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Ethics_Gradient posted:I can sorta see it in that first pic, not so much the others. Thanks for this advice, I'll give this a go with a couple of frames. It always seems to be on the left hand edge but it doesn't look like light leaks I can find on google, I'm starting to think maybe the shutter is sticking right at the end or something.
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May 2, 2024 04:37
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| # ? May 18, 2024 02:43 |
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 C-41 ca. 2018
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May 2, 2024 05:16
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Okeydoke, I have ordered a nice looking macro bellows set(and i went ahead and got the double cable release while i was at it) for the OM system. I have one other question which is actually plenty relevant to other types of shooting I like to do - is there any way to lock up the mirror before the shutter fires on the OM system, specifically the 4/4Ti? It seems to do it for you when you're doing a self-timer exposure - as soon as you press the shutter release the mirror goes up and you can no longer see through the viewer and then 10 seconds later the shutter goes. It'd be nice for long exposures and for the macros I have planned to not have to sit there and wait 10 seconds on top of however long I'm exposing. I've gone over the user manual twice and saw no mention of it.
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May 2, 2024 17:04
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I think only the om-1 has mirror lock up.
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May 2, 2024 18:11
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I should create a motion picture thread, but here's a little film I created recently as a test roll for a bolex H16S non-reflex camera I bought and had serviced. I wanted to create something that captured springtime. This is the first project that I actually sat down and created a shot list for. Considering I've really never created a video in my 30 something years and this is all shot in my neighborhood, I'm OK with it. The biggest thing I'd do differently is using a tripod for sure, and maybe being more patient for better shots of some things. I whiffed the exposure on a couple shots but I was able to use most of the 3 minutes of film. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwsn3_rLqlU
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May 2, 2024 20:18
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a dingus posted:I should create a motion picture thread, but here's a little film I created recently as a test roll for a bolex H16S non-reflex camera I bought and had serviced. I wanted to create something that captured springtime. This is the first project that I actually sat down and created a shot list for. Considering I've really never created a video in my 30 something years and this is all shot in my neighborhood, I'm OK with it. The biggest thing I'd do differently is using a tripod for sure, and maybe being more patient for better shots of some things. I whiffed the exposure on a couple shots but I was able to use most of the 3 minutes of film. I love this. My brother shot the final project for his film degree with a 16mm bolex. I would read the gently caress out of that thread.
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May 2, 2024 22:49
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Ziggy Smalls posted:I love this. My brother shot the final project for his film degree with a 16mm bolex. I would read the gently caress out of that thread. Thank you! I think I took inspiration from people doing film school projects on YouTube, ha. This one isn't a film school project but I think it's what made me want to shoot something in this style. I have some recorded sounds that I might make another cut with. I'll get to making a motion picture thread soon enough. At this point Ive played with enough cameras to make a decent OP.
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May 3, 2024 01:22
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a dingus posted:I should create a motion picture thread, but here's a little film I created recently as a test roll for a bolex H16S non-reflex camera I bought and had serviced. I wanted to create something that captured springtime. This is the first project that I actually sat down and created a shot list for. Considering I've really never created a video in my 30 something years and this is all shot in my neighborhood, I'm OK with it. The biggest thing I'd do differently is using a tripod for sure, and maybe being more patient for better shots of some things. I whiffed the exposure on a couple shots but I was able to use most of the 3 minutes of film. I am so bummed - I apparently failed to hook up the second side of this double 8mm to its reel correctly when I switched it over and now my film is all jumbled inside my flea market kodak Brownie. For a hundred god drat dollars of film+dev+scan from FPP I am really kicking myself. Nice work though.
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May 3, 2024 01:32
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a dingus posted:The biggest thing I'd do differently is using a tripod for sure Yeah, that immediately jumped out at me. So used to seeing super stable video. Adds to the retro feels though.
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May 3, 2024 13:12
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Admiral Bosch posted:I am so bummed - I apparently failed to hook up the second side of this double 8mm to its reel correctly when I switched it over and now my film is all jumbled inside my flea market kodak Brownie. For a hundred god drat dollars of film+dev+scan from FPP I am really kicking myself. Nice work though. That's the intimidating thing about these things... you load it up and hope it works because once you put the cover back on it's like Schrodinger's cat. Is there any way you can open it in a light proof big or darkroom and fix it? Even if you need to re-spool it at least you'd save at least half your footage. dema posted:Yeah, that immediately jumped out at me. So used to seeing super stable video. Adds to the retro feels though. I have a tripod that I used for a couple shots, like the rainy window. I just think after using a still camera for so long I totally forgot that if I sway like a drunken sailor it's not going to be rectified by a fast shutter speed. Whoops
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May 3, 2024 16:41
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What would y’all suggest as a low-entry 35mm rangefinder?
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May 3, 2024 20:33
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dupersaurus posted:What would y’all suggest as a low-entry 35mm rangefinder? Leica m6 But seriously a Canon P or some model of Canon 7 are sturdy things. Canon made some excellent lenses for them and it's all LTM so you have lots of other lens options. And of course LTM > M mount adapters are seamless when you eventually just get the m6.
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May 3, 2024 20:50
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Canon L, L2 or VL or VT would be my first picks. Or any of the Soviet cameras
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May 3, 2024 22:33
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Don't overlook some of the fixed lens ones either. https://cameraquest.com/com35s.htm
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May 3, 2024 22:37
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If fixed lens is also on the table the the Konica IIIa is lovely as is the Minolta V2 as as well as all of their others. Olympus is also a solid choice for fixed lens with their RD and others in that series.
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May 3, 2024 22:46
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My initial search did zoom in on the QL19 and RC, I don’t hate the idea of something small and simple, I’ve already got three SLRs  Edit: is it worthwhile avoiding things with old battery types or is finding replacements not that bad? Edit edit: looks like there are same-voltage replacements for the dreaded mercury batteries dupersaurus fucked around with this message at 00:39 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 23:27
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a dingus posted:That's the intimidating thing about these things... you load it up and hope it works because once you put the cover back on it's like Schrodinger's cat. Is there any way you can open it in a light proof big or darkroom and fix it? Even if you need to re-spool it at least you'd save at least half your footage. My neighbor has a light proof bag but when I opened it after I thought I was finished shooting it was kind of a mess. I don't know that I trust myself to do that in the dark without turning it into a worse mess - I was thinking today I might package the whole camera to send to FPP to have them deal with it to at least try and salvage the front half.
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May 4, 2024 03:11
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dupersaurus posted:Edit: is it worthwhile avoiding things with old battery types or is finding replacements not that bad? Replacements are available. The one I got for my Spotmatic doesn't work but I think the light meter is just busted. I have some other weird modern battery for a Yashica that works fine. You may need to finagle a bit with a bit of rubber to get the battery to sit in place properly, I haven't had to but I've read about it. The minor voltage difference between the mercury batteries and the replacements doesn't seem to matter.
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May 4, 2024 03:21
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Grand Fromage posted:Replacements are available. The one I got for my Spotmatic doesn't work but I think the light meter is just busted. I have some other weird modern battery for a Yashica that works fine. You may need to finagle a bit with a bit of rubber to get the battery to sit in place properly, I haven't had to but I've read about it. The minor voltage difference between the mercury batteries and the replacements doesn't seem to matter. It does matter due to their discharge characteristics at the very least. Zinc-air is more like the old mercury while alkaline has more of a slope. Some cameras in the mercury days have built in regulators so it doesn’t matter for those cameras in particular but for cameras without you will be metering wrong. Sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. 
Megabound fucked around with this message at 03:36 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 03:27
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Huh. I didn't know that'd affect the meter, good to know. I have zinc-air in the one that works so that should be fine.
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May 4, 2024 03:36
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Grand Fromage posted:Huh. I didn't know that'd affect the meter, good to know. I have zinc-air in the one that works so that should be fine. Zinc-air, is best option without installing a regulator. You can install diode to drop the extra voltage a silver oxide will need but it doesn’t change the discharge curve so it is sub optimal. In general I recommend just learning sunny-16 so you can second guess your meter. It’s a great skill to have and it means when your battery or the meter dies on you that you can still shoot confidently and comfortably.
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May 4, 2024 03:50
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I’d love a Minolta ALS but I also know rangefinders are not for me and it’d be sold in short order Minolta ALS by konishiroku_, on Flickr
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May 4, 2024 04:01
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Can a range finder sort of fall out of calibration? My old Braun seems to have a discrepancy between the distances on the focusing ring vs the range finder. So like if something is eg 5m away, getting it in focus will have the lens indicating 6.5m or something like that. I haven't been able to actually check if all my shots are coming out unfocused or not because the first roll tore when I tried to rewind it 
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May 4, 2024 04:09
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Yes, that’s a common occurrence, many rangefinders have easily accessible screws for vertical and horizontal adjustment You set the rangefinder to infinity and look far away and adjust to that Megabound fucked around with this message at 04:23 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 04:18
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A Konica Hexar AF is fairly affordable (700-900cad) I have one and use it and love it, but you gotta be really okay with its limitations - 1/250th top speed, annoying button layout (if you constantly fiddle with settings this cam will be annoying to use). The pros are a great lens and lightning fast AF.
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May 4, 2024 20:34
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dupersaurus posted:What would y’all suggest as a low-entry 35mm rangefinder? Zorki 4 or similar. The earlier Zorki 1 is imho better but it requires you to trim the film leader and people can be a bit afraid of doing that. The Z-4 is basically the same but better. You can literally learn anything you need about photography with these basically manual RFs and it definitely hooked me into Rangefinders.
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May 4, 2024 23:59
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Recoome posted:Zorki 4 or similar. The earlier Zorki 1 is imho better but it requires you to trim the film leader and people can be a bit afraid of doing that. The Z-4 is basically the same but better. Just to add to this. The Soviet rangefinders are cheap and easy to find around. They are all based on pre-war German designs and shared(ish) lensmounts with their Western ancestors which means that there's a lot of really good glass for them. Basically there are two camps. FED and Zorki are based on the Leica II and every model of both of those have identical internals all the way through their production runs (from 1936 to the mid 80s). So the difference between FEDs and Zorkis or betewen different models of either mostly comes down to aesthetic preference, opportunity, and sometimes usability features like back loading or lightmeters. They both use the M39 lensmount. Kiev rangefinders are based on the Contax and use that lensmount. The big (BIG) caveat to buying Soviet camera gear is that it's cheap for a reason. Often it simply doesn't work. Sometimes it didn't work when it left the factory. Even if it works now, it will likely need some care and attention to keep it that way. FEDs and Zorkis have cloth shutters that are moved with silk ribbons. These rot and fray and need replacing after a while. Kievs have metal shutters but still have cloth ribbons to move them so need the same attention. Kievs are generally better made but this is grading on a curve. They weren't remotely as well made as Japanese or Western rangefinders of the same era. I'd recommend a Kiev II if you can find one that works. There's a better chance that it keeps working, and the shutter assempbly is better - not just the metal curtain, but also the range of shutter speeds.
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May 5, 2024 11:07
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 Flashy!
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May 5, 2024 16:04
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I have a dumb question. Let's say I'm taking a landscape shot with focus set to infinity, using a platonically ideal tripod on a still day, so there is zero camera movement and I have no concerns about achieving a particular DOF. If I can get the right exposure with both eg 1000 shutter speed and a relatively open aperture vs 500 and a smaller aperture, is there any optical quality reason I'd choose one over the other? Or will both result in identical photos?
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May 6, 2024 00:42
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Slavvy posted:I have a dumb question. There’s a certain aperture the lens will be sharpest at so ideally you look up what that is for your lens and set the shutter around that
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May 6, 2024 00:50
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dupersaurus posted:There’s a certain aperture the lens will be sharpest at so ideally you look up what that is for your lens and set the shutter around that Oh neat, is there like a rule of thumb for this? Idk if you can look stuff up for really old lenses
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May 6, 2024 01:03
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Depends on the lens but f8/f11 is fine.
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May 6, 2024 01:31
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Yeah generally around f/8 is good. Usually it's like a couple stops above maximum aperture to a couple stops below minimum aperture
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May 6, 2024 01:42
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That's great to know, I'll try applying that when I can. Thanks guys.
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May 6, 2024 02:11
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To add to the previous answers, lenses at their wide open apertures are often soft in the corners and sharpen up as the aperture closes. However after a certain point you get diffraction artifacts from having a very narrow aperture. Where this is, depends as others have said on the individual lens - for a lot of cheaper lenses this starts at f/13ish, better lenses might be fine up to f/22. Typically prime lenses have a wider range of sharp apertures, and lenses for medium or large format cameras are designed to remain sharp even at f/64 and beyond. The other thing that will change with a narrower aperture (apart from DoF, which you said you don't care about for this exercise), is that point light sources such as lamps will resolve to star shapes. At wider apertures they will be more blobby. However the difference in your example is only one stop, so the image shouldn't change very much from such a relatively small change in aperture.
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May 6, 2024 10:20
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Flash shopping questions: I don't want to end up having to buy a bunch of different units, and flash photography isn't exactly where my heart is set for most things anyway, but I do think it would open up some opportunities. For the olympus Om4Ti - is there any modern TTL high speed sync units that would work or will I be restricted to looking for the standard F280? A while back I was also out doing some climbing with some digital photographers and they had external flash units that they set off to the side of where they were shooting which I thought was pretty interesting - is there anything like that available for me?
Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 13:33 on May 6, 2024 |
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May 6, 2024 13:29
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Admiral Bosch posted:Flash shopping questions: I don't want to end up having to buy a bunch of different units, and flash photography isn't exactly where my heart is set for most things anyway, but I do think it would open up some opportunities. For the olympus Om4Ti - is there any modern TTL high speed sync units that would work or will I be restricted to looking for the standard F280? A while back I was also out doing some climbing with some digital photographers and they had external flash units that they set off to the side of where they were shooting which I thought was pretty interesting - is there anything like that available for me? AD200s have HSS and are agnostic of the camera platform. You'd need a compatible trigger like the Godox X-Pro O as well.
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May 6, 2024 14:37
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Helen Highwater posted:AD200s have HSS and are agnostic of the camera platform. You'd need a compatible trigger like the Godox X-Pro O as well. Okay, cool, thank you - when I am closer to buying something I will keep this in mind.  In the meantime it's time to have some fun with this... If the weather ever returns to being sunny.
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May 7, 2024 01:46
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Some dilapidated rusty things...   And some nicer Spring things...  
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May 7, 2024 02:08
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| # ? May 18, 2024 02:43 |
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^Nice! Re: Velvia 50. Roberts Camera had some in stock, they just arrived, and they have a decent expiration date (07/2025).
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May 7, 2024 02:18
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