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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-IjIs4YA-4&t=1s What does your bambu printer send to bambu?
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Feb 14, 2024 22:57
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How does everyone dry their filament? Do most people even dry them? I bought a bunch of inland filament from microcenter (PLA & PLA +) but some of it is leaving strings when it switches to a different color on my AMS Lite. Part of it might have been not having good temps set, but even with stabilized temp and flow I’m still getting some stinging. I did not have this issue at all with the Bambu filament (PLA & PLA Silk) even though I just went with the profiles the RFID chips set.
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Feb 14, 2024 23:26
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Nerobro posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-IjIs4YA-4&t=1s What does your bambu printer send to bambu? It would be good to know what parts of that data are sent when it connects to AWS. Honestly nothing seemed that scary for hobbyists, but I can see how people running a business would get wigged out.
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Feb 14, 2024 23:51
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Nerobro posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-IjIs4YA-4&t=1s What does your bambu printer send to bambu? Well I hope someone at Bambu enjoys a tasteful look at my dong when I get out of the shower.
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Feb 14, 2024 23:57
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greatBigJerk posted:Honestly nothing seemed that scary for hobbyists, but I can see how people running a business would get wigged out. Probably not. But it also means proprietary designs are getting uploaded. If you're printing things that test the edges of legality? If you're printing tools or equipment that might be... questionable. EG: lab supplies. 2a stuff. 8-bit Miniboss posted:Well I hope someone at Bambu enjoys a tasteful look at my dong when I get out of the shower. There are states where that sort of toy is... uh.. heavily regulated or in some cases illegal.
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Feb 15, 2024 00:08
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I just tape a little pic of the Tiananmen Square protest opposite the bed cam
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Feb 15, 2024 00:14
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:How does everyone dry their filament? Do most people even dry them? I use a PrintDry Pro and it has been fabulous. It’s pricier than a dehydrator, but it’s purpose built, has a manual, and some accessories. My experience with Inland PLA is that it is trash but the PLA+ is serviceable, FWIW.
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Feb 15, 2024 00:15
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Tiny Timbs posted:I just tape a little pic of the Tiananmen Square protest opposite the bed cam now, would this make them more likely to target you, or would it make it strip out the photo? who wants to try!
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Feb 15, 2024 00:16
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Questions like this are a large part of why I am completely uninterested in networking my printer.
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Feb 15, 2024 00:29
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Where do I upload this?
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Feb 15, 2024 00:31
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The off brand firmware guys took a look at the logs and data send and said there was nothing nefarious going out the door, just a lot of extra data about everything. They made suggestions on cutting that down, and bambu pushed that in a recent update Lol at a over zealous DA asking mainland China for user records to see who is printing no no things And, it's been well assumed China can see your gcode/stl/camera so the average user, who cares, if you happen to have a printer or 5 in an ip block of an interesting company or gov related entity? Prob shouldn't out it on the Internet then.
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Feb 15, 2024 00:46
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Roundboy posted:The off brand firmware guys took a look at the logs and data send and said there was nothing nefarious going out the door, just a lot of extra data about everything. They made suggestions on cutting that down, and bambu pushed that in a recent update I can assure you that, at least for gov related entities, the 3D printers are absolutely, positively, 100% not connected to the Internet. At least, not the one I was (previously) working for. It made it really difficult to run the US-owned printer for high schools that was the only one they would let us buy (and they made the vendor remove the camera), because the published mechanism to print was "upload an STL to your account on this web server".
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Feb 15, 2024 00:49
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Nerobro posted:Probably not. But it also means proprietary designs are getting uploaded. If you're printing things that test the edges of legality? If you're printing tools or equipment that might be... questionable. EG: lab supplies. 2a stuff. Not gonna lie, I’m fine with people who print illegal or “legal on a technicality” firearm parts being hauled off. If you wanna harm yourself with a 3D printed horse cock replica, go for it. Printing fringe items that put others’ safety at risk ain’t it. NewFatMike posted:I use a PrintDry Pro and it has been fabulous. It’s pricier than a dehydrator, but it’s purpose built, has a manual, and some accessories. Thanks that’s good to know. Ended up going to microcenter cause it’s easier for my kid to pick when she can actually see the material. I ended up getting mostly PLA + and the PLA+ is the ones that are super stringy compared to the others. I might avoid in the future then.
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Feb 15, 2024 02:12
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Is the kobra max series the biggest large format printer under $1k? I wanna get something that can do huge single piece prints relatively well if possible.
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Feb 15, 2024 14:45
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The OP recommendations are a few years old so I’m just gonna ask: Is there a go-to for folks who want a printer that works reliably out of the box or with a few upgrades? Does that exist? I already have several tinkering hobbies (that I’d like to print stuff for!) so I’m hoping there’s something that works and maintains like a workshop tool rather than adding another constant-upgrade-sidegrade-fiddle-with thing to my life. My use case as it stands right now would be 99% things like shims, brackets and tool holders, e.g., https://www.printables.com/model/303345-makita-18v-battery-holder I’m assuming I’d mostly be looking at filament printers and that’s just as good by me cause I’d rather avoid dealing with resin, disposal of resin wash and so on.
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Feb 15, 2024 15:41
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the yeti posted:The OP recommendations are a few years old so I’m just gonna ask: Generally whichever Bambu Lab printer fits your budget has the best overall mix on price, features, and minimization of loving around with it. Maintenance and troubleshooting is nicely documented, too.
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Feb 15, 2024 15:50
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hark posted:Is the kobra max series the biggest large format printer under $1k? I wanna get something that can do huge single piece prints relatively well if possible. While it's getting a little long in the tooth now, the Creality CR10-S5 has a 500 x 500 x 500 build volume. It's popular-ish among Star Wars astromech droid builders because you can print the roughly 18" diameter body sections in one shot.
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Feb 15, 2024 15:52
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Acid Reflux posted:While it's getting a little long in the tooth now, the Creality CR10-S5 has a 500 x 500 x 500 build volume. It's popular-ish among Star Wars astromech droid builders because you can print the roughly 18" diameter body sections in one shot. Is this a really touchy/tinker heavy printer? Cause I have an ender 3 that, while I love, I'm not trying to put that much work into something else just to get it to work
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Feb 15, 2024 16:13
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I've never used one of those myself, but I'm going to guess that it's probably not on the top of the "really great out of the box" machine list. Honestly, I've never had a larger printer that didn't require more fuss than its littler siblings, but I also haven't used any newer (like, released in the last couple of years) ones.
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Feb 15, 2024 17:22
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the yeti posted:The OP recommendations are a few years old so I’m just gonna ask: What’s your budget? Bambu’s are supposed to be great, though I don’t have any hands-on experience. Personally, I love my Prusa MK3S+ (soon to be a MK3.5). I’d say a Prusa can be as trouble free as a Bambu when set up properly, and you can modify it for your specific needs to your heart’s content. A good entry level on the Prusa side is a Mini kit. Yes you have to build it, but in my experience knowing how it went together makes troubleshooting issues that much easier. Also, gummy bears.
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Feb 15, 2024 17:23
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For just a few more dollars over the Prusa Mini kit, you can get a nearly fully assembled Bambu A1 Mini + AMS Lite combo that will let you print in four colors.
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Feb 15, 2024 17:26
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the yeti posted:The OP recommendations are a few years old so I’m just gonna ask: Only regret is that I didn’t get the x1c
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Feb 15, 2024 17:36
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I've got a maintenance question regarding my Neptune 3's bed: The bed is held up by a set of 4 V-rollers connected to a standard piece of extrusion. I've noticed that over time, the rollers wear down channels in their rubber that makes the bed wobble. And a wobbly bed means the auto leveling screws up, cause when it taps the bed, the bed wobbles down, and it thinks it's 'lower' than it really is. Also, with the exact geometry of how the rollers get worn, tightening them with the eccentric nuts does little to stop the wobble, and tends to just make them wear down further and faster. I've replaced the V-rollers on this bed... 3? times now, and I'm starting to question if I'm just loving something up, or if the replacement rollers I bought are poo poo grade rubber, or if I'm just kinda screwed cause of all that weight on a handful of rubber contact points leads to bad times. Maybe because my printer is more of a hobby thing, and I tend to leave it idle for months until my next project? So yeah. Is there a good way to fix this V-roller wear more permanently?
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Feb 15, 2024 17:38
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BadMedic posted:I've got a maintenance question regarding my Neptune 3's bed: For the Ender 3, the standard replacement wheels are POM. They sell polycarbonate wheels as an upgrade that are supposed to be more durable, but I haven't personally tried them.
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Feb 15, 2024 17:44
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the yeti posted:The OP recommendations are a few years old so I’m just gonna ask: I just bought a Bambu a1 mini + AMS lite and I was able to print something out (and it printed well) within 30 or so minutes of taking it out of the box. It’s wonderfully easy to set up and get using. This is less true using other branded filaments, but the filament you buy from Bambu directly, it’s pre-calibrated so you don’t need to gently caress with finding the settings. If you have the AMS, the spool has an RFID chip that auto identifies the filament and puts the settings into the slicer for you.
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Feb 15, 2024 18:44
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I just bought a Bambu a1 mini + AMS lite and I was able to print something out (and it printed well) within 30 or so minutes of taking it out of the box. It’s wonderfully easy to set up and get using. This is less true using other branded filaments, but the filament you buy from Bambu directly, it’s pre-calibrated so you don’t need to gently caress with finding the settings. I've used thousands of non bambu PLA/ABS filaments across probably close to 10 different brands and have never choosen anything other than the Bambu profile or the Generic *filament type* profile and I honestly can't think of any failures I've had. You don't need to gently caress around with finding settings for filaments really.
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Feb 15, 2024 19:02
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mattfl posted:I've used thousands of non bambu PLA/ABS filaments across probably close to 10 different brands and have never choosen anything other than the Bambu profile or the Generic *filament type* profile and I honestly can't think of any failures I've had. You don't need to gently caress around with finding settings for filaments really. I've had a couple spools that benefited from running the manual flow dynamics calibration, but even then that's basically a one-step process of reading the correct K value off the plate
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Feb 15, 2024 19:23
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Similarly, there wasn't a specific profile in cura for the brand of filament I got with the printer, so I just used "generic PLA" which has worked great for whatever PLA/PLA+ I've thrown at it
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Feb 15, 2024 19:28
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Flow calibration is for better corners and fine details, not preventing print failure
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Feb 15, 2024 19:38
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Thanks y’all, will be looking at Bambu for sure 
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Feb 15, 2024 19:59
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Well the local market here is completely saturated with folks dumping Prusa MK3S+ units. I'd been trying to sell mine after getting an X1C, but after weeks of lowballers rather than dump it for cheap (especially since I had the enclosure too, and a tungsten nozzle) I decided to pick up the 3.5 upgrade kit, and the MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade kit (which I'd bought forever ago but never installed) and just keep it along with my Bambu. It'll be interesting to see how it stacks up. I'm still very interested in the Prusa XL but we'll see.
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Feb 15, 2024 22:52
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echoing above sentiments. I tried hard to set up custom filaments and such for inland and other bulk PLA buys, but at the end of the day I have a P1S and there are no auto calibration settings. It all comes down to volumetric speed and cooling. Bambu Basic PLA (And ABS) run all given brands so far. Silk does need some tweaking for me with overhang speeds and cooling, but that is a special case for me. I did make changes to the TPU profile that work awesomely, and that crazy one off buy of 'Nylon PLA' from 3dPrintLife that no other print profile will touch. It all just works.
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Feb 15, 2024 23:12
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P1S, I've never run it on a non-generic profile. PLA+, TPU, ABS, almost always print and play.
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Feb 16, 2024 00:27
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we're experimenting with a new ceramic-filled dental resin that you can use to print permanent dental restorations from, stain and glaze like zirconia/porcelain, etc- rodin titan, priced at a cool $1200 CAD per kilogram. it is easily the worst resin i have ever worked with, lmao. i mean i knew it was at least 60% ceramic filler, but you dont know what that means until you fill a build tray with the stuff   these aren't action shots, this is the resin at rest. it doesn't even level out or drip, it just... sits there. its closer to a gel than a liquid. nothing but failed prints so far, the suction forces are extreme and stuff keeps detaching from the build tray and killing the job. gonna turn the base layer exposure up and slow the retracts down, extend the dwells even longer than they already are, etc. also you can't wash this stuff, immersion in alcohol for more than 5 seconds ruins the colour, lmao. you gotta use compressed air to blast most of the resin off and then use a toothbrush and a dish of IPA to clean the rest off while blotting dry in between brushes. otoh, flexural strength of 170-180 MPa, flexural modulus of 12000-14500 mpa, etc
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Feb 16, 2024 04:38
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Sounds awful/amazing.
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Feb 16, 2024 04:46
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That sounds like one of those things that will be HUGE once the process is nailed down.
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Feb 16, 2024 04:51
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Making Iron Man armor out of teeth!
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Feb 16, 2024 05:20
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AlexDeGruven posted:That sounds like one of those things that will be HUGE once the process is nailed down. it already is, it got FDA approval two years ago and it opened the door to one-man labs with a Phrozen being able to do crown and bridge work where previously it took a $30k 5-axis cnc mill to do the same. they're releasing a 2.0 version with even higher strength and surface hardness, and they also put out a version that's softer but much tougher, so you cna make big bridges and stuff from it without it cracking to be clear, the crowns and bridges it makes are inferior in every way for the end user compared to traditional ways of working, but it's very appealing to small labs on a budget regardless. we won't use it for permanent restorations, just temps people wear for a few months, for which is it much better-suited. (i think ive already posted all this itt a week or two ago, apologies) e: there's definitely a support or two floating around in the tank and i'm dreading filtering the resin, because... it's just, not gonna go, you know? thinking i'll have to heat it up first, maybe put the whole resin tray in a wax burnout oven set to like 40 degrees for a while so it'll actually flow through the paint filter. either that or i'll get a buchner flask and use one of our vacuum pumps to suck the resin thru the filter and not have to rely on gravity Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Feb 16, 2024 |
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Feb 16, 2024 05:21
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Heated vat? If not it's imagine it should help out viscosity somewhat Also, this sory of work definitely makes me think I could moonlight as a dental tech with the right degree w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Feb 16, 2024 |
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Feb 16, 2024 06:19
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the yeti posted:Thanks y’all, will be looking at Bambu for sure +1 for the Bambu - bought a P1S with AMS last November, and it's just unbox, unscrew the shipping brackets, peel off plastic, plug in, pop a roll of filament in, run the auto calibration routine, select your model, and hit print. I've been printing almost nonstop with it the past few months. This is my fourth printer over the course of almost a decade, and it is night and day difference between everything I've had before... poo poo just ~*works*~ and I'm completely flabbergasted at the quality, speed, and strength I'm getting out of this. Someone earlier likened it to the Apple experience, and I think that was an excellent analogy. The only issues I've had were sorting out why the AMS was stopping to retract stuck filament, and that was caused by a tight bend radius I fixed with a printed guide. Additionally, it looks like a PLA filament with abrasive glow in the dark specks that I didn't realize were in there had worn a groove in the AMS feeder on slot 3, which was fixed by printing new sacrificial funnel guides that snapped over top the old ones. This buffer button is the only thing the printer is honestly missing from the get-go imho, and it just makes it easy to disconnect the tubing if the ams filament eed gets stuck: https://makerworld.com/en/models/27398 With regards to the AMS feeder funnel issue, here is what the feeder funnel should look like:  And here's where mine had worn a lateral groove with Inland Steller PLA:  That was enough to cause AMS feed issues, but was an easy fix by printing a few of these and snapping them over top the original funnel: https://makerworld.com/en/models/49581#profileId-51430 Otherwise I've had two prints string because I didn't add supports to floating sections despite the slicer's warnings, and that was 100% on me and an easy fix. I also had a large flat print get kinda boogery on the build plate because it was close to the edge where I had been grabbing the build plate, and a bit of fingerprint oil caused a thumbprint sized bit to not adhere in one spot. Print still finished fine, but there's an ugly stringy splotch in that spot, and the same print worked fine next time around after cleaning the pei build plate with 90% isopropyl alcohol. All that is to say there's still some basic 3d printing stuff you'll still want to learn as you use it, but for the most part it's as simple as uploading your model to bambu slicer (or importing direct from makerworld), and hitting slice, then print. Also, I just want to say how great Bambu Slicer is compared to everything I've used in the past. Granted it's a fork of Prusa Slicer, but it's just so easy to tweak things, split up build plates and projects, and generally work in. Hell, you can even add text to models! Also, for what it's worth -- zero regret not getting the X1C over the P1S
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Feb 16, 2024 17:43
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