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devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Cosmik Debris posted:

How much work would it be to cut the cripple and put a header and jack studs in and frame it out like a window?

Prolly what I would do.

Or just put in two cripples on either side of the vent and remove that one.

Actually that's probably what I would do.

Embrace your inner Gary.

There's not a thing wrong with leaving the stud there.

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Deadite
Aug 30, 2003

A fat guy, a watermelon, and a stack of magazines?
Family.

Motronic posted:

Sure, if you know how to install another connector properly it should be a perfectly reasonable way to repair it. Some of those cords have "interesting" wires so that may present a challenge.

As far as figuring out what was wrong, with where that's burnt it looks like where the connector on that cord is attached to the rest of the cord. Get an exacto knifre or razor blade and cut back the insulation in that area - I bet you can find the problem and if it's obviously on the connection there you can be pretty sure the opposite side connector is fine. It usually is uinless it too is melted.

Thanks, I was just going to cut the wires and connect a new pre-wired barrel jack to that. I don’t think I could wire a jack myself.

Also I was wondering if there is a way to test the jacks for defects before I use them in a project. If I ran power through it would a multimeter indicate that there’s a problem? Or would I just need to leave it on for a while and see if it gets too hot?

Cosmik Debris
Sep 12, 2006

The idea of a place being called "Chuck's Suck & Fuck" is, first of all, a little hard to believe

devicenull posted:

Embrace your inner Gary.

There's not a thing wrong with leaving the stud there.

Well except that a normal adjustable duct vent doesn't just sit on top of the drywall, it has a flange that extends a couple inches inward. So you'd have to potentially notch the flange to account for the space the stud would take up. If it even works at all since the mechanism takes up space too.

Or you could use one that does sit on top of the drywall but then you lose the ability to close it.

Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Feb 1, 2024

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


My washer and dryer are in an alcove off the kitchen with some dead space above. I'd like to gain more storage by building shelves in there with the expedient of "plywood supported by say 2x2's along the sides and back edge", is there a rule of thumb for deciding what size plywood I should use for it to have that unsupported front span without bowing?

Figuring on storing laundry items and kitchen sundries like the spare paper towels and what not, nothing super heavy.

Alternate answer: don't be lazy, build a support at the middle.

Imbroglio
Mar 8, 2013

Arrath posted:

My washer and dryer are in an alcove off the kitchen with some dead space above. I'd like to gain more storage by building shelves in there with the expedient of "plywood supported by say 2x2's along the sides and back edge", is there a rule of thumb for deciding what size plywood I should use for it to have that unsupported front span without bowing?

Figuring on storing laundry items and kitchen sundries like the spare paper towels and what not, nothing super heavy.

Alternate answer: don't be lazy, build a support at the middle.

The Sagulator (https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/) is generally what you want for questions like this. I don't know exactly how to model the back edge support with it though.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Imbroglio posted:

The Sagulator (https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/) is generally what you want for questions like this. I don't know exactly how to model the back edge support with it though.

Oh that's handy as hell, thanks!

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Arrath posted:

My washer and dryer are in an alcove off the kitchen with some dead space above. I'd like to gain more storage by building shelves in there with the expedient of "plywood supported by say 2x2's along the sides and back edge", is there a rule of thumb for deciding what size plywood I should use for it to have that unsupported front span without bowing?

Figuring on storing laundry items and kitchen sundries like the spare paper towels and what not, nothing super heavy.

Alternate answer: don't be lazy, build a support at the middle.

How wide? I assume no more than 14" deep so you're not clouting your head whilst working the laundry.

What are you planning to load it/them with?

If the span is the width of both units (maybe 4' max) you can't go wrong with 3/4" plywood if you're putting ten gallons of laundry detergent up there.

Bonus is you can go with one of those giant-rear end bottles with a spigot on the bottom front & just drop the detergent straight into the (top-load) washer directly.

Dead Pressed
Nov 11, 2009
Consider a French cleat system. Modular and has plenty of room for supports depending on how you set it up. I'm building one for my master closet this weekend!

https://youtu.be/QYbexqIH4IY?si=aVNwjQ8e2Qfqjkrd

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


PainterofCrap posted:

How wide? I assume no more than 14" deep so you're not clouting your head whilst working the laundry.

What are you planning to load it/them with?

If the span is the width of both units (maybe 4' max) you can't go wrong with 3/4" plywood if you're putting ten gallons of laundry detergent up there.

Bonus is you can go with one of those giant-rear end bottles with a spigot on the bottom front & just drop the detergent straight into the (top-load) washer directly.

The width of both units so in the 4-5' range, I don't have the measurements in front of me. They're front loaders so the shelf might be upwards of 24" deep, though that is a fair point. If I were to get a top-load washer at some point that would be a head banger. I was thinking 3/4" just for the sheer strength of it.

But yeah, detergent, dryer sheets, misc stain removal extras, basic kitchen stuff that can be stashed up there. Nothing terribly heavy beyond the detergent.

Dead Pressed posted:

Consider a French cleat system. Modular and has plenty of room for supports depending on how you set it up. I'm building one for my master closet this weekend!

https://youtu.be/QYbexqIH4IY?si=aVNwjQ8e2Qfqjkrd

Wow that would be awesome, it would handily solve the 'what if i get a top-loader later' problem though it is beyond my tooling situation at least at the moment. Hmmm.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Arrath posted:

Wow that would be awesome, it would handily solve the 'what if i get a top-loader later' problem though it is beyond my tooling situation at least at the moment. Hmmm.

So what I'm hearing is you have a reason to buy more tools? Where's the problem?

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


devicenull posted:

So what I'm hearing is you have a reason to buy more tools? Where's the problem?

:hmmyes:

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


devicenull posted:

So what I'm hearing is you have a reason to buy more tools? Where's the problem?

The self fulfilling prophecy. I'm trying to build these shelves for more storage, so I need more tools to build the shelves but then I need more storage for the tools...

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Arrath posted:

The width of both units so in the 4-5' range, I don't have the measurements in front of me. They're front loaders so the shelf might be upwards of 24" deep, though that is a fair point. If I were to get a top-load washer at some point that would be a head banger. I was thinking 3/4" just for the sheer strength of it.

But yeah, detergent, dryer sheets, misc stain removal extras, basic kitchen stuff that can be stashed up there. Nothing terribly heavy beyond the detergent.

Wow that would be awesome, it would handily solve the 'what if i get a top-loader later' problem though it is beyond my tooling situation at least at the moment. Hmmm.

Three-quarter-inch plywood with perimeter surface cleats will be more than enough - there will be no sag. For the cleats: 5/8" pine will serve. Bonus: attach the shelves to the cleats with maybe 1-screw through the shelf surface to the cleat, makes it easier to remove them later

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice
I cleaned up my computer room and very quickly within like a day I notice a thin film of dust coating my desk despite there being a air filter in my room running 24/7, would the Corsi-Rosenthal Box fan filter setup linked to me earlier help with that or do I also need like a filter on my desk and not just off to the side in a corner? Or would setting up my roomba to clean my office help keep down the amount of dust I am potentially kicking up whenever I walk in? I haven't used my roomba in a while as I've been trying to clean/reorganize my apartment so there's no dangling wires anywhere for it to choke on and to give it unobstructed access to as much as I can.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012



(Still kinda messy as I'm still moving in, sorry.)

This shelf would be perfect for my toaster oven and microwave. The problem is that there is only a few inches of clearance between the top of those items and the bottom of the hutch thing, which could warp the hutch thing over time (and is maybe a safety hazard?)

I'd like to put in a pull out shelf thing there to deal with this problem, but I can't seem to find one. I feel like Rev-A-Shelf should offer one but they have a million products and I have no idea how to find what I really need.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Raenir Salazar posted:

I cleaned up my computer room and very quickly within like a day I notice a thin film of dust coating my desk despite there being a air filter in my room running 24/7, would the Corsi-Rosenthal Box fan filter setup linked to me earlier help with that or do I also need like a filter on my desk and not just off to the side in a corner? Or would setting up my roomba to clean my office help keep down the amount of dust I am potentially kicking up whenever I walk in? I haven't used my roomba in a while as I've been trying to clean/reorganize my apartment so there's no dangling wires anywhere for it to choke on and to give it unobstructed access to as much as I can.

Pretty sure we discussed this here or in the small/stupid questions thread a few months ago, but no air filtration system is going to save you from dusting.

It's also not surprising that there'd be extra dust shortly after cleaning, because you kicked up a lot of dust by cleaning, which then settled down over the course of the next day.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Better still, wait until you learn that we are the dust. Or the dust is us. Mostly.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Darchangel posted:

Better still, wait until you learn that we are the dust. Or the dust is us. Mostly.

Oh dear god. :ohdear:


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Pretty sure we discussed this here or in the small/stupid questions thread a few months ago, but no air filtration system is going to save you from dusting.

It's also not surprising that there'd be extra dust shortly after cleaning, because you kicked up a lot of dust by cleaning, which then settled down over the course of the next day.

Hm, but I would still like to minimize the amount of maintenance I do, like dusting things myself like once a week ideally.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Dusting once a week is perfectly reasonable. So what's the question then?

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Dusting once a week is perfectly reasonable. So what's the question then?

Right, I want to aim for dusting once a week. I feel like right now if I do that then things get dirty a bit too fast or maintenance piles up too quickly which results in me putting them off for months.

Scam Likely
Feb 19, 2021

I'm in need of some help troubleshooting a loose door handle. It's an Omnia fancy pants handle, with a split spindle. Unfortunately I can't figure out why the spindle halves no longer connect, so the handles just pop off regardless of how tight the set screws are. Has anyone dealt with this, and if so, is there something obvious I'm missing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLOoLGnzryY

Pretty sure it's this Omnia lever latch set, but it's from a 2008 construction so hard to say if the exact part is still being sold.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Are those set screws (b on the diagram) missing, maybe?

Hutla
Jun 5, 2004

It's mechanical

Raenir Salazar posted:

Right, I want to aim for dusting once a week. I feel like right now if I do that then things get dirty a bit too fast or maintenance piles up too quickly which results in me putting them off for months.

Dusting is in addition to vacuuming regularly. How often are you vacuuming? Ideally at minimum once per week. If you’re outsourcing to a roomba, 2x per week is better. Also, if you have flat surfaces that are dark in color, you will see dust settling way faster than if the desktop or whatever is light colored. There’s just no way around that.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Scam Likely posted:

I'm in need of some help troubleshooting a loose door handle. It's an Omnia fancy pants handle, with a split spindle. Unfortunately I can't figure out why the spindle halves no longer connect, so the handles just pop off regardless of how tight the set screws are. Has anyone dealt with this, and if so, is there something obvious I'm missing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLOoLGnzryY

Pretty sure it's this Omnia lever latch set, but it's from a 2008 construction so hard to say if the exact part is still being sold.

You'll have to remove both handles & see why the two halves of the spindle won't stay assembled. I'm guessing that there's some sort of keyway that is now stripped. I don't see where they sell replacements, and I don't have enough data to know why you can't just replace the spindle with a solid one.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Hutla posted:

Dusting is in addition to vacuuming regularly. How often are you vacuuming? Ideally at minimum once per week. If you’re outsourcing to a roomba, 2x per week is better. Also, if you have flat surfaces that are dark in color, you will see dust settling way faster than if the desktop or whatever is light colored. There’s just no way around that.

Well, used to be never. I would vaccuum occassionally the mat for the front door whenever it got too dirty and the cat litter mat for the same. And sometimes once in a blue moon I'd use it on like cracks in the floor boards (fake cheap wood floor boards that are all pealing etc); I noticed for the first time that my vacuum has like, a filter that needed cleaning, like a solid cm of dust caked to one side of it; I scrapped that off, rinsed it, put it into the washing machine and I'll see if this helps. As I normally have always just kinda hated vacuum cleaners ever since I was a kid because they never seemed to do the job as well as a broom. But maybe this is why?

So basically this has been my plan, clean and reorganize everything so the robot won't choke on any wires or clothes, give it as close to maximum floor access as I can feasibly do; then let the roomba like daily clean what it can, it lacks the battery power it seems to do my full apartment?

I'm almost done, I got my bedroom, kitchen, and old office to clean reorganize and then I think I'm all set and then I just need to mop with the swiffer once a week to any supplement vacuuming/dusting?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



We have two long haired cats and have not met a robot vacuum that can take their hair off the carpet. It’s a moot point. Just gotta vacuum it manually at least once a week.

Pics of cats for cat tax


Spaghetti, yelling on toilet


Meatball, indignant

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Dr. Lunchables posted:

We have two long haired cats and have not met a robot vacuum that can take their hair off the carpet. It’s a moot point. Just gotta vacuum it manually at least once a week.

Pics of cats for cat tax


Spaghetti, yelling on toilet


Meatball, indignant

Adorbs. I don't have a carpet though, just a specific mat I placed under their litter which I assume helps with cleanup? I should get a cover for their litter as well.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Yeah, covered litter boxes and humidity control are huge in arresting dust. A big rear end air exchange and good furnace filters are also a must.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Yeah, covered litter boxes and humidity control are huge in arresting dust. A big rear end air exchange and good furnace filters are also a must.

I actually do have a dehumidifier in my computer room as I suspect humidity is why a lot of "dust" on the inside of my computer is more like a paste than dust that could be blown off even with a high powered air compressor. Also didn't help my power supply was upside down! (facing up, away from the mesh filter at the bottom of the case)

So by air exchange do you mean the corsi box mentioned earlier? I was thinking of getting a box fan and then a MEV 14 filter (is this overkill if I'm not in a woodshop?) on one end and a mev 2 or 3 on the other which I think I also suggested earlier as an alternative and then just placing it somewhere, maybe one for my computer room and one for my living room and put the current air filter in my bed room?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I meant a furnace filter, essentially. Newer HVAC systems have fans that will run at variable speeds pretty much all the time to circulate and purify air, in the same manner as a corsi box, but with greater effect since it’s already going throughout your house. I don’t imagine it would cost much or be very hard to upgrade the filter housing on your current furnace without replacing the fan though. Even the older furnace at the house I rented had a “fan on” option, which means you’ll be running a house-wide corsi box. Bonus points if your HVAC has a humidity controller.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Dr. Lunchables posted:

I meant a furnace filter, essentially. Newer HVAC systems have fans that will run at variable speeds pretty much all the time to circulate and purify air, in the same manner as a corsi box, but with greater effect since it’s already going throughout your house. I don’t imagine it would cost much or be very hard to upgrade the filter housing on your current furnace without replacing the fan though. Even the older furnace at the house I rented had a “fan on” option, which means you’ll be running a house-wide corsi box. Bonus points if your HVAC has a humidity controller.

To be clear I don't have an HVAC system or anything like that, during the summers I use a portable AC unit; and during the winters I just have the heaters that line the bottom of a wall. So right now there's "nothing" to put a filter on. Hence my question about a box fan.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dr. Lunchables posted:

I meant a furnace filter, essentially. Newer HVAC systems have fans that will run at variable speeds pretty much all the time to circulate and purify air, in the same manner as a corsi box, but with greater effect since it’s already going throughout your house. I don’t imagine it would cost much or be very hard to upgrade the filter housing on your current furnace without replacing the fan though. Even the older furnace at the house I rented had a “fan on” option, which means you’ll be running a house-wide corsi box. Bonus points if your HVAC has a humidity controller.

Just putting a higher restriction filter into your 1" x30xwhatever filter box is going to have you going off on high limit in the summer and reduce cooling performance/actually freeze the evap in the summer. Pretty much anyone who works in HVAC has been on service calls over the 3M filters they sell at Lowes Depot. The "repair" is to pur a $1 blue filter back in.

If one really wants to use a furnace as a whole home filter you need to replace the filter box with something that can actually flow properly while still having the filtering characteristics you want. That's typically going to be somethiung like an Aprilaire 2300 series which uses $35+ filters.

"Humidity control" is literally a different thing called a humidifier (which hapopens to use your forced air ducting and furnace fan in most cases) and they are not cheap to buy, install, run or maintain.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Yeah, the idea was to replace the entire housing, not just cram more filter in there. Either way, doesn’t matter, OP doesn’t have that.

The box oughta work fine.

Hutla
Jun 5, 2004

It's mechanical
Yeah, all tools need maintenance, including vacuums. Once they get clogged, they can’t move any air which means no sucking power at the intake.The filters need either regular replacement or cleaning- some filters need to be rinsed, some can use soap, some will just disintegrate. If you can’t find the manual for your vacuum, you can almost always look it up online with the model number.

Moving stuff around always kicks up way more dirt and dust than you think. Do a first pass, empty your vacuum, and do a second pass, you’ll be amazed at what was still there. If you can get on a regular maintenance cleaning schedule, then you can go longer in between the deep cleans. With 2 people and a cat, our roomba runs 2x/ week in each room and then I do a deeper clean with the real vacuum every 2-3 weeks. Without the constant maintenance, I’d have to vacuum every 5-7 days.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
It sucks but it doesn't suck... Quite the philosophical problem.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

We got an IKEA bookshelf for my 12 year old this weekend, and after we moved the packs into their room they started putting it together on their own. When I checked in on them I noticed they had gotten past a step (setting some pegs) that required a hammer, one of the tools that the kit did not provide and they didn't have on hand. I asked them what they had done and they had just reversed the screwdriver and bashed them in with the handle. I immediately thought of this thread title.

Anyway they're in charge of renovations now, they're going to leave some great work for the future owners I can tell.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


When you have a nail, everything looks like a hammer

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

brugroffil posted:

When you have a nail, everything looks like a hammer

Everything is a hammer, actually.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

Dr. Lunchables posted:

We have two long haired cats and have not met a robot vacuum that can take their hair off the carpet. It’s a moot point. Just gotta vacuum it manually at least once a week.

Pics of cats for cat tax


Spaghetti, yelling on toilet


Meatball, indignant

Absolutely wonderful creatures, and not just because of the amazing names you've given them!

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Ashcans posted:

We got an IKEA bookshelf for my 12 year old this weekend, and after we moved the packs into their room they started putting it together on their own. When I checked in on them I noticed they had gotten past a step (setting some pegs) that required a hammer, one of the tools that the kit did not provide and they didn't have on hand. I asked them what they had done and they had just reversed the screwdriver and bashed them in with the handle. I immediately thought of this thread title.

Anyway they're in charge of renovations now, they're going to leave some great work for the future owners I can tell.
Yeah I've used screwdriver handles for hammers before. It's legit.

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