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Those are some wild ideas, I've read about electroplating prints but never actually done it so no idea which things I've seen are good or not, but I'm very interested to hear about your results.
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Feb 9, 2024 08:38
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I've watched and/or been recommended several videos from HEN3DRIK on YouTube about electroplating 3d prints and man I really want to try it but that's just more chemicals and stuff for me to buy. https://www.youtube.com/@hen3drik/videos Also that would take a lot of trial and error for me to figure out how much to undersize something to compensate for the additional thickness that comes from plating.
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Feb 9, 2024 08:54
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Just picked up a whambam smooth Found this cool circuit board coaster on a patreon and threw them on the printer last night Hard to capture how smooth/shiney this is https://i.imgur.com/kifkYo5.mp4 https://imgur.com/a/9cdM1hQ edit : I actually have a PEX plate, not PEI, not sure how I messed that up. mattfl fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Feb 9, 2024 |
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Feb 9, 2024 14:08
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I scuffed up my Wham Bam PEI plate to improve adhesion as instructed but that means my prints get a lot of scratch marks transferred to them on the plate side. Kinda disappointed tbh
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Feb 9, 2024 14:18
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Tiny Timbs posted:I scuffed up my Wham Bam PEI plate to improve adhesion as instructed but that means my prints get a lot of scratch marks transferred to them on the plate side. Kinda disappointed tbh That's weird because I did the same and there are 0 scratch marks on these prints.
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Feb 9, 2024 14:22
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mattfl posted:Just picked up a whambam smooth PEI plate for my Bambus. Have been printing on the textured plate forever and forgot how nice of a finish the smooth plate can give. Do you have a link to the exact plate you used?
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Feb 9, 2024 17:01
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Hey thread. New owner of a Bambi A1 mini w/AMS lite. New to 3d printing entirely. It was a gift for my 8 year old, so we’re learning together. Is there a good crash course on learning how to use this guy/adjust settings per print/made models? I’ve printed a few basic things but still need to quick crash course myself so I know what I’m doing. I like YouTube but reading excellent tutorials also works for me. I’m pretty technical so I prefer in depth rather than surface stuff. Also wondering if anyone has recs for baby’s first prints that are functional for me or fun for an 8 year old. And wondering where is a good place to purchase filament.
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Feb 9, 2024 17:23
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Hey thread. New owner of a Bambi A1 mini w/AMS lite. New to 3d printing entirely. It was a gift for my 8 year old, so we’re learning together. https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/shopping/bambu-lab-is-recalling-every-a1-3d-printer-don-t-use-them-until-you-read-this/ar-BB1hMm2Y
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Feb 9, 2024 18:37
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lament.cfg posted:https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/shopping/bambu-lab-is-recalling-every-a1-3d-printer-don-t-use-them-until-you-read-this/ar-BB1hMm2Y They've got the A1 mini, which isn't under the recall
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Feb 9, 2024 18:51
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lament.cfg posted:https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/shopping/bambu-lab-is-recalling-every-a1-3d-printer-don-t-use-them-until-you-read-this/ar-BB1hMm2Y Thank you, but the A1 mini that I have is not included in this recall. Standard size A1 only.
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Feb 9, 2024 18:51
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Also wondering if anyone has recs for baby’s first prints that are functional for me or fun for an 8 year old. And wondering where is a good place to purchase filament. There are a number of 'flexi' prints that are incredibly simple and easy to print, which sounds like a nice place to start. (The ones that look like a 2D image from top down, the 'articulated' models can be more sensitive to curling and adhesion issues.) Apart from that, depending on what games the kid likes, you might be able to print out some stuff from them, or giant 10x scale Lego pieces, etc. Example: https://www.printables.com/model/804-flexi-raptor https://www.printables.com/model/46241-flexi-rex-with-stronger-links On the paid spectre, I'm a huge fan of Tippi Tree (12 bux): https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-tippi-tree-original-tabletop-stacking-game-141352 I've brought my set to a bunch of social get togethers and etc, and people really love it. Great as a quick 2-3 round game as you're waiting for stragglers to arrive. It's reverse jenga, kinda. Very simple to print, you might need to make some tiny 1x1 cm supports depending on how your overhangs are, but it's a really cool showcase of a game designed for 3D printing. There's also some models for a 50% scale one where your printer can probably whack out an entire set in a day. (You could easily tweak the pieces and make your own together with your kid too.)
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Feb 9, 2024 19:05
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Listerine posted:Do you have a link to the exact plate you used? Sure https://www.whambamsystems.com/collections/frontpage/products/258-x-258-flexi-plate-with-pre-installed-pex-build-surface
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Feb 9, 2024 20:18
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mattfl posted:Sure That's PEX, slight difference. I found PEX was shinier than PEI. Never had scratches from scuffing like mentioned earlier, then again I scuffed with 6K sanding sponges.
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Feb 9, 2024 20:35
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deimos posted:That's PEX, slight difference. I found PEX was shinier than PEI. Never had scratches from scuffing like mentioned earlier, then again I scuffed with 6K sanding sponges. Ah poo poo my bad, I got PEI and PEX mixed up, I'll edit my original post.
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Feb 9, 2024 20:36
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Thanks to whoever mentioned the funky print beds. I grabbed a two-sided one for 15€ and the grey triangle one (which has PEI on the other side) on sale for 9€. https://i.imgur.com/Gq5vIQO.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/5tk0Ddd.mp4 Sweeeet. edit: btw, is there something like timg for videos?
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Feb 10, 2024 00:04
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HamburgerTownUSA posted:I've watched and/or been recommended several videos from HEN3DRIK on YouTube about electroplating 3d prints and man I really want to try it but that's just more chemicals and stuff for me to buy. fortunately acid copper plating thickness is relatively straightforward to calculate, I’ve seen 0.001” per hour cited for an amperage that doesn’t rush things and puts a nice shiny deposit down that won’t need additional polishing after it’s done in the bath. this actually lets you “dial in” very tightly-toleranced fit-ups without needing the usual specialized machinist tooling like straight reamers; i wanna build another steam/compressed air engine, which should actually work decently with plated resin parts, and i ought to be able to undersize the piston-cylinder parts slightly and then plate as needed until i get a fit i’m happy with. what does get a little stickier is how electroplating deposits are heavier at edges/corners and thinner on flats, getting more exaggerated the thicker the plating is, and additionally varies based on proximity to the sacrificial anode. doesn’t really matter for anything i’d do, i’m not trying to fabricate teeny little MEMS devices or w/e. and there are process improvements you can implement if you wanna go hard enough, for ex you can slowly rotate the cathode mandrel with a low-RPM motor + slip-ring to transmit the current, so the distance to the anode (and plating thickness) gets averaged out across the entire part this is all very down the road, though, i’ll be happy with some cool-looking parts for now
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Feb 10, 2024 00:21
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That metal plated Mando helmet (and other things) look really cool but holy hell the chemicals I need to keep around for that. Makes resin printing and those Chinese laser engravers that just hang out just 'laserin seem like baby safe toys comparatively (I still want to do it if I ever get the garage area set up as a workshop)
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Feb 10, 2024 00:37
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Phrozen Arco. Seeing ads and some pre-order stuff for it. Anyone have thoughts?
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Feb 10, 2024 01:17
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I've been sort of considering getting a 3D printer for a long time now, and I'm finally at the point where I'm really considering pulling the trigger. After reading the OP, and browsing the past 10ish pages, I'm kind of settling on the P1S. I'm posting here mainly to see if there's any flaws with my logic, or if there's anything else I've failed to consider for this. My main use for this would be hobby printing for fun, basically anything including smaller stuff like tabletop minis and other modeling pieces. That said, I'm not super serious into anything, so I think an FDM printer should be good enough when it comes to resolution on the smaller stuff. The printer will most likely reside in my office, and at the moment I don't really have a plan for ventilation. It sounds like the P1S will be nice because:
I'd most likely be printing from Linux, and it looks like their software supports that, so I think I'm fine there. I was also heavily swayed by this comment: Some Pinko Commie posted:If the Bambulab is in your price range, just get that. gently caress Creality unless you want to always tinker. I certainly can tinker and work on a printer, but I've got enough other stuff occupying my time that minimizing that sounds really nice. One concern I had after watching a review on it is the cloud services. Does anyone know whether it can work without cloud connectivity? I'm not super paranoid about it, but will it work if my internet goes out, or Bambu suddenly goes belly up? Are there any other considerations I should make before buying something like this?
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Feb 10, 2024 01:27
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pseudorandom posted:One concern I had after watching a review on it is the cloud services. Does anyone know whether it can work without cloud connectivity? I'm not super paranoid about it, but will it work if my internet goes out, or Bambu suddenly goes belly up? Yup, it's got a LAN mode that you can use instead. Also the printer does have a replacable carbon filter inside. You're still going to smell the maple syrup scent of PLA if you're sitting next to it, though. Edit: I strongly recommend getting the combo unit with the AMS if it's in-budget. You don't have to be doing multi-colour prints for it to be valuable, either. Just being able to load up two of the same roll with auto-switchover is handy, or having a couple of different material options always ready to go is incredibly useful. (plus it makes starting prints remotely extremely convenient) Snackmar fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 01:38
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pseudorandom posted:I've been sort of considering getting a 3D printer for a long time now, and I'm finally at the point where I'm really considering pulling the trigger. After reading the OP, and browsing the past 10ish pages, I'm kind of settling on the P1S. I'm posting here mainly to see if there's any flaws with my logic, or if there's anything else I've failed to consider for this. Printing PLA or PETG, you’re probably fine, but you still don’t want to be in the same room with the P1S if printing ABS. PLA wants as much cooling as you can get, so ideally you’d want to leave the door open and take off the glass top (or print a riser), but I’ve also printed without doing any of that and it was fine. Lastly, minis are tough with FDM. As long as you know you aren’t going to get resin quality, the P1S gives great quality… for an FDM printer. You’ll need to play with settings and likely slow all the speeds down, but I printed a mini I never thought I’d ever be able to remove supports from without braking it.
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Feb 10, 2024 01:48
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Elegoo does pretty well on their fdm printers. It's about 50 bucks cheaper than the k1max, but the extras and add ones put it out of my range when I start looking at the multicolor print stuff. Also, not a fan of having to use their spools. Granted, they are refillable and you aren't tied to strictly their filament, I'm not fond of having to not use some of the other filaments I already know and like. I'm not grabbing one now, but I might in a year or two.
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Feb 10, 2024 02:10
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ilkhan posted:Phrozen Arco. Seeing ads and some pre-order stuff for it. Anyone have thoughts? Looks like a babmbu competitor. Hard to say till it's a really in the wild. I've heard good things about phrozen resin printers, but apparently there supply chain is kind of a pain in the rear end if you need to get replacement parts for anything on North america. I think it will largely come down to price/performance, but definitely don't pre-order a printer nowadays unless you have a ton of faith in the company to make a good one (and even then)
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Feb 10, 2024 02:21
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I've had a couple of Phrozen resin printers, and I found them to be generally adequate. They didn't do anything that your average Anycubic or Elegoo machine couldn't, and they cost more. As tempting as it is to go all in on the Arco's early bird pricing, it's still a Kickstarter project and I'd kind of like to... y'know, see one exist and print before I make any decisions. Phrozen is also talking about stuff like a proprietary slicer and their own 3D model platform, and the community is in need of exactly neither of those things.
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Feb 10, 2024 02:29
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Phrozens are the only hobbyist/prosumer-tier LCD resin printers that are widely-used by dental labs. They're the starting point I always recommend to small labs or independent techs looking to get into digital dental stuff. You don't need to print nightguards or surgical guides or ceramic-filled digital crowns, granted, but it's a useful indicator of them being generally well-regarded and supported by people who use 3D printing as an essential part of a more involved manufacturing environment that pays the bills. e: speaking of ceramic printed crowns, this stuff is loving crazy and is kinda taking the dental tech field by storm: https://rodin-3d.com/product/rodin-sculpture/ Just absurdly strong and hard-wearing stuff, over 60% ceramic filler, FDA-approved for use as a medical device, and you can stain and glaze it like you would a traditional PFM or zirconia restoration (i.e. the ones you have to mill from a block of material using a $30k 5-axis dental CNC mill). and you can print it on a $500 printer, no problem. It's also $1200 CAD a litre, but that's justifiable when you can turn that into 100 long-term temporary crowns and bridges or whatever. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 04:33
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Phrozens are the only hobbyist/prosumer-tier LCD resin printers that are widely-used by dental labs. They're the starting point I always recommend to small labs or independent techs looking to get into digital dental stuff. You don't need to print nightguards or surgical guides or ceramic-filled digital crowns, granted, but it's a useful indicator of them being generally well-regarded and supported by people who use 3D printing as an essential part of a more involved manufacturing environment that pays the bills. I'm pretty drunk right now so I'm considering getting this poo poo and replacing all my teeth with printed teeth.
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Feb 10, 2024 04:52
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What colors do they offer.
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Feb 10, 2024 05:17
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pseudorandom posted:I've been sort of considering getting a 3D printer for a long time now, and I'm finally at the point where I'm really considering pulling the trigger. After reading the OP, and browsing the past 10ish pages, I'm kind of settling on the P1S. I'm posting here mainly to see if there's any flaws with my logic, or if there's anything else I've failed to consider for this. When you say table top minis what scale are you talking specifically? You can print larger models pretty well with low and slow approach, but get too small and it can be low quality looking without switching to resin printers.
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Feb 10, 2024 06:34
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Phrozens are the only hobbyist/prosumer-tier LCD resin printers that are widely-used by dental labs. They're the starting point I always recommend to small labs or independent techs looking to get into digital dental stuff. You don't need to print nightguards or surgical guides or ceramic-filled digital crowns, granted, but it's a useful indicator of them being generally well-regarded and supported by people who use 3D printing as an essential part of a more involved manufacturing environment that pays the bills. tiny
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Feb 10, 2024 06:40
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finally you'll achieve cost parity with games workshop
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Feb 10, 2024 06:42
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bird food bathtub posted:When you say table top minis what scale are you talking specifically? You can print larger models pretty well with low and slow approach, but get too small and it can be low quality looking without switching to resin printers. I don't DISagree but, you can get it done with some tuning if you'd rather just deal with slightly lower resolution minis than resin logistics. 
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Feb 10, 2024 06:45
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hark posted:I'm pretty drunk right now so I'm considering getting this poo poo and replacing all my teeth with printed teeth. honestly, it's not a good trend for patients, they're absolutely not as durable or long-lasting as a traditional zirconia/pfm crown, but people are selling them as equivalent and charging what they would for zirc, when it lets them turn a restoration out in 1/5 the time. it lets labs crunch more cases without big equipment expenditures or hiring more staff, and it lets solo lab techs on a shoestring budget access a whole class of crown and bridge restoration they were completely shut out of until this stuff got FDA approval a year or two back, but the outcome is going to be much worse across the board. it also doesn't have a long history of established use so we don't actually know the realistic lifespan of a permanent crown or bridge. people are also making a lot of restorations that fail very quickly because they don't know how to design for the material, where you can use it and where it'll fail if you do, etc. Sculpture specifically has mediocre tensile strength (for a tooth material, incredible by 3d printed part standards) so people making big bridges, full-arch ZIBs, etc find that they crack in half after two weeks of use. and that big time fuckin sucks when it's just been installed permanently, anchor teeth reduced to stumps to mount the bridge, etc. Pac-dent just released RODIN TITAN, a softer but much tougher version that's intended for bridges and full arches, denture parts, etc. and it only took a whole bunch of people with failed dental restorations across a span of several months-to-years to get formulated! my lab isn't using them as permanent restorations, just as long-term temps when people are waiting for implants or grafts to heal. and for that they're great, they're way better than the previous temp options, so why not. but yeah digital dentistry is bad news for patients in almost every way, wrt outcomes and the longevity of the restorations. get stuff done in the old ways if you can possibly swing it I should bring more of the crazy dental resins around to this thread, we have some really neat stuff that hobbyists will never encounter Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 07:11
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Javid posted:I don't DISagree but, you can get it done with some tuning if you'd rather just deal with slightly lower resolution minis than resin logistics. It's not bad for FDM, but it's still kinda crappy compared resin.
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Feb 10, 2024 07:17
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if you're doing tabletop miniatures or scale models I think a resin printer is basically non-negotiable. FDM can kinda-sorta do a kludgy job of it, maybe even acceptable for large multi-print models, but at tabletop scale the results are always gonna be pretty awful alongside a commercially-manufactured model or a resin printed equivalent. but resin can easily go toe-to-toe with injection-molded or resin-cast models wrt detail.
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Feb 10, 2024 07:20
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bird food bathtub posted:When you say table top minis what scale are you talking specifically? You can print larger models pretty well with low and slow approach, but get too small and it can be low quality looking without switching to resin printers. I was thinking roughly the size of little green army men. Maybe a tad smaller if possible? I'm not currently involved in anything that really uses them, so I don't have any real specifics. Most just thinking if I could print something acceptable for D&D, or practicing painting. The only other potential case would be maybe HO scale, but I've just assumed that would be too small for FDM so I haven't really been counting that. I've got a ton of little hobbies and crafts, so not doing minis isn't a deal breaker, it's just one use I'd want to consider. I certainly will lust after the resolution of a resin printer, but having to figure out that level of ventilation and waste disposal sound like more than I really want to deal with right now. pseudorandom fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 07:31
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It's not bad for FDM, but it's still kinda crappy compared resin. Here's a large mini I did on my X1 when I got it, compared to a resin printed mini.  It's fine for larger creatures, but once you drop into medium pc sizes, you do end up with a large drop in renderable details. Fine for a lot of use cases, probably not to give to a friend who enjoys painting minis.
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Feb 10, 2024 11:00
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great minis for the friend who doesnt thin their paints
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Feb 10, 2024 11:13
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withak posted:What colors do they offer. they have the usual tooth shades plus bleach, iirc like 16 shades of off-white to tobacco-yellowed to suit the patient. the staining and glazing is where you can breath a lot of life and anatomical detail into stuff. you can also print the gums + teeth as a single unit and then stain the gingiva flesh-coloured so you can simulate the whole kit and caboodle with a single solid print. never seen anybody get weird with the colour, though, i know they make blue and purple and orange etc shades…
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Feb 10, 2024 11:44
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Are y’all FDM printing with 0.2mm nozzles? I haven’t been able to get even really acceptable results with a 0.4mm nozzle for minis, though it works pretty well for terrain.
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Feb 10, 2024 12:52
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I have only used 0.4 so far
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Feb 10, 2024 13:11
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