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What does a True RMS meter do for me? My meter is an old Simpson True RMS DMM. I've taken a circuits class and a signals class, so I have a pretty good idea of what RMS means. I guess what I really would want to know is what the "false" RMS meters are doing.
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# ¿ Jan 23, 2011 21:07 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 15:28 |
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Would a light sensor/motion sensor on the light work for your wife? The light sensor gives the same on at dusk, off at dawn effect, without pulling tons of wire.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2011 18:48 |
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Your first post, with the pictures shows your projector rated at 200W. At 240V, that means it draws an amp or so. A 1A fuse will work here. Wikipedia says only 2 (black or blue), 3 (red), 5 (black or grey), 10 (black or yellow), and 13 (brown) amps are commonly found. 2A will work.
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2011 23:45 |
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Your thermostat can be replaced from the front. If you take the old one off the wall, what does it look like? Also, in my area it's cold enough that I wouldn't want to be without heat. How long can you go without heat (or cooling, if you are in the southern hemisphere) if the new thermostat doesn't work, or you have to do substantial work?
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2011 20:58 |
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I pay 3.59c/kwh + $4.10/month. At an old place I had a auto-read meter. It apparently had an internal battery that died, so the last two months I was there were estimated. The LCD display was blank even. I was ready to fight whatever bill they were going to send, but the company's estimates were really low-balled, like half of what I thought we actually used.
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# ¿ Jun 2, 2012 00:33 |
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grover posted:Absolutely. But even so, there's still a live hot wire in a light fixture with a switch leg. Nobody should ever be using a light switch as protection against shock anyhow- open the breaker! Do you require Lock-out/tag-out to change lightbulbs in your house?
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2012 22:47 |
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Bad Munki posted:These are the fixtures that are in there now: Air is flowing from whatever space is above your garage into your garage, bringing dirt along with it. Notice the screw blocked the air, resulting in less dirt in that area.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2012 22:23 |
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Are these any better than leaving a power adapter plugged in all the time? I still lose a plug, and it still sucks down power when not in use. Having two plugs and two usb ports would take care of the first problem, but wont the USB ports get covered up if you have a transformer plug?
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2012 00:04 |
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asdf32 posted:I have plans to rewire most of my house over time and one thing I'm considering is installing this wire duct in the basement. The main beam in the basement has probably a dozen wires coming and going and going to/from the walls above. I'd love to neaten it up. I've worked on equipment that uses that type of race. When you install the cover, you have to snap in each finger individually, and the fingers like to break off all over the place. Those clips look like a better idea.
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2013 14:22 |
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Is the motor used to turn the platform, or used for something else and just happens to be on the platform?
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2013 01:00 |
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poxin posted:So I just got a NEST thermostat and it appears after many hours of tech support that I need a 24v C wire to power the NEST. Using the voltage on the Y/Cool wire is making it drop too low and it shuts the switch off. Problem is I can't find a C terminal/hookup on the control board. Anyone have any ideas? Use the common on the transformer. In the diagram, 24 VAC common is shown on the lower right. This looks like it has the same diagram, if you want to look at a cleaned up version: http://igate.northernplumbing.com/manuals/goodman/pgb.pdf
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# ¿ May 23, 2013 01:16 |
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Why don't you just label the existing wires and hook it up the same?
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2013 19:55 |
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So this happened: How is this lamp supposed to come apart? I don't want to replace the whole thing.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2013 22:19 |
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It's an Edison socket, but only has about one thread. The rest of the inside is unthreaded. Also, it's a pendant light, so I have 3' of slack between the ceiling and the socket. E: Well, with a finer tool, I managed to bend the tab into the right place. Still thinking about replacing it for the satisfaction of throwing the old one away. Guy Axlerod fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Jun 30, 2013 |
# ¿ Jun 30, 2013 00:16 |
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It has a rating of CMG.quote:— CMP (PLENUM):
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2013 22:12 |
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A two pole GFCI breaker can work on both Hot-Hot and Hot-Neutral circuits. Think about how a single pole GFCI breaker works. It essentially compares the current out and current in. Now, it isn't really measuring each leg individually. It measures it all together, and ends up with the sum. If the sum is non-zero, indicating a ground fault, the GFCI trips. A two-pole GFCI works the same way. Current can goes out on one hot leg, and either returns on the other hot leg, or on the neutral. The breaker measures the current on both hots and the neutral, and if it is non-zero, the breaker trips.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2013 01:44 |
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kid sinister posted:Yeah, but a 2 pole GFCI breaker would have 2 potential hot-neutral circuits. Don't most 240V appliances with 120V features put them all on only one hot leg? Yes, and the breaker does not care.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2013 23:05 |
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I have a leak under my kitchen sink, so I was emptying everything out. I noticed that the power for the garbage disposal is just some romex that comes out of a hole in the wall, shared with the PVC drain line. That isn't up to code, is it?
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2013 15:21 |
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New Leaf posted:It has always been floating in the middle. I can try to force it into the Off position, but I was afraid of messing something up. This is standard procedure. Turn it to off, then to on.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 14:12 |
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ShadowStalker posted:Yep, they recommend you replace the battery on the battery backup smoke detectors at least once a year. I've let one go for years without replacing the battery to see how long it would be until the battery was low enough where I got the low battery notification (It's a spare bedroom with nothing in it and there's a smoke detector right outside of it in the hallway). The battery lasted 4 years before I started getting the chirping that notifies you that battery replacement is needed. I'd still replace them at least once a year to be safe. What's the point of hard-wired smoke alarms if you still have to replace the battery every year? Or did I misunderstand, and it's a single, central battery?
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2013 22:45 |
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some texas redneck posted:The battery is there so that the smoke detectors can still function during a power failure. Losing power in a house when it's, you know, ON FIRE is par for the course; wouldn't it suck if a fire started on the other side of the house, burned through the wiring for your smokes, and/or tripped the breaker for the smoke detectors, before you ever woke up? You'd wake up dead.. I understand the point of having backup power, I just figured that they would use a rechargeable battery, or a supercap. Something that would last more than one year.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2013 13:18 |
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I guess what I don't understand is why someone would pay extra for a hard-wired system when they still have to replace the batteries? I understand you get the whole-house alarm, but couldn't a wireless system do the same thing?
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2013 14:12 |
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What does the oven's owner's manual say?
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2013 04:15 |
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What would that outlet be for if it can't handle a standard kitchen appliance? When you find the fuse, I'd be interested to know what the rating is.Cyril Sneer posted:Don't have it - its just what came with the apartment. Find the model number, and google it.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2013 14:12 |
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Was the room pre-wired for a fan? Someone will probably come in and say how great those things are, but I'm going to say to get a real volt meter. The wires might be too close and the thing you have will alert to either wire when either of them is on.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 13:50 |
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In my mind, a real volt meter will have two important features:
I haven't shopped for a meter in a while, so I don't know what's out there to give a specific recommendation.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 17:43 |
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What voltage did your old transformer put out? I guess I'd start by checking the voltage between the Black and White wires (As shown on your diagram) on each bell while the front button is pressed. You'll need a helper. Then I'd disconnect one bell at a time to see if the other works when it's alone on the circuit.
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2013 23:23 |
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Couldn't you just use an electrical box and install an outlet in it?
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2013 14:33 |
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If the chandelier is on a chain, you could put the box in a more accessible location, and a hook where you want it to hang from. The box won't need to be load-bearing, but the hook will.
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2013 00:51 |
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Kaf posted:I bought my first home a few weeks ago, and I'm having trouble with the outside front GFCI outlet. (Trying to get some drat Christmas lights working.) Our inspector initially picked up that the existing outlet didn't work, so we had the vendor fix it before closing, along with a few other minor electrical issues. When we did our closing day walkthrough we saw that it had been replaced with a new GFCI so we assumed it would work. Nope. Start by getting a real volt meter (instead of just a detector), and measure the voltage out of that outlet.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2013 01:04 |
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Is it in close enough proximity that the heater is warming it up, by blowing hot air on it? I can't picture your room layout.
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2013 21:51 |
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I'd suggest using a multimeter to measure the voltage. The best you can hope for with an internet answer is what it is supposed to be, a multimeter will tell you what it actually is.
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2014 19:36 |
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Cyril Sneer posted:Ok. But something funky is happening. Between the ground and either prong I measured 123v, but across the prongs I measure 213v. So something seems wrong here. That's how it should be.
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2014 21:32 |
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What kind of thermostat is there now?
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2014 21:06 |
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That doesn't really narrow it down much. Is there a model number?
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2014 21:18 |
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Crotch Fruit posted:Update on the light-switch/dead bolt of death, the maintenance guy finally came over. "It's normal, all the apartments do that." So I am examining the lease breaking clause in my rental agreement. What sort of provisions exist in your state for you to hire your own electrician and deduct it from your rent? Also, just for laughs, how many volts between the dead bolt and the door frame?
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# ¿ Jan 30, 2014 23:39 |
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thelightguy posted:Maybe give the fire marshall and the electric company a call while you're at it. And your insurance agent.
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2014 23:27 |
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Where is your control voltage going to come from?
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2014 01:43 |
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tater_salad posted:Is there such a thing as a wireless thermostat? Not wifi programable but no wire to run? They exist: http://www.venstar.com/Thermostats/WirelessR/ I can't say I've ever used one.
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# ¿ May 10, 2014 00:56 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 15:28 |
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DraftSight is free: http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight/overview/ It's basically AutoCad c. 2000.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2014 05:22 |