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Truth, never use gloves with rotating machines.
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Apr 26, 2014 04:17
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I figured this would be a good place to ask if anyone knew where to buy chisel handles.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:17
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Okay the beginning of the piano project. Right now it's just breakdown work. If those keys are actually ivory or have ivory covered tops glued on, you should probably consider selling them. They are worth a lot on the second hand market.
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Jul 21, 2015 02:35
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MrPete posted:I'd send it back post haste. You pulled flakes of metal out of the threads man, how good is the rest of it gonna be. I got to futz with the handibot last year or there abouts at the NYC makerfaire and it was pretty great. The surface area it cuts is pretty small but it can do really cool joinery for boxes and stuff. They also had a demo of holding it to a wall an doing art relief carvings. While I was there one of their engineers threw a laser inside the machine and I tossed him some sample materials to see what it could cut but it mostly just turned out to be nice for doing wood burning art. All in all, the shopbot guys were pretty cool and the handibot is like the cheapest thing they make.
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Aug 1, 2015 14:08
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mds2 posted:I don't disagree with this, and that is where I got the idea. I worked in a grocery store meat department for a while. Well that is why you buy a meat cutting bandsaw instead of a wood one. Stainless steel and sealed for hose down plus they tend to have throat depths literally the size of a cow and sliding tables you can put a slab on. Just put a VFD on the motor so you can speed it up for cutting wood.
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Sep 16, 2015 04:09
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Cakefool posted:So we all know the number of clamps you need is n+1, where n is the number you currently possess. I broke 2 clamps today, how many replacements should I buy? Sears sells a set of 30 but your local store may not stock it.
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Oct 5, 2015 01:58
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Granite Octopus posted:Getting ot sorry, but you could look at diying it with a cheap bar fridge and a thermostat/relay setup to control the temperature to your liking. I've seen kits at the local electronics shop for exactly this purpose but depending on how much you're into electronics you could diy the whole thing pretty easy. A normal compressor type fridge sounds more reliable than some gimcrack peltier setup to me. Peltier devices at that size are a bit of a pain and it will probably die in 2 to 3 years, but the reason wine fridges all run Peltier coolers is because they don't create vibrations like a compressor does that are supposed to be bad for the wine.
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Oct 10, 2015 04:04
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thespaceinvader posted:For serious. I managed to put my chisel in my arm at pretty much the exact same spot as him. I didn't take pictures though. I was trying to clean up on something that didn't quiet fit after I had just done all the heavy cutting and just didn't bother to clamp it because I was in a hurry and the piece sort of spun in place then fractured in half and the chisel came straight through it into my arm all before I could really process what was happening. I got extremely lucky that the chisel was sideways and passed between the 2 bones in my forearm without cutting any tendons but I still had to have my forearm immobilized for a while because wrist movement would tear the stitches. Trying to save 2 minutes cost me months of time and remains one of my most visible lessons learned to date.
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Oct 14, 2015 03:22
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Keep hitting up estate sales. Eventually you will luck out and get all the planes you can want for like $5 a piece. Also try to find some woodworkers swap meets. Around here there is a store called woodcraft that hosts one twice a year and last time I picked up two nice japanese hand planes and a 1950's craftsman table saw for $50 plus some other stuff.
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Oct 26, 2015 01:47
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The harbor freight woodworking bench is pretty janky. It's lightweight and not overly solid and if you are planning on cutting mortises with chisels I don't think it will survive for very long. The small clamp benches have the same problem, they are nice for little space and holing things while you tinker but won't survive much real work. Impact tends to kill them quick. I recommend your first project be to build a really solid bench that fits the space you have to work in. I don't have much space so I recently picked up a jaw horse ($100 from lowes) to hold my pieces while I plane them and I do my chiseling on my bench which is up against a wall. For starting, I would get a rabbet plane and a bench smoothing plane (stanley no 4 being really common). To true up the sole and blade, don't futz about with glass; get on enco.com and buy a certified surface plate, they cost $50 or less these days and you can get a 20% off coupon and free delivery if you are willing to get on the email list and wait a few hours. I measured the one I got and it actually held up at least to the accuracy of my measuring tools, so you know you will have a perfectly flat plane. Clamps are going to be what you need most. The aluminum extruded guide clamps from harbor freight are actually pretty good deals. Don't bother with the friction ones with the triggers, they wear out in about a year. Pipe clamps are great for bigger projects. Get some band clamps if you want to make boxes with mitered corners or picture frames especially if you want angles other than 90 degrees. Other than that, a decent dovetail saw can be had for as little as $20 and is really practical for all sorts of small cuts. Dovetails by hand are all about practice. You need some sort of miter saw and guide, not the cheap plastic box from sears. Get a rubber mallet or a woodworkers hammer. You will need a "persuader".
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Dec 28, 2015 17:58
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RadioPassive posted:Drill bits I don't know, but my chisels don't go anywhere near my grinder. I have a set of stones for real rough blade repair and I use Scary Sharp for the final edge. Frequently; if you use the right wheel you can get them nice and sharp fast and then you just finish them on a high grit stone. It is also incredibly useful for repairing a chisel that happens to hit a hidden nail in the board or get dropped edge first onto cement. For lathe chisels, most people don't bother finishing past the grinder because they just wear to fast for it to be worth it.
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Dec 28, 2015 22:26
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Raerlynn posted:Any thoughts on what kind of grit we're talking? I'm tempted to pick up a cheap Ryobi or Wen. The grit is fairly low, typically a few hundred max but most of what you see tops out below 200 and like a few other people have said, it is mostly used for repair work or sharpening lathe tools. What you need to look for is a friable wheel. Friable means that the wheel breaks down easily which allows it to cut cleaner, faster, and cooler making it suitable for high speed steel tools like chisels. The rate of wear on your wheel can be high if you go with a white (most friable) wheel so you may want to look into a longer lasting red one. Especially if you are sharpening tools that are narrower than the wheel such as gouges. You can also get leather or rubber finishing wheels that you use as a mechanical strop and polish with rouge. You can also build a wood one to do the same polishing work. I've seen wood turners build wood stropping wheels into the head of their lathes so that they can touch up sharpen without walking away from their work as well. You can use the stock grey wheels for tools, but make sure you get at least a fine grit wheel as they normally come with coarse and medium which are fine for lawnmower blades but not so much for precise tools like for your wood working. If you use a stock grey wheel you will have to be very careful about overheating your tool and dress it frequently to get a good even edge like DAAS Kapitalist said. Also, if you can't free hand on a stone, then make a guide for your grinder before sharpening. Those little plate guides they come with suck for chisels and free handing on a wheel will just let you mess up your tool faster. p.s. biggest wheel is best wheel.
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Dec 29, 2015 16:31
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If you go to harbor freight for clamps it has been my experience that these style clamps http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-68975.html aren't great. They tend to wear out after not to long and never give much clamping force to begin with. I like their Aluminum extruded bar clamps that Cpt.Wacky linked though. Their C clamps and whatnot are fine too, just check the screw action on them before you buy it in the store as sometimes their castings are overly rough. Also make sure you have your 20% off coupon and free whatever with every purchase. All in all, they work well enough but are more annoying to use than something like bessey because of the rougher quality of their finishing. At 1/5th the price though, it is a great way to begin stocking your shop. quick edit: I bought 4 of the specific ones you linked, BUGS OF SPRING, and 3 of them have been troopers (only like 3 months old) but one broke the day after I bought it. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 19:01
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GEMorris posted:Those that regularly use belt Sanders, what are you doing with them? I don't doubt folks find them useful, I'm just struggling to think of a furniture making operation that needs something that aggressive. I bought one to refinish my deck. I've also clamped one up and used it as an impromptu shaper when I didn't have access to a band saw but I've never used one on furniture.
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Feb 15, 2016 21:09
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Hypnolobster posted:I use a mdf top for my assembly table, 1.25 thick. It stands up to mft style modified bar clamps without a problem. I don't think it'd do as well with hold fasts. I use an MDF top so I can abuse it and not care, but once you drill a hole in it (like for a bench dog) I've found that the edges of that hole go fast and then start peeling the surrounding area before long.
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Feb 23, 2016 03:48
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Butch Cassidy posted:My wife spent last night watching some Peter Brown and the kids kept making me leave autoplay going because they thought the projects were cool. I got the stepped pulley version of this little lathe for $50 0n Craigslist in Dallas a while back. It is very capable for making tool handles, pens, fly rod handles, etc. The guy I got it from got rid of it because it was to small to do bowls like he wanted. edit: On closer inspection this is a MT1 lathe. I have an MT2 which is both more common and capable. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 16:27
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His Divine Shadow posted:I have a diamond grinder for carbide and just on a lark I decided to try and hone one of my wood lathe tools on it and holy hell how it cut after that. Never had any tool cut like that when turning wood. What are your lathe tools made out of? High speed steel really benefits from diamond.
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Apr 27, 2020 18:16
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Definitely get as much as you can with the scraper before sanding. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Have any of you used a laser cutter to cut veneer/do marquetry? Can it cut male and female pieces that marry nicely or does it leave a black line around the edge? I've seen razor knife CNC plotters specifically for doing veneer cuts but that's not practical unless that's literally your business. You might be able to get a similar effect with a vinyl cutter/plotter though. Never seen it done, just an idea.
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May 7, 2020 17:33
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Stultus Maximus posted:Yeah, lead paint is really great for endurance and really not for removal. Lead paint is unironically great except that it kills children. On an aside, I ruined a bandsaw blade and can't bring myself to throw out 60 inches of good spring steel. Any advice on making marking knives and scratch stock out of it? I have an unfortunate habit of overheating things on the grinder when I'm not being careful.
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May 9, 2020 02:26
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Olothreutes posted:Isn't that just a futon at that point? You can get a perfectly adequate table saw on Craigslist for $50 if you just want occasional use. The true cost of a table saw isn't measured in dollars though, it's measured in space. How often would you use it, would you want to transport it, how much ease of use/quality of life do you want?
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May 10, 2020 21:14
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Olothreutes posted:So someone a few cities to the south is selling a shopsmith table saw. What the hell is this thing? ShopSmiths were popular in the 80s and have a bit of a cult following these days. You find them anywhere from $200 to $2000 depending on how cleaned up it is and what accessories it comes with. Like Jeeves says, it does everything but it's not great at anything. The motor on it slides on those rails to engage whatever attachment you have and then you lock everything in place for working. The motor itself is pretty decent but the saws tables are all lacking and like Jeeves also pointed out, these were designed back before safety features were really a thing and never really updated in that respect. I used one for a while and while I enjoyed it, it honestly doesn't save you a ton of space since you still have to store the attachments which are all roughly the size of an equivalent stand alone benchtop powertool but it does roll easy enough to move around the garage. It's also twice the footprint of a typical Craftsman 10" table saw. The "lathe" is pretty decent for spindle turning but if I recall correctly, they aren't a common thread size for chuck attachments so you have to buy the fancy ShopSmith one.
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May 10, 2020 23:22
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Elysium posted:Does this seem like a good deal? / Is this a decent saw? Seconding that $200 is too much for that saw. I don't know where you are at but in Texas, Maryland, and Pennsylvania I could grab those frequently for $50-100 NomNomNom posted:Good deal? That's actually the same lathe I have currently. It's a decent lathe from Craftsman in the 90s and worth about that price. The head is reversible for outboard turning and you can do a 12in bowl on it, bigger really, but I haven't tried. It's 2HP max realized power so it's not as strong as you might think if you just read 2HP but you should guess that from the 110V outlet. Just let it come up to speed when you adjust it. Variable speed is about 400 to 2000 RPM by turn dial and it has a safety so you can't turn the lathe on unless the RPM is set to 0. 2 MT head and tail stock so it works with pretty much everything off the shelf. It should come with a pair of thin wrenches for the reatining/seperation nut on the drive head but it's not a huge deal if he doesn't have them. Craftsman also made a duplicator for it if you can find it for doing stuff like banister railings. 2 Warnings, it doesn't look like he has the outboard tool rest so you may have to make your own if you want to do large 10"+ bowls, and that is also the loudest lathe I've ever used. I was worried about the bearings the first time I turned it on but apparently the drive mechanism used in that model just sounds like that. The Sorby tools are good quality and look like they've never been used (or at least never sharpened). They run about $100 new for that set so the whole shebang for $250 is pretty decent. The set is a bowl gouge, a spindle gouge, a round nose scraper, a parting tool, a roughing gouge, and an oval skew. Personally, I don't like that oval skew but everyone is different. If you've never run a lathe before I recommend getting a cup/safety drive for the head which run about $40 new. It'll make learning a skew so much nicer and actually has almost no downside. The drive in the lathe currently is the 4 prong spur drive that came with that model.
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May 15, 2020 01:04
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The Spookmaster posted:Yea I did the relief carving first and then used my awful harbor freight block plane to arch the top. Not pictured is the absurd amount of sanding to clean everything up. Looks to clean, and that backdrop for the photos? It's clearly a trap. I've bought a lot of those in the $100-200 range but always the older models and never anywhere near that clean. Does he have blades for it? Are the tires flat because he never turned it on and left it tensioned?
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Jun 4, 2020 02:48
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Stan Taylor posted:I've never done any real kind of woodworking but I've been wanting to learn how to make a simple shelf or table. I must have mentioned this around my SOs family because they got me a little three piece wood chisel set for christmas last year. I have no clue what to use these for. Quarantine has me thinking I'd like to build some small stands for my synths, like this. What other tools would I need for a little project like that? I have a drill/driver set and a basic hand saw for the yard, but I'd probably want something that could cut along a template, right? I don't have a dedicated space for like a whole rear end workshop and my garage doesn't have power running to it. I just have no clue where to begin. I would like to learn a new skill and also not buy a bunch of dumb overkill powertools, though getting new powertools is pretty cool. Not sure what kind of hand saw you have but it might work. A circular saw and a hand drill can make a stand like that and won't take up much space if you have a good table and you're careful about how you work. A tablesaw or bandsaw would work better but obviously they take up dedicated space while a circular saw is a (powered) hand tool. You'll need something to sand the corners and edges round to get it just like their's but you can do that by hand if you are patient. Chisels are typically used for carving, creating grooves and rebates, or cleaning up edges or cuts. They're handy.
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Jun 7, 2020 18:16
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:This might be a hot take to some but I think they would have more success doing that specific project with a jigsaw over a circular saw if they dont have much tool experience. Itll definitely have a more organic feel but they will hopefully be able to sand out any jigsaw inconsistency whereas a circular saw is less forgiving. The little stand would probably be easier with a jigsaw, but I was figuring they also wanted to try making tables and shelves and a circular saw is a nicer for long straight cuts. I should have also said to go drop $20 at Harbor freight on clamps to hold everything while you cut it too.
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Jun 7, 2020 18:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you wanna give me a lathe and an extension to my shop so I can fit it in there, please feel free! Ya knooooow, those Jet benchtop lathes are surprisingly capable and can be found second hand for $100 or less here or there.
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Jun 9, 2020 19:40
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JEEVES420 posted:um...where? Even the 1015 can't be found for less than $300 within 500 miles of here. I got my first lathe (the previous version of the Jet 1015) for $75 in Dallas with a set of Harbor freight chisels. It was an absolute steal. But I've seen em pop up in the Rural Pennsylvania and West Virginia area several times in the approximately $100 range when I lived there. Mainly it's people upgrading to something bigger. Prices on lathes are oddly cyclical and they'll be expensive for a while, then cheap for a while, then go back up. I guess you can only turn so many bowls and baseball bats before you run out of places to put them. You also have to be willing to drive a bit. If it's near the city core or close in suburbs mini lathes will usually get picked up in minutes if they are a good price. I've had wildly different success on Craigslist and the like depending on where I am. Craigslist in Dallas is great while Austin where I currently am mostly sucks. I'm fortunate enough to drive around between cities a lot for work so I sometimes pick things up and bring them back when I'm out and about. For instance, there is a craftsman lathe in Corpus Christi right now for $15 that needs a motor. It's a bit big but for a $50 trip to harbor freight for a new motor and belt you'd have a reasonably capable lathe. There's a Reliant mini lathe in Houston right now for $75, but those aren't nearly as nice as the Jets.
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Jun 9, 2020 21:44
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Vier posted:Can I just buy whole logs for woodturning? Blanks from specialist woodturning blank stores seem very expensive and there is a local tree surgeon that will sell me whole logs by the bag load at a fraction of the price. If you know a guy that does a tree service you're set but mostly you just have to keep an eye out. You can buy logs but they usually won't be any cheaper, in fact they will be more expensive unless you pick them up from a portable sawmill yourself because shipping things that large is expensive. Get whatever you can and cut it to size with a chainsaw then seal the end grain with a wax sealer like Anchorseal or they will split and crack as they dry. When you cut them into blanks pay attention to the direction of the grain vs your cut as this will impact how the blank behaves when you turn it. Then you have to decide if you want to turn it while green or dry it first. Drying without a kiln can take a long time, which is sped up if you turn it first then dry it. You can also buy green blanks from a number of sources usually at a discount over dry blanks. Jhet posted:How do you think they make the blanks? Of course you can, just cut them down to size with a saw or something before you start turning it. I imagine all the bark shrapnel would be a little more obnoxious than the regular material. Just know that the logs will not have been dried, so you're using wetter wood, but I don't think that's actually a problem for the most part when turning. Bark isn't bad with a roughing gouge. Green turning is easier to cut but the wood is more prone to tearing. It'll also gunk your tools with pitch that needs acetone/mineral spirits/turpentine to clean and some woods will stain your hands/clothes when you work it. Mostly, it's hard to find wood that hasn't cracked or started rotting before you got to it, storing it for drying can be a hassle if you're hard up for space, and you'll lose some number of pieces that you turn green because they will split or warp while drying more Edit: Vier posted:I was unsure if there was a lot of additional work that would be required, I just watched a youtube video and it seems I need to cut them down, rough turn them, seal them for a few months, and then finish them off. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 21:53
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Bad Munki posted:I’ve turned black palm. It sucked. Looked pretty enough, though. Nothing really wrong with the posting style. When turning extremely soft or fibrous materials, I've had some luck turning them with a rasp rather than trying to use a chisel or gouge. I've never turned palm though. Maybe try hitting it with sanding sealer?
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Jun 25, 2020 18:34
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shovelbum posted:the cspam off-site that has been growing insanely rapidly This sounds like hell honestly.
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Jun 25, 2020 20:33
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It does bring up the question, oil or paste wax for best Tortoise shell shine?
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Jun 26, 2020 17:41
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks, it's all cut by hand. If you click the question mark to see my post history i did a little tutorial a while back on how i do it. I find it very relaxing, almost meditative. You do just amazing work man, and you didn't even make a dead butterfly!
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Jul 10, 2020 03:29
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Mr. Mambold posted:So the little motor on that thing, that's a good thing in this case. It really could have hosed you up to the E.R. Broken pelvis, pierced gut, any number of things. It's only 1 HP! You ever get kicked by a horse?
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Jul 12, 2020 03:57
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Mr. Mambold posted:Have you ever seen a grown man naked, Timmy? I know what HP it is. It's tiny for a table saw. I've had kickbacks. Was ripping a long narrow piece one time and the saw just launched it right past me like a spear. I was just lucky. poo poo just happens over time. I'm not trying to make fun of anyone, especially as I've had my own share of tool related injuries. While I've never been directly injured by my table saw, I have had to patch sheet-rock from it while doing some house work. Just glad no one got seriously hurt here.
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Jul 12, 2020 15:19
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His Divine Shadow posted:All you people talking about kickbacks, you have riving knives or not? I actually own a table saw with a riving knife for the first time ever as of last weekend.
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Jul 12, 2020 20:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah that’s some serious jackleg engineering. For $20 though I’d buy it-there’s some good parts in there, just don’t ever actually use it as built. Either the motor or the pillow blocks in that picture are worth the price if it works. I'd buy it if I had room to dismantle it at the time.
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Jul 25, 2020 02:19
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Flea Bargain posted:So I'm considering building the workbench from Woodworking for Humans here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rOHuC_yuV4 I built something very similar for wood carving. While the bench is relatively small and you can pick it up, it will still be surprisingly heavy to lift and move. Since you sit on the bench and the work piece itself for larger boards, you can get away with making the bench smaller if you want to save on weight and increase portability. That or move it turned upright on a dolly. Anyways, it's easy to add width before attaching the legs so make sure you're happy with both weight and size it before you do. The bench will be most comfortable sitting around knee height so consider where it will be before you stick a bunch on attachments on the sides that will catch your shins. As everyone else has said, a vice is incredibly handy even on a bench like this. If you want to make the vice yourself, consider something like the old roman holdfast where you have some holes for stops drilled in the bench and then a single arm vice that drives the work piece against it. Alternatively, the standard woodworkers bench vice is a great investment and I often find myself clamping even other vices in it for various projects. To give you an idea of what I mean, I have a pipe vice for holding round/irregular stock which I mounted on a wood block. I can clamp that wood base into my wood vise and whenever I need it. It's your bench and pretty cheap so consider adding and removing different things to try them out and see what you like.
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Jul 31, 2020 15:03
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I started to put a pull out shelf under mine to hold some clamps, stop blocks etc, but since I like to move it around, the extra weight just added up to fast and I scrapped the idea. Space is always an issue now and forever and good power tools take up a lot of it. A good miter saw is really nice to have though. Lately you've been able to get nice used radial arm saws for dirt cheap but they take up so much drat space which is probably why people are getting rid of them.
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Jul 31, 2020 19:24
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Vier posted:Does anyone have any advice on what budget table saw I should get for less than £300? I imagine most people don't know what prices are like in your neck of the woods. Are there some models you have in mind?
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Aug 2, 2020 21:08
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Rutibex posted:I just bought a cheap lathe on amazon because I'm going crazy. I want to use it to make chess pieces and harry potter wands out of scrap wood. Is this the correct thread for posting in? Probably Definitely
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Aug 4, 2020 20:38
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