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Calidus posted:I am interested installing a utility sink, I have done some basic pvc plumbing but it’s mostly been repairs. There are existing hook ups copper pipes and a pvc drain but I would like to install the sink about 2ft to right. Can I just add about 2ft of pipe between the p trap and the wall without moving the existing installation? Heck yeah great project. I just did one myself. Probably the main thing that might challenge you is moving the drain that far, since the sinks themselves aren't really that big. You might have exposed pipe to the left of your sink that is suspect for getting hit or being in your way. Take a pic of what you got if you want advice. Edit, since it's so fresh I thought I'd add what I learned. Utility sinks are deep, so the Roughin ends up lower than you'd expect or the tailpipe can be a lot shorter. I bought a cheap plastic one at home depot that came with everything. That is mostly fine except I was rough with it and broke the corner unpacking it. Oh did I mention it is deep? The supply connections are also a lot lower than I expected. I should have bought the sink first and did the plumbing after. What's weird is despite that being an issue they supply lines they shipped with were very short. Like they didn't extend beneath the tub at all, so I had to get longer ones. Behold, my project that could have come out a lot better had I simply bought the sink first. I haven't sheetrocked it yet because transporting the drywall is annoying. So you get an xray view. 
StormDrain fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jan 2, 2023 |
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Jan 2, 2023 03:50
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Lol the unintended consequences! Dryer venting guidelines I used one of these when I moved my dryer and I couldn't be happier, you probably won't have to go to that extent, they have really clear guidelines for venting if you actually have to do anything more than replacing the hose that connects the dryer to the vent piping.
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Jan 2, 2023 05:57
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Calidus posted:That’s not a fire hazard or anything Holy poo poo, so it really was pvc flex all the way out under there? Awful.
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Jan 2, 2023 20:05
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PageMaster posted:I posted a while ago about my irrigation anti siphon valves and after basically being told they were 1) installed incorrectly/too low), 2) also complete garbage, so I've been looking at what to do in the meantime while I try to find a plumber that isn't doing whole house remodels or new construction here. Just trying to logic my way through this, is backflow risk only when the irrigation valve is open? If so, I could just leave them closed/turned off for now? It looks like they close by the inlet water filling a bonnet chamber above a diaphragm which pushes it down and stops water flow through the valve. Turning on the valve drains the chamber and the water pressure can then lift the diaphragm. I'm wondering if in the closed position, where there's basically supply water keeping the bonnet chamber full, and the only water pressure from the outlet side being water left in the irrigation line draining back to the valve). In a backpressure event, wouldn't the diaphragm stay closed since the bonnet chamber is still full? Also, wouldn't the remaining elevated water in the irrigation lines just drain back down and pour out the Atmospheric Vacuum breaker and make a mess, or does it collect in the vacuum breaker and basically hold it open? Understand it all still sucks if a siphon occurs while in operation since the water in the line wouldn't continue draining out and absolutely don't intend to just live with it, but want to make sure were safe until it gets done right. OK I was just researching this as I have one to plumb in after I had to temporarily disconnect it. Backflow risk is when the valve TO the preventor (from the house) is open, there's not much pressure when none of your irrigation valves are open, and low risk. The situation when you get backflow is if the pressure drops in your house and the water from the irrigation feeds back into the house as there has been a vacuum created. If your irrigation is on timers, if you experience no pressure at the house for an extended period you have the risk then. It seems like you're expecting there to be high pressure on the exterior, when the real issue is lack of pressure on the inside, and the head pressure from the irrigation you have that is higher than the anti-siphon valve keeps it open and drains back to the house until it's drained lower than the anti siphon valve. So ultimate solution is to raise the anti siphon valve. Here's what I was reading, I found it well written and easy to follow. https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/home-sprinkler-systems-backflow-prevention-devices-4-714/ For anything hose-bibb I always see Woodford specified on my projects and that's what I installed at my house. That could be partly related from them being based in Colorado and I'm based in Colorado. Something like a model 50 or model 34.
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Jan 5, 2023 17:46
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PitViper posted:I'd prefer that to the way ours are done. All ours come up out of the floor Yep I have this same issue. Two of three of mine stub right thru the floor and the one that comes from the wall is going to be relocated to the floor because I have to move the toilet to an outside wall for clearance issues. It'll be easier on the plumbing side and harder on the tiling and cleaning side. But that beats a frozen pipe when we have another three days at 15 below. My sink line kept icing up on the section on the outside wall and that was even after I Insulated the wall and pipe. It's just so drat ironic to me. The ones that are floor stubs are on interior walls too. I strongly recommend if anyone stubs one on a wall now to make it like 9" above the floor to avoid the base.
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Jan 11, 2023 05:19
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PBCrunch posted:I need to connect the warm water line for our Tushy bidet (the cold line connected to the toilet supply, easy-peasy). My wife wants a new faucet in the bathroom "while I'm in there". The pipes under the sink are all hard copper lines. I don't want to call a plumber and I don't want to learn how to solder copper plumbing. I do want to add quarter-turn ball valves for the cold and hot lines. There are no valves for the bathroom faucet currently. I've done all three, and compression fittings are just fine in my opinion. Solder made me feel the best, sharkbites spin on the fitting and that's annoying to me. Compression does require you to put some beans into it when tightening, and I've never had an issue with it. The worst part of compression is replacing one and getting the old ring off, although someone probably has a good tip for that. I'm impressed there are no valves currently though. Is it just some reducer fitting soldered on?
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Jan 17, 2023 16:54
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Nitrox posted:This is where push connect valves are the most useful, just get the sharkbite or whatever brand is available near you. You'll be done in no time Sort of? That doesn't look stubbed far enough out to put a valve directly onto the pipe, so you're looking at a union, scrap of pipe, then a valve. Provided there's even a big enough hole to get the union through the wall. And. it wasn't until now that I realized that's a photo up at the bottom of the sink and I have no idea what the wall connection looks like, that could just as well be the supply line going through drywall to a mystery connection!
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Jan 20, 2023 16:31
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Motronic posted:Yes, some people repeatedly recommend exactly that fantastically bad idea in this thread and others. Usually with a "but but if the pipe is cut exactly square they're fine." 
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Jan 21, 2023 00:24
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I solder all my buried connections and some of the exposed ones too. My main complaint is how expensive they are. I don't expect them to last forever, I also don't expect them to fail anytime soon. I'll write back when they do, assuming the forums are around in another 20 years. Click here for the scariest product you'll ever see
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Jan 21, 2023 00:57
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One justifiable application I had was a spot I couldn't get flame to safely. It was in the back bottom corner of my kitchen cabinet and I am not ready to move the cabinet, but eventually I will and it'll get replaced. The next was under a bath cabinet that I anticipate replacing in the next year. I wanted to try it versus a compression fitting. I treat all supply valves as disposable anyway, they usually fail open. I used a ball valve in a spot for my irrigation supply from inside the house. It's above an unfinished basement with a drain, glad I did since I ended up having to cut that pipe out and replace it, I was able to pull the valve and set it again. House's aren't permanent. Most of the plumbing homeowners touch can easily be replaced and isn't anticipated to last 60 years. People don't replace seats in faucets anymore, it's just replacing with new fixtures in 20 years or at the changes of ownership. I'd never do a whole house in sharkbites.
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Jan 21, 2023 01:42
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I just finished up soldering new supply for my toilet I had to rotate 90 degrees. I moved the supply for the hall bathroom too since the access was better, it comes through the wall and not the floor now, although I bonered that one a bit and it's crooked. I lost the ambition to fix it. I'll do that tomorrow. I had my wife take turn on the valve while I was upstairs to watch for leaks. Before she could help she had to use the toilet, I told her OK but don't flush please. Over the phone I asked her if it was silent or making noise. She said yeah a little. I started feeling every joint but didn't see any leaks, then I asked her if she flushed. The toilet was filled by then and it went quiet. Success! And I'm minus one sharkbite in the house. Also plus one ugly hole in the floor but that's temporary.
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Jan 29, 2023 00:21
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melon cat posted:Any cool tradesmen tips for applying PVC cement into smaller (0.5” to 1”) pipes without creating a god awful mess of drippy PVC glue? The puffball on a stick applicator that comes with PVC cements is always too big for smaller diameter pipes. And Yeah like, let it drip off the applicator as much as you can. And follow the instructions exactly, wipe the pipe, then the fitting, then the pipe again. If the puffball is dry enough it shouldn't be too much glue. I did like 10-15 fittings in two inch pipe this month and then one three inch fitting and was shocked at how much more surface area there was to cover.
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Feb 3, 2023 18:03
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I just accidentally spilled the trap to my shower when I was removing it. I threw up a little in my mouth from the smell. The upside of the whole thing, it came loose from the fitting so I just had to clean it up to replace the piping. No heat, no saw, no union. Just glue up.
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Feb 5, 2023 00:25
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Chas McGill posted:Not sure if there are any UK based folk here, but I need help identifying a mains shower that was installed back in 2013 and has no identifying features on the outside. The original installer hasn't responded to my queries trying to find out even the manufacturer. I understand I pretty much need to remove the tiles etc to replace the shower if I can't find the model. You never said what your goal was on it, so I don't know what you're trying to do but it sure looks like this one: https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-harrison-square-twin-thermostatic-shower-valve
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Feb 15, 2023 16:37
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Jaded Burnout posted:Quick waste drainage question; when it comes to outdoor soil pipes, is it necessary to always have a vent pipe "upstream" of the traps, or is it adequate to have a single main vent for the system? What the heck is an outdoor soil pipe? There are very clear tables in the IRC that address how many fixtures can be attached to vent stacks. The number that can go on a 3" pipe is A LOT.
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Feb 22, 2023 22:34
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Illuminado posted:This is my idea for the layout. I don't know if I need the arrestors in place with a modern valve. I was planning on using teflon tape on all the threaded fittings. I want to echo the reccomendation above of using a valve body with stops, I just put one in and it's handy to testing etc and barely costs anything more. I'm using Delta brand. I doubt you need hammer arrestors. Those are for electrically operated valves that can shut full off instantly. Refrigerators, coffee machines, ice makers, irrigation, washing machines, dishwashers. Anything you do by hand is closing slow enough that you can't get a hammer. My outside valve doesn't need it until I put a timer on it and it hammers hard when it shuts off. A lot of the appliances listed don't use water fast enough either to get much of a hammer, like dishwashers or fridges. It's about velocity and momentum with a sudden stop.
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Feb 23, 2023 01:12
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No. Cap them with a plastic bag and a rubber band.
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Feb 23, 2023 23:21
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We're on a well in a drought-prone (not after this winter, but we need to stay prepped for the future) area of California. We have a builder's special nozzle on the downstairs shower. It gives forth a single narrow jet of water that isn't great for, say, washing your legs or rinsing your hair. What are the requirements for gpm where you live? Delta advertises a H20Kinetic that uses some tactic to feel like more water use than it uses. I don't have it so I suppose that's not a ton of help but maybe a direction to help you.
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Feb 26, 2023 19:30
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Arsenic Lupin posted:1.8 GPM. The lowest an H20Kinetic will go is 1.85. Why that extra .05? Interesting, I was looking through the Delta catalog and noted most of them are available at 1.75gpm and that must have been to clear under 1.8 minimum. Perhaps look again? Delta Website posted:Most Delta, Brizo and Peerless shower devices that comply with the 2.0 gpm standard have been converted to 1.75 gpm and are in compliance with the 1.8 gpm standard. This is a running change for most models with no change to model numbers. All 1.75 gpm products will be WaterSense® labeled and marked with a green sticker on the individual box and outer carton.
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Feb 26, 2023 22:32
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This isn't even about my ethics; Moen and Delta won't ship to a California address.
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:We're getting our bathroom redone and the contractor wants to replace everything, but we like the old handles and spouts on the sink and tub. Is it unreasonable to try and save these parts for aesthetic reasons? They're possibly like 60-100 years old and go well with the arts and crafts bungalow style, but I guess there's some buildup and/or corrosion in the guts. "I would like you to give me a price to refurbish and reinstall the existing fixtures and an alternate price to replace them with the following make and models, which I can opt for at a later date if the existing fixtures are unable to be reused." If they won't do that, you don't have to use them. If you can't find another contractor who will, you've learned you have an adversarial relationship with this contractor and proceed accordingly as a client. I say that because the request is pretty gentle, and gives them easy outs and a chance to replace it anyway. They can come back and tell you it needs seals at seats that are no longer available or they're too broken or cost more than expected so the old ones are out. Feel free to go research on your own and check before deciding. And it protects you by locking in the prices now. There's a thousand ways to screw you over on this, in the world of negotiation you'll have to decide if the pricing is fair early on. If it's a bad alternate price to begin with then you're in trouble no matter what. Edit: sorry I have a lot of thoughts on contractors in general as I am one... At the end of the day you're making an agreement between two people. You may or may not get everything you want but you should get a quality finished product you're both proud of. If the faucets are in poor shape and detract from the overall look of the room, it might not be worth it. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 3, 2023 |
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Mar 3, 2023 18:23
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Thanks for the tips. I guess I was thinking that older worn parts might have better craftsmanship than most new stuff, or that we can't find similar looking fixtures, but now it seems like neither is necessarily true. You can do some mix and matching then, potentially. The tub spout is an easy thing to keep and reuse, it's a dumb hunk of metal. It doesn't have a diverter so you'll need a diverter plumbed in if this is a shower. Same as what you have now. The sink spout may be more difficult, it may hook up easily to a new set of widespread handles or it may need an adapter or two. Have them removed carefully and you can spend some time polishing them and see what you think. The relationship may be a somewhat tricky thing to manage considering he's a family friend. At the end of the day, it's your house and you're paying for something. "Mike, you're right that there are cheaper and easier ways to do this. I like this house and I like the craftsmanship of wood windows and higher quality finishes. If you're not comfortable installing it I can find someone else, which would be better for both of us." If you all are adults this isn't that harsh. It's a business decision and most folks can separate that. Usually you don't have to say the last part out loud, and it is implied. "Mike, are you able to install wood windows?" All contractors I don't know are named Mike. My apologies if his name is Mike.
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Mar 3, 2023 21:45
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bobua posted:I've managed to snake a camera down the drain, i can see where the water is pooling in the p-trap, so its at least a slow leak if it is leaking. Did you check the vent like Motronic recommended? Get up on the roof and look in it with a flashlight. Chances are if it's clogged it's at the top.
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Mar 6, 2023 17:06
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NotNut posted:How do you get to water supply lines under sinks to unscrew them? The quarters are too tight for me to fit a normal wrench around the basins of either of my sinks. Remove the faucet from the sink and do it loose. And yes, use a basin wrench to get the nut for the faucet off.
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Apr 26, 2023 19:24
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Epitope posted:Does this flange need to be screwed down? Yes.
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May 13, 2023 22:58
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Whatever dumbshit "renovated" my house never secured the toilet flange to the subfloor. Very common for some reason. People think the weight of the toilet is enough I guess?
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Jun 16, 2023 16:51
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I have what I hope is a dumb question. Installing a connection elbow for my shower wand. The requirements are that the nipple is between 1/16 and 3/16 from the face of finished surface. Currently it's at 5/16. If the nipple is MIP threading can I cut this down by a little to make it work? I'm assuming I can because it's straight threaded but I'm just not that confident. It's fully seated in the elbow in the wall which is NPT and I assume this Delta hand wand elbow is also npt but I have no way to measure it. Edit, I checked the specs and yes te Delta elbows are NPT
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Jul 4, 2023 02:04
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StormDrain posted:I have what I hope is a dumb question. Well that was a dumb question. The correct answer to my problem is to get two threaded copper fittings, a scrap of pipe, and sweat my own nipple.
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Jul 4, 2023 16:07
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What's up it's ya boy the clown plumber. Using sweat to npt fittings the shortest nipple I can make is 2-1/4". You'd think I would have checked how long I needed it to be and perhaps checked that out before I left the store I didn't want to go to but alas, I need one about 1-3/4". Back I go to get an inside fitting to match my outside fitting and make the most obnoxious nipple this side of Vegas.
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Jul 4, 2023 22:38
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I AM GRANDO posted:I have an extremely basic question that I can’t google my way to answering: Does yours also have an air admittance valve? I have a feeling it's related. A go ogling here has suggested it may be clogged further down partially and that is causing back pressure and the valve won't open. My rudimentary application of fluid dynamics with your story is saying perhaps enough pressure of a full sink is able to do something and force it by, then low pressure when it's empty and it fails again. So in summary, what the other poster said. Has this always been like this or new? Do any other fixtures have trouble draining? Can you test and see? Sometimes we get clogged pipes on sinks that don't get used much so we don't experience the symptoms. It's not often I drain a full sinks worth in my half bath for instance. Apply the scientific method to all of your fixtures and see what develops. Flush the toilet twice back to back. Pour a give gallon bucket down each sink. Get this sink draining and when it goes faster pour a bucket in and see if it maintains. The solution to most draining issues is to hit it with a snake.
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Aug 14, 2023 05:30
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PainterofCrap posted:Yeah. This is the way. I'm assuming from the galling on the shower head that you've either already tried using the nearly correct tool, a pair of channel locks. Or, alternately, Gary did with the force of a chimp, and it's there for good. And use a rag in the Jaws of your pliers next time.
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Aug 18, 2023 06:25
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tangy yet delightful posted:If I use this wye/bend piece to create a connection point for the french drain, is that the best way to go about it or should I use some different combination of pipe pieces? Something that is kind of annoying is that you won't have enough pipe to set into the fitting, unless you are able to lift the pipe up and slide it down into the flange. So keep that in mind. You may end up using a fernco rubber fitting or a slip joint to splice some pipe together, so also put a chunk of 3" pipe on your list. In longer words just in case that was lost: cut out the pipe, glue the wye on a stub you left on the bottom PVC, and slide the top pipe back into it IF it is able to be lifted and dropped. Plan your cut accordingly. If you can't drop it, cut a longer section out, and glue in a stub to the top of the wye that matches the pipe above and put the slip/repair fitting on, then put it in place and glue together. IMO don't buy that socket drilling until you absolutely need it. Plumbers typically melt the fittings out, and there's also a chance you can just pull it out because it's not glued (never was or glue failed) on any job you do. It just seems like something you'd buy and spend $20 and have it around forever and never use or use once and take up space the rest of the time.
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Sep 15, 2023 17:52
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Nitrox posted:Most likely trying to unspin the garage disposal ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Beat me to it. Those clamp tools are far easier to use than the little ring they claim will loosen it.
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Sep 24, 2023 20:47
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Leperflesh posted:there I fixed it I know you're done so I can't help you but in general, I think it's very interesting that you cut the back of the spout off. It's been a few years but as I recall most of these just grip onto a pipe using a set screw. I would probably have gotten a threaded male and soldered that onto a copper pipe and cut that to length. Or if you wanted to stick with that one that was threaded... two male fittings and a section of copper pipe.
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Dec 11, 2023 21:58
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:
It's just the geometry of the wall hydrant. The seat has to be inside the wall and a 2x4 wall isn't deep enough to accommodate everything. At best you'll be tight up inside the drywall but I doubt you'll get it all to fit the way you are thinking. There's also a benefit of having the additional distance and mass inside the insulation. If it's halfway in the wall it's half as much insulation. Copper is going to conduct heat and cool off as well, so the added depth and insulation helps. Rig up whatever you want, just be sure to put you valve higher than the outlet so it'll drain. It's not necessary but doesn't hurt. No different than before don't forget to unhook your hose and drain it.
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Jan 1, 2024 04:41
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Hungry Squirrel posted:Every ten minutes, precisely, there is a sound from my walls that sounds a little like the scraping of someone dragging a trash bin down a driveway. This is often accompanied by a water-ish sound, like the gurgle-thump of when you turn off the shower or flush the toilet. Do you have a sump pump? The description of the pipe sounds like you do. Could be back feeding through a failed check valve? The precisely 10 minutes thing is throwing me a bit.
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Jan 26, 2024 20:05
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Hungry Squirrel posted:I do have a humidifier, and it took a while to get used to the various sounds! Good! The fact that the interval is slowing also helps eliminate a short circuit of water where it gets dumped next to the house and leeches right back into the same sump pit to get pumped again. Younger me cut the outlet short because it was interfering with my lawn mowing and I had this problem. I solved it by adding a removable extension to it. It was ugly but functional.
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Jan 28, 2024 18:04
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Toilet Chat: I have this exact toilet: https://www.costco.com/ove-decors-irenne-elongated-smart-bidet-toilet-with-remote-control.product.100491730.html And it's good! I got it on sale for $800 but no telling if that price is ever attainable again, I ordered it two years ago. It's been installed now for about 8 months. The pros: The lid lifts automatically. The spray settings are good, effective. Warm fan can be hot enough that it's uncomfortable. Cons: There's not an auto setting for the night lights so it doesn't get used often. The tank is entirely cosmetic. it operates on a flush valve. Not really an issue by any means but if I knew that I would have opted for one without a fake tank and just had one of the egg shapes. It also came with it's own valve to install which is a good thing since that helps it operate (higher flow) but you should know that's part of the install. For my next bathroom I think I'll opt for a Toto Drake II with a Washlet on it despite enjoying this one. I tried one out at a friends house and I particularly like having saved settings.
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Feb 5, 2024 23:53
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Mine came with a 9v battery backup, so I guess I could just take the ones out of the smoke detectors if that died.
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Feb 8, 2024 23:18
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I'm a little annoyed that the side handle faucets don't follow any convention. Mine isn't labeled, and I don't see labels on the supply hoses so hot is back towards the backsplash and cold is toward the user. The one in my office is marked and is the opposite. The one in Virginia Slams house is labeled and follows my convention. Obviously my way is right, I can't imagine why anyone would want the easiest way for little hands to turn it on to be hot. (I figure a child who can barely reach it would have a tendency to pull the handle forward if they wanted a glass of water and that the safest outcome means that should be cold).
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Mar 8, 2024 06:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Related question: what is it that determines the need for an expansion tank on a hot water system? I've literally never seen one on any residential installation. It's a local city requirement where I live near Denver. My house didn't have one and I didn't have one in my last house either. I knew I needed one here though since every time I turned the water on it surged and then calmed down. Anything that could expand and hold a higher pressure was, such as washing machine hoses, supply hoses to sinks and toilets.
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Mar 18, 2024 14:37
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