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Mister Sinewave posted:I want to know what the best way to make a "cap" for this sonotube (roughly a 12" or so in diameter) I'm not entirely clear on what it is you want to do here. Stick a cylindrical "bulb" on the top of the tube? What's going to go in this "cap"? If you aren't set on having a cylindrical top, you could cut 1'-long, slightly-more-than-1'-wide sheets of plywood with 60° miter cuts on two edges, and fit them together into a hexagonal shape that'd have about the right "diameter".
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Aug 14, 2014 19:00
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KingColliwog posted:Cutting board (wild cherry and purple heart) That's some nice grain on this one. Why do you need resaw capability to make a box? Be aware that resawing a board changes the tensions between the fibers in the board, which can make it warp. I resawed a cedar 4/4 board into two ~1/4"-thick boards awhile back, and one of them cupped on me. I mean, this isn't disastrous, but you need to take it into consideration. If you need thin boards then you'll get more reliable (if more wasteful) results by using a thickness planer and alternating sides.
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Sep 14, 2014 15:25
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I'm not entirely sure what you're going for, but felt is a good go-to for projects like this.
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Oct 5, 2014 23:56
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Finished this up today: an insert for my sliding glass door so I can put a doggy door in it:  The hope is that, come winter, my dog will still be able to access the backyard while I'm at work, without the house itself getting too cold. Last year I just left the door open, and I mostly got away with it because I live in the Bay Area, but there were a few days that got kind of chilly.
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Oct 12, 2014 00:23
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Nice! I'm planning on doing something similar. Got the plans drafted, got a construction permit from the city, and then stalled out trying to find a concrete contractor who wasn't completely off their rocker. $12k for a 16'x24' slab, are you kidding me? I'm jealous of that driveway approach; I won't be able to swing anything like that due to the lot layout. Are you planning on any skylights, or just the two windows on the side with the door?
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Dec 15, 2014 03:15
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Dragyn posted:No one is going to complain. I have a similar thread. I follow 4 or 5 DIY threads that are like that. I'm planning to start a similar thread for my workshop project, which just got started -- the contractors started clearing ground for the foundation slab last Saturday. I'm gonna have so many questions to ask, I can just tell. Never done a serious construction job before; my biggest projects have been large picture frames, a standing desk, and a bedframe...for my dog (  ). So this is going to be interesting.
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Jan 26, 2015 03:15
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Started up a thread for my workshop project, which is just getting started.
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Jan 27, 2015 04:19
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Jesus, that's a closet? It's huge! I mean, nice work man, but goddamn. I'm pretty sure that's bigger than my dorm room was in college.
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Feb 12, 2015 05:15
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SpartanIV posted:I'd be careful of advertising though. If you use the name Settlers of Catan or something similar, you're almost certain to invoke some kind of lawsuit. I think there's a market there for sure though. As I understand it (and I'm not a lawyer), the name is trademarked, but the rules aren't copyrightable. So yeah, don't use the name, but you can wink-wink-nudge-nudge your way and be fine.
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Feb 26, 2015 16:31
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Looking great! But how are you going to handle the ports?
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Mar 7, 2015 17:30
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Nice work! The floor's rather dark for my tastes, but otherwise it looks good. I would recommend, however, that you get one of those plastic floor mats for your office chair before your floor gets all scratched to poo poo from rolling back and forth, like mine did 
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Apr 3, 2015 14:52
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bEatmstrJ posted:I thought about this but I didn't want to ugly up my floor with one of those mats. But I also don't want scratched floors either. So instead I just bought some rubberized wheels for my chair that won't scratch. Thanks for the heads up! Hm, that could work. Do also watch out for dirt and crap that can get caught in the wheels and rub against the floor, though.
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Apr 3, 2015 20:56
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Aggro posted:Is there an advice thread for DIY projects? This seems like the closest thing. The fix it fast thread is about as good a candidate as you're likely to get. This thread seems to be more for "look what I did!" posts. As for your question, I'd suggest an oscillating tool instead of a jigsaw, because you're going to have trouble getting nice flush cuts with a jigsaw. But yeah, cut off the drywall (typically 5/8" thick) and see what's under it and you'll have a lot more information to work with. It's possible there's some wood framing supporting the drywall that you'll need to cut out, and of course you should never assume there's no wiring (or gas lines) back there.
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Jul 9, 2015 01:14
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Looks nice; how secure is it?
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Aug 4, 2015 22:46
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Bad Munki posted:I used the same ones for my potato towers. They're treated but not at all surfaced, and they store them outside in the rain, so they tend to grow a little black and look pretty grungy in short order. But as was stated, they're dirt cheap. I bet the dirt is more expensive than that wood.
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Sep 10, 2015 21:12
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Set the tree on fire, let the automated sprinkler system a) put it out, and b) water it.
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Dec 7, 2015 23:32
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I dig this, but I'm curious how long it'll be before it gets completely patina'd over.
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Dec 27, 2015 01:08
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I've done some hand work with copper wire, and what rubs off on your fingers tastes awful. You're probably not going to die from consumption of copper oxide without noticing.
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Dec 27, 2015 21:05
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This looks super nice but I admit to being worried about the wood that's in contact with the ground. If it's not pressure-treated then it'll start rotting out relatively quickly. I guess part of this depends on how long you expect the play set to be in active use for; if you're planning on scrapping it in five years then it probably doesn't matter.
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May 16, 2016 01:14
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Okay then! I was expecting to see a contrast between pressure treated for ground contact and non-pressure-treated elsewhere, which is why I thought there was none. My mistake.
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May 16, 2016 01:48
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Be aware that sheetrocking ceilings is a pain in the rear end. I have no idea how hard drop ceilings are to install, though, so maybe they're even worse.  But if you go with sheetrock, you're definitely going to want help. A 4'x8' sheet weighs on the order of 50 pounds, and is quite fragile; imagine trying to hold that in position over your head while standing on a ladder and drilling screws in to hold it up.Making drywall look nice is also rather fiddly work with drywall mud and tape. Nowhere near as physically difficult, but it's easy to do a bad job and leave visible seams between panels.
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May 23, 2016 18:33
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FISHMANPET posted:But otherwise it's not toooo horrible to do with two people. When I was a teenager my dad and I sheetrocked our basement by doing a couple of sheets a night. Maybe with another grownup or two you could knock it out in a weekend day. Fun fact from my workshop project: I put in 56 square feet in 2'x4' panels in one day (on the underside of a surface as is being discussed here), and by the end my right hand was so tired from using my drill that I had trouble performing basic tasks like typing or chopping vegetables with it. I was putting in screws every 4" or so, mind you. No idea what the recommended spacing is, but for "suspended" drywall like this I didn't trust larger gaps to not eventually tear through.
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May 23, 2016 19:04
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Looks good; congrats on your first woodworking project. The great thing about buying tools is you don't have to count them in the budget for the project, because you get to keep them for future projects!
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Aug 2, 2016 23:07
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Tev posted:Nah, it's something to do with the GPIO pins not being accessible by Apache's user, www-data. Not worth the trouble. Thank you for the offer though. You could set up a local service that the Apache user can communicate with. Have a script running (as a user that can access GPIO pins) that listens on port 31337 or something, and the Apache user should be able to connect to localhost:31337 and send messages to that script.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:18
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Nice! But why do you have a separate meter? Wouldn't it make more sense to just route through the house meter instead of going straight out to utility power? Or are you already doing that and just using the meter for your own personal tracking of how much electricity your workshop uses?
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Oct 20, 2016 16:58
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Fair enough! Have fun welding all the things.
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Oct 20, 2016 17:21
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Bad Munki posted:BOTH kinds of screwdriver You mean, star drive and Robertson? 
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Oct 20, 2016 17:38
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How water-impermeable is that sealed concrete floor? My kneejerk reaction is that you should use pressure-treated wood for the stringers, since they're in direct contact, but maybe with the sealing it's okay? Or maybe that is treated and I just can't tell. My other thought is to wonder how stable the staircase is. Is the landing secured to the walls somehow? I live in California, so I get to worry about that kind of stuff...but then again, is there any fracking near where you live? Even if the staircase is stable, if it isn't secured down somehow it might "wander" a little each time you climb up/down.
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Dec 5, 2016 18:16
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Okay, you've pre-empted all my feedback then.  Looking good!
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Dec 5, 2016 19:06
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Atticus_1354 posted:I would do a nice board with sharpened pegs sticking up. Then you can stick the grapes and hotdog chunks on so they wont roll away and the child can easily grasp them. A pallet board with some rusty nails, check. Maybe use something like 1/8" dowels instead of sharpened pegs.
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May 1, 2017 22:27
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Motronic posted:This is awesome and I want to buy axes from you. Is there a problem with paint beyond that it's obviously going to get scratched/chipped off? I could see it maybe helping to preserve the bulk of the axe head, though obviously the paint closer to the edge won't last very long at all.
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Oct 23, 2017 01:10
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Ropes4u posted:Found the homeowner who doesn’t live with five dogs. We will never have carpet in a home by choice, tile, wood, or anything else for us. Of those, wood is the clear winner for bedrooms. Tile is for bathrooms, kitchens, and mud rooms IMO. I can't imagine the hell of trying to clean five dogs' worth of shed fur out of a carpet, though. You'd be changing vacuum cleaner bags every five feet. At least with hardwood you can sweep up most of it.
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Feb 4, 2018 19:17
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That looks really nice! And I'm laughing at the cost per planter -- I'm seriously contemplating making some brick planters for my back yard as an excuse to learn some basic masonry, and it's gonna take waaay longer and cost a lot more, I'm sure. Did your kids seriously fill those planters one handful of dirt at a time?
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May 29, 2018 02:34
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Thanks, but I'll pass. I don't really have a good place for that kind of planter anyway, nice as they look.
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May 29, 2018 03:07
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I decided to take a stab at bricklaying, by adding a brick planter to my back yard. Step one: cut out some excess concrete that was in the way: I planned to remove some of the dirt under the concrete, then put it back in-place to serve as a foundation. But it turns out that underneath the concrete was a cemented-in cobblestone path, so I just used that as the foundation instead.  Laying the first two courses took me about two hours. For 38 bricks. I also went through an entire 80-pound bag of mortar, granted that I had to use a lot of it to get a reasonably flat starting surface. Stupid cobblestones.  All done with the bricklaying. It's a bit uneven, but should be plenty strong enough. The biggest thing I learned while doing this was how much of a difference the amount of water in the mortar makes. The instructions on the bag just say to avoid a soupy mix, but what they don't tell you is that you want just this side of soupy. It needs to be pretty wet to spread and adhere well! And it dries out while you're working, so I had to keep adding more water and re-mixing as I went. The five courses (95 bricks) shown above made for a cavity that was about 12" deep. It'd be more, but I dumped some leftover mortar in the bottom. Speaking of which,  Apparently this is what you get if you dump a bunch of wet mortar. It looks kind of like bread; as far as I can tell it's basically just barely-held-together very fine sand. Anyway, one quick trip to a nursery and the planter's full:   All in all, bricklaying was easier than I'd feared it would be. It's pretty slow going (for an amateur's first effort anyway), but I like the result better than I would have liked an equivalently-sized and -placed wooden planter. And there's a nice feeling from making a permanent modification to my home. I've already bought another hundred bricks to put another planter on the other side of that walkway.
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Jun 16, 2018 22:00
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FogHelmut posted:It's curing, not drying out. Adding more water will weaken the mix. You want to mix up smaller batches as you go. Noted. Are you constantly mixing up new batches of mortar as you go, then? It seems to cure awfully quickly. Fortunately, there's only five short courses here, and they don't exactly have to sustain a lot of load, so I don't think weakness will be a huge problem.
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Jul 1, 2018 03:24
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Super 3 posted:This is awesome and I've been thinking of doing something similar. How are you accounting for drainage? I drilled some holes in the mortar near the bottom; that's it. If I'd been thinking about it when I laid the first course I would've just intentionally left a gap in the mortar at intervals. I guess I could've put some gravel in as well. Time will tell if I hosed this up. But we don't usually get the kind of sustained heavy rains here that would cause the planter to flood, so I think it'll be OK.
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Jul 2, 2018 20:43
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It looks nice! I wouldn't worry about the strength of the liquid nails; all it has to do is keep the counter from sliding horizontally. It's not like you're going to be tipping the thing sideways or trying to pull the top off.
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Jul 5, 2018 16:47
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Lhet posted:Obviously you'd want to test this on some scraps, but maybe you could drill a row of holes where you want to bend, heat up and bend along the row of holes? All the heat would be in those bridges and would dissipate as soon as it got to the main solid body. If that somehow worked you could fill in the gaps after it's bent with a nice contrasting color of resin, which you could sand down to level and get that nice curve. As an alternative, you could make a series of shallow cuts across the plastic to create an area that's locally thin, which should make folding easier. I've seen people do that to make flexible joints in wood, usually with a laser cutter, but the same principle ought to apply in plastic. At the very least it'd make it easier to heat the joint to where it can be manipulated.
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Oct 17, 2018 15:02
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The other issue with 3D printers is you have to be willing to accept having a machine in your house going weent-err-weent-err-weent-err brrrrr vzz vzz vzz vzz vzz for hours on end.
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Oct 29, 2018 01:29
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