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It might depend on the brand, but even when I used them for a fairly heavy southern yellow pine table top they didn't make any marks. You'd probably be ok even with most softwoods other than what you were using.
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Feb 19, 2024 16:34
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I got them from Lee Valley.
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Feb 19, 2024 16:38
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HappyHippo posted:I got them from Lee Valley. Looking at the pictures, Lee Valley's look pointier than the Home Depot pyramids I use.
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Feb 19, 2024 16:39
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Stultus Maximus posted:Looking at the pictures, Lee Valley's look pointier than the Home Depot pyramids I use. If you have a 3D printer, there are plans for painters pyramids that have ball top on them. I printed a bunch and tried to use them to paint 1x4 and 1x6 trim for my garage, but the boards were too narrow and kept falling off. The pyramids held up just fine (printed in PLA+), but I think are more suited for wider pieces. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777978
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Feb 19, 2024 20:52
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I wanna refinish my mom's tabletop. I think it's solid and stained but the color has not held up well. not quite sure how to go about it though. I'm thinking I can just scrape or sand the top and put some oil and polyurethane on it. she doesn't care if the color is an exact match. any tips or tricks
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Feb 19, 2024 20:57
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PokeJoe posted:I wanna refinish my mom's tabletop. I think it's solid and stained but the color has not held up well. I actually did exactly this but on a way beefier table (check my post history in this thread, it's what brought me here). As long as there's no structural damage it's pretty straightforward. Like you said, sanding it off and then treating the wood again. Make sure you have stuff to fill in any deeper scratches. If those chairs knock apart, I'd advise doing so. I didn't on the chairs that didn't have broken tenons, and that made the sanding WAY harder. It's worth the effort to take them apart imo, and then you can also make sure they're nice and sturdy.
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Feb 20, 2024 02:16
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she doesn't even care about the chairs, just the tabletop itself and it seemed like it would be really easy. I'm thinking about skipping a restain and just using scraping, linseed oil, poly, and paste wax. since she doesn't care if it's a perfect match I'd rather make it more durable. does that theory sound correct? e: checked your history and that's more involved than I planned but it looks like it worked great 👍 PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Feb 20, 2024 |
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Feb 20, 2024 02:29
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fun times in the shop today: the wood i left glued up overnight warped on me because i forgot to alternate grain directions, AND, it developed a nasty crack right in the middle. fun times!! on the bright side, the miter joints i made the other day on a different project came out perfect.
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Feb 20, 2024 04:48
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PokeJoe posted:she doesn't even care about the chairs, just the tabletop itself and it seemed like it would be really easy. I'm thinking about skipping a restain and just using scraping, linseed oil, poly, and paste wax. since she doesn't care if it's a perfect match I'd rather make it more durable. does that theory sound correct?
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Feb 20, 2024 06:07
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hmm poo poo I suspect you are right. the wood is very white under the dye/stain. would the natural yellowing of linseed oil not "darken" it to at least a light yellow? that is probably acceptable in this case as a lot of trim in the house appears to be lightly stained pine to my amateur eye and it wouldn't be too far off as to look out of place
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Feb 20, 2024 06:25
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PokeJoe posted:hmm poo poo I suspect you are right. the wood is very white under the dye/stain. would the natural yellowing of linseed oil not "darken" it to at least a light yellow? that is probably acceptable in this case as a lot of trim in the house appears to be lightly stained pine to my amateur eye and it wouldn't be too far off as to look out of place The only way way to say what the linseed oil will do is to try a sample, but that's kinda hard on a table top. It will more likely make a kinda weird greenish yellow if it has been bleached, but if it's just a white wood in might look okay. You will still get a much more consistent color if you stain it a little, and staining is not hard or scary! e: repair/refinishing is one of those things where it is really hard to go in with a plan because until you strip it and sand it, you really don't know what you're working with. I'd strip it, see what you've got, and move forward from there based on those conditions. I'm also not sure why you want to use linseed oil on this before the poly. It will do no good and might cause problems and will absolutely add 3 days of drying time. It can be used under a finish to add a little depth and richness to the wood, but IMO there are better ways to do that (dye stains) that don't have the disadvantages of adding another type of finish. I think your best bet on this will be a gel stain. It's going to mostly replicate the existing finish in terms of sitting on top of the wood and giving a consistent color. If you want to add another layer of color for depth and consistency, do a water soluble dye stain first. Water stain is super easy to use and forgiving and cheap. WD Lockwood's are great but Transtint dyes are great too and supposedly a bit more lightfast, tho water stains are fairly fade resistant as well. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 20, 2024 |
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Feb 20, 2024 15:35
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Is it even really wood, and not some wood-texture plastic layer that's got wore down?
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Feb 20, 2024 21:57
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It looks like rubberwood to me.Meow Meow Meow posted:
I got this cabinet all done. Cherry case with spalted beech for the doors and drawer. Turned out real nice.   This is just the bottom half, working on the top half which will sit on top now.
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Feb 21, 2024 04:50
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Gorgeous!
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Feb 21, 2024 05:04
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I love those little pulls. That heron is really amazing. The sand shading is really subtle but it really adds a ton of dimension and makes it really work.
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Feb 21, 2024 05:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The only way way to say what the linseed oil will do is to try a sample, but that's kinda hard on a table top. It will more likely make a kinda weird greenish yellow if it has been bleached, but if it's just a white wood in might look okay. You will still get a much more consistent color if you stain it a little, and staining is not hard or scary! I've finished a bunch of stuff w linseed oil before poly and I like the outcome. the extra days drying time does not bother me. BUT I will keep this advice in mind and reassess once I clean the surface of its existing finish. if it does seem to be bleached rubber wood (which I think you might be right) I will likely be staining it. thanks for the info I don't have a lot of factory furniture knowledge
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Feb 21, 2024 23:15
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Made this little coffee table thing:   Made from a discarded couch I found. I think it's douglas fir. The pieces were knotty and not long enough so I ripped them into thirds and glued them up in a butcher block style for the top. I also turned them to reveal the quarter-sawn grain. Things that went well: I like the way it looks. I'm happy with how the splayed legs turned out. I also like the look of the "butcher block" style top and the chamfers underneath. This was my first piece of furniture using mortise and tenon joinery. The splayed joint didn't really add to the difficulty. I finally bought a power tool, a thickness planer. Space is very limited but this fits under my bench. Aside from that and a power drill, everything else was hand tools.The planer definitely cuts down on the most tedious part of using hand tools (thicknessing). Can't wait to use it again for the next project. Things that went not so well: Chopping mortises in softwood sucks. You only get a limited number of test fits because each one damages the joint a little more. Because the edge of the mortises kept tearing out, I haunched both sides of the tenons, which took more time and introduced more potential error. I should probably start going to the lumber yard instead of finding random wood on the road. The glueup for the base didn't go well. It was difficult to square and in the end there were gaps in the joints. I should have done the short aprons first, and then the long aprons after that. Or perhaps, the short aprons, and then chop the mortises for the long aprons. It was tedious to cut the tenons so they didn't collide inside the joint. There are some gaps in the top where the long pieces butt up against each other. I was too lazy to find a way to apply pressure with clamps in that direction. This is something only I will notice. I hate sanding, but I'm not confident enough to just go with a planed/scraped surface. In the future I think I'll try to get most of the way there with the plane/scraper and then go straight to sanding with the final grit. HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 22, 2024 |
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Feb 22, 2024 00:00
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looks good friend. let me give you a softwood tenon tip: make a single hardwood test mortice to sneak up on the tenon as a "master" and you can prevent messing up your piece on test fits. if the tenon fibers get a bit compressed it will expand slightly when the moisture of the glue seeps in e: I also recommend getting some scotch Brite abrasive pads for your finish sanding. they are finish grit equivalent but dont drop off bits of sand/abrasive. and you can "wet sand" in various finishes that look nice PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Feb 22, 2024 |
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Feb 22, 2024 01:25
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I did not realize it would be an hour drive each way when I bid on this at an estate auction, but hey, $19 for this gorgeous Columbian front vise  (and also a mandolin) (and also a bunch of pretty nice stuff that I lost bids on) Have done some prelim cleanup on it; someone in its past stuffed the screw holes on the back face with ... epoxy? wood putty? and also repainted the entire thing green without cleaning off any of the sawdust first, so I think I'm going to end up stripping it and repainting. Not like I have a bench to attach it to right now anyway. It is missing the alignment plate that goes in the back and holds the screw in position relative to the side rails, so I guess I'm going to try my hand at milling a replacement out of aluminum at some point And also replace the metal handle with a wood one. The endcaps have already bit me twice in the span of two hours.
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Feb 22, 2024 04:13
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Pictured: reasons to pay people to move your possessions instead of trying to do it yourself. Also RIP to my old workshop.  I'm moving cross-country (CA to PA), so the whole kit and kaboodle, including probably around $1000 worth of lumber, is coming with me. Unfortunately, the new site has no shop space yet...
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Feb 22, 2024 04:19
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You got lumber, you got an extension cord, pretty sure you can arrange some shop space before the building inspectors know what hit em
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Feb 22, 2024 04:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Pictured: reasons to pay people to move your possessions instead of trying to do it yourself. This reminds me I asked this question almost a year ago in this thread. In the end I didn't pay anyone jack poo poo and moved everything myself last autumn using my shop crane and trailer. I only had to move it from one building to another on the same property though. I documented the move here, I disassembled the bandsaw and laid it down on it's side to move it: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3961731&pagenumber=4#post534792837
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Feb 22, 2024 06:59
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Project: Making a bed I want to make a bed and this design has piqued my interest. However, is it strong enough or would it feel saggy? I'm a bit worried by the boards all being horizontal, and there's even less material at the joints. The legs also look a bit skinny, especially since the frame itself needs to be about 40 cm (roughly 16 inches) tall, i.e. the mattress will be placed at that height. I've never made a bed before though so I want to hear what you think.
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Feb 22, 2024 13:24
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Xabi posted:Project: Making a bed Make sure you flip the slats.
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Feb 22, 2024 13:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
Where in PA?
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Feb 22, 2024 13:45
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Stultus Maximus posted:Make sure you flip the slats.
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Feb 22, 2024 15:29
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Xabi posted:Project: Making a bed I'm not wild about how the legs are attached? I'd much rather see the base built like a table base with some aprons to provide more strength against racking. That could fairly easily be accomplished by turning the boards of support frame underneath vertical and mortise/tenoning them to the legs with stub tenons and cross-dowel bolts like the headboard. I also don't like that the entire bed is held together by those vertical bolts pinning the half-laps of the support frame. Those holes could definitely widen up and get loose over time and building the support frame with mortise/tenoned cross-dowels would fix that issue as well. Basically build a miniature four poster bed as the platform on which the rest of the bed sits. I think visually it would keep much of the same look but be 42x stronger. I've build a whole lot of beds in many different ways and a thru-bolted mortise and tenon at the post-rail joint is absolutely the best and stands up to 200 years of use and can be tightened if things ever loosen up. However if you want to basically stick to the original, I think a 3-3.5" diameter leg with an inch+ thru tenon that fits very tightly in the hole should be okay. The designer wedges it in, I don't love that for racking support. Better to get the tenon a very good straight fit or epoxy it in to fill any gaps. A wedged tenon will never pull out, but it might also not have very good contact with the side walls of hole since it is essentially a cone inside a cylinder, and its the contact between the walls of the mortise and the dowel tenon that will keep the legs from racking. If you made a tapered tenon and a matching tapered mortise like is commonly done with staked furniture, that guarantees 100% contact between mortise and tenon if you use matching reamers or whatever. Again I would still add some cross-dowel bolts between the foot rail and the side rail because I really don't like that half-lap connection pinned with bolts as the only thing holding the bed together. They are already used decoratively on the headboard so why not continue that to the foot?
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Feb 22, 2024 16:07
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PokeJoe posted:looks good friend. let me give you a softwood tenon tip: make a single hardwood test mortice to sneak up on the tenon as a "master" and you can prevent messing up your piece on test fits. if the tenon fibers get a bit compressed it will expand slightly when the moisture of the glue seeps in Thanks, that's a great tip about the test mortise, will definitely be using that in the future
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Feb 22, 2024 16:20
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AFewBricksShy posted:Where in PA? Near Philadelphia. As I write this, I'm sitting in the plane, waiting to take off, and listening to Pavlov, my dog, who is down in the cargo hold, barking his silly head off.
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Feb 22, 2024 16:44
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Depending on where near Philly, Delaware County Supply Company is a pretty good place for lumber. Or at least it was last time I was there, pre-COVID, it's a bit far of a drive for me in Delaware.
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Feb 22, 2024 18:11
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Thanks, appreciate the tip!
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Feb 22, 2024 18:21
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Check your pm's, but there's also Hearne Hardwoods in Oxford PA which has pretty much any species of wood you'd want to use.
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Feb 22, 2024 18:28
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AFewBricksShy posted:Check your pm's, but there's also Hearne Hardwoods in Oxford PA which has pretty much any species of wood you'd want to use.
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Feb 22, 2024 18:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:For double the price of anywhere else!! At least the prices they list on their website always seem astronomical, but I know they also have flitch-sawn stuff and hard to find and wide stuff which can be worth the cash for sure. I go to Spacht for anything non exotic, but I haven't found stuff like purpleheart any cheaper anywhere else once you include shipping, so sometimes it's worth it.
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Feb 22, 2024 18:52
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I'm a slut for cherry, so as long as that's available I'm good. Purpleheart is nice for accent work, but it burns so drat easily that I don't really prioritize it any more.
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Feb 22, 2024 18:59
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I'm waiting for the weather to warm up to apply finish, so expect proper finished-project photos later, but my cabinet is otherwise complete! It's kind of a different take on the cabinet I built in that dedicated thread the other year. They're going in the same room of our house, so they're intended to reference each other, but I didn't just want to make a clone, so I did this one in a different case style.
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Feb 23, 2024 00:45
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that looks really nice. I like the way the three drawer fronts run across with the same grain, and some sapwood color at the bottoms. I bet they're gonna pop when you apply a finish.
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Feb 23, 2024 01:06
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looks great, lots of good stuff the last day or two
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Feb 23, 2024 01:10
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Nice cabinet, that will compliment your other one nicely.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:11
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Please pray to the veneer/lamination/vacuum bag gods for me this is about the hardest thing I’ve ever veneered   
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 24, 2024 |
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Feb 24, 2024 01:00
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