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Hello! I recently watched Master and Commander again, and then listened to the unabridged audiobook (which is cool but different), and concluded that my childhood obsession with sailing ships appears to have returned. I was going to spend $200+ to get a vintage LEGO pirate ship on eBay, but then realized that maybe I should actually build a more accurate scale model that I can paint myself. Having So, assuming that I do want to keep using acrylic paints, what can you recommend for primers that don't risk destroying details, and what paint would you recommend I use on something like this: https://www.hobbylinc.com/revell-germany-uss-constitution-plastic-model-sailing-ship-kit-1:146-scale-05472 Or should I just suck it up (blow it out) and finally get an airbrush? There's so much fine detail on sailing ships I can't imagine I'd get TOO much use out of it, but...eh. Maybe it's worth it if I want to do more than one of these.
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Mar 28, 2018 18:09
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 14:39 |
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The Locator posted:If you are going to do this, man up and go all in, make this one - http://www.amazon.com/Model-Shipways-Constitution-Long-MS2040/dp/B01GIFZQ1I or this one http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/ussconstitution.htm or even this one! https://www.model-space.com/us/build-uss-constitution-us.html I already have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Lindberg-130-scale-Jolly-Roger/dp/B000N3NT5C that my grandfather (RIP) got me when I was like 8 that I partly assembled but never finished. I kind of want to finish it, except the parts of it that are painted are done in gross Testor's enamels that I never want to use again if I can help it, and also I am a WAY better painter now 20+ years and 1000+ miniatures later. But seriously a wooden model would be cool, however, I would rather do something smaller and cheaper now while I am still a grad student and then save the 3' long wooden model for, I dunno, retirement?
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Mar 28, 2018 20:00
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You're current acrylics would be just fine to paint the parts of a sailing ship. You'd be painting wood, and wood is probably the most forgiving surface to put paint on. Primer isn't really required either. It won't hurt to use it, but it's not really needed like it is for plastics and resins. Well I would rather go with a plastic model at present, for cost reasons if nothing else. EDIT: okay I will look at Tamiya--I know their paints are much better than the overpriced GW crap, for sure. Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 20:01
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Yeah that looks really cool but I think the idea of starting with a smaller project is a good one. Little boats look cool too!
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Mar 29, 2018 18:26
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Fearless posted:I love how this thing looks fast just sitting there. Wow, no kidding. That looks like a great project! Remind me, have you seen/been on the Bluenose II ever? And to what extent are you using reference photos vs plans vs kit direction?
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Aug 1, 2018 15:38
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Can you do very light grey? I think realistically you will have to do some cutting, regardless.
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Sep 10, 2018 19:00
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Also, is he making the "OK" sign with his (unrealistically large) right hand?
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Sep 20, 2018 19:20
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Hey I want to build a model ship. I know I posted to that effect a few years ago, but I think I’m specifically interested in 1:700 warships from like 1906-1936 and I want to start with the HMS Hood. I’ve done a bunch of Warhams so I’m reasonably comfortable with putting together and painting small things, but I don’t have any airbrush or photo etch experience—is there a good starter guide for that stuff?
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Mar 10, 2024 14:51
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IncredibleIgloo posted:If you don't want to do photo etch, this is a pretty good Hood model, according to Fine Scale Modeler. The way some build threads I’ve seen tell it, photo etch is mandatory but I wouldn’t mind being spared the trouble on my first miniature build in a while. The last Warhams I did (both fantasy and 40,000) were like 2015, and I stopped because I just had no time to play, didnt really like the game itself, and didn’t want to start a new minis game. 1/700 is very small I grant but it also means less storage space required, right?
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Mar 12, 2024 13:00
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I mean if I can't fit the entire British line from the Battle of Jutland into a single bookshelf then what's even the point???
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Mar 12, 2024 16:42
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Yeah I realize it’s not as easy as Ultimate Admiral makes it, but it’ll be nice to have something to keep me busy in the winter when it’s too cold for carpentry and woodworking outdoors in the evening. I suppose I could always do PE for stuff like railings but go with resin or 3D print for others. Oh, and also wooden decking—anyone have experience with that?
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Mar 14, 2024 11:17
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Right, yeah...this HMS Hood 1/700 package looks pretty good, though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203563954447 It's got PE and wooden decking, plus the model itself, for under $100.
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Mar 14, 2024 15:14
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tidal wave emulator posted:Yeah absolutely, anything that involves cages, cranes etc or is essentially a series of folded planes really pops as PE as it gives you a combination of intricate detail and very sharp edges that aren't close to possible to 3D printing nevermind injection moulding. See, that actually looks like a lot of fun to me, so I’m encouraged by what everyone’s saying about photo etch. What tools do I need to work with it effectively? Should I maybe practice with a Metal Earth model to get a feel for bending metal? I did go ahead and buy the Flyhawk kit, though my main build for the next few months is going to be a 1:1 scale sailboat for me to take my family out in. Not a model, so not suitable for this thread alas.
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Mar 14, 2024 21:42
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My Flyhawk 1/700 Hood arrived today and it looks amazing. Soooo many tiny bits. The wood decking is sweet. I need to work out what gets assembled before painting, and what needs painted before assembly. Oh also…any good primer and airbrush recommendations? I’m planning to go with Tamiya paints.
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Mar 18, 2024 22:27
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Hey, I need a little help with cleaning -- I have this plastic cement: There's plenty of it left, but it won't come out the metal tip. I imagine a little bit of it has hardened or crystallized inside the thin tip and is blocking it. What solvent(s) could I use to flush it out? It seems too narrow to use a pin or a needle.
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Apr 4, 2024 14:25
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 14:39 |
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Lizard Combatant posted:I just pass a lighter up and down the needle for a few seconds, that clears it out. Smoke posted:The lighter method is commonly used and works well, I would suggest ventilation though. Personally I've got a piece of thin copper wire that just happens to fit perfectly in there to unclog it. Ah, okay, I'll try one and then the other -- I might be able to scrounge up a small enough pin somewhere in the sewing cabinet. e: lighter seems to work, thanks y'all! Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 18:11
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