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My toilet has started making a humming sound as the tank refills. It seems to be coming from either the fill valve or the supply line. Should I empty the tank and disconnect the valve, then turn the water on briefly with the supply line pointed at a bowl or bucket to listen for the hum and determine which part it is?
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Feb 15, 2024 05:10
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 20:52 |
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It's the fill valve Or a hose came loose
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Feb 15, 2024 05:44
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Fill valve lustin' to burst out in song. Make sure it's clear of crud/not sticking & probably just replace it.
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Feb 15, 2024 06:09
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DrBouvenstein posted:Yeah, in the Fix it Fast thread I mentioned I did notice the other day the stopper for the rod wasn't screwed in tightly/correct and I fixed that, drain stopper still loose. Try adjusting the linkage so it doesn't go as high. Otherwise tighten up that connection. Maybe a bulge of tape would be enough. Or bend part of it to one side so it is riding along something.
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Feb 15, 2024 06:53
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Sometimes this is simple as a bubble getting in the wrong spot. You can drain the entire thing out and then turn it back on that usually gets the bubble caught by the larger bit of air that's being purged out when you first turn it back on. Just remember to have a way to shut the water off at the main if you do anything with the toilet because cutoff valves like to fail at the worst possible times.
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Feb 15, 2024 11:54
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Did galvanic corrosion kill my water tank? It came with the house, is 5-10 years old at least, and it's leaking from everywhere right now. When it tried to turn out it sounded like it was sucking in water in with the air, throwing errors, etc. It's coming out and getting replaced with a tankless system, and I don't want to kill the new tankless system. Top outlet: What's with the white stuff on it?  Top inlet: Should there have been a union between the brass and what looks like galvanized pipe? Could that being missing have caused all the issues at the other outlets?  Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater, mostly to stop the rotten egg smell, which it did help, REASONABLY sure the rust color is just the very high sediment in my water that my filters still struggle to help with. 
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Feb 18, 2024 17:56
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Top connectors rusted out due to galvanic corrosion. Water has been running down inside the jacket & soaked/rusted everything. Whatever it’s replaced with you need to isolate the copper /brass from the steel to prevent recurrence
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Feb 18, 2024 18:29
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Everything about that install makes me uncomfortable. It's just a series of red flags that need to be looked into more closely. Did you or someone else relocate the T&P valve to the top in order to install that anode? And if so, is it even the right length to be there? Is that unit listed to have it going through a tee (answer: almost definitely no to all of these). You should do the following two things: - Hire an actually good and qualified contractor to install your new system. Make sure they are doing a good job/licensed, permitted and then the inspector will ensure they are following code - Call your local ag extension and ask about water testing. Tell them about this massive amount of corrosion and whatever and they will suggest the appropriate lab tests and tell you where to pick up a sample kit and how to do it. You may or may not need water treatment due to chemistry issues that can be affecting all of the plumbing in your house, not just an improperly installed and maintained water heater.
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Feb 18, 2024 18:33
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Motronic posted:Everything about that install makes me uncomfortable. It's just a series of red flags that need to be looked into more closely. It’s a low-rent expansion tank! Plumbers hate this weird trick!!
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Feb 18, 2024 18:35
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Picture one and picture three are 100% poorly tightened or poorly sealed threads. Whoever installed that heater did not do a good job. The second picture should have been a factory installed nipple, and should not be leaking unless somebody hosed with it for absolutely no reason. Get an actual licensed plumber out for replacement, not a Home Depot/Walmart contractor. It would be a good idea to get your water tested as well, but the plumber will explain things better when he gets there. I want to see the rest of your plumbing set up, I get really suspicious from looking at the braided hose connectors. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 18, 2024 |
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Feb 18, 2024 21:20
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I've been trying to figure out this water hammer issue we've had going on for months that coincided with some work I did in the crawl space. First I thought it was my strapping, or an inefficient amount so I went down there and put up more strapping. Then I thought it must be the old strapping which the plumber did a pretty poor job of in some spaces, so I fixed that stuff up. Today we think we figured it out finally. It was the expansion tank. It had lost a lot of its air charge over the years, and the the inrush of water from the water hammer caused it to knock a little against the wall. Pumping it back up seems to have fixed it, but the real test will be the next time we do another load of laundry. Before it's asked, we do have water hammer arrestors on our washing machine and outdoor sprinkler to help mitigate already.
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Feb 19, 2024 21:01
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Expansion tank should not be moving at all. Please secure it
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Feb 19, 2024 21:30
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Nitrox posted:Expansion tank should not be moving at all. Please secure it It wasn't the expansion tank moving. It's secured to the wall/studs with a special bracket and hose clamps and it's very secure. The bladder inside of it expanding and contracting rapidly was what was causing the noise.
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Feb 19, 2024 21:33
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I would like to move the standpipe for my washing machine drain about 8 feet. Currently the washer is on an exterior wall and this is how it's vented: I'd to move it to the other side of the laundry room on an interior wall about 8' away. Will the current vent be sufficient? I know there are some lateral distance considerations with venting (and maybe drain pipe diameter is part of that? Been a minute since I did any waste plumbing) and just wasn't sure. I may also have to lower the P trap on there to have the correct slope away from the new location-again does that present any problems?
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Mar 1, 2024 18:42
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Can anyone identify this brand of kitchen faucet? The head is falling apart and I want to replace it but there is not a single marking, sticker, engraving etc. anywhere at all on the entire faucet. I have checked top to bottom, front a back, under the sink, on and on, nothing. I'm pretty sure the guy who owned my home before me bought this at Lowe's or Home Depot but I can't find a thing on it, it was replaced around this time last year so I imagine they still make them or have them in stock somewhere.     
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Mar 1, 2024 19:02
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That looks like a big box store glacier bay-level throwaway faucet that will not have any parts available. It's also mounted 90 degrees off (the operating handle is supposed to point to the right, not at the sink). Just find a new single hole faucet you like in your price range and replace the whole thing. If you can spend a few hundred bucks skip the box stores and look at a kitchen and bath place or a plumbing supply that sells retail. You can absolutely walk into places like that and tell them you're looking for quality not high priced art pieces and the should be able to set you up with something from a brand like <City Name> Brass or even some of the names you see at the big box stores likw Kohler, Moen, Pfister but they will be much different models.
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Mar 1, 2024 19:53
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Just don't buy some poo poo "Project Source" product from Lowe's or something. Get a Moen or something similar. Otherwise you'll be spending money on a new faucet twice.
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Mar 1, 2024 19:58
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Seeing the handle in the front like that is wild.
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Mar 1, 2024 20:51
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You can often find Moen faucets at Costco; I have one very similar to that (but with the handle on the side).
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Mar 1, 2024 21:16
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If the handle was in the correct position, they would never be able to open cold water, because it would be hitting the backsplash. Take that into consideration when buying the new faucet. And you are absolutely positively buying a new faucet, this is a disposable brand item
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Mar 1, 2024 23:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I would like to move the standpipe for my washing machine drain about 8 feet. Currently the washer is on an exterior wall and this is how it's vented: If you are within 8 ft of the main stack, you do not need additional vents. If not, you can do your regular drain, trap and an air admittance valve. You can hide it all inside an interior wall.
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Mar 1, 2024 23:41
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Nitrox posted:If you are within 8 ft of the main stack, you do not need additional vents. If not, you can do your regular drain, trap and an air admittance valve. You can hide it all inside an interior wall.
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Mar 1, 2024 23:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I am probably 15-20ft from the main stack thu the roof. If I'm within 8' of that weird stack pictured outside is that okay? Does the AAV need to be above the entrance to the standpipe for the washer drain or does the height of the AAV not really mnatter??
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Mar 1, 2024 23:54
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You could also run it up to the attic and tee it into your main vent stack. That's what I did but an AAV would have been a lot easier. I love abuse though.
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Mar 1, 2024 23:59
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Nitrox posted:If the handle was in the correct position, they would never be able to open cold water, because it would be hitting the backsplash. Take that into consideration when buying the new faucet. And you are absolutely positively buying a new faucet, this is a disposable brand item The one I have and the ones I've seen operate where you push in or pull out to turn on the water. Where it's at now would be full cold, and rotating it forward 90 degrees (so away from the backsplash if it would mounted properly) would be full hot. I don't see any reason why that exact faucet or a similar one would't work when mounted properly there.
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Mar 2, 2024 00:16
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Motronic posted:The one I have and the ones I've seen operate where you push in or pull out to turn on the water. Where it's at now would be full cold, and rotating it forward 90 degrees (so away from the backsplash if it would mounted properly) would be full hot. I don't see any reason why that exact faucet or a similar one would't work when mounted properly there. it's pull away from stem to enable water, then turn 90° in either direction to go from hot to cold or leave in the middle for mix. Maybe OP could orient the faucet correctly and give us a demonstration
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Mar 2, 2024 04:13
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Nitrox posted:it's pull away from stem to enable water, then turn 90° in either direction to go from hot to cold or leave in the middle for mix. That's goofy. Must be a house brand/no name/cheap thing. That's way too much travel to be useful/nice to use and causes the install fitment issues we're discussing. But I bet it means they can get away with using a traditional faucet cartridge or something similar that saves them money. https://i.imgur.com/c3U9NIB.mp4
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Mar 2, 2024 04:26
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Motronic posted:That's goofy. Must be a house brand/no name/cheap thing. That's way too much travel to be useful/nice to use and causes the install fitment issues we're discussing. But I bet it means they can get away with using a traditional faucet cartridge or something similar that saves them money. It's basically a bathroom faucet standing upright, yes. This is why every Ikea faucet has the exact same cartridge inside. I have one in my kitchen, I don't like it either, but it was free so I just live with it.
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Mar 2, 2024 04:29
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My toilet tank fills up with water, water flow stops for 2 seconds, then it starts running at a very slow rate and continues. I found this very helpful video, but I cannot seem to twist anything off on my valve. Is my valve cover not removable?
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Mar 8, 2024 02:57
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Replace the entire fill valve. They're like 10 bucks.
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Mar 8, 2024 03:31
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kid sinister posted:Replace the entire fill valve. They're like 10 bucks. <- This newbie will not get their rear end kicked?
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Mar 8, 2024 03:37
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I don't see why you would. It's a fairly simple job as long as the shut off valve under the tank actually shuts off. Shut the water off and hold down the lever until the tank empties as much as it can. Use a rag to sop up any water left and wring it into the bowl. Of course, this is assuming your valve still works. If it doesn't, we can help fix that too.
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Mar 8, 2024 03:41
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theHUNGERian posted:My toilet tank fills up with water, water flow stops for 2 seconds, then it starts running at a very slow rate and continues. I found this very helpful video, but I cannot seem to twist anything off on my valve. Make certain that it isn't the flapper valve that's leaking. Shut off the supply to the commode and check it over time to see if the water level drops.
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Mar 8, 2024 04:39
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I'm a little annoyed that the side handle faucets don't follow any convention. Mine isn't labeled, and I don't see labels on the supply hoses so hot is back towards the backsplash and cold is toward the user. The one in my office is marked and is the opposite. The one in Virginia Slams house is labeled and follows my convention. Obviously my way is right, I can't imagine why anyone would want the easiest way for little hands to turn it on to be hot. (I figure a child who can barely reach it would have a tendency to pull the handle forward if they wanted a glass of water and that the safest outcome means that should be cold).
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Mar 8, 2024 06:19
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Here the hot is meant to be on the left of the tap as you look at it head on, so they label it H and C on the handle, or with blue and red dots. Whether it's forward or backwards will depend on which side of the basin you mounted the tap. Now, there's no law against putting cold in the H side, but there should be.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:07
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What about hot water toilet hookup?
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Mar 8, 2024 07:13
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The cistern will only be hot after you've flushed it, at which point you're heading out of the room. It's terrible radiator design imo.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:49
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PainterofCrap posted:Make certain that it isn't the flapper valve that's leaking. Shut off the supply to the commode and check it over time to see if the water level drops. I see no drop in water level after an hour, but the tank is empty after ~12 hours. If the leak is so slow, would that explain why the valve does not shut off? I guess it would be easiest to replace everything in one go rather than one piece at a time. Edit: 1. Listened to my butt crack. 2. Replaced flapper. Issue persisted. 3. Replaced valve. Issue resolved. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Mar 9, 2024 |
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Mar 8, 2024 15:30
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Main bathroom shower needs a cartridge replacement, fine. Gotta love the 25+ years of corrosion keeping the handle from coming off even though the set screw is out. Spraying it down with vinegar every 15 min or so but I may need to go to something stronger. At least the rest of it is easy after that, it’s a pretty common Delta cartridge type from what I can tell.
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Mar 9, 2024 20:04
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So my upstairs shower has 3 knobs; hot ,shower, cold. They're Pfister valves I think it's called. A couple years ago, I started getting water leaking from the actual handles themselves. Asked around and concluded it was probably washers worn out in the valve. Decided to just replace all 3 valves+handles cause it was like 50 bucks and would make me not think about it for some more years. Now I am getting a small every 5 second or so drip from the faucet, and it's the cold water. Did I probably install it incorrectly? It wasn't dripping initially and seemed to be all good. Also as a side note, I dunno what the other options are for valves like that, but I didn't enjoy the Pfister removal/replacement. Seemed like a convoluted for no reason kind of system...but what do I know
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Mar 10, 2024 00:29
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