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Is my rough read that Bamboo stuff tends to be the rough "Apple" equivalent in the 3DP space more or less on point?
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Feb 6, 2024 17:04
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They're in the midst of recalling an entire model printer due to fires. So yes?
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Feb 6, 2024 17:11
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Warbird posted:Is my rough read that Bamboo stuff tends to be the rough "Apple" equivalent in the 3DP space more or less on point? I'd say this is true except for the fact that the price point is actually worth the performance you get instead of being wildly inflated by it's popularity (to the same degree that apple products are, at least)
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Feb 6, 2024 17:13
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Deviant posted:I am at the end of my rope with this Mono X. Was anything left on the FEP itself? A few large puddles or a half-printed model that fell off later on in the print process? The supports are failing, and I can envision two main ways they're failing in this picture. If there's one or a few mostly flat puddles left on the FEP, have you run cones of calibration with this specific resin? The beauty of CoC is that it is almost perfectly recreating the tips of supports and dialing them in to exactly what is best under your conditions. If there's a half-printed object left on the FEP then the support tips are probably dialed in and the mechanical weight broke it free later on in the process. At that point look for suction cupping as it kinda looks like the model is hollow, or look into just putting one stonkin' huge mofo of a support at the base to physically hold the weight for the rest of the printing process.
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Feb 6, 2024 17:49
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bird food bathtub posted:Was anything left on the FEP itself? A few large puddles or a half-printed model that fell off later on in the print process? The supports are failing, and I can envision two main ways they're failing in this picture. If there's one or a few mostly flat puddles left on the FEP, have you run cones of calibration with this specific resin? The beauty of CoC is that it is almost perfectly recreating the tips of supports and dialing them in to exactly what is best under your conditions. If there's a half-printed object left on the FEP then the support tips are probably dialed in and the mechanical weight broke it free later on in the process. At that point look for suction cupping as it kinda looks like the model is hollow, or look into just putting one stonkin' huge mofo of a support at the base to physically hold the weight for the rest of the printing process. - I haven't run the cones, but I was using manufacturer approved settings. The cones are such a pain in the rear end to run over and over and clean up the failed bits from the vat.  - There is an outline of each piece on the FEP, basically flat. - The model is _not_ hollow, despite how workshop is making it look.  is what was left on the fep (i ran a rectangle to clean it off easily, you can see the shapes in it though)So, a tiny bit of support, but mostly a big flat puddle in the shape of the piece.
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Feb 6, 2024 18:04
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Warbird posted:Is my rough read that Bamboo stuff tends to be the rough "Apple" equivalent in the 3DP space more or less on point? no, not really. if you want a machine that is engineered and streamlined to within an inch of its life, that you plonk down on your desk, power it on, and never ever have to think about how its doing what its doing. and then can take it into the bambu store in town when it breaks? like, a machine you buy for your aging parents? no, there isn't really a equivilent in the consumer/hobbyist space. (maybe there is at a pro/industrial level? my only experience is with the local hackerspaces form 3+, which is a £2.5k resin printer which is pretty astonishingly good) but! its certainly a gently caress sight closer than 90%+ of other printers that you spend much of your time flashing firmware, printing new cooling shrouds, replacing fans etc (ask me how i know lol) work on the assumption of minimal cocking about with, rather than no cocking about with
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Feb 6, 2024 18:09
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Deviant posted:- I haven't run the cones, but I was using manufacturer approved settings. The cones are such a pain in the rear end to run over and over and clean up the failed bits from the vat. Yeah run some calibration models. The times from the manufacturor can be substantially off and I suspect it's mainly marketing to make people think they don't need to calibrate. Models not attaching to supports points to either under/overexposure, or issues with your fep (scratches, accidentally not removing plastic when. Installing it, etc)
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Feb 6, 2024 18:23
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w00tmonger posted:Yeah run some calibration models. The times from the manufacturor can be substantially off and I suspect it's mainly marketing to make people think they don't need to calibrate. ugh, fine, but it's such a pain in the rear end. And i definitely didn't leave the protective layer on the FEP. (this time). It's fairly clean/unscratched, but I'll change it out just to be certain. Also is my file bad, or are the cones of calibration _really small_? It's almost hard to read the text. Deviant fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 18:29
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Deviant posted:ugh, fine, but it's such a pain in the rear end. Eh, your FEP is probably fine. If you ran the cleaner cycle and peeled it off then you should be good as long as there's nothing obvious, and if you're using translucent resin you can just look at it. If there's nothing big enough to be visible you're probably fine. Just run the cones of calibration and confirm your support tips are actually making contact. With the entire model being a puddle right from the start and not having even partially printed it makes me lean towards your settings not being fine-tuned enough to produce the last little bit between the end of the support and the actual model itself, so it never even made contact right from the get-go. Edit; yes the CoC are very small. It's basically a short line of support tips that reach out to other support tips inside a little two-sided box. In translucent resin I would not be surprised if it was difficult to read. bird food bathtub fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 18:36
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mrbass21 posted:You could have it generate a mesh and then have it load the mesh and do a 3 point test to make sure the mesh is still accurate. That's what I'm doing now, but I'm supposed to hand this thing off to a high school history teacher. I'm trying to make it as future-proof as possible, even if that means prints take ages. I figure a 49-point bed probe before every print, while slow AF, is going to at least ensure the printer knows how screwed up the bed has gotten for years to come. IDK. Feels like I'm giving the guy a broken castoff, no matter how hard I work to make it bombproof.
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Feb 6, 2024 18:39
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cruft posted:That's what I'm doing now, but I'm supposed to hand this thing off to a high school history teacher. I'm trying to make it as future-proof as possible, even if that means prints take ages. I figure a 49-point bed probe before every print, while slow AF, is going to at least ensure the printer knows how screwed up the bed has gotten for years to come. this is why i don't sell or give away my old printers unless i loudly shout "NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED" about six thousand times
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Feb 6, 2024 18:41
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Deviant posted:ugh, fine, but it's such a pain in the rear end. It's like an inch by .5inch The thing with the cones is its way less of a pain then trying to eyeball it. Under/over exposure present the same way, and cones are programmatic Run it on what you think is appropriate. If it doesn't stick to the build plate up your base exposure, then based on fail/pass sides of the test, raise or lower your exposure and try again
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Feb 6, 2024 18:42
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Deviant posted:this is why i don't sell or give away my old printers unless i loudly shout "NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED" about six thousand times If I shout that at myself, will you give me your Mk3?
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Feb 6, 2024 18:42
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Deviant posted:I am at the end of my rope with this Mono X. This seems like an obvious ask, but compare those settings to the settings here? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/htmlview?pli=1#gid=1882856213 I'm using the relevant settings on the Saturn S and now my only failures are picking something that looks good in whatever color choice. I still dislike the post-processing compared to my FDM prints though.
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Feb 6, 2024 18:44
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Speaking of firmwares and so on, I've been meaning to get around to finding a version of or potentially compiling Marlin to toss on my Ender 3 S1 to get rid of the host action commands nag in Octoprint. Is that a pretty straightforward process? I'm going to go poke around their documentation later but would be interested in hearing if there are any common gotchas. Plus it looks like I can just use the Pi to flash the firmware so that's fun. Also, what's the go to platform for sharing more functional natured prints? I don't have an issue with Thingivese but it looks like it's mostly tchotchkes and other doodads of little note. RUM hack posted:no, not really. if you want a machine that is engineered and streamlined to within an inch of its life, that you plonk down on your desk, power it on, and never ever have to think about how its doing what its doing. and then can take it into the bambu store in town when it breaks? like, a machine you buy for your aging parents? no, there isn't really a equivilent in the consumer/hobbyist space. (maybe there is at a pro/industrial level? my only experience is with the local hackerspaces form 3+, which is a £2.5k resin printer which is pretty astonishingly good) Oh they have physical stores? That's wild. I'm not used to tech brands having, you know, actual stores. iirc back home they're actually getting a second Apple store in the next few years after wither having either none or 1 for most of my life. poo poo, we're getting a Microcenter here sometime soon-ish and I don't know what I'm going to do with myself when it happens. But yeah, I was angling more towards "generally well put together hardware and software with minimal faffing about (and maybe an occasional fire for giggles)". Good to know.
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Feb 6, 2024 19:11
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Warbird posted:Oh they have physical stores? That's wild. that was part of the analogy, they don't have physical stores (though you can get basic support at Microcenter if you buy one there)
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Feb 6, 2024 19:30
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Warbird posted:Speaking of firmwares and so on, I've been meaning to get around to finding a version of or potentially compiling Marlin to toss on my Ender 3 S1 to get rid of the host action commands nag in Octoprint. Is that a pretty straightforward process? I'm going to go poke around their documentation later but would be interested in hearing if there are any common gotchas. Plus it looks like I can just use the Pi to flash the firmware so that's fun. For the Ender S1? https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 But yeah, there are plug-ins that let you flash printer firmware over USB with Octoprint, caveat is make sure you read the plug in documentation and be careful. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 20:02
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Warbird posted:
Would LOVE a site that was strictly for functional prints. That would be cool as hell.
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Feb 6, 2024 20:18
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Okay, so this was done @ 2.2s:  I'm only 39 and I had loving Lasik, so i don't know how anyone reads the text. But I have a good success calibration cone and a partially complete failure calibration cone, so less exposure? Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 20:52
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That looks like different resin from the translucent stuff in the previous pictures. Are you switching resins?
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Feb 6, 2024 21:01
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bird food bathtub posted:That looks like different resin from the translucent stuff in the previous pictures. Are you switching resins? This is the Fast Grey I was originally using and want to use. The blue was a test to see if it was a resin problem (the gray bottle was a skosh old).
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Feb 6, 2024 21:02
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@warbird printables was created because thingiverse sucks. bambu had “thangs” i think. none of them ban decorative prints though (vs functional)
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Feb 6, 2024 21:09
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mewse posted:@warbird printables was created because thingiverse sucks. bambu had “thangs” i think. none of them ban decorative prints though (vs functional) I think printiables was what I was trying to remember thank you. I'm half tempted to try and make a site catered to functional prints (with provided sources required for remixing) but I have enough on my plate as is. Some Pinko Commie posted:For the Ender S1? Perfect, thanks. I'll have to go sort out what SOC I have but I wouldn't be surprised if they have that process documented as well. Warbird fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 21:12
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Warbird posted:Speaking of firmwares and so on, I've been meaning to get around to finding a version of or potentially compiling Marlin to toss on my Ender 3 S1 to get rid of the host action commands nag in Octoprint. Is that a pretty straightforward process? I'm going to go poke around their documentation later but would be interested in hearing if there are any common gotchas. Plus it looks like I can just use the Pi to flash the firmware so that's fun. The hardest part IMO is more knowing what you have and setting it up the first time. What board version? What drivers do you have? Do you have filament runout detection? What pins are they on? Does the runout sensor see a high or a low as runout? Etc etc. Actually compiling and installing is pretty easy, but the initial information gathering and configuring can be a bit of a curve.
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Feb 6, 2024 21:29
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mewse posted:@warbird printables was created because thingiverse sucks. bambu had “thangs” i think. none of them ban decorative prints though (vs functional) bambu's is Makerworld, which has actually been pretty decent for the functional stuff I make (basically just pegboard accessories and whatever one-off replacement parts I make that I think someone out there might want eventually) -- I get a lot more visibility there than on Printables, and I've been able to accrue enough reward points there for one $40 gift certificate and halfway to a second
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Feb 6, 2024 21:37
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   aaaaand paydirt. at least I know that's dialed in now. Deviant fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 21:46
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Warbird posted:Is my rough read that Bamboo stuff tends to be the rough "Apple" equivalent in the 3DP space more or less on point? Also the A1's (not the minis) are under recall and can't be purchased. Their hardware is very affordably priced. Their filament is too expensive even with the customer discount, so that's kind of Apple-y. They also can't keep filament in stock.
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Feb 6, 2024 22:42
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Deviant posted:
Awesome! Next step is to start with a small test print. Grab some random miniature before you go whole hog. Less resin used if it goofs, but also a lot less forces involved vs filling the whole build volume in 1 go
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Feb 7, 2024 00:03
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w00tmonger posted:Grab some random miniature before you go whole hog. Please don't tell people to grab my groin.
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Feb 7, 2024 02:28
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mrbass21 posted:The hardest part IMO is more knowing what you have and setting it up the first time. What board version? What drivers do you have? Do you have filament runout detection? What pins are they on? Does the runout sensor see a high or a low as runout? Etc etc. I don’t think the warning nag message bothers me quite enough to do all that. Hell, I was vaguely intending to do Kilpper once Microcenter opens and I can get the screen doohickey so I may wait until then. I fully expect it to be an order of magnitude more of a pain in the rear end.
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Feb 7, 2024 03:20
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Warbird posted:I don’t think the warning nag message bothers me quite enough to do all that. Hell, I was vaguely intending to do Kilpper once Microcenter opens and I can get the screen doohickey so I may wait until then. I fully expect it to be an order of magnitude more of a pain in the rear end. If it helps at all, I’m using a very old Dell tower as my “pi” board and using my stock 4.2.2 board and kipper is so much better. Both for tweaking and usage. Was very worth it when I was very against it. I probably wouldn’t have bought a pi for it, but recycling an old PC that’s doing nothing? You son of a bitch, I’m in.
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Feb 7, 2024 03:28
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One of these days I need to find/make a “case” for the pi4 I have dangling off the side of the printer that can screw in. I haven’t moved the few I’ve glanced at so far. Shouldn’t be too hard as the aluminum whatsits are a standard size so I can use the tee-nuts or whatever they’re called to hook into them.
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Feb 7, 2024 04:12
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Ok, X1C with AMS and printing ASA with HIPS support is totally cheat mode. Well it should be. That's the combination that Stratasys machines have been using for thirty years
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Feb 7, 2024 07:53
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Sagebrush posted:Well it should be. That's the combination that Stratasys machines have been using for thirty years There's just a *tiny* cost difference between a Stratasys and a Bambu.
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Feb 7, 2024 07:57
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ImplicitAssembler posted:There's just a *tiny* cost difference between a Stratasys and a Bambu. And Bambu Studio can do a lot that GrabCAD Print just cannot which is hilarious. Simple things like layer pauses to insert a nut or bushing requires you to pay even more for another slicer. Just incredible. Warbird posted:Also, what's the go to platform for sharing more functional natured prints? I don't have an issue with Thingivese but it looks like it's mostly tchotchkes and other doodads of little note. Speaking of, GrabCAD library is kind of that, but you should be sharing STEP files not STLs because folks actually use these for design and assemblies. https://grabcad.com/library
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Feb 7, 2024 13:31
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Oh perfect, I was meaning to go ask what the CAD version of source code was over in the other thread. I need to go export that and toss it on my stuff on printables. Thanks!
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Feb 7, 2024 14:35
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Warbird posted:Oh perfect, I was meaning to go ask what the CAD version of source code was over in the other thread. I need to go export that and toss it on my stuff on printables. Thanks! Sure! And there’s a few options for that. STEP is an interchange format that’s…just OK. The best thing to include is the native CAD file. For Fusion, that’s a .f3d file. For Onshape, it’s a link to the document that anyone can copy to their account. SOLIDWORKS is an .SLDPRT file (if sharing an assembly, pack and go a zip file of the assembly, the .SLDASM file isn’t sufficient). 3DEXPERIENCE stuff would be a .3DXML. The next best option if you don’t want people up see the design history for some reason. The next best option for Onshape and SOLIDWORKS is exporting a Parasolid file, that’s a .x_t or .x_b. These have imported fine into Fusion as far as I’ve tested. The reason behind the Parasolid file is because a STEP doesn’t have *exactly* the designed geometry. It’s good enough for “hole in rectangle” parts but as soon as you get into fine detail and compound fillets, it’s a bit of a gamble on accuracy. So if I’m sharing something online that I’ve made in SOLIDWORKS, I’ll share both the SLDPRT or x_t and a STEP file. If it’s Fusion, the F3D and a STEP file, and so on.
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Feb 7, 2024 15:26
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NewFatMike is technically correct (the best kind of correct), but I think the vast, vast majority of folks share the STEP file if they share anything other than the stl. However, no one's gonna get angry if you provide more options.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:00
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Parasolids are best for accuracy, yeah. But for 99% of 3d printing cases the STEP file is fine.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:16
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Currently printing the printable pieces for an MPCNC because I got that tinkering itch again and I wanna learn a new thingy.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:21
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