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So how many of you tend to use all the paints listed in colour list of a kit? As I've got an AFV Club MGS Stryker kit I've been dying to build for a while now and finally gotten around to looking up what colours I need for it now that I get some cash to spend. But the thing is that the list is driving me kinda nuts as it lists 20 different colours but barely half of them ever seem mentioned in the blueprint itself so I'm kinda uncertain what to really do and if I should just ignore the list itself and go for the ones mentioned.
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Sep 8, 2013 18:22
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Midjack posted:I have a tough time caring about the difference between 80% blue/10% black and 80% blue/9% black/1% grey. If the difference seems minute to you, ignore it; I use about half to 2/3 the colors and even then I usually use the closest color I already have on hand. Yeah I tend to avoid the things that need to be mixed together because I'm really bad at that but the thing is there it lists a whole bunch of basic colours like white and blue and such but they never ever get mentioned in the instructions which is bugging me to hell and back. And the only colour mention at the end is simply the one for the body colour.
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Sep 8, 2013 18:55
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Midjack posted:Double check the outside of the box or any loose sheets of paper in the box, I've had a few kits include paint scheme details in those places. Yeah that's probably it in this case thinking about it as there wasn't anything but advertising on the inside of the box. Midjack posted:Up to you what you want to do; paint it whatever color you want. I might just as well go with the main body colour and pick the stuff specifically mentioned. I'm generally bad at coming my own colour schemes anyway. Thanks anyway.  Midjack posted:When you said MGS this is what I pictured instead of "Mobile Gun System": Haha. 
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Sep 8, 2013 19:53
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Question, what's the most recommended 1/72 or 1/48 A-10 Thunderbolt II kit to get? Been thinking of getting it after I get the Hasegawa MV-22b Osprey so I was wondering which kit is the go to one.
Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 14:16
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compressioncut posted:Hobby Boss if you want something to go together fairly well, but it is very, very expensive. The Monogram (boxed now as Revell I think) A-10 has the best shape but represents a 1980s bird and the fit is terrible in some areas, but should be sub-$20 anywhere. And it has (gasp) raised panel lines. There's also Italeri but it's priced pretty close to the HB kit and isn't as good for detail. What limited info I could find from googling pointed me pretty much in the same direction. Any idea of 1/72 scale kits? What about the Tamiya 1/48 A-10 by the way? Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 20:11
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What about the 1/72 Hasegawa A-10? (And which one for that part since it seems to be two or three different kits available.) Otherwise I might just go for either the 1/48 Hobby boss or the 1/72 Academy one since I do kinda want it to be the more modern version. Now I just need to figure out how to wire something up so I can make it play the cannon noise whenever I want to. Or I just have to satisfy myself with having that noise on my cellphone and play it from there. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 17:36
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 Picked kit up from the post office today after having ordered it a couple of weeks ago. Can't wait to build it once I've figured out what Vallejo colours I need to buy for it. Should I prime it in black or white if I'm doing it in grey by the way?
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Nov 5, 2013 21:44
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George Zimmer posted:You could actually prime it in grey if you wanted to, Tamiya makes a great grey primer. If that's not an option though, I'd go with white. Hm, noted. No idea if I can get a can of that primer at a decent price though in Sweden but I might look around and see what I can find otherwise I've got a can of white primer that I'll use instead.
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Nov 6, 2013 00:15
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Arquinsiel posted:Hooo.... I'd like one of those, but possibly a bit sturdier for the wargame table. Yeah I don't think the stand is that much of a "Hey let's move this around" kind of thing. Haven't actually given thought of blacklining it actually. Just go over it with a fine tipped pen after painting it or?
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Nov 6, 2013 01:27
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Yeah I think I can forget doing that since I don't own an airbrush.  Also the lack of standardized colour charts are occasionally really annoying. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Nov 6, 2013 |
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Nov 6, 2013 12:06
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krushgroove posted:The first one I'm working on is a 1/48 A-10 Warthog, I also have a 1/35 Leopard tank and a 1/16 1951/52 VW Beetle that I haven't started on yet. The A-10 started off fine on the sprue but putting it together there's several gaps, like where the main wings meet the fuselage (the most annoying bit), the nose and gun area, where the cockpit meets the fuselage, etc. It's going to look good on a shelf but disappointing up close. From what I read when I did some research on A-10 kits the Revell 1/48 is a really old kit from Monogram that's kinda lacking in the building department. But yeah, things like that sucks and I'm glad I've been able to avoid it more or less so far or just try to paint over the gaps as good as possible.
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Nov 14, 2013 12:00
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krushgroove posted:So...if you wanted to build up a kit to a reasonable (not necessarily award-winning) level of realism, would you just ask on forums to see which one has the best level of detail, get whatever brass-etch bits you want to add, a turned metal barrel if it's a tank, find a book or website with walkaround photos, get color-matched paint and away you go? At the high end, are we talking about Dragon, Hasegawa and maybe newer Tamiya kits? Well brass-etch bits and any possible expansion kits available for that model. Don't know how true this is but a friend mentioned to me a while ago that the newer Airfix kits have gotten a lot better so you could probably use those as an alternative in some cases. I don't find much issue with Revell either, although so far I've only built their 1/72 F-14D and their Commanche but had no real problem with either of them when building.
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Nov 15, 2013 11:53
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Question, I should try to wash the sprues before base coating them right? I recall reading something about doing that before really starting to work on the model.
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Dec 5, 2013 23:46
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Ensign Expendable posted:Probably, it really depends on how they were produced. Most kits don't have any noticeable residue, but I had one ICM kit that was nearly dripping with some kind of lubricant. Ah ok, I don't think it will be that much of an issue with the Hobby Boss A-10 that I wanna start working on but I wanted to be on the safe side and check.
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Dec 6, 2013 01:39
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Morgenthau posted:Yes you should, as Ensign pointed out some of them may have leftover mold release lubricant on them but also to get rid of any dust, dirt or grime that will interfere with your base coat. Although in this case all sprues are still packed in plastic bags but I'm just gonna do it way mentioned by Bloody Hedgehog to be safe.
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Dec 6, 2013 11:00
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Remember reading about someone wanting to make a World in Conflict diorama involving an Abrams, a Sheridan and a Bradley. Now that would've been kinda sweet since that's one of my favourite RTS games.
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Apr 4, 2014 11:16
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Well that certainly beats my workspace by a mile. At least I get plenty of sunlight while painting. Which is also why there is a block of foam behind the paint rack. Also began on the Hasegawa Osprey in earnest with washing the sprues and base coating them. Wherein I learned two lessons in that I should've let them dry for a bit longer to really get rid of any water or soap residue (or possibly rinsed them off) and that base coating is a rather paint intensive affair when it doesn't want to cover really properly due to various reasons. Gonna have to buy another can of paint at some point as mine is down to its last quarter or so.
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Apr 19, 2014 14:46
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big_g posted:Only kidding...that's the way of the past and leads to madness! Instead just coat the Mother Fucker in a Flory wash, leave to dry and then wipe off with a moist tissue. Jobs done. drat, I'd love doing that on the Osprey I've got unfinished for the extra detailing but then I feel like I screwed up the painting by having the paint accidentally being a bit too thick and wish I could just strip the paint of it but being a 1:72 model it's a bit too big to dig in a bath or anything. But drat, that final result. 
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Mar 31, 2015 01:49
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Luminaflare posted:Whoops. Put the elevator on upside down. Yeah that's how most of the small side windows on my still WIP Osprey ended up looking despite my best attempts to avoid it.
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Jan 13, 2016 19:48
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Frenz posted:Dragon kit quality is all over the place but a general rule I’ve found is that the initial release of a particular subject is usually good but then they release several half-assed variations with insane steps like: cut off a return roller, reattach it 15mm away, and then fill the giant hole. Somewhat reminded of the AFV Club instructions for my Stryker MGS I bought a few years back at how utterly confusing its layout was. The fact that then it then also referenced paints that didn't seemingly exist either wasn't that much of a help either.
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Dec 19, 2017 15:04
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So a bit of an oddball question. I've been commissioned to paint one of the Tiger Tanks featuring in Kelly's Heroes for future gaming event but I'm not sure what the correct colours are for it. I know it's a blackish grey with a green camo pattern but that's about it really. Not sure which specific VMC tone is good for either of them and I haven't actually been able to find some decent guides on how to model one of them either.
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Jun 12, 2018 15:27
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Yeah I couldn't resist. Nebakenezzer posted:Important question: do they want an actual Tiger, or the modified T-34 used in Kelly's Heroes? Don't know just yet, get the model later this week but I'm getting the feeling it'll just be your average Tiger tank. I'll have to get some putty for to do the zimmerite. Nebakenezzer posted:e: quick googling shows a black-green over lighter green stripes, maybe an olive drab Any suggestions for those? Only OD one I can find with VMC is 889.
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Jun 12, 2018 22:48
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So update on that Kelly's Heroes tank project I mentioned before. Turns out that Warlord Games apparently has a "Hollywood Tiger" kit available which is about an accurate rendition by looks of it.  Keen eyed people might also notice that for some reason the decal sheet don't actually let you do the number 115. Despite this being shown on the box art and on the product page. (The number obfuscated by the hull is 3 in this case.)May need to find some way to fix that. And now to ruin my search history by looking up painting guides for SS Tank officers. Edit: Not too sure about the lighter green. Leaning towards 857 Golden Olive or 967 Olive Green. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jun 17, 2018 |
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Jun 17, 2018 13:27
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Nebakenezzer posted:I think in the movie they had the SS tank dudes just dressed as SS. No idea if SS tankers in real life had different uniforms. Yeah I checked the movie after I posted that and its pretty much just all black uniforms with white borders on the collars. So that won't really be all that hard to do.
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Jun 18, 2018 09:47
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SocketWrench posted:Don't do 131, you'll get a lot of hate from Tiger buffs Considering it's going to be display at a convention in relation to Kelly's Heroes and used in a Kelly's Heroes convention game as well it's either going to be 115 or 113. So no worries about that.
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Jun 23, 2018 14:38
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 It's a wasted trip baby. Nobody said nothing about locking horns with no Tigers. Been working on a Hollywood Tiger for an upcoming Kelly's Heroes anniversary event and I think I'm more or less finished with it outside some basic decals. Oh and the four rings around the barrel I realize now. Granted I am missing some foliage on the sides but no idea how to pull that off well. This was honestly one of the projects I wished I had an airbrush for to do the camouflage a bit better and the weathering on top.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:44
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EdsTeioh posted:You gonna do the Oddball Sherman with that? No someone else is doing the Sherman in this case as I'm doing the Tiger as a favour/commission for someone else.
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Jul 6, 2018 18:18
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Phi230 posted:So on another note I keep seeing references to people melting their plastic aircraft tires to appear as if they're, you know, tires with weight on them (and b/c nobody actually fills up aircraft tires all the way) I remember seeing an assembly and painting guide for an LAV-25 that suggested putting the model on a pan at low heat to make the weight look somewhat realistic. Never tried it myself though and it's been years since I saw it.
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Sep 4, 2020 14:43
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SoylentCola posted:Does anyone have a kit that has just defeated you? An MV-22 I worked on years back, at some point I realised I was painting it really badly, covering up details and so on, tried to remove some of it by sandpapering it with fine grit paper before I gave up. Now it's in a box in the wardrobe taunting me whenever I see it, alongside the other kits I bought during my model kit phase. Maybe one day I'll strip it in some giant bath of simple green to restart. but nowadays I just don't have room to display them anyway.
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Oct 31, 2022 15:46
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I managed to get an Epic Scale WH40k Baneblade a while back and been wanting to do a diorama with it. Even made a rough "sketch".  At some point I need to order some vallejo texture paints and figure out how to do a small scale tank muzzle flash. Sadly that's the only one I managed to get but I'd still love to do more small scale stuff like that at some point.
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Feb 3, 2023 16:14
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Arquinsiel posted:Anvil Industries do resin 28mm muzzle flashes that work well on BattleTech stuff, so they'll likely have one that'll fit nicely there. Just drill a thin hole right through the middle to pin it into the barrel and stick a bit of flower arranging wire in to hold the round at the end. I think I've seen them before, but I thought they worked better for automatic weapons and not tank guns. But I'll have to check again. But so far I've drilled a hole into the barrel for some wire, just need to find a good way to do the 'disc' so to speak, the guides I have been able to find haven't been exactly the most helpful.
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Feb 3, 2023 18:26
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Arquinsiel posted:IIRC somewhere deep in the line they had a Gauss Rifle round at one point, which is pretty much exactly what you're looking for. The "disk" is probably formed only after the round is well out of scope of the diorama in reality, but 40k runs on Rule of Cool so go hog wild. Perhaps, even then I was mostly looking at real life tanks firing. Although I suppose muzzle flash is the wrong way to describe that effect but it's what got at least some hits for tutorial on youtube.
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Feb 3, 2023 22:26
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Arquinsiel posted:No, it's definitely a muzzle flash, it's just that it's doing weird stuff with the burning gas as a result of the round having gone downrange at a significant Mach number. I would guess that the type of muzzle brake on the gun would make a significant difference to the shape of it too. Oh gods, I haven't even considered the muzzle brake in that case. Would definitely have to look up some good reference images for that to model it at least semi-accurately.
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Feb 4, 2023 04:02
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Which I doubt anyone will, but a fair point nonetheless. Edit: Still need to find good, non-video preferably, tutorials on how to make something like that. Anyone have any good ones available? Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 15:15
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That was one of the first ones I found, sadly I don't really have access to solder and such.
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Feb 4, 2023 17:49
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Charliegrs posted:But can you get GUNMETAL watercolor pencils? Just use a regular pencil. Sonic Sledgehammer has done a couple of times in some of his videos for weathering for metal and vehicles.
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Jan 20, 2024 15:11
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Fearless posted:I would never rule out "the lowest bidder" being the reason, personally. I've seen similar shades of green in use in a variety of older Canadian Forces institutions-- that pale pastel green or blue seems to be very common. Might be for the same reasons why Russian fighter cockpits are a particular shade of blue, it's a very low stress color. A notion supported by some brief googling, alongside a couple of other reasons as to why.
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Feb 27, 2024 15:12
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I've have spent the past couple of days trawling through google search results for stowage or accessory kits in either 1/72 or 1/48 scale to dolly up some 1/100 scale Abrams tanks. So far I've only found stuff that, while cool, usually ends up feeling way too expensive thanks to shipping, even within the EU. Even looked into various STLs without finding much that isn't WW2 or Warhammer related. Before I give up on the idea I figured I might as well ask here for any suggestions if anyone has any. All I'm really looking for is a bunch of modern military backpacks and maybe some boxes for the cargo racks.
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Mar 14, 2024 17:00
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Bucnasti posted:Tamiya makes some really good stowage sets but they're all 1/35 scale. Yeah I came across the Tamiya one multiple times. If it wasn't for the fact that 1/35 won't really fit I'd be all for that one. I think the one I wanted the most was one of the Black Dog sets, but that usually ended up costing me as much as the tanks themselves due to shipping.
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Mar 14, 2024 21:36
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