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Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

withak posted:

Ablative floor surfaces are best for office chairs.

Once again the Defiant proves why it's the best ship in the fleet.

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Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

mutata posted:

Get better casters for your chair.

This, get some nicer ones like the rollerblade style that are not hard plastic. Rolls better and doesn't damage the wood floor, or rugs, or at least not noticeably so over the last couple years.

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



One of my two whole house gfcis trips when it rains sometimes. Annoyingly it happens to be the circuit the fridge is on, as well as some outdoor lighting. I've been gradually disconnecting stuff from the outdoor part of the circuit to try to diagnose where the problem is exactly. Problem is it can take weeks between incidents and the only indicator that passively notifies me is the fridge light being out, which isn't great.

I'm looking for something that alerts me more proactively. Presumably something with a battery and a light that comes on when the power is out that I can plug in alongside the fridge or something like that. A noise would work as well. I can't think of how to search for something that works following that logic.

I think my dad used to have an emergency rechargeable flashlight that you could make do this, but it's hard to find among all the other types of emergency lighting.

Some other low tech solution I'm not thinking of also welcome. I don't want to spend a ton of money on this.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Google outlet power failure alarm

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



withak posted:

Google outlet power failure alarm
Thanks, that's exactly the sort of thing! It's like that witchcraft thing where you need to know its true name to have power over it.

NerdyMcNerdNerd
Aug 3, 2004
Anyone know anything about roofs? My knowledge is limited to playing Landlord Super, and I don't think it will help.

We've got a bit of a leak in the ( recently renovated ) bathroom, coming in front the exhaust fan. Which is cool and great and something I'd like to solve before it turns the drywall into damp wall.

It isn't a lot of water, but enough that you want something under it to catch the drops when it's pelting down.

I've done some poking around in the attic crawlspace, but I don't know what to make of what I've found. Here are some shots:



Forgive me the quality of the pictures. Conditions were suboptimal. See, parts of the area up there? They look fine, but I could see some traces of water streaking there. And whatever you call that backing you put over those boards that you nail the shingles on? That black stuff you can see in the spaces behind the boards?



That stuff. In places, it felt damp. And I could feel some wet on the boards. Mind you that I only felt this after we had a lot of rain, but- we just had another storm and we got more water, so something is going on up there.

It isn't the whole side of the roof. Just toward that portion of it, from what I can tell. About half of the rear facing side, although, since I cannot access the front facing side, I cannot say for sure nothing is going on there.

On a second inspection of the space during another storm, I found that some of the nail tips had condensation-like amounts of water gathering on the tips and dripping down.



Here da roof. I think it's about ten years old. It was done by someone with a good reputation- but I don't know how to tell nothing about a roof unless I see daylight coming through. As you can tell by the bent gutter, it had taken a few dings from falling branches over the years.

Aside from that weird bend in the upper right near the peak, and the cracking chimney that I can't find someone to fix, I don't see anything weird going on. There's also a little white mold up there around the wet areas, but not lots and lots, like you'd expect with something that'd been happening a while.

What's causing the water problem? Do I just call a roofer? Do you all think I'm looking at a new roof, a partial repair, etc?

I'm fine with paying up to fix the problem, I'm just way out of my element and don't want to get hosed.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Call the roofer who put your roof on 10 years ago. If they're still in business have em come out and inspect / quote a repair. Normally that should be free, or free enough. You say it's coming in through your exhaust in the bathroom, but I see no evidence of one anywhere in your pictures. You also state that there is condensation? Does your exhaust fan actually exhaust outside or into the attic? If it's into the attic you need to make it exhaust outside instead. That could be the entirety of your problem. If it's close to a wall you can 90-it and install it into the side of your house. If it's not or there isn't a suitable surface, have the roofer do it.

Go around and look under the eaves of your roof, see soffit vents? (Google image search.) Yes? Now go into the attic, are they all covered in insulation? Also yes? Uncover them.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


withak posted:

McMaster has a print catalog that is great for this if you have access to one. It is the size of a bible, I think you have to spend a few thousand a year before they will send you one.

The entirety of their print catalog used to be on their site, but I guess they revamped somewhere along the way. Maybe I'm thinking of Grainger?
You can still page through part numbers once you pick a particular part, but you can't just look at a page any more.


Fake edit: yeah, it's Grainger
https://www.grainger.com/content/general-catalog

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Washing machine repair. Here's the diagrams:
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/supportdetail/product/WFVC6450UC/19#/Tabs=section-spareparts/Togglebox=tb0103/Togglebox=tb0210/

It has leaked water out of the soap drawer for years. Just been a nuisance, until now it's started shorting out the main controls. It's come back after drying out, at least the first couple times. I looked for how to stop the leak, couldn't find a way. Then I tried a hillbilly repair of hammering on the frame to divert the leak water away from the controls. Except then it ran into the door mechanism and shorted that out :doh:. Looking again, it seems maybe there should be gasket in the face plate (0107 on the first diagram) but the diagram doesn't show one. I guess 1- any ideas? Try adding a home made gasket? 2- will a professional service call bring anything new? 3- what's a good washing machine these days?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
3. Don't buy a Korean machine. They're meant to look nice and not last.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Theoretically speaking how bad of an idea is it to use the existing flexi hose on my in-wall dryer vent to plug my leaf blower in and just blast the air through?

I mean, it doesn't look too terrible in there but for some godawful reason in a ground floor w/d installation the vent immediately runs 7 1/2ft vertical before making a 9ft lateral to the exterior wall.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Any suggestions on how to fix a "loose" drain stopper on a newly installed sink/faucet? Delta faucet, model not known but I can look at the box when I get home.

Here's what I mean when I say "loose":
https://i.imgur.com/SawVU4p.mp4

Before you come in and say "you don't have the horizontal pivot rod going through the hole at the bottom of the stopper", I assure you, I do. It might not be apparent in the video, but I was pulling up on it, and the rod IS through the hole. It's just that, near as I can tell, the relative size of the hole on the stopper to the rod is too big, so there's a LOT of wiggle room (literally.)

I found maybe one other person who had this issue:
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/kqix6f/delta_sink_drain_stopper_jiggles_in_place_am_i/

They caved and just ordered the "pop up" version where you just push it in/out. I suspect I might have to do that eventually, but I'm wondering if I don't want to spend money, I can just fill the hold at the bottom of the stopper with some sort of moldable epoxy type of substance, then make a new, smaller, hole in that?

The only other thing I can think is that the pivot rod is also moving too much, which... yeah, I can believe that, because the holes on the vertical connecting trod that connects the pivot rod to the drain stopper are also too big, and there's a lot of play:


All I can think to fix this, aside from the same wacky idea w/ epoxy, is to try and get that spring clamp to be tighter/get a new one/attach it with a nut...somehow (it's not a threaded rod, so...?)

DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Feb 14, 2024

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

What is the problem? That it's loose (stop touching it) or that it doesn't function reliably (in which case yes, fix it)?

E: On second look, why isn't the rod stop screwed all the way into the tailpiece? It looks like its cross-threaded. That could be the issue.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Feb 14, 2024

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Motronic posted:

What is the problem? That it's loose (stop touching it) or that it doesn't function reliably (in which case yes, fix it)?

E: On second look, why isn't the rod stop screwed all the way into the tailpiece? It looks like its cross-threaded. That could be the issue.

I actually did notice the rod stop being bad after taking the picture (pic is from like th4ree days ago) and that's fixed (found it because it was ever so slightly dripping water.)

But yeah, it's just so dang loose. Like...the water from the faucet hitting it sort of causes it to "dance" and move around. I guess it's just annoying, and seems like it shouldn't be like that. I've lived in many places, and never had a bathroom sink with a stopper this loose.

It SEEMS to function fine. Holds water when I pull up on the rod, lets water drain* when I push the rod back down.

*Though it drains very slowly, but I don't see how that's the stopper's fault. At least not because it's loose, I know the stopper impedes flow to an extent, but it would do that if it was loose or not. I'm not sure what's causing it to drain slowly...I guess just because it's only 1 1/4" drain pipe all the way to the wall?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

1 1/4" shouldn't be draining slow, but yeah, I doubt it has anything to do with the stopper.

I get the annoyance - I suppose that's worth fixing all on its own. Sounds like incorrect/incompatible parts. The rod should fit pretty well into the hole on the tail of the stopper. Is is just a sloppy fit in there? I really thought those were all a common trade size - I've never had an issue mixing and matching.

I'd take the rod and the stopper to the hardware store and see what you can match up/see what looks different.

NerdyMcNerdNerd
Aug 3, 2004

H110Hawk posted:

Call the roofer who put your roof on 10 years ago. If they're still in business have em come out and inspect / quote a repair. Normally that should be free, or free enough. You say it's coming in through your exhaust in the bathroom, but I see no evidence of one anywhere in your pictures. You also state that there is condensation? Does your exhaust fan actually exhaust outside or into the attic? If it's into the attic you need to make it exhaust outside instead. That could be the entirety of your problem. If it's close to a wall you can 90-it and install it into the side of your house. If it's not or there isn't a suitable surface, have the roofer do it.

Go around and look under the eaves of your roof, see soffit vents? (Google image search.) Yes? Now go into the attic, are they all covered in insulation? Also yes? Uncover them.

Took your advice and called the roofer. Verdict: no damage.

Ridge vent wasn't as properly cut out as it could have been or might be blocked. The guy seems to think that a lack of sufficient ventilation, combined with gas heat, is leading to the moisture issue. He's going to fix it. And we're getting a proper vent put in soon to keep the moisture issue from getting worse and addressing the mold with some mold spray.

I think I'll wait until after the attic is more ventilated before doing the spraying.

Thanks.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
^^^ I thought the problem was rain water coming in a bathroom vent? Was that condensation all along?

kid sinister posted:

3. Don't buy a Korean machine. They're meant to look nice and not last.

We were considering it, but rather get a miele.

Or maybe this one keeps going. I fabricated a gasket, it helped; now it leaks externally instead of internally -.- Now messing with water pressure and leveling feet.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

LG front loaders are still one of the most consistently recomended, reliable and easy to fix brands of washers. Parts are cheap and available. Don't confuse them with Samsung, which is the polar opposite end of the spectrum with unreliable garbage and a slow, expensive, disastrous parts supply chain.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Buy a Speed Queen, give it to your grandkids.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
And I'm the outlier here with a Samsung washer/dryer set going on 8 years that has been super the entire time.
It was even a refurbished unit of one of the models that was recalled for having the top fly off and injure people during the spin cycle.

If only I had that same kind of great luck with my dishwashers

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

canyoneer posted:

And I'm the outlier here with a Samsung washer/dryer set going on 8 years that has been super the entire time.
It was even a refurbished unit of one of the models that was recalled for having the top fly off and injure people during the spin cycle.

If only I had that same kind of great luck with my dishwashers

"Bad" appliances aren't like 100% failure rate all at the same time. It's higher than average failure rate. It's hard to find and/or expensive parts. It's poor warranty service. Poor technical documentation. It's not having people trained on them/familir with them to hire to work in them out of warranty.

Not every one is going to fail in the first 5 years. But when you have brands that are having 5 year failure rates in double digits there's a problem. A big one. But having non-broken one 8 years later probably does not make you an outlier. If it did these things would have been in a class action lawsuit. Like LG linear compressors.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Wiki says both LG and Samsung are Korean, so I don't know what OP was referring to, but thanks for more details. Cheap pressure gauge says 90 psi, so I think I may be out of fix it *fast* territory. Good to know I guess

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Epitope posted:

Wiki says both LG and Samsung are Korean, so I don't know what OP was referring to, but thanks for more details. Cheap pressure gauge says 90 psi, so I think I may be out of fix it *fast* territory. Good to know I guess

They are both Korean, and yeah.....that's kinda why I was responinding. Its hard to pick a straight up winner for all appliances by brand or country of manufacture. I think LG washer set (or speedqueen if you have the cash - avoid the nerfed top loader with the EPA cycle), and Bosch 500/800 series dishwashers are real commonly at the top for recomendations. But I definitely wouldn't recomend a Bosch or LG pretty much anything else.

I've got an LG fridge and it lost a compressor after 2-3 years. I had a Frigidaire cooktop that needed a gas valve and it turned out that the valves for all 4 burners plus the piping to each burner was one piece, so it cost over $400 when newer and nicer cooktops were in the $600 range (pre pandemic). I had a Kenmore Elite (LG Rebrand) front loading washer back in the day that had the spider brace failure that Samsung still hasn't figured out how to prevent 15 years later. You had the buy the whole tub for $500 and pay over $100 for shipping because it was oversize.

TL;DR All appliances suck. Some suck less.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I got an LG TV, one of their OLED screens and couldn't be happier. Korean companies do electronics alright.

For washers, I'd recommend a used Kenmore/Whirlpool that is 10-15 years old. It'll last you 20 years easily. Speed Queen is definitely up there too. If you're lucky, you can find them second hand as well.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice
Turns out my vacuum cleaner had a height setting for carpets/wood floors and it was at like the middle setting the entire time. Explains why I felt like it wasn't doing a good job, that's a lot more convenient then having to sweep my floor.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Buy a Speed Queen, give it to your grandkids.

I've heard a lot saying this isn't the case anymore

NerdyMcNerdNerd
Aug 3, 2004

Epitope posted:

^^^ I thought the problem was rain water coming in a bathroom vent? Was that condensation all along?

I thought it was rain, too. But I never did find a hole or any kind of source. Neither did he. And the puzzling thing was that we had rain on days that produced barely any drops, if any at all- but other days it was a steadier thing.

Either it's due to a lack of ventilation, or it's a very small and oddly inconsistent leak.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Don’t buy the front loader, because why would you do that to yourself. Otherwise, they are the absolute gold standard of washers. This is also more true with the ones with knobs and buttons.

They’re also the only manufacturer in the industry to offer a 5 year warranty instead of a two. Some of their line has a 7.

I talked to three service guys while doing the research on washers and they all said old Maytag, Speed Queen, whoever was mentioned for a front loader. I’ve still got an old Maytag, but the Speed Queen is coming this summer.

shoeberto
Jun 13, 2020

which way to the MACHINES?
TurqoiseDude has entered the chat

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Just guys being dudes

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

kid sinister posted:

3. Don't buy a Korean machine. They're meant to look nice and not last.

They're completely fine. My Samsung came with a ten-year warranty, by the by.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

devicenull posted:

I've heard a lot saying this isn't the case anymore
I was looking at them a couple years ago, and reviews were all still pretty favorable. My issue was all of their consumer models were strangely small. Like, not gonna fit a comforter small.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Our LG front loaders have been a very good boys for like 8-9 years? The washer did have an issue once at like the 7ish year mark that I had to fix but I swapped circuit boards (got one on ebay for like $60) and that was that.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



3D Megadoodoo posted:

They're completely fine. My Samsung came with a ten-year warranty, by the by.

I’d love to see it, not because I don’t believe you, but because that would be good information to have and share.

Most washers have 1-2 year parts and labor, 3 years on the drum, 5-10 on the motor.

Speed Queen does 3, 5, and 7 year all parts and labor, depending on the model, which was higher than anything I had seen when shopping around.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

I've heard a lot saying this isn't the case anymore

The top load consumer one has an "EPA cycle". It simply doesn't get your clothes clean, it just uses the correct amount of water based on the EPA water usage regs for residential washers. You just put it on a non-default setting each time and it works like the old ones.

Which is also the issue with Speedqueens and always has been: they use a ton of water, a ton of power, and they beat the hell out of your clothes, Yes, front loaders are more complicated, but in general they clean clothes way better with less power and water. Those are really important things to a lot of people. I started messing with high efficiency front loaders because I've had a well and septic for decades. They've come a long way since the first one I bought.

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Don’t buy the front loader, because why would you do that to yourself. Otherwise, they are the absolute gold standard of washers. This is also more true with the ones with knobs and buttons.

Their residential front loaders are very well made also and considered exceptionally reliable.


Dr. Lunchables posted:

They’re also the only manufacturer in the industry to offer a 5 year warranty instead of a two. Some of their line has a 7.

They are not. There are various residential Whirlpool and Maytags that resemble basic models with commercial motors/gear sets that have 5+ year warranties including labor. This one has a 10 year limited. Not sure how long labor is: https://www.maytag.com/washers-and-dryers/washers/top-load-washers/p.3.5-cu.-ft.-commercial-grade-residential-agitator-washer.mvwp576kw.html

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

Dr. Lunchables posted:

I’d love to see it, not because I don’t believe you, but because that would be good information to have and share.

See my washing machine?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



3D Megadoodoo posted:

See my washing machine?

See the warranty

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

Dr. Lunchables posted:

See the warranty

That would've been on the receipt. Dunno if I still have it, considering it's been well over ten years. I guess I can check.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Motronic posted:

The top load consumer one has an "EPA cycle". It simply doesn't get your clothes clean, it just uses the correct amount of water based on the EPA water usage regs for residential washers. You just put it on a non-default setting each time and it works like the old ones.

Which is also the issue with Speedqueens and always has been: they use a ton of water, a ton of power, and they beat the hell out of your clothes, Yes, front loaders are more complicated, but in general they clean clothes way better with less power and water. Those are really important things to a lot of people. I started messing with high efficiency front loaders because I've had a well and septic for decades. They've come a long way since the first one I bought.

Their residential front loaders are very well made also and considered exceptionally reliable.

They are not. There are various residential Whirlpool and Maytags that resemble basic models with commercial motors/gear sets that have 5+ year warranties including labor. This one has a 10 year limited. Not sure how long labor is: https://www.maytag.com/washers-and-dryers/washers/top-load-washers/p.3.5-cu.-ft.-commercial-grade-residential-agitator-washer.mvwp576kw.html

Yeah, that one is 5 year parts and labor. Maytag is the other player in the “commercial grade for the home,” but as far as I know they are the only ones that do. And SQ is the only one offering seven.

But yeah, I did forget about Maytag. Their entire catalog isn’t commercial grade, but they make quality stuff.

e: in general I recommend against front loaders due to the higher amount of cleaning necessary, as well as the possibility of water leaks being much higher. When’s the last time you cleaned your washer or dryer?

Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Feb 16, 2024

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Shooting Blanks
Jun 6, 2007

Real bullets mess up how cool this thing looks.

-Blade



Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but:

A pair of cardinals has taken to attacking a glass door at my apartment. The door goes out to a covered patio. What are my best options for stopping this? So far I've found:

Stop Bird Attack Spray - reviews aren't awesome, and for a glass door I'd probably need a lot.
Bird netting - I'd need to take measurements to see how much I need to fully enclose the patio, but I'm also concerned that one of the birds would get trapped/stuck and I wouldn't find it until it's too late.

I don't want to harm the birds of course, and relocating them isn't an option. I guess I could tape butcher paper or something similar over the glass, but is there another option I'm not thinking of? Any strong opinions on netting vs. spray? Thanks!

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