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TheFuglyStik posted:The results are never as good as you expect once you get the decal on the model. That inkjet film is extremely fragile and very hard to keep from loving up. I say save the money and have custom waterslides made somewhere for roughly the same price. I know this is a bit old, but somebody tell me more about this. I'm halfway through my first kit for about 30 years and I need custom decals to finish it, and I was kind of counting on the print-your-own ones. Is there a way you can get good results? Or what alternatives are there? I'm trying to turn this:  - into this: 
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Feb 28, 2010 14:20
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Print-your-own-decals trip report: Jesus Christ, that's terrible. I had to use about 5 coats of varnish, which made them a lot thicker than I'd like. They're peeling up at the edge, which I might be able to fix when dry or might not. The long stripes go all over the place; I think it might work better if I cut them up into smaller pieces before putting them on? Or maybe I'll just have to mask and paint them instead. Plus it looks like my printer needs cleaning. And the colour's off. Time to strip off and start again.
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Mar 22, 2010 16:32
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Bobx66 posted:Did you use micro sol and micro set? Yes, but it's the first time I'd used those, too. I think the varnish I had to put on was preventing them working like they should. Nebakenezzer posted:That's too bad. Outa curiosity, did you use the special decal printing paper you can get? Yep, that's the stuff. I think I'm going to mask + paint the stripes, then just use it for the logos, which will be a lot easier to fit properly. Not today though, more paint to buy...
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Mar 22, 2010 19:09
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Print-your-own-decals trip report part 2: It might not look it, but that's actually a lot better. The stripes are painted and I don't have an airbrush which explains the uneven stuff, but they look much better in natural light (that's a close up with flash). I printed the decals at work on a laser printer and just gave them one thin coat of varnish; they're fitting a lot better than they were. There are a couple of small wrinkles, luckily on a transparent bit, which I'm going to have a very gentle rub at with very fine sandpaper; I think I'm going to touch up the stripes a little more, and then stick on a few coats of varnish over the whole lot, and then it'll be done for now. Not perfect, but not too bad for a first attempt.
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Mar 31, 2010 09:33
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Otterspace posted:Why bother with all that work, aren't you just going to crack it in half anyway and throw it into a miniature jungle??? I'm intending to carefully separate it into at least four pieces and display it in mid-explosion, but frankly I'm not sure if I'll have the heart to take the saw to it when I get to that point.
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Apr 1, 2010 09:32
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alcyon posted:Its a definate improvement over your last try, much cleaner. Should really add another coat of paint over the stripes though. I might have to. Haven't had time to do much with it yet, but long weekend coming up. alcyon posted:Are you going to recreate a real crash or something? Not a real one: http://lostpedia.wikia.com/wiki/Oceanic_Flight_815
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Apr 1, 2010 13:13
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laratron posted:Does anyone have any good sources for some space-related model kits? I've been through the local hobby shop a few times looking for anything spacey, but all I found was a pile of sad-looking dusty lunar modules and a Delta II that was a) bigger than I am, and b) a hair under $250. This tells me that Airfix (hmm...) are re-releasing a few of their old rocket kits. There's also these guys who seem to do a lot of resin kits; I've never built a resin kit, but I'm sure you can get some tips around here. You could also try http://www.oldmodelkits.com but some of their stuff is ludicrously expensive. A question: I saw a really good article somewhere about painting rusty metal textures, but I can't find it now. Anyone know of something like that?
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Apr 28, 2010 15:35
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Try this I think that's the one I was looking for, thanks. laratron posted:Excellent, thanks for the leads. I'm hoping to score an ultimate find and get a Sputnik I or Sputnik II kit, or I'll take a crack at making them from scratch. Sputnik 1 should be fairly straightforward. As for the rust, I was already thinking of some sort of rust coloured paint, then patches of masking, then top coat, then taking off the masking leaving patches of rust, which is pretty much what's going on in that article. Think I'll try it on some plastic card first.
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Apr 29, 2010 14:23
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Ha! What an awesome thread. To the dude building the Oceanic 815, godspeed. That is freaking sweet! 815's sort of on hold at the moment. I think that was a bit ambitious for a first try (I completely hosed up the paint job). I did make this, though:  - and I'm currently trying to make a Revell VW type 1 minibus into a type 2 minibus, for obvious  reasons.
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May 4, 2010 09:51
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I've been doing a bit of weathering.   It might not be entirely realistic. I like to think of it as 'impressionist'. edit: 
Unkempt fucked around with this message at 15:57 on May 31, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 11:31
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Xenomrph posted:That looks really awesome. Can you give any tips on how you did the rust on the doors? Like, how did you achieve that effect, what colors did you use, etc. Thanks! I sprayed it all red-brown first for the basic colour, then put on a few small blobs of some nearly dried-out old dark yellow paint I've got and left that to dry. Gave it a bit of a sand with fine wet and dry, then put some Copydex (latex glue) over the rust spots. Spray the top coat, leave that to dry then just rub off the bits where the glue was. I did some dry brushing after that too. I need to make some windows for it but haven't got a clue how. I got some OHP acetate but I think it's too thin. I might just leave it as it is and pretend the windows are either broken or really, really clean.
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May 31, 2010 20:53
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My attempt to turn this: ... into this:  ... has pretty much ground to a halt, resulting in this:   (I'm going to do something about that Dharma logo, but not sure what at the moment)   Not perfect by any stretch but it looks OK when it's on top of my TV. Windows would be nice, but I have no idea how I could make them. The rear ventilators look a bit crap too but then I carved them out of a wooden peg so give me a break.
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Jun 25, 2010 08:54
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hentaipanda posted:So I'm about to finish 2 model cars (a '66 Shelby GT 350R and a Jaguar XK SS). Everything was going great, up until when I had to put the windows and windshields in. I managed to get glue smudges on pretty much all of them. Is there a way to get them off somehow? I tried with paint thinner on the Jag's windshield but that just made the plastic get blurry (speaking of which, is there a way to fix that?). What else can I try? I just did something similar with a helicopter I'm building, and I sanded it with very fine wet and dry and then used a small Dremel-type tool with soft polishing wheel to get it off.  It's not perfect, but it's a lot better than it was. 
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Aug 5, 2010 12:59
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Xenomrph posted:New pics of my "wacky WWII"-themed model kits and miniatures: I love stuff like this. This is what I've been making recently (not finished, obviously)  - it's a Hughes Devastator from Crimson Skies, for those that don't know.
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Aug 23, 2010 11:22
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What scale is 'Museum scale'? Mine's 1/72, converted from (mostly) an Airfix Hawker Sea Fury kit. I'm tempted to try a 1/48 next. This place says they have both the Devastator and the Fury for £24.95 each, but I've never heard of the shop before.
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Aug 24, 2010 12:56
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Well, that's done. Can you spot the  
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Aug 30, 2010 16:05
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Xenomrph posted:You forgot to add guns to it? OK, two... No Pun Intended posted:The Devastator has 2 props. ... OK, three mistakes. I didn't have anything that looked right for the guns, and making a six bladed counter rotating prop seemed like too much effort considering I had a nice 5-bladed one right there, and besides, in the PC game the model actually has a 4-bladed prop. I actually meant that I forgot to weight the nose; it should be hanging horizontally. Shifting the support backwards would fix that, but I spent ages getting it 'right' in the first place so I'll just pretend it's some sort of 'action pose'. References: mainly screenshots from the PC game, but I also found one of the old CS books on the net as a PDF which had some (not very good) plans in it. And finally, if anyone likes Crimson Skies and hasn't read Research Indicates' 'Let's Play' thread they should do it because it got me dusting off my CD to replay the game as well as making this thing. edit: yeah, that is a really nice boat. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 09:39
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That Spitfire looks really nice, but too big (and expensive) for me right now. Everything I get seems to be some re-re-release of a lumpy, warped 60s model that ends up with more putty than plastic by the time I've finished it. So, could someone recommend me the nicest engineered 1/72nd fighter-sized plane kit that they know of, preferably WW2 or before? There's got to be some really nice ones out there but I can't find any sites that rank kits by how well designed + manufactured they are. I just want to see what the state of the art is in model kits without blowing £100.
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Nov 2, 2010 17:25
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compressioncut posted:
Exactly the problem I had. I got the Revell He70 and it turned out to be a Matchbox kit from the 70s. The P47 looks nice, but now I've kind of got my eye on this ugly bastard. Anyone tried Trumpeter?
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Nov 3, 2010 20:04
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Despite everyone recommending the Trumpeter kit, I found an Eduard 1/48 DH-2 in the shop and liked the look of it. Nearly done now; I thought it didn't look that bad, considering how fiddly it was. ...and then I found some pics on the web of what others had done with the same kit:  Still, that's just one guy, right? I bet no-one else...  ... oh. How do they do that sort of thing, anyway?  Jesus christ.
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Dec 5, 2010 12:34
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big_g posted:Nice cock  Does that background stuff come pre-built or as a kit or what? I like diorama scenes like that, and that's a nice looking one.
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Jan 14, 2011 19:47
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big_g posted:It came with the kit I just beat it up a bit and left a few panels off. Going to slap the first coats of paint on today time permitting. Isn't it easier to paint some parts before finishing the assembly? Are some bits there going to come off for that? Anyway, if anyone wants a nice big detailed plane for not much money I recommend the Revell 1/32nd Arado 196. It only costs about £25 and it's a brand new kit. Nearly finished mine. 
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Feb 19, 2011 22:06
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Nebakenezzer posted:I like the livery color. Some post war search and rescue option? Nah, it's from Tintin. 
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Feb 21, 2011 08:37
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Doing OK with print your own decals now. 
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Apr 17, 2011 13:14
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Nebakenezzer posted:Nice! I must know how you did this. Took the top image, screwed around with it in photoshop so it just had the graffiti at the right scale then printed out on this stuff: http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/productdetail.aspx?productcode=151 Then varnish it for waterproofing, then stick it on the sides of the APC. It comes out rather thick so I actually covered the entire side of the thing with one piece, which eliminates any edges showing. (Sounds pretty easy, but that's the fifth or sixth attempt. And the reason I'm not showing you the other side is that it's not as good as that one.)
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Apr 18, 2011 10:42
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Pretty much done with this now. 
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Apr 22, 2011 17:58
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SkunkDuster posted:I remember seeing a page showing how a guy detailed a cockpit by first laying down his highlight color in either acrylic or enamel, then laying down the base color in lacquer. After the lacquer dried, he used a bit of lacquer thinner on the tip of a toothpick to remove the lacquer from the bezels and tick marks on the instrument panel which would expose the highlight color. Does anybody know what I'm talking about and have a link to a page that describes that method? Not heard of that one but it sounds like it would work. Maybe try it on a bit of spare kit, see how it goes? Anyway, this what I've been doing lately. 72nd scale from Finemolds.   
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Sep 17, 2011 16:47
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who cares posted:I've got half of my lunar module built, and for my first ever model, I think it's going well. I've made a million mistakes but I'm learning a lot and having a great time. You could seal it with varnish; if you're not using an airbrush, you can get spray cans of gloss or matt varnish and use the appropriate one. Mask off any areas you don't want sprayed with tape, but use proper masking tape so it won't pull any paint off. Masking that foil might be tricky, though. Also, ideally you want a varnish that won't react with the paint, so enamel varnish with acrylic paint, or acrylic varnish with enamel paint (although I have used acrylic/acrylic without it screwing up, so that might not be essential). There's a build article for the Revell Lunar Lander here but I warn you that it might make you a bit depressed.
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Oct 13, 2011 10:44
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And here's a single coloured BF-109. Not an F, but you can't have everything.
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Oct 21, 2011 16:29
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There's a build log for that one here. Looks like he had similar problems.
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Nov 1, 2011 13:58
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Kent Lind looks awesome, though.
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Dec 27, 2011 21:58
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I made a thing: Airfix 144th scale Vostok 1 + launcher. Very old kit from the 60s I think, but that only took me a couple of days and looks like the thing it's supposed to look like, so that's a result in my book.
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Mar 18, 2012 17:48
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I made another thing; 1:32nd Airfix Ford Escort Mk1. This is a terrible kit that must date from the 60s or so. Still, I had fun with it.   
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May 8, 2012 19:19
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Wibbleman posted:Good job, but one thing I would have changed would have been the windows, as you fogged them up, I would have sanded them thinner or swapped for some thin sheet plastic (like the stuff that blister packs are made from). As with the break, the front windshield looks way too thick (sorry for super picky). The rust job is fantastic, did you use pigments? Yeah, the windows are way too thick but I only really noticed that once I'd actually broken the front one. How would you use the thin plastic? Just bend it into shape or mould it? I guess I could have used the original windscreen as a mould but hey, too late now. I'll chalk that one up as a learning experience. To be honest, I didn't mean to fog them up that badly either.  The rust is all acrylic paint; I spray it all Aluminium to start with, then paint red-brown (Tamiya XF-64, I am addicted to it) in the rusty bits, then blob on some PVA glue and then spray the top coat. When that's dry, peel off the glue to leave a big rusty patch, then finish off with some brighter orange and maybe some more diluted red-brown as a wash.
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May 10, 2012 09:18
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AIrfix Seafire FR47, 1/48th. I started this about a year ago meanining to finish it in a weekend, but then, you know, life. Anyway, done now.  
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Feb 28, 2013 22:37
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Nebakenezzer posted:Lovely. Was the kit well made? Also, is that a porthole behind the cockpit? It's a really nice kit in fit and detail, but there are three weird issues; the rear cockpit bit doesn't fit at all, the gear legs just don't fit in the holes unless you cut off a flange bit, and there's nothing to actually hold the folded wings up like that; I had to superglue them, and one actually just came off after I took the pictures. Everything else is great though. And it's a 'porthole' for a camera, I think they did a bit of photo-reconnaissance with it. No camera in the kit, though, so don't look too close.
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Feb 28, 2013 23:24
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Morgenthau posted:
Thanks - the wings come separated or together (there's actually two completely different sets of wing parts), but as I said above, there's nothing to attach the two folded halves of the wing together except glueing them along the edge, which is fragile at best. I probably should have drilled holes in the ends and made a little 'hinge' bit from wire or something to strengthen it, but I wanted to get it finished. Up next:  - because I've been playing too much War Thunder
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Mar 1, 2013 20:42
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If you like the planes but don't like the swastikas, there's always this sort of thing: http://theaviationanorak.blogspot.com/2011/04/picture-for-today-is.html Unkempt fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 01:08
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This looks loving awesome and I'm really tempted to get one. http://www.hlj.com/product/aos04928  Just look at all that sweet poo poo you get with. quote:Another great forklift kit from Aoshima! This cool model of the Toyota L&F Geneo 25 forklift in service at a fish market is very nicely detailed and includes 10 Skipjack Tuna fish, one large and one small frozen fish container, a guard rail, your choice of long or normal lifting forks, a propane gas kit, one driver figure (with choice of heads), and decals.
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May 6, 2013 21:31
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Baronjutter posted:I'm printing my own decals on decal paper and I've found they're a bit thicker than some you'd get from a kit. Guess I have to live with it... If you're applying them to big flat surfaces like with that graffiti, you can make the decal big enough to cover the whole surface and just past the edges and then trim it when it's dry. Uses more decal paper but you can't see the edge because there isn't one. That's how I did this:  The whole flat side there is decal.
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Jun 13, 2013 03:34
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