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smax posted:
Thanks, snagged a kit because I want my far more rigid machine to hit speeds the Mini hits with current firmware.
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Feb 5, 2024 20:07
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Heads up! Prusa's accepting orders for the MK3.5 upgrade kit. For MK3/3S/3S+ users this means upgrading the board and a few other things to get vastly increased print speed and integrated networking features. Price is $250 and FedEx shipping is suprisingly reasonable.
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| # ? May 28, 2024 02:31 |
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i keep almost upgrading my mk3s to a 3.5 or a 4 just to bring it up to modern features, but also the x1c is doing the job fine. the mk3 and the mini have been collecting dust.
Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 20:17
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Deviant posted:i keep almost upgrading my mk3s to a 3.5 or a 4 just to bring it up to modern features, but also the x1c is doing the job fine. th3 mk3 and the mini have been collecting dust. I may get an X1C or P1* later this year, but I like to keep my existing machines relatively current just because.
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Feb 5, 2024 20:23
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I am afraid that upgrading to a 3.5 will break MMU2 compatibility, which is already touchy at best
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Feb 5, 2024 20:46
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Sockser posted:I am afraid that upgrading to a 3.5 will break MMU2 compatibility, which is already touchy at best the mmu2 itself is touchy at best. Some Pinko Commie posted:I may get an X1C or P1* later this year, but I like to keep my existing machines relatively current just because. 
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Feb 5, 2024 20:47
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I'm trying to fix up this E3v2 so it reliably, like... works. Then I'm supposed to give it to my brother in law. I currently have the original bed, a wildly uneven magnetic sheet stuck to it, a textured PEI sheet, yellow springs I never touch, and a CR Touch. The firmware does a 7x7 point probe before every print to deal with the bed unevenness. I would like a magnetic bed with no springs, a smooth PEI sheet, and the same CR Touch, maybe with like a 5x5 probe or even a 3x3. Is that even an upgrade path that exists? I can't find much in the way of replacing the whole bed, so I might just get a smooth sheet, keep the firmware, and apologize for the excruciatingly slow bed probe before every print. But at least things stick now, and it would be pretty resilient against changing build plate. cruft fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 20:47
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Sockser posted:I am afraid that upgrading to a 3.5 will break MMU2 compatibility, which is already touchy at best I never saw the benefit in MMU-type setups other than backup material if one spool runs out but maybe the AMS add-on will change my mind someday.
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Feb 5, 2024 20:58
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Some Pinko Commie posted:I never saw the benefit in MMU-type setups other than backup material if one spool runs out but maybe the AMS add-on will change my mind someday. 99+% of my usage has just been "always has black PLA and black PETG loaded and ready to go and I don't need to walk downstairs and gently caress around with it to swap out filament"
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Feb 5, 2024 21:04
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Sockser posted:99+% of my usage has just been "always has black PLA and black PETG loaded and ready to go and I don't need to walk downstairs and gently caress around with it to swap out filament" Yeah, 2 rolls of main color, 1 of secondary, 1 of support material is my main setup. I just hate the waste, so I only really do flat supported layers or colors. That way, it only changes on 2 layers.
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Feb 5, 2024 21:08
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Sockser posted:99+% of my usage has just been "always has black PLA and black PETG loaded and ready to go and I don't need to walk downstairs and gently caress around with it to swap out filament" I’m picturing a room in the basement where the filament is, with tubes running through the walls to the various rooms where the printers are.
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Feb 5, 2024 21:09
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Son of Rodney posted:Did you create the STL files for dungeon tiles etc. yourself or did you buy licensed STL from somewhere? I've found a few options that seem cool but either they're a few hundred bucks up-front, which is a bit much to start out with, or very expensive to buy piece-meal. We've been learning blender a bit and I'm confident we can create some stuff by ourself but of course that will take a while. Queeb has mentioned licensing products in previous posts. If you're going to get into building your own, Blender will be fine for modeling blocky stuff like the basic tile form, doorways etc, but when it comes to anything organic like figures or rounding corners on stone blocks, you would work faster in a sculpting program. Zbrush is industry standard but they cost an arm and a leg now for a subscription. You could check out Nomad Sculpt if you have an iPad. Blender also has sculpting tools but I think they suck.
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Feb 5, 2024 22:14
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HueForge is going to have a new feature, Color Pop. Here's a "tutorial" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBGEZ-dYwFI The author is pretty bad at explaining things but here's the scoop: basically if you've used HueForge, you've probably stopped using it because it lacks color pop. Here's HueForge in a nutshell, illustrated with an image that looks like the OBVIOUS slam-dunk candidate for a good hueforge output:  BUT  HueForge is more   and there's absolutely no way to get a lick more.
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Feb 5, 2024 22:54
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But with color pop you can (in theory) get if you fiddle for a couple of minutes: Which after another ten realtime minutes of fiddling you might turn into  So how does this work? Who loving knows? It works the way HueForge and god intended: by fiddling sliders to adjust the breakpoint between "this luminance range is greyscale" and "this luminance range is color" and mixing that with adjusting other color sliders until things look right. Definitely not the way you, a normal sane person, want it to work, but on the other hand it is absolutely the way you and me, HueForge purchasers both, deserve 
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Feb 5, 2024 22:55
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cruft posted:I'm trying to fix up this E3v2 so it reliably, like... works. Then I'm supposed to give it to my brother in law. I gave up even trying to work with my E2v2. It still works, but the print times are just SO much slower then all my other printers and I dont need to bother with setup and tweaking and leveling the bed anymore. I am actually looking into printing an adaptor and adding a pen to do some fancy 2d artwork insead. Roundboy posted:you guys are the worst so this is a random M5 nut and bolt with the same thread pattern scaled up 700%. they printed great but the threads bind SO hard. not sure where i can even begin to tweak that or just resolve myself to the fact that scaled up metric threads are just bad at absurd levels
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Feb 5, 2024 22:55
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Roundboy posted:I gave up even trying to work with my E2v2. It still works, but the print times are just SO much slower then all my other printers and I dont need to bother with setup and tweaking and leveling the bed anymore. I am actually looking into printing an adaptor and adding a pen to do some fancy 2d artwork insead. M35 What format is it in? Can you do a press/pull on the threads? Alternatively, you can make it solid walled and add your own threads.
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Feb 5, 2024 23:06
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i leave yall alone for a few days and everyone descends into oversized-novelty-crap printing
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Feb 5, 2024 23:25
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Deviant posted:i leave yall alone for a few days and everyone descends into oversized-novelty-crap printing Hey, it allowed me to give my wife an extra nice xmas and the reason I have 3 printers now lol
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Feb 5, 2024 23:39
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Bondematt posted:M35 M5 * xx with coarse thread spacing. Downloaded as a STEP file and just slicer resized to 700% and printed. looking closer, it seems the threads are not printed as clean, a little wobble in the edges. I either need to slow down these overhangs or change orientation
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Feb 6, 2024 00:22
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This will be useful knowledge whenever someone builds something that requires an M350 bolt.
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Feb 6, 2024 00:26
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Edit : dupe posting
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Feb 6, 2024 00:27
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Roundboy posted:
I had this problem with some hardware I printed on my X1C from McMaster-Carr CAD files. I ended up running a tap through the nut and chased the threads with a die, which obviously won’t work in your case. I did some searching and ran across this tutorial if you’re a Fusion360 user: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGWrFeu8Hv0 With that tutorial and some experimentation, I was able to pretty easily create functional threads. I thought about trying to experiment with profile settings to get the McMaster Carr CAD files to print correctly, but I had a need for a prototype part with threads, so I just went the Fusion360 route.
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Feb 6, 2024 00:29
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LordOfThePants posted:I had this problem with some hardware I printed on my X1C from McMaster-Carr CAD files. I ended up running a tap through the nut and chased the threads with a die, which obviously won’t work in your case. oh nice. I need to model a few things that require threads, or at least have threading added to them. I realize what i printed was a novelty and the threads were probably too deep to be practical, but MMC offers step models smooth with no threads so its possible to use them as a base in fusion, and add my personal working threads. Playing with modeling now to see
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Feb 6, 2024 00:35
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I was this close to hurling my Mono X in the garbage, when i noticed the gray resin i've been trying to make work is expired. gonna try to burn through these clear elegoo bottles i have and then replace with...more sirayatech fast gray? is that still the best? Deviant fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 00:56
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Deviant posted:I was this close to hurling my Mono X in the garbage, when i noticed the gray resin i've been trying to make work is expired. Yes but it's pricey. Esun and atlas Vulcan are also good
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Feb 6, 2024 01:59
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Roundboy posted:so this is a random M5 nut and bolt with the same thread pattern scaled up 700%. they printed great but the threads bind SO hard. not sure where i can even begin to tweak that or just resolve myself to the fact that scaled up metric threads are just bad at absurd levels My printer prints objects about 0.010-015" bigger than the model dimensions. This almost never matters EXCEPT for stuff like threads. Accordingly, I haven't had great results with printing threads that are modeled to spec. However, when I model the threads myself and slightly oversize the hole & undersize the bolt, it works gloriously  If you just want a silly giant bolt and nut that thread together, printing that nut a little bigger laterally without stretching the threads taller will probably get it done
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Feb 6, 2024 03:44
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Javid posted:My printer prints objects about 0.010-015" bigger than the model dimensions. This almost never matters EXCEPT for stuff like threads. Accordingly, I haven't had great results with printing threads that are modeled to spec. However, when I model the threads myself and slightly oversize the hole & undersize the bolt, it works gloriously Do you do a specific percentage size difference between bolt and hole?
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Feb 6, 2024 03:47
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No, it isn't a percentage, it's been a pretty consistent 10-15 thou, at least in the 0-1~ish inch size range where I do threads
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Feb 6, 2024 04:38
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If you're modeling this is the video I use as reference on how to tweak threads once modeled (around the 6m mark): https://youtu.be/1nhcKn7Kt8w
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Feb 6, 2024 04:46
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NewFatMike posted:I used to do it in tiny increments, definitely go with larger ones. I did the whole paper test business before but looking back I realize that paper sure does have different “gauges”/stocks and the entire affair is fairly subjective. Is there anything I should be looking out for regarding getting too low? I know that elephant foot-ing is a thing and presumably nozzle striking if I really overshoot.
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Feb 6, 2024 04:52
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Javid posted:No, it isn't a percentage, it's been a pretty consistent 10-15 thou, at least in the 0-1~ish inch size range where I do threads Huh Are your steps just not correct on your motors if it's coming out 10% larger consistently? w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 04:57
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cruft posted:I'm trying to fix up this E3v2 so it reliably, like... works. Then I'm supposed to give it to my brother in law. You could have it generate a mesh and then have it load the mesh and do a 3 point test to make sure the mesh is still accurate. I’ve done this in Klipper and Marlin and my bed is fairly warped and there’s no pre-probing I do now. The stored mesh seems to work no problem.
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Feb 6, 2024 04:58
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w00tmonger posted:Huh that is the opposite of what that post says
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Feb 6, 2024 04:59
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Warbird posted:I did the whole paper test business before but looking back I realize that paper sure does have different “gauges”/stocks and the entire affair is fairly subjective. Is there anything I should be looking out for regarding getting too low? I know that elephant foot-ing is a thing and presumably nozzle striking if I really overshoot. Definitely use thinner gauge paper. I liked receipt paper before I put the enders away because it seems to even give a visual indicator of contact before the paper jams but maybe i'm full of poo poo.
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Feb 6, 2024 05:04
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Mistaken For Bacon posted:Definitely use thinner gauge paper. I liked receipt paper before I put the enders away because it seems to even give a visual indicator of contact before the paper jams but maybe i'm full of poo poo. In my experience, paper gets you in the ballpark. Then you print and see how the squish and first layer go down and do smaller adjustments to dial it in.
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Feb 6, 2024 05:12
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Deviant posted:I was this close to hurling my Mono X in the garbage, when i noticed the gray resin i've been trying to make work is expired. it failed with newer resin too. my settings are hosed or my screen/lights are borked. I thought 1.6s exposure would be enough with lychee auto medium supports, but maybe i'm wrong edit: you know what, when i had that vat leak, it got into the machine. i wonder if my lamp is just coated with a layer of resin, bc these settings _used_ to work. i cleaned it, but it's hard to get everything. maybe it *is* new machine time. i've learned a lot and machines have improved significantly. Deviant fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 06:14
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Ok, X1C with AMS and printing ASA with HIPS support is totally cheat mode.
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Feb 6, 2024 08:02
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Ok, X1C with AMS and printing ASA with HIPS support is totally cheat mode. Isn't it?! PLA & PETG and ASA/ABS & HIPS are huge for printing anything with a flat supported surface using the AMS. I got 4 spools of HIPS for cheap a while back and I've barely touched the first spool. You just don't use very much for the 2 interface layers. Curved/angled supported surfaces are possible, but so much waste I just avoid them.
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Feb 6, 2024 08:22
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Warbird posted:I did the whole paper test business before but looking back I realize that paper sure does have different “gauges”/stocks and the entire affair is fairly subjective. Is there anything I should be looking out for regarding getting too low? I know that elephant foot-ing is a thing and presumably nozzle striking if I really overshoot. The paper test is really there to tram your Z axis relative to your XY plane, it doesn’t perform the same function as a first layer offset. That tramming is also only as good as the build plate’s flatness. A sufficiently warped build plate will need to be shimmed or is just scrap. The object of the paper test is that there is *some* consistent known distance between various test points on your plate and your Z axis. The amount isn’t important because the amount is determined by your first layer calibration and Z offset (I.e. setting a tool length offset because you adjust it each time you change filament).
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Feb 6, 2024 14:18
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I'm going to play with threading but one of the linked videos rounded the extreme cuts the thread edges have which seems to have the most effect Simply scaling up and printing metal screw threads was not going to work unless I printed the screw edge exactly. Even then it's a tossup. Some screw on lids for containers on stls I downloaded and printed are just wide and shallow, and the screw pretty tight. One issue that I never see addressed is timing the threads. If I want to align the lid and base so a locking loop is placed aligned, do you index off where the threads start or is there too much slop in that method?
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Feb 6, 2024 16:25
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| # ? May 28, 2024 02:31 |
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I am at the end of my rope with this Mono X. What I wanted:  (lost the lychee slicer file, sorry, this is the most that workshop will render) what I got:   This is elegoo clear standard blue resin, with these settings:  Is that really not enough support? I believe it's autogenerated medium in lychee. I never used to have issues with this machine, or any of these resins. Machine UV power is @ 85%. Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 16:57
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