually used in the print itself. It sure doesn’t help that the default purge volumes are sky high; I can usually get away with half the default unless it’s something really stupid like blue silk->orange, in which case I found I needed to actually go even above the default a bit.
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Jan 16, 2024 18:36
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WhiteHowler posted:Oh yeah. It wastes a ton of filament too. Depending on the model and how it's colored, if you look in the slicer statistics, you'll often see more filament under "purge volume" than is actually used in the print itself. I still like the AMS if only for roll to roll swaps mid print and being able to store 4 rolls in an airtight environment  and yeah, i'm burning a lot of this fancy support filament, but i guess that's what samples are for. (Yellow is the support interface layer). I wonder if i can tweak the slicer to waste less?
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Jan 16, 2024 18:40
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Deviant posted:finally trying out a multi material print using this sample of Bambu Support for PLA i was given, wonder if it's any good. In my experience, the support material wasn't that much easier to remove than normal PLA and I now use PETG for my interface layer... sometimes. I honestly now just usually print all supports in full PLA and play with the organic tree settings and the spacing.
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Jan 16, 2024 18:41
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mrbass21 posted:In my experience, the support material wasn't that much easier to remove than normal PLA and I now use PETG for my interface layer... sometimes. I honestly now just usually print all supports in full PLA and play with the organic tree settings and the spacing. My plan is to do PETG as support for PLA if i ever go this route again, but they sent me this material free so I might as well try it out.
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Jan 16, 2024 18:42
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In my experience the support for PLA has worked well when I’ve used it, but I’ve only used it for specific horizontal overhangs. For those just one filament change is needed and there is not much waste and it doesn’t take much time. A good feature for the slicer would be to be able to paint the areas where the interface filament is to be applied, so that it is only used in regions where it is really needed.
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Jan 16, 2024 18:50
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Deviant posted:My plan is to do PETG as support for PLA if i ever go this route again, but they sent me this material free so I might as well try it out. Yup. This is the exact path I took. I definitely wouldn't shell out the 4x price for it.
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Jan 16, 2024 19:01
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mewse posted:Shot in the dark but miscalibrated pressure advance? I'd guess a slicer setting in any case I was thinking that or a bad coast configuration. It looks like it's stopping the extruder too early for the corner.
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Jan 16, 2024 19:09
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Bambu Support for PLA, a Deviant review: idk this is interesting, it isnt that much easier to remove, but it does produce very nice bottom surfaces. I could very much see a use case for my stuff (Cosplay props) where finish on all sides is key. I may pick up a roll and keep it around, unless using PETG does the same results, which I need to test.
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Jan 16, 2024 21:20
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i have a troubleshooting question, not sure if this is just PETG being a pain in the rear end: on my A1 mini printing with default PETG settings and 0.16mm layers, each new layer that is laid down starts with a tiny nub sticking up past the layer height:  bambu slicer shows the seam as sticking up a tiny bit, but going through the gcode it’s not actually starting each layer at the seam, but one wall in:  so, the tiny vertical spike is at the start of that line on every single layer, for some reason. this was ruining my prints - the nub would catch on the nozzle in subsequent passes around on the same layer, get peeled up, and inevitably wreck things within the first couple layers. slowing the speeds down a lot makes it work out, but it’s still starting each layer with this tiny nub sticking up, and over time the nozzle bumps it and gets buildup. why would the printer be depositing 'extra' material at the start of each layer? if anything, the gcode shows it depositing less material to start a new layer (this is the first line of the new layer and following): 
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Jan 16, 2024 21:31
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Deviant posted:Bambu Support for PLA, a Deviant review: I've been pretty happy with it for when there are big flat overhangs that I can't avoid but really want to keep nice. Peels off nicely, too. I haven't tried PETG as support material, I personally think that's more toolchanger territory, but the sample spool of PLA support's been pretty good to me. Maybe I'll change my tune when I runs dry 
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Jan 16, 2024 22:04
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The Eyes Have It posted:I've been pretty happy with it for when there are big flat overhangs that I can't avoid but really want to keep nice. Peels off nicely, too. a big flat area was exactly what i was printing with it and it did a great job. even with the purge waste, i feel like a kg would last a while. and again, the nature of cosplay props is often "this must be crisp", not "eh, i can hide that in the back" or "this is a functional part" so i absolutey have a use case for it, but it vastly inflates print time
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Jan 16, 2024 22:06
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The Chairman posted:They've got a pretty good assortment of first-party Creality accessories, so if you're thinking about upgrading/replacing your extruder or getting a Klipper Pad or picking up some PEI plates it's a good source for that. Is there a writeup somewhere that details what among what they sell is worth getting? My S1 came with a PET plate so I'm good there. The laser module is a bad idea for a variety of reasons though I'd be lying if I said I didn't want it. Maybe a new nozzle; deffo a pad at some point.
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Jan 16, 2024 23:21
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Just how many meters are on a typical 1kg PLA roll?
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Jan 16, 2024 23:50
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kid sinister posted:Just how many meters are on a typical 1kg PLA roll? About 330
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Jan 16, 2024 23:56
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kid sinister posted:Just how many meters are on a typical 1kg PLA roll? Generally the manufacturer will list the density and approx length. You can expect about 330 meters.
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Jan 16, 2024 23:56
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kid sinister posted:Just how many meters are on a typical 1kg PLA roll? DID SOMEBODY ASK FOR ARITHMETIC??? WITH UNITS???  A Prusament PLA data sheet says it is 1.26g/cm³ Let's just pretend that a 1kg roll has exactly 1000g on it, to make things easier. And let's assume you meant 1.75mm diameter filament, which is what most people mean when they say "filament". First thing I want to do is get the grams out of there, and it looks like dividing by density is the way to do that: it will make the grams units cancel out: 1000g * (1cm³ / 1.26g) = 793cm³ Now, we've got cm³ (cm*cm*cm) and we want cm, so we're going to have to divide by cm². Do we have anything that looks like cm? Yes we do, we have the diameter! How do we get that into an area? We assume the filament is a perfect circle and use our good friend πr²! The radius is half the diameter, by definition: r = d/2 r = 1.75mm / 2 r = 0.875mm Super, let's plug that in: a = πr² a = π(0.875mm)² a = π(0.765625mm²) a ≅ 2.4052mm² Now we can just divide our total volume by the area of the filament cross-section we just calculated and we'll have a length: l = v / a l = 793cm³ / 2.4052cm² e: NO WRONG UNIT BONEHEAD l = 329.69cm e: THIS IS WRONG TOO l = 3.2969m e: THIS IS ALSO WRONG I hope this helps! 80% of physics 101 is just keeping track of units. e: OH poo poo I MIXED mm AND cm! I'm off by two orders of magnitude! let's fix this up. l = v / a l = 793cm³ / 0.02405cm² l = 32969cm l = 329.69m It was pretty easy to see where I messed up because I showed my units at each step. Always write down your units! 
cruft fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jan 17, 2024 |
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Jan 17, 2024 00:12
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cruft posted:DID SOMEBODY ASK FOR ARITHMETIC??? WITH UNITS??? I asked google how many meters in 1KG of filament, that seemed much easier than all of this lol
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Jan 17, 2024 00:19
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mattfl posted:I asked google how many meters in 1KG of filament, that seemed much easier than all of this lol Yeah. It's becoming very difficult to teach basic concepts, because people can just ask computers and get the right answers, or things that look like the right answers, without having to understand how to derive them. I'm still not sure how I'm going to deal with it, and now I have ChatGPT to deal with, too.
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Jan 17, 2024 00:23
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cruft posted:Yeah. ohhh you're a teacher, ok fair enough  I hated math in school lol
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Jan 17, 2024 00:28
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mattfl posted:ohhh you're a teacher, ok fair enough And another thing! I wish they still explained the difference between arithmetic and mathematics. I hated arithmetic, just like you. Lots of boring memorization and recitation. Who cares, just use a calculator. E: hey, thanks, I think I now have an idea about how to teach my topics in 2024 cruft fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jan 17, 2024 |
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Jan 17, 2024 00:32
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cruft posted:Yeah. I have an ambitious buddy who keeps trying to do engineering projects, and ... this. All of this. He'll be worrying at .0001 on something that isn't even 0.1. Or "I have enough motor.." do you? can you calculate the force needed to move that thing? *sighs* I do a LOT of hand holding.
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Jan 17, 2024 02:04
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If math is the universal language I'm just gonna be that dude yelling English really loud and slow to everyone.
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Jan 17, 2024 02:18
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store update: everywhere i read said said January was supposed to be quiet. i was hoping for some quiet to work on a website and all that. I'm pulling December numbers still, Like averaging $521/day currently on etsy for january. its bonkers
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