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I just got my first printer a Bambu A1 mini (without ams) and I've been enjoying playing around with it in my office. Currently it's on a high stable wooden shelf in a doorless closet and seems to be doing fine, is that a reasonable place to leave it? The shelf doesn't seem to be getting terribly hot under it, the machine itself doesn't seem to be getting too hot with the current amount of limited ventilation, there is sufficient clearance for the arms, and the PLA filament I'm using doesn't smell bad (and doesn't seem to be toxic?). I had assumed I would stick it in the garage, but I read that it's better to be temperature controlled if possible. Otherwise, this is one of the few places in the house the cats absolutely cannot reach. I've been surprised how unnoticeable it is. It's not much louder than the air purifier in here (that's mostly for tinnitus related white noise) and the room hasn't felt much hotter with it working.
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Feb 24, 2024 05:14
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Oh yeah, can anyone recommend a really, really slick de-plating tool for resin printers? The thing I use that came with my 3D pen is apparently a palette knife. I found what looks to be the same model: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...7Cquery_from%3A edit: I use FDM not resin, and it's definitely not robust enough to be struck with a mallet, ymmv BMan fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Feb 24, 2024 |
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Feb 24, 2024 05:25
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So I've gone from just having a anycubic Mono X to having 2 additional elegoo saturn S's. I've decided I'm sending a saturn S + wash and cure to a buddy and I'd like to upgrade. I'm looking seriously at the uniformation GK Two. I've seen a few good review videos but wanted to also see what other people's opinions are or if there is another good quality printer I should look at. I largely print models, squads for tabletop games
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Feb 24, 2024 07:54
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FuzzySlippers posted:I just got my first printer a Bambu A1 mini (without ams) and I've been enjoying playing around with it in my office. Currently it's on a high stable wooden shelf in a doorless closet and seems to be doing fine, is that a reasonable place to leave it? The shelf doesn't seem to be getting terribly hot under it, the machine itself doesn't seem to be getting too hot with the current amount of limited ventilation, there is sufficient clearance for the arms, and the PLA filament I'm using doesn't smell bad (and doesn't seem to be toxic?). I had assumed I would stick it in the garage, but I read that it's better to be temperature controlled if possible. Otherwise, this is one of the few places in the house the cats absolutely cannot reach. The only thing Bambu recommends with the A1 models is to not fully enclose them, as in keeping them covered by a small box. As long as there's some free air to circulate a bit, and the ambient temperature isn't in the "probable death without air conditioning" zone, it'll be just fine. And yeah, PLA is almost certainly the least harmful thing you can print with. To my knowledge there haven't been any conclusive long-term studies done on 3D printing and air quality (and some please, please correct me if I'm wrong about that), but among more commonly used materials it's pretty well known that ABS and other styrenes in particular are terrible and awful and bad to use without external ventilation. Things like PLA, PETG, and TPU don't give off those kinds of irritating/toxic fumes and are much safer to use in living spaces... we think.
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Feb 24, 2024 12:07
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PLA fumes give me headaches so while there may not be any actual or documented long term harms it's definitely not inert.
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Feb 24, 2024 13:04
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Ambrose Burnside posted:We do have access to Netfabb because Rapidshape printers use their own badged version for slicing, and we used to have a Rapidshape, but I found it pretty clunky. It's clearly powerful/full-featured, but lacks in that "hit button for good supports" factor I'm prioritizing. Honestly never did much supporting in it, though, I should give it a second chance. If you’ve already got Netfabb, have you tried setting up support scripts? I don’t have any hands on experience myself, but I think that’s their rules based system for support automation. Usually in the higher end commercial stuff, you’re setting up your own rules based support systems no matter what. I know for sure the DELMIA role works the same way. I wish I knew more about the options between the free hobby stuff and these, but hopefully “support scripts” is the magic keyword that’ll get you where you need to go. E: it’s more of a hardware thing, but if you’re looking to spend at some point, Formlabs’ Preform software is just straight up incredible for print prep. NewFatMike fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Feb 24, 2024 |
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Feb 24, 2024 14:07
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xzzy posted:PLA fumes give me headaches so while there may not be any actual or documented long term harms it's definitely not inert.
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Feb 24, 2024 16:22
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Acid Reflux posted:You're the only person I've ever heard say that about PLA, and I don't mean that in an accusatory or "I don't believe you" way - quite the opposite, I wonder if it's happening to others and they don't realize it? I do worry some about how printing might affect health and air quality, and while there's good air circulation in my print area, I still won't use anything more exotic than PETG because I don't have a system that purposefully exhausts outside. Generally speaking, aerosolized particulates aren't great for your lungs. This is one of the reasons I print PLA in an enclosure.
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Feb 24, 2024 16:24
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While PLA itself is (mostly) harmless, I'm going to guess that there's a lot less detail about the dyes and colorants being used in a lot of places. Especially with the bargain basement $10/roll stuff you pick up on Amazon, etc. And hell, people can be sensitive to anything. Just because it's not objectively harmful, our immune systems are weird and far from perfect.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:09
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Yeah it's not really a critique of PLA as I've developed a handful of sensitivities the past year or two.. exhaust fumes, soldering fumes, the waft of VOCs when opening a sealed container full of plastic, staring at a screen too long, etc. So PLA might be "fine" in a statistical sense and I've just grown to one end of the bell curve. But it certainly illustrates that PLA (or the vendor specific additives) off gasses something and even if one doesn't have issues it's absolutely putting stuff in your lungs.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:32
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I don’t think any of them are good for you, but in general hotter the extruder temperature is, worse it is. Styrene things (ABS/ASA) even bit worse than indicated by their extrusion tempereture. ASA doesn’t stink like ABS but it doesn’t mean that the fumes are any less harmful.
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Feb 24, 2024 18:36
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Seconding PLA issues - I had my Bambu P1S on my desk in my enclosed office and printing PLA was smelly and gave me headaches. I’ve moved it to my basement which is more open and put an air purifier next to it, nothing noticeable now.
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Feb 24, 2024 22:04
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Print out all day everyday some matte grey inland pla, and I started using some bulk bought sunlu in the same color /type Mando helmet has been clogged and printing in the air for an hour Extruder is clogged now and I need to fix. No biggie I'll just switch to the next printer and worry about it later. Print came off the bed or something, knocked the front off. I'm on the road to an event and two trainers are offline. Of course. God drat it
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Feb 24, 2024 22:30
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Roundboy posted:Print out all day everyday some matte grey inland pla, and I started using some bulk bought sunlu in the same color /type I recently grabbed a roll of sunlu black pla because I needed some black and didn't want to order a bulk pack yet. It prints like poo poo as compared with every other brand I have, including bulk pla+ at half its cost/kg
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Feb 24, 2024 22:36
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Javid posted:I recently grabbed a roll of sunlu black pla because I needed some black and didn't want to order a bulk pack yet. It prints like poo poo as compared with every other brand I have, including bulk pla+ at half its cost/kg I've always had the worst time with Sunlu PLA. I just stick with Overture now and don't have to think about it.
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Feb 24, 2024 22:47
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xzzy posted:PLA fumes give me headaches so while there may not be any actual or documented long term harms it's definitely not inert. I find PLA fumes unpleasant enough that I make sure to print in a room that has active ventilation, and I try to spend as little time as possible in the room while it's ongoing.
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Feb 25, 2024 00:21
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I've been using purely eryone pla lately and I think it's the best filament I've ever used. Probably put 200 rolls through without any issues and the prints look hella clean
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Feb 25, 2024 00:28
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I mostly use eSun and a local brand (Polyalkemi, which likely just buys and rebrands from one of the large manufacturers), and I don't notice much from PLA other than the occasional smell. Main exception is wood filament, that smells nice.
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Feb 25, 2024 00:35
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I'm using the bambu labs PLA basic and it has little smell I can detect. It's like a distant odd cooking smell sometimes. It sounds like it'll be fine to leave it here for a while. Eventually I'll figure out a better setup that's also 100% cat proof (I could see our goofy cats trying to play with the moving printer and get burned). What's the preferred software for tweaking stl files you download off thingiverse? I was a mediocre at Maya a decade ago so I understand 3D modeling software vaguely, but I figured it was better to learn something more intended for 3d printing than try to remember how to use whatever Maya is now or learn Blender's interface. I went looking for recommendations and landed on Onshape but I found it incredibly confusing to do anything and following tutorials wasn't helping. Fundamentally I just needed to lengthen some faces on the model but could not figure out how to do that. Eventually I managed to accomplish it in a very awkward way in TinkerCad using their add/remove shapes tools but it seems very backwards to me. Maybe I'm just too used to adjusting faces/verts and need to grok boolean operation stuff.
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Feb 25, 2024 01:23
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FuzzySlippers posted:I was a mediocre at Maya a decade ago so I understand 3D modeling software vaguely, but I figured it was better to learn something more intended for 3d printing than try to remember how to use whatever Maya is now or learn Blender's interface. Actual lol, lmao. Maya is exactly the same, just with new icons, dark instead of grey ui, and with some additional tools stacked on top. For stl editing specifically, I'd say start with what you're familiar with. The big thing is really if you intend to just do simple tweaks to models, kitbashing, etc, or if you're intending to model up functional models. Maya and blender can be used for editing and kitbashing, anything more organic, and making simple functional prints, but as you mention, I'd suggest something more CAD aligned for more advanced mechanical design. A big thing to mention is that if you want to work with STLs as normal models, you'll want to merge overlapping verts after import, atleast in maya. That way you go from individual tris, to surfaces you can more easily work with.
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Feb 25, 2024 01:48
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Editing STL files is a giant pain in the rear end. They don't support quads or n-gons, so exporting to that format turns the polygon structure into a disaster -- if there even was one in the first place. If the creator was modeling in Fusion or some other mechanical CAD program then the STL structure is completely at the software's mercy. Blender will let you do all the basic vertex poking and boolean operations that you might want to do with downloaded STLs, it's no more complicated to learn than Maya, and it's free. It's what I would use if that is what you want to do. But editing STLs is hell. If you want to do anything more complicated than gluing two models together or cutting holes in one, good luck. I wish that every one of these STL hosting sites would also require that people upload their raw file, whether it's a .blend or .fbx or something with proper n-gons, or a STEP surface, or whatever. So much easier to work with those.
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Feb 25, 2024 01:53
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That's a pisser that editing them isn't easy as I thought STL was just some FBX like format. I've just run across some models I need to basically change the scale of certain sections instead of the entire model so I'll see how bad sorting out Blender is these days. Way back then the interface was more obtuse than Maya or Modo but that was a millennia ago in software terms so I'm sure it has improved. I was looking at videos for fusion 360 and couldn't tell how bad it'd be to learn (I know nothing about CAD) and whether the free version was perfectly usable or it had significant limitations. Once upon a time autodesk free versions were the same except you had click something saying you weren't using it for commercial, but the only obvious limitation of fusion seemed to be the awkward 10 usable files at once limit.
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Feb 25, 2024 02:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Oh yeah, can anyone recommend a really, really slick de-plating tool for resin printers? Fancy/expensive is fine. We swear by Olfa T-45 curved scrapers, they're no longer being manufactured so we hoard them jealously, but you can still get em on ebay etc. See why? Sounds like what you want is an actual chisel, with a bench grinder you can put that radius on yourself, they can be long enough to hold flat against the glass/print plate, and if you're spendy enough (we're talking artisanal Japanese forged) you can get that divot in the bottom as well. Regarding TPU, I did a decent number of multimaterial prints with it (nylon and PLA) using an ultimaker at the old workplace but those things cost 5k at the time for a dual-extruder system
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Feb 25, 2024 02:48
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FuzzySlippers posted:That's a pisser that editing them isn't easy as I thought STL was just some FBX like format. I've just run across some models I need to basically change the scale of certain sections instead of the entire model so I'll see how bad sorting out Blender is these days. Way back then the interface was more obtuse than Maya or Modo but that was a millennia ago in software terms so I'm sure it has improved. I was looking at videos for fusion 360 and couldn't tell how bad it'd be to learn (I know nothing about CAD) and whether the free version was perfectly usable or it had significant limitations. Once upon a time autodesk free versions were the same except you had click something saying you weren't using it for commercial, but the only obvious limitation of fusion seemed to be the awkward 10 usable files at once limit. There may be some intention to not preserving that data in an STL. It’s possible it’s some form of anti-piracy because only the owner of the original file has the details to reproduce it fully or make changes. Think similar to an editable vs no-edit/copy PDF.
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Feb 25, 2024 04:02
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Javid posted:I recently grabbed a roll of sunlu black pla because I needed some black and didn't want to order a bulk pack yet. It prints like poo poo as compared with every other brand I have, including bulk pla+ at half its cost/kg It was 14.99 vs 19.99 so I was trying it. So far on printer 2 it's just fine. Ams hates it, but the Hydra pro mod should handle it fine. The curve leading to the extruder is a bit.... Bad? Came home from the event and cleaners/washed plate and started new prints I needed instead. Voron is just chugging away on stuff it does well. I won't even unclog printer 1 until tomorrow Events are fickle. I sold stuff I printed as a 'this seems cool' table fascinator and all the stuff I printed for a kid centric event next week. Now I have to grab more bone colored spools and reprint all this week for next Sunday. I like money, but JFC people Steampunk people are odd. I make okay money, but I did get two solid business ideas to go into in the best future so be friendly with the other vendors guys Edit. I sold a fertility idol from Indiana Jones I printed, buff and rubbed, and filled with sand to use as a 'do the exchange with sand thing' game. A guy commented that I had a model that is VERY close to movie quality. Turned out he is a legit filmmaker that owned a signed movie on screen idol prop and can back it up with pics. It was nice and it was a cool, but very weird lotto odds win. How does that even happen? Roundboy fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Feb 25, 2024 |
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Feb 25, 2024 04:54
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Kiavahr posted:Sounds like what you want is an actual chisel, with a bench grinder you can put that radius on yourself, they can be long enough to hold flat against the glass/print plate, and if you're spendy enough (we're talking artisanal Japanese forged) you can get that divot in the bottom as well. at home i used to use a forged japanese carpenter's knife from lee valley, because it was made from very hard steel (holds a very fine edge) and had a long, perfectly-flat bevel grind, with a backswept blade that created 'belly', where the sides swept backwards instead of up, like the T-45 does, so you could tuck the edge under a print's corner just the same. just press the bevel against the build plate to put the edge right at the very bottom of a print to work its way under and crack the part free. worked very well, albeit wasn't suited to being struck with a mallet, you often had to pry which isn't great for print survival  also a lot more available because they're still being made, unlike the olfa radius scraper Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Feb 25, 2024 |
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Feb 25, 2024 06:31
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i've got one of those knives too. it's called a higonokami. i definitely would not be prying anything with it because the core of the blade is extremely hard and brittle steel. but i guess if it works for you, go for it. you can get them in a variety of places online
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Feb 25, 2024 06:33
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Sagebrush posted:i've got one of those knives too. it's called a higonokami. i definitely would not be prying anything with it because the core of the blade is extremely hard and brittle steel. but i guess if it works for you, go for it. The wedge action does all of the work normally in popping prints off the plate, I got away with applying far less force than I did with the usual flat paint scraper tool they include with printers because the knife was so good at sneaking under the edge of the print and applying wedging force where it's effective. you're just kind of option-limited if applying firm force doesn't do the job, whereas something with a solid shank is always receptive to "bop it with a deadblow". like a chisel, as suggested, yeah.
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Feb 25, 2024 07:14
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As I’ve previously mentioned, PLA smells fine to me with that slightly sweet smell, but seems to irritate my nasal passages where they join the back of my throat. I don’t know if I updated but I ended up buying an IKEA air purifier with the optional VOC filter and I run that when printing in my room, sat up high enough on a box that it’s not causing a direct draught at the build plate and catches the rising fumes nicely. If I run that while I print I have no issues, and I bought a little air monitor from IKEA as well which shows no PM2.5 increase if I have the filter on. TPU/PETG gets printed in the bathroom with the exhaust fan running though.
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Feb 25, 2024 09:16
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Get a lawn mower deck scraper. Generally stainless steel and usually curved, not very wide.
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Feb 25, 2024 13:01
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I was doing some computer housekeeping last night and ran across a copy of what I think was the last release of Autodesk's 123D Design. If you haven't heard of it, it was part of an entire suite of programs that supported a pretty comprehensive "maker" work flow. It's where (a quite different at the time) Tinkercad was born. Then they killed the whole thing way back in 2017, just a couple months after I'd finally bought my very own 3D printer and was diving head first into learning the design side of things. Thanks Autodesk, that was awesome of you! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autodesk_123D Turns out that 123D Design, at least, still works and doesn't need to talk to the now non-existent servers or anything. I've been fiddling around with it a bit this morning and remembering just how easy it was to use. My favorite part is discovering that even back then, it also did the one thing I lean very heavily on Fusion 360 for now: you can import an SVG as a sketch. That's handy as all hell to me, because I can draw much much faster and more accurately in Illustrator than I can with Fusion's sketch tools, and a lot of the stuff I design is relatively flat and is very quick to create with that flow. If anyone else wants to play around, I tossed it up on my web space. https://www.farscapeprops.com/123D_Design_R2.2_WIN64_2.2.14.exe
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Feb 25, 2024 13:53
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:There may be some intention to not preserving that data in an STL. It’s possible it’s some form of anti-piracy because only the owner of the original file has the details to reproduce it fully or make changes. STL was literally just the format the earliest 3d printer slicer software was set up to read. Like, literally circa 1987-era software-coding development as an output that could be traced by the commercial resin printers in development at the time.
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Feb 25, 2024 13:53
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quote is not edit, ffs But yeah - STL is literally shorthand for "stereolithography", and it's one of the most basic 3D data formats that exists. Still fine for general usage, a bit clunky for really hi-res models, and absolute poo poo for editing.
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Feb 25, 2024 13:56
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FuzzySlippers posted:That's a pisser that editing them isn't easy as I thought STL was just some FBX like format. I've just run across some models I need to basically change the scale of certain sections instead of the entire model so I'll see how bad sorting out Blender is these days. Way back then the interface was more obtuse than Maya or Modo but that was a millennia ago in software terms so I'm sure it has improved. I was looking at videos for fusion 360 and couldn't tell how bad it'd be to learn (I know nothing about CAD) and whether the free version was perfectly usable or it had significant limitations. Once upon a time autodesk free versions were the same except you had click something saying you weren't using it for commercial, but the only obvious limitation of fusion seemed to be the awkward 10 usable files at once limit. If you’re coming from nothing on CAD, Onshape has an incredible elearning platform that even free users get access to. The skills are transferable if you move on to Fusion or SOLIDWORKS or whatever else. One of my job duties is training users for SOLIDWORKS and I’m envious that Onshape has such a great starting platform designed by a bunch of my former coworkers
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Feb 25, 2024 14:34
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Is there an obvious cause for this kind of surface deformation? Note that all three were printed at the same time. There's about a 25% infill on the pattern with ironing turned on. Given that all three parts are using the same settings, PLA and printer I find it hard to believe it's one of those! I have re-levelled my bed and just about to print something else off, but thought I'd check first!
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Feb 25, 2024 15:52
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Acid Reflux posted:quote is not edit, ffs Josef Prusa wants you to change file formats. And the 3D Printers thread does, too. Just went to switch from the loaded shiny silk PLA to my ulility spool of Whale Gray Jessie, and the silk filament had broken in three places. It's 30% humidity outside today. I absolutely refuse to buy a dry box, I am not at that level of commitment to this "hobby", but drat. Guess I'd better go print the rest of the shiny spool before it turns to dust.
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Feb 26, 2024 00:21
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cruft posted:Josef Prusa wants you to change file formats. And the 3D Printers thread does, too. Bambu Makerworld has recently switched to requiring 3MFs for all new uploads, which has been nice
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Feb 26, 2024 00:38
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3mf files are still crappy tessellated meshes, aren’t they? Or do they support STEP files in the archive, too?
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Feb 26, 2024 01:25
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Has Bambu stopped loving up the 3MF files they write? They encode all the job settings, etc which is fine but the 3MF no longer opens in Microsoft 3D Builder which is my favorite viewer 
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Feb 26, 2024 01:47
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NewFatMike posted:3mf files are still crappy tessellated meshes, aren’t they? Or do they support STEP files in the archive, too? Yep, still crappy tessellated mesh. Doesn't even support quads as far as I can tell. It is nice that it can include other data like material, color, print settings, etc., but if you want to do any sort of editing, you really need the raw n-gon mesh or the original NURBS file. The QuadRemesh utility ($120 for blender, free with Rhino) is incredibly good at fixing bad STLs and getting something usable out. But there's no good free alternative that I'm aware of Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Feb 26, 2024 |
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Feb 26, 2024 01:58
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