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It is the roller that the shower door used to hang from. https://www.swisco.com/Frameless-Shower-Hanger/pd/Lavatory-Replacement-Hardware/10-153
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Jan 21, 2024 22:03
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withak posted:It is the roller that the shower door used to hang from. Thanks!
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Jan 21, 2024 22:53
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Stove hood light burnt out and takes regular (A19) incandescents. Any reason I should avoid swapping them out for LEDs? I'm worried they won't work as well with the heat
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Jan 23, 2024 15:14
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Brute Squad posted:Stove hood light burnt out and takes regular (A19) incandescents. Any reason I should avoid swapping them out for LEDs? I'm worried they won't work as well with the heat I would share that worry. Just put in whatever the manufacturer suggests.
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Jan 23, 2024 15:25
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Brute Squad posted:Stove hood light burnt out and takes regular (A19) incandescents. Any reason I should avoid swapping them out for LEDs? I'm worried they won't work as well with the heat At hood height, there's not much extra heat. We use an LED in ours and it's fine. Use whatever you want.
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Jan 23, 2024 15:39
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Brute Squad posted:Stove hood light burnt out and takes regular (A19) incandescents. Any reason I should avoid swapping them out for LEDs? I'm worried they won't work as well with the heat Been using normal, cheap, LED lights in my vent hood for years with no problems.
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Jan 23, 2024 17:58
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jetz0r posted:Been using normal, cheap, LED lights in my vent hood for years with no problems. Same. I'd not do it *in* the oven, but over it, no problem.
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Jan 23, 2024 20:29
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I have two pairs of these adjustable dumbbells: The one pictured can no longer be adjusted. You're supposed to rotate the hubs on the ends, but each one won't turn more than about a half click (i.e. not enough to move from one weight setting to the next one). They're both just cheap Chinese weights, and as you can see, they've been sitting on the floor of my office, which gets a lot of dog fur. I'd much rather fix this one than throw it out, but I really have no clue where to start. As far as I can tell, there's no brand, and they didn't come with a maintenance manual or anything like that.
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Jan 24, 2024 17:49
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If you're getting resistance when it's turning it sounds like something is just caught in the "gears", I'd start by cleaning it as best you can, maybe try some compressed air or pipe cleaners
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Jan 24, 2024 17:55
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Talk to me about recaulking around a tub or shower pan: any tips tricks or pitfalls? What cleaning or prep do I need to do after scraping out the old gunk?
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Jan 24, 2024 19:52
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Arrath posted:Talk to me about recaulking around a tub or shower pan: any tips tricks or pitfalls? What cleaning or prep do I need to do after scraping out the old gunk? I have the video just for you! https://youtu.be/AcgErpZ_D0c?si=pggHaMFrOBKzt4eO Since I am absolute poo poo at making clean caulk lines, the painter's tape trick has helped me several times. Lots of different opinions on cleaners to spray/put down before recaulking.
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Jan 24, 2024 20:37
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facialimpediment posted:I have the video just for you! You're the best, thanks!
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Jan 24, 2024 20:47
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facialimpediment posted:I have the video just for you! There was so much debate online about taping or not I’m so confused
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Jan 25, 2024 00:50
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Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses 
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Jan 25, 2024 00:53
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012424_2 posted:Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses This is why you don't tap houses with logos.
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Jan 25, 2024 01:06
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tuyop posted:There was so much debate online about taping or not I’m so confused Exactly what "debate" are you seeing? Taping takes more time and materials, and you have to pay attention and take it off at the right time. Not taping takes skill and recent familiarity that most people who don't paint for a living will not have so the result is often subpar. It's an art, it's a craft....you can learn it, but you can also lose it when you haven't done it for a while.
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Jan 25, 2024 01:09
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I've had tape take the finish off the tub before.
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Jan 25, 2024 01:13
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kid sinister posted:I've had tape take the finish off the tub before. If low tack tape is taking the finish off of a tub it's got to be some sort of very specific situation........ My post is assuming things can handle painters tape, applied for an hour or so. If your caulk application is different from that you've got a whole other set of issues going on that are not likely to be solved by caulk. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 01:17
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012424_2 posted:Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses underneath that vinyl siding was painted brick Motronic posted:If low tack tape is taking the finish off of a tub it's got to be some sort of very specific situation........ My post is assuming things can handle painters tape, applied for an hour or so. If your caulk application is different from that you've got a whole other set of issues going on that are not likely to be solved by caulk. Yeah in most of my caulking projects, the tape is down for ~15-20 minutes and not adhered super-tight. It's not like painting projects where the tape stays while poo poo dries - for caulking, tape gets pulled as soon as the caulk is smoothed down. I *think* the no-tape alternative for a novice would be applying "too little" caulk, smoothing, then potentially adding more and smoothing if it wasn't enough coverage for the gap. I've never made that look very good though, but again, I suck at it!
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Jan 25, 2024 01:24
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Don’t worry, everyone sucks at caulk
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Jan 25, 2024 03:09
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Motronic posted:If low tack tape is taking the finish off of a tub it's got to be some sort of very specific situation........ My post is assuming things can handle painters tape, applied for an hour or so. If your caulk application is different from that you've got a whole other set of issues going on that are not likely to be solved by caulk. That, definitely. I've had good luck with one of these style tools for making nice caulk lines: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BNLQQ0 This dingus was also handy for removing the old stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3S6JFY Not absolutely necessary, but easier to handle than a regular razor blade scraper. The triangular blade part actually worked well for me. edit: Dr. Lunchables posted:Don’t worry, everyone sucks at caulk
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Jan 25, 2024 17:10
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Darchangel posted:That, definitely. Second those type of tools, I am able to do pretty nice caulk lines using them without too much difficulty.
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Jan 25, 2024 20:19
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My preferred method of caulking is to push the tip firmly into the corner instead of pulling it. The nozzle will smooth the bead as you go giving you a nice line with no need to do anything to it. Cut the nozzle further back for a bigger bead, closer to the the tip for a smaller bead. FYI that is why caulk nozzles are tapered. Practice it in an inconspicuous location and you will never go back to any other method. If you make a mistake, or the surface is bumpy and causes hills and valleys in the bead, just smooth it by pulling (not pushing) your finger across it in the same manner as the nozzle would, and have a roll of paper towels handy to wipe up the excess. You need to practice good trigger control. You will get the hang of it quickly, but basically you want a little bulb of caulk, the same size as your bead, traveling along in front of the tip as you push. You will need to vary the pressure on the trigger accordingly. Too much and the bead will blow up, too little and you have to go back over it. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 20:24
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I've always just used my finger and then cleaned up with a bit of paper towel after and it comes out OK. Once your finger is gooped up, wipe it off, and if you need to you can moisten it slightly with a wet paper towel to help it not adhere as much to the caulk. The trick is even pressure and going fast, rather than slow. The other trick is in just not caring if it's slightly uneven somewhere. Nobody but you will ever notice.
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Jan 25, 2024 21:27
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Rakeris posted:Second those type of tools, I am able to do pretty nice caulk lines using them without too much difficulty. I was really happy how my shower came out using, them, for sure.
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Jan 25, 2024 21:55
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Opopanax posted:If you're getting resistance when it's turning it sounds like something is just caught in the "gears", I'd start by cleaning it as best you can, maybe try some compressed air or pipe cleaners I sprayed it with air as much as I could. It'd help if there was a breakdown somewhere of how these things are supposed to work. I'm trying to figure it out from first principles, but I don't think I have it nailed down. Here's what I think: First, this is a half-dumbbell with the weights off:  You can see that the black plastic disks have notches on them. The disks closer to the end correspond to lighter weights, and have smaller and more frequent notches. It's an encoding, kind of like binary code, that just says how frequently that disk turns "on" and "off" as the user adjusts the dumbbell. The lightest weight turns on/off most frequently, etc. Here's a close-up of the "base" of this section, closest to the handle:  As you rotate the handle to adjust the dumbbell, the metal gear turns. There's a pattern of holes in the gear. If you look under the gear, you can see little rounded metal buttons:  I assume those can slot into the holes in the gear. So my guess is that the way this is supposed to work is: 1. User rotates dumbbell handle 2. Metal gear rotates 3. As part of rotating, it pushes buttons, which somehow causes the central column to engage/disengage rotating of the black plastic disks 4. Black plastic disks pick up / drop the weights accordingly What isn't clear to me is how step 3 works, and what's gone wrong to stop it from working. I've tried pushing the buttons, but I don't have an implement that's both thin enough to fit into the gap, narrow enough to fit between the teeth of the gear, and long enough to reach the buttons. A screwdriver kind of works but isn't able to press the buttons...not that I'm clear that pushing the buttons would actually help, mind.
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Jan 26, 2024 01:48
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Those pauls go into a set of detents on the weights. The math adds up to what you have on the wheel. It's more or less binary logic gates.
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Jan 26, 2024 02:08
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H110Hawk posted:Those pauls go into a set of detents on the weights. The math adds up to what you have on the wheel. It's more or less binary logic gates. By "pauls" you mean the rounded metal buttons? Mind you, the underlying issue is that the dumbbell is locked up and can't be adjusted, and I'm still not clear on how to go about fixing it...
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Jan 26, 2024 02:19
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Most likely there is a plastic moving part somewhere that has bent or slipped so it can’t move any more. Workout which parts are supposed to move and which aren’t and see where they are in contact.
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Jan 26, 2024 02:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:By "pauls" you mean the rounded metal buttons? Dogs? Teeth? Yeah. Basically you're going to need to get in there with a little hook or something and see which little bits are still moving vs locked out. Something is "slipped" or "jammed" against those. You might also see if there is a cap on the end that is pressed on which you can pry off. Ever done lockpicking? It's pretty hard without being able to touch it. I assume you've tried like, dropping it on cement on the stuck end? (So the force goes along the grip, not through the disks.) Or the opposite. withak posted:Most likely there is a plastic moving part somewhere that has bent or slipped so it can’t move any more. Workout which parts are supposed to move and which aren’t and see where they are in contact.
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Jan 26, 2024 02:36
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TooMuchAbstraction, have you looked on YouTube? You own what look like knockoff Bowflex SelectTech 552s, it’s likely that any troubleshooting video (I see several at a glance, would link except phoneposting) would apply to yours.
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Jan 26, 2024 02:52
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Thanks, y'all! There's some screws on the inside of the part near the handle, I guess I can try opening them up. They're Chinesium Phillips-head screws, so almost certainly they'll just strip in the process, but I think that's my only bet for accessing the internals. On the plus side, it's not like they can get more broken!illcendiary posted:TooMuchAbstraction, have you looked on YouTube? You own what look like knockoff Bowflex SelectTech 552s, it’s likely that any troubleshooting video (I see several at a glance, would link except phoneposting) would apply to yours. This is absolutely not something I would've been able to figure out on my own, thank you!
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Jan 26, 2024 03:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:By "pauls" you mean the rounded metal buttons? It's spelled "pawl", by the way, and yeah, sort of: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/pawl
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Jan 26, 2024 16:29
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Recently bought a fixer upper condo built in the 1920s (ask me about my great decisions!) One of the many issues that I've encountered: when my general contractor went to install a range hood, they opened up the ceiling and found this: The moisture is coming from a leaky brick chimney that's just out of camera - they're going to patch that up over the roof, which should stop the water from coming in. The thing I'm more concerned about is the mold. I had them scrape it off and spray it down with half peroxide / half vinegar, but am I further hosed than that if I can stop the moisture from coming through?
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Jan 27, 2024 21:27
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:The moisture is coming from a leaky brick chimney that's just out of camera - they're going to patch that up over the roof, which should stop the water from coming in. The thing I'm more concerned about is the mold. I had them scrape it off and spray it down with half peroxide / half vinegar, but am I further hosed than that if I can stop the moisture from coming through? Mold is everywhere, it's inescapable, and is only really an issue if you have existing respiratory issues or allergies that are aggravated by increased levels of spores. What matters is that you get that lumber dried and that it doesn't get wet again. Can you tell if the wood is rotten? Because it'll need to be replaced/sistered if so.
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Jan 27, 2024 21:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Mold is everywhere, it's inescapable, and is only really an issue if you have existing respiratory issues or allergies that are aggravated by increased levels of spores. What matters is that you get that lumber dried and that it doesn't get wet again. Can you tell if the wood is rotten? Because it'll need to be replaced/sistered if so. If the wood is OK, spray it with a coat of Killz primer to immobilize and stabilize it.
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Jan 27, 2024 22:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Mold is everywhere, it's inescapable, and is only really an issue if you have existing respiratory issues or allergies that are aggravated by increased levels of spores. What matters is that you get that lumber dried and that it doesn't get wet again. Can you tell if the wood is rotten? Because it'll need to be replaced/sistered if so. Qft, “mold” and the issues associated with it are so overblown. It’s not uncommon for water to make its way in through chimneys, vents, and any other roof penetrations. Fortunately damage is typically minimal. Ensure that it’s appropriately sealed from the roof side and have them check any other roof penetrations (vents, etc). If you can get on the roof yourself, head up there every 1-2 years with a gallon of roofing cement and trowel it on to any trouble spots. Frankly I’d be more concerned with the lead paint underneath the drywall.
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Jan 27, 2024 23:53
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Deteriorata posted:If the wood is OK, spray it with a coat of Killz primer to immobilize and stabilize it. If you're going to do this after it's all dry and mold/mildew is killed to help prevent future growth, then make sure to specifically use a waterbased primer that's labeled on the can or data sheet as antimicrobial. I had to double check, but Kilz 2 (waterbased) is antimicrobial. Whatever you do, don't use anything oil based like original Kilz which would be very susceptible to future mold/mildew growth.
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Jan 27, 2024 23:56
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Hit it with concrobium once you stop the water, then wall it off and forget it ever happened. It's gotta be dry and not going to get re-wet first though.
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Jan 28, 2024 00:23
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Following up on my busted adjustable dumbbell: this thing was not designed with maintenance in mind. The only accessible fasteners are four screws. These connect some red plastic caps to a larger piece of black plastic, and hold a spring in place. The black plastic, on the other side, is closely covered by the metal "gear" with all the holes in it for the encoder. The spring's job is to press a small plastic cylinder into the holes in the wheel. In between the two is a thin gap. Turns out those four screws use captive nuts, and the captive nuts aren't secured by anything. So once the screws are out, the nuts fall out of their holes, and then out of the piece entirely. I managed, with significant effort, to slide one of the nuts back into its hole, but without any way to apply pressure to it, I can't get a screw to mate with it. The reason the dumbbell broke, incidentally, was that the little plastic cylinder was stuck. In fact, I feel like it might be some kind of safety lock, i.e. its job is to provide extra resistance so that you don't accidentally release weights while in the middle of a workout. There's a small button next to it that you can use to forcibly retract it, which allows the dumbbell to be adjusted again. But as soon as it slips into one of the holes in the encoder wheel, it's stuck again. The good news is that if I remove the spring, then I can adjust the thing freely, and it works as a dumbbell again. I just don't have that safety, I guess. I'm also going to have to use glue or epoxy to reassemble the bits I removed.
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Jan 28, 2024 00:53
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