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I've known about a leak for a little too long. At first I thought it was the roof, but realized it was the drain for my kitchen sink. Tore open the wall behind the cabinet and, well, this was the result. I think I found the leak. (The back wall behind the kitchen sink is easily accessible.) So that lower section of pipe needs to be cut from what I understand. Do I have to thread it or is there a reliable compression-type fitting that I can use instead? And while I am at it, it's a mess under the sink. Can I combine the 2 drain lines into one so that there is only one connection at the stack? Speaking of the stack, I take it I have to support it while I remove and cut/re-thread? Can plastic fittings support the 10-12' of iron pipe stack?   Oh, and that silver pipe going from the garbage disposal? YEAH, that sprung a leak too. Trying to justify replacing the double-bin sink with a single while I am at it.
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Jan 29, 2017 06:04
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kid sinister posted:...You were able to stick a reciprocating saw blade through your pipe by hand???  In fact, the whole pipe appears to be thinning due to corrosion. Assuming because galvanized pipe into cast or black pipe? I can't get a pic of it due to angle, but the black pipe? Where the threads were is just a mess of rust. SO I guess I need to re-tap/chase the threads OR just use a flexible adapter? kid sinister posted:Yep, that is definitely a mess under the sink. Why is there an outlet in there if there's romex going into the disposal?
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Jan 30, 2017 03:02
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A few months ago I discovered one of my shower valves was leaking. I tried to re-solder the connection but I was afraid that adding too much heat would melt the rubber in the seals, so I thought I'd take out the valve and seals but yeah, that caused more problems. I'm not even going to attempt to repair that. I also discovered that there are no shutoff valves for this shower until I go back to the pump, so I added a shark-bite ball valve and left it for a few months (multiple showers in the house). What's the best valve body to get? I've been told "No Delta" but no brand TO get. Shower with tub, so I need a tub faucet and I want to stick to a single handle design. Other than that, I have absolutely no idea. Temperature control? is it worth it? Well water system if that makes a difference at all. I'd rather spend a few bucks more for quality, and precision fitting the existing holes is not a concern. If someone else has written up a post here about different brands of faucets, I would appreciate a link.
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Mar 18, 2020 23:30
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I have a slight sediment problem. The white filter is new, the orange/dirty one is less than 3 months old. Basic 20” x 2.5” pre-filter, well water, high iron, fair bit of sulfur, mid-Michigan (on a hill a quarter mile from a lake, like that matters) Other than replacing this first stage filter monthly, what other options actually work? Spin down filter with a manual drain? A fancy sediment backwash filter? As for my bacteria problem, are in-line/whole home LED UV sterilizers a thing yet or is the only option at the moment still the bulb lamp type ones? I see lots of talk about LED ones and one site the supposedly has them but they are apparently only pre-order.
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Jun 24, 2020 04:13
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Did galvanic corrosion kill my water tank? It came with the house, is 5-10 years old at least, and it's leaking from everywhere right now. When it tried to turn out it sounded like it was sucking in water in with the air, throwing errors, etc. It's coming out and getting replaced with a tankless system, and I don't want to kill the new tankless system. Top outlet: What's with the white stuff on it?  Top inlet: Should there have been a union between the brass and what looks like galvanized pipe? Could that being missing have caused all the issues at the other outlets?  Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater, mostly to stop the rotten egg smell, which it did help, REASONABLY sure the rust color is just the very high sediment in my water that my filters still struggle to help with. 
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Feb 18, 2024 17:56
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