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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I agree in general with what you said, except for the infill comment

I had black eyes surrounded by yellow body, and if what you said was true, then the first x printed objects would have had bleed, and the rest would be fine.

But each and every of the 20 some items had the ninja mask around it so it was more then just flush volume. I am already using the new purge options but my mistake was not printing a single test item to make sure my settings were proper before doing a full tray

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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

gbut posted:

I ordered the Eibos Polyphemus drier somebody suggested in this thread.
It finally arrived yesterday and I already dried half a dozen rolls of varying materials. It seems to be working nicely, from what I can tell. Thanks for the suggestion, whoever it was. I was about to get a "whatever" drier from Amazon.
I got some vacuum bags and pump from them as well, so I hope I can now finally eliminate one variable while I continue the endless tuning of my Voron V2.4.

That was me I think, specifically others pointed out the Cyclopes, but I recommended taking advantage of the pre-sale price of the Poly since it seemed a much better iteration for not much more at the time.

Glad it worked for your purpose, and now I may order one to complement the rest of my dryers (I live on an Island with no central AC so very humid usually).

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
It's a whole other hobby to pick up, but if you want just multicolor you may be better served learning how to airbrush/paint your prints

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



lol so I buy an A1, clear a spot for it, that night my buddy calls and says he isnt using his S1 max that he bought like a year ago and I can use it if I want.

so now i have a free S1 max in the mix and need to clear another spot for the A1 mini coming today



might be able to print some full size non cut up boats on it, thats some nice print area

edit: have some better shelving coming too lol, gonna start stacking all the printers on big heavy metal shelving instead, get more room, fit 12 where i could fit 2-3 before

queeb fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Mar 11, 2024

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


queeb posted:

lol so I buy an A1, clear a spot for it, that night my buddy calls and says he isnt using his S1 max that he bought like a year ago and I can use it if I want.

so now i have a free S1 max in the mix and need to clear another spot for the A1 mini coming today



might be able to print some full size non cut up boats on it, thats some nice print area

edit: have some better shelving coming too lol, gonna start stacking all the printers on big heavy metal shelving instead, get more room, fit 12 where i could fit 2-3 before

If Satisfactory taught me anything, it's that in order to accommodate more printers, you need to go up.

Bobulus
Jan 28, 2007

Boooo. Had a print I wanted to do, but my print bed is 250mm and the model was 260mm wide. Tried to fudge it by tilting the model 5 degrees so it would fit, just with a bunch of prusaslicer organic supports. Went with a really slow print rate in the hopes it would make it more likely for the trees to stay on the bed. A four day print.

Worked fine for 24 hours, and then one of the trees popped off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBKwskVWXU0

I guess I should be thankful it happened now, and not three days in, but it's still frustrating. I'll do the correct thing and get my buddy with a 300mm bed to print it.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I already vastly prefer this Saturn 3 Ultra to the Mono X just for its improved vat design and other quality of life upgrades.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
The manual for this filament dryer lists temperatures for various types of filament; are these just the minimums? For instance it has 50C for PLA, but could I dry at 70C? That's too low to melt the PLA but I don't know anything about the physics of material properties, like would this weaken the PLA in some way that would cause a problem with the spool while printing?

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
70c on PLA is annealing temperature, which would stand a decent chance of changing the printing properties, yeah

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Is a dryer necessary? I just chucked my unused spools in a plastic boxes with a few silica bags and that’s been doing fine by me. Or is that more necessary for stuff that isn’t PLA?

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Javid posted:

70c on PLA is annealing temperature, which would stand a decent chance of changing the printing properties, yeah

Thanks, I'll keep it at 50 then.

Warbird posted:

Is a dryer necessary? I just chucked my unused spools in a plastic boxes with a few silica bags and that’s been doing fine by me. Or is that more necessary for stuff that isn’t PLA?

Silica slows water absorption but won't reverse waterlogging, if I remember correctly.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Warbird posted:

Is a dryer necessary? I just chucked my unused spools in a plastic boxes with a few silica bags and that’s been doing fine by me. Or is that more necessary for stuff that isn’t PLA?

I have stopped bothering to even do this. It's dry enough here that I haven't hit the limits of how long PLA will last before becoming unusable.

senrath
Nov 4, 2009

Look Professor, a destruct switch!


Listerine posted:

Thanks, I'll keep it at 50 then.

Silica slows water absorption but won't reverse waterlogging, if I remember correctly.

Pretty much. Silica is great to help ensure that your filament never picks up water in the first place, but you're never going to be able to pull appreciable amounts of moisture out of a filament without heating it.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Warbird posted:

Is a dryer necessary? I just chucked my unused spools in a plastic boxes with a few silica bags and that’s been doing fine by me. Or is that more necessary for stuff that isn’t PLA?

It’s largely for stuff that isn’t PLA. I dry and store my filament and run my dryer during prints just as a general practice and my prints are great.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

PLA's moisture absorption rate can vary wildly, because PLA is a very broad term for material that's made up of an amount of polylactic acid and another amount of "who the gently caress knows." Different blends can have very different properties and it's all a giant crap shoot. Dry if you need to, don't if you don't.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

The “who the gently caress knows” makes me feel not great about having the printer in my office with me.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
99% of the time I haven't had any problems but I got one roll that I returned to and it was clogging up the printer, so I got a dryer to see if waterlogging was the issue, and plus I'm thinking of getting into more PETG printing. Besides it's department money as this is for work and not my hobby, so who the hell cares if I get a dryer I only use once a year.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I've rehabbed a few rolls of old PLA with my dryer that had gotten brittle. I've also had a roll that was just too far gone. On other filaments, particularly nylon, it's much more necessary.

armorer fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Mar 12, 2024

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Warbird posted:

The “who the gently caress knows” makes me feel not great about having the printer in my office with me.

Honestly? Good. Filtration and MSDS are really poorly documented and executed in hobby machines and processes. I won’t touch resin printers at home because I’m not going to deal with sensitizing agents, let alone fume hazards, for mini figs or whatever.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I don't think any MSDS discusses e.g. vapor emissions at 250 C.

And I doubt any hobby filament MSDS could less informative than Igus documentation. I don't think Igus even discloses the underlying polymer for their filaments (e.g. PLA, PETG, ABS, etc). They only give material properties and print parameters.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
On the topic of dry/not dry, a lot of it is going to be dependent on individual circumstances. Someone living outside Seattle where a day you can see the blue of the sky and aren't getting rained on is a gift to be treasured will probably need to dry more than someone living in the heights of Arizona where rain is that thing that happens a month or two out of the year and moisture is what you drink from a cup.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



drat the a1 mini is a nice little machine, got mine today, set it up in like 5 mins and its blasting out parts now

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

ryanrs posted:

I don't think any MSDS discusses e.g. vapor emissions at 250 C.

And I doubt any hobby filament MSDS could less informative than Igus documentation. I don't think Igus even discloses the underlying polymer for their filaments (e.g. PLA, PETG, ABS, etc). They only give material properties and print parameters.

Sure that’s fair, I guess Past Dumber Me was more trying to convey that the health impacts of melting and vaporizing polymers in the home or other enclosed and not specially ventilated spaces aren’t well known.

The lack of testing and understanding of what let alone the effects of doing that any given filament is reasonable cause for concern.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



some dude i sent a bunch of boats to just sent me pics of them after he painted them up for a game hes running, thought you guys would get a kick out of it:








ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

NewFatMike posted:

Sure that’s fair, I guess Past Dumber Me was more trying to convey that the health impacts of melting and vaporizing polymers in the home or other enclosed and not specially ventilated spaces aren’t well known.

The lack of testing and understanding of what let alone the effects of doing that any given filament is reasonable cause for concern.

Yeah. I feel like occupational exposure is often how we discover things are toxic in the first place.

5TonsOfFlax
Aug 31, 2001

bird food bathtub posted:

On the topic of dry/not dry, a lot of it is going to be dependent on individual circumstances. Someone living outside Seattle where a day you can see the blue of the sky and aren't getting rained on is a gift to be treasured will probably need to dry more than someone living in the heights of Arizona where rain is that thing that happens a month or two out of the year and moisture is what you drink from a cup.

I'm that Seattle (Bellevue) guy, AND my printer is in my basement. My PLA is still pretty decent being left un-mitigated for a week or three. For longer term, I mostly keep them in giant ziplocks. I have dryers, but rarely run them.

I also haven't really done anything except PLA.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


My printed Catan tokens have gotten noticed. 2 orders in one day. Finally putting the AMS to good use.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

queeb posted:

some dude i sent a bunch of boats to just sent me pics of them after he painted them up for a game hes running, thought you guys would get a kick out of it:










That's really cool!

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Last call if anyone wants this Mono X + various upgrades for the cost of S&H. Wham bam, aluminum knobs and drip hangar, extra FEP and misc parts.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Deviant posted:

Last call if anyone wants this Mono X + various upgrades for the cost of S&H. Wham bam, aluminum knobs and drip hangar, extra FEP and misc parts.

Maybe? I'll DM you

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I got two DMs, i will get you quotes in the order they were received.


Edit: To anyone else interested, this machine is highly used and may have screen issues. At one point it experienced a leak I had to clean out internally. I do not suggest it as a first resin printer, but more of a project for anyone who wants to tinker and already knows their way around.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Mar 13, 2024

Strotski
Dec 29, 2013

It's been a month since I bought Kobra 2 max and I never felt a bigger buyers remorse towards anything in my life but it's too late to change because I've replaced so many things.
Been trying to fix it or make it functional for the whole month of daily work, reassembled it at least 4 times, most recent one tramming the entire gantry from scratch.
The most recent thing is the accelerometer and vibration compensation not working due to it, I ended up ordering the entire printhead cause it's only a few dollars more than a PCB for it.
Half of all my issues are it being my first 3d printer, and half is the printer itself, from closed firmware to just the way it is.

I'm sure community will somehow hack it to place klipper on it, but until that time I suffer with my dial indicator and kilograms of test prints.

Oh and for anyone who considered buying one, it prints fine but not nearly as well as it could have. Just get an elegoo Neptune 4 max instead, is what I should have done.

Strotski fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Mar 13, 2024

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I think the Neptune 4 has klipper issues.


Generally folks are pointed to sovol (minus the 07) as a beginner level printer.. they print pretty well out of the box.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep
Is there anything good and reliable that has as big a bed as the kobra max 2?

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

To those interested, the OrcaSlicer v2.0.0 beta is out now, with the new scarf joint seams.


Really curious to try it out, myself.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I keep wanting to try orca but bugs always prevent me. Like the volumetric flow issue lately, but in the past it was erasing profiles and not saving filament profiles.


I guess I can try yet again.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

How quickly does new stuff typically propagate out to the other slicers?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


By “other slicers” do you mean Simplify3D or literally any other slicer on the market? 🤣

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Has anyone tried 3dprintlife 'Dura' PLA ? https://www.3dprintlife.com/dura

It seems fine, and they claim "PLA Based Biodegradable Nylon Analog" buuut they also claim temps are 175℃ - 195℃ with a bed temp of 0-60C
I have personally found 60 to be WAY to hot, but I need some temp to have good adhesion.

I have lowered temps (on the voron which likely reads hot) to 170 and I still get a benchy that is mostly ok, just a little melty at the smokestack or wherever else there is a short layer time.

I have gone further down to 165 and increased min layer time to compensate. but the printer is wide open and fans are at 100%. I can't cool it anymore. Is there any other analog to this? Sure it was $7/ kg, but i need to tune it so much to even get a halfway decent print.. and i see nothing about anyone using it on anything.


EDIT: no i didnt. I forgot i have min temp set to 170 and going lower stopped the printer as there is no way PLA goes that low. long sigh. Now to edit my printer.cfg and hope i dont forget the next time i print 'normal' stuff

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Mar 13, 2024

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Strotski
Dec 29, 2013

tater_salad posted:

I think the Neptune 4 has klipper issues..
From what I hear the community has largely solved those, unlike k2max where it's too early for that.

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