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Schiavona
Oct 8, 2008

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I've been making do with a miter saw, circular saw, and hand tools, but I'd like to get a table saw. I have a somewhat small space to work with - what's the current go-to suggestion for a portable tablesaw?

What’s your budget?

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The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Schiavona posted:

What’s your budget?

Flexible but preferably less than $700. It's looking like the DeWalt DWE7491RS might be the best option? Looks like it can be found for $550 around me

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
The Dewalt jobsite saw is great for what it is, and the rack and pinion fence is fantastic.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Get it while it's hot. Lucky for you the lowest price I've seen in a long time dropped today.

https://slickdeals.net/f/17290540-d...iteSearchV2Algo

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




That was the first saw I bought and it was great, and $440 is a really really good deal

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I finally got around to taking pictures of the Appalachian ladderback chairs I built in the Autumn.


Ladderback #1, this one is a Tim Manney design. Made from walnut with a danish cord seat. You can see where I mis-drilled the bottom two side rungs in the back legs and had to plug the holes. I also managed to blow out a piece of the back leg during assembly by hammering one of the rungs in way too hard. Managed to fix it though, a good learning experience. It is fairly comfortable, the back slats could use more curve to them.


Ladderback #2, this is a Jennie Alexander chair. Made from cherry with a shaker tape seat. I think I may have put the top back slat in upside down. I also lost a leg during bent laminating as my laminations were too thick and broke. I didn't have a big enough piece of cherry to re-make the legs using sequentially cut laminations so if you look closely you can see the laminations. The least comfortable of the trio, but still pretty nice to sit in.


Ladderback #3, this is a Brian Bogg's ladderback. Made from walnut with a reed seat. The nicest looking and most comfortable of the three. Also the most complex as every leg splays out in both directions. I saved it for last, and I'm glad I did because it was the most complex, but there was no major headaches. My wife did the weaving for all three seats.

Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Feb 13, 2024

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Bob Mundon posted:

Get it while it's hot. Lucky for you the lowest price I've seen in a long time dropped today.

https://slickdeals.net/f/17290540-d...iteSearchV2Algo

Wow, thanks for this.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

your "worst" chair is nicer than anything I've ever made, lol

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Wow those chairs are incredible

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


psh you guys should see my 3 legged milking stool :smuggo: :smug: :smugdog:

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


jk that chairs look great have you ever designed your own? I bet you could easily do it

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Leperflesh posted:

your "worst" chair is nicer than anything I've ever made, lol

This but everything in the thread

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
Thanks all, the only chair I've "designed" was a low back Maloof chair that I built from pictures. It's not very comfortable, so I've stuck with plans since.

I could probably do a ladderback, I think I have my head wrapped around the angles and stuff, but to my eye I don't think I could really improve the Bogg's chair. It's also so drat comfortable that I know anything I make would likely be less comfortable and not look as good.

anatomi
Jan 31, 2015

Hey folks. I found an old coffee table, "upcycled" and painted ghastly gray by its previous owners.
Gel remover and scraping got most of it but there's still some paint residue in the deep grain.

The surface is very thin oak veneer, so I'm wary of sanding.
Do you know how I might get to the last bit of paint?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

anatomi posted:

Hey folks. I found an old coffee table, "upcycled" and painted ghastly gray by its previous owners.
Gel remover and scraping got most of it but there's still some paint residue in the deep grain.

The surface is very thin oak veneer, so I'm wary of sanding.
Do you know how I might get to the last bit of paint?

Brass wire brush

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I feel like I see end grain chopping boards that have thin strips in the pattern whose grain runs along the board. Are there any issues with this provided they're kept thin? Some are so small I think they'd snap otherwise.

Submarine Sandpaper
May 27, 2007


As someone who uses end grain cutting boards, I've never seen what you're describing and I would expect the swell to cause cracks at the glue if you have random grain direction.

Not to mention the whole reason you want end grain is for edge retention, which to me is all or nothing. Just throw in different wood for patterns

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

They're going to crack regardless, you don't really see any old endgrain cutting boards that aren't like five inches thick with a big external frame and bolts running through them to keep the whole thing intact. Very few of the cutting/charcuterie boards you see at farmers markets and stuff with the cute wood patterns or lasercut poo poo wee put together with any thought to longevity, they'll just fall apart in a couple years but if you really want to they're not hard to glue back together

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 17, 2024

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

You can keep them from coming apart by not letting them get wet. Most people have a hard time not letting their cutting boards get wet regularly but you can do it if you're serious about keeping your expensive cutting board nice for a long time. You can wipe it down with a sponge to clean but you should not put a lot of water on it when you do that, and you should dry it, and if it's not at least an inch thick (or even if it is) always get both sides equally moist so it's less likely to try to warp from one side swelling while the other side doesn't. That warping puts enormous pressure on the glue joints.

Also old-timey endgrain cutting boards were not glued up with titebond III, which is kind of a miracle substance.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
My homemade end-grain cutting board is still going strong a decade after I made it. It's roughly an inch thick, all end-grain maple and walnut, titebond 3. I only ever use one side of it, and only bother washing that side, and haven't had any issues :shrug:


(apologies for the flash photo)

To be clear, the steps Leperflesh describes are certainly not going to hurt the longevity of what you make. They're just clearly not mandatory in all cases.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Even on antique stuff you're more likely to see endgrain splitting across the wood than along the glue line, it's just so much weaker and so much more efficient at slurping up moisture that odds favor it popping *somewhere* eventually. You can rewax it every single time you use it and dab gently with mineral spirits only or maybe just get lucky but i think most likely you'll be much happier regarding them as a consumable you might have to fix or change every so often than some kind of heirloom item

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Feb 17, 2024

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

I feel like I see end grain chopping boards that have thin strips in the pattern whose grain runs along the board. Are there any issues with this provided they're kept thin? Some are so small I think they'd snap otherwise.
You can break a lot of rules of wood movement more or less without consequences if the scale is small enough and/or the glue is strong enough. Like A Wizard of Goatse said, if you don't care or don't know any better, (either or both of which is very likely for any given internet cutting board maker) you can break even more rules of wood movement with consequences that are only apparent after the customer's check clears or the YouTube video has gotten 50K likes.

You could do what you describe with a very thin crossgrain strip and not break any rules of wood movement. That strip would be very fragile and have a relatively weak glue bond to the rest of the board as it would be an endgrain to side grain glue joint. Probably what you have seen is long grain strips glued in, which does break some rules of wood movement but if the endgrain woods are relatively stable like cherry or walnut and the board is less than idk 16" or so you can probably get away with it for some amount of time. Eventually it will almost certainly fail as either the glue bonds break or the wood next to the glue bonds gives up from repeated stress, but that might be in 20 years or it might be in 2 months.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
For the record, the guide I followed for learning to do the "drunken checkerboard" pattern for my pictured cutting board? It had long-grain strips between each of the squares. I omitted that for simplicity's sake, since the glue-up was already pushing the limits of what I was capable of back then. It was certainly an aesthetic improvement to have that border effect, but for sure it'd also be a point of weakness.

Blaziken386
Jun 27, 2013

I'm what the kids call: a big nerd
my first ever project was an endgrain cutting board

i kinda hosed up the pattern a little bit when i did it, but i like it. gives it character.
weirdly i remember it being prone to warping when wet when i first made it, but now? rock solid.



it has little rubber feet on the bottom to prevent it from moving on the counter, and for that, it is my favorite cutting board.
...now i want to make another cutting board. gently caress.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


It was plaid pattern boards that I'd seen where I figured it would have been too onerous to cut endgrain strips that thin. I'm working on a basketweave one at the moment where it's all going to be endgrain and about 2" thick - a big reason for doing it myself is I want the board thicker than is commonly offered commercially.

In terms of internet boards I see a lot of them made with oak, and the very first thing I ever read about making them was "don't use oak because the open grain is unhygienic".

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


oak has big pores. so do a bunch of the exotics I get ahold of (Padauk :argh:)

anatomi
Jan 31, 2015

Mederlock posted:

Brass wire brush
Thanks! It worked quite well.

This is what the surface looks like beneath the paint. Am I way off base for thinking that the blushing might be because of excessive sanding?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

They're going to crack regardless, you don't really see any old endgrain cutting boards that aren't like five inches thick with a big external frame and bolts running through them to keep the whole thing intact. Very few of the cutting/charcuterie boards you see at farmers markets and stuff with the cute wood patterns or lasercut poo poo wee put together with any thought to longevity, they'll just fall apart in a couple years but if you really want to they're not hard to glue back together

I have an end grain cutting board made in 1997 or 1998, my parents have the twin that was made for them, both are still whole, mine has started to split at one end recently. Along a glue line.

e: I do wash mine with water and that's probably why it's splitting vs my parents one that's whole still, they don't oil theirs so it's started looking greyish. Both made from pine.

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Feb 17, 2024

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Mine will be massaranduba and maple, based on what was available at the reclaimed wood place. I wouldn't be surprised if the massaranduba dulls knife edges though because it seems incredibly dense. I would have used walnut but by comparison it seems so much more expensive.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

If anyone hasn't read it, Schwarz's Anarchists Design Book is now a 100% free PDF download. This book was my biggest influence in how I like to do woodworking. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2024/02/13/free-download-now-forever-the-anarchists-design-book/

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
It's a fantastic book for the aspiring hand tool woodworker. Plenty of great forms to make as is or tweak for your own use.

I've been meaning to try some of the nailed pieces.

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Fantastic book. The only thing I’ve made that I like (a bookshelf-table thing) is patterned after all of the boarded stuff in there. Love it. Forged nails are cool

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

anatomi posted:

Thanks! It worked quite well.


Yeah brass wire brushes are my go-to scrubbers, I use em for everything

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Have a bunch of long veneer matching to do so I made a quick and dirty straightline veneer cutting jig for the slider:


Works freakin great:


This was on 1/18” white oak, haven’t tried it on thinner stuff yet but I hope it works just as well. This was kind of a proof of concept and only has ~9” of capacity (all I needed for this job anyway) and can’t crosscut and is a bit slow to open/close with the wing nuts. I’ll probably build a larger one in the future based on this:
http://themiracleveneertrimmer.com/

It looks like it uses some clever opposing wedges to lock everything down which would be alot faster and it is open for crosscuts.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


I read half that book today thanks for posting it

HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?
Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top.

After the first coat dried I went back and there were depressions in the wood where the pyramids were. I would expect some slight marring of the finish, but there were depressions in the top, which was only on the pyramids before the finish was applied.

Is this just because this is soft wood? Kind of annoying.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

HappyHippo posted:

Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top.

After the first coat dried I went back and there were depressions in the wood where the pyramids were. I would expect some slight marring of the finish, but there were depressions in the top, which was only on the pyramids before the finish was applied.

Is this just because this is soft wood? Kind of annoying.

I use them all the time but I've never had them dent even soft wood.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

HappyHippo posted:

Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top.

After the first coat dried I went back and there were depressions in the wood where the pyramids were. I would expect some slight marring of the finish, but there were depressions in the top, which was only on the pyramids before the finish was applied.

Is this just because this is soft wood? Kind of annoying.

How many pyramids did you use vs how heavy is the table top?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


HappyHippo posted:

Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top.

After the first coat dried I went back and there were depressions in the wood where the pyramids were. I would expect some slight marring of the finish, but there were depressions in the top, which was only on the pyramids before the finish was applied.

Is this just because this is soft wood? Kind of annoying.
Dougfir earlywood is suuuper soft and I imagine that's the issue. You can put a little painter's tape over the tip of the pyramid to cushion it a little bit which usually helps.

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HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?

esquilax posted:

How many pyramids did you use vs how heavy is the table top?

I used all 10, it's not a particularly heavy table top, 17x32", 1" thick. But I don't think they all made contact.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Dougfir earlywood is suuuper soft and I imagine that's the issue. You can put a little painter's tape over the tip of the pyramid to cushion it a little bit which usually helps.

Ok hopefully that's the issue. I can just finish this off without using them, I'll save them for hardwoods.

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