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Hello. I've been posting a little about initial designs for a staircase in my house. I posted an initial idea in the woodworking thread, and the denizens helpfully pointed out a number of issues in terms of a) the (lack of) robustness of the joints and b) the level of skill required. So I've had a go at a simpler more traditional design and I believe I've now gotten as far as I can on my own, so please dig in and tell me where I've gone wrong. I'm going to mix imperial and metric and I'm sorry about that, but you'll have to do some conversions on the fly same as me. Some data: - 208mm rises, 234mm goings (runs) - Fits the `18" rule`; r + g = 17.4" - Fits the `25" rule`; 2r + g = 25.59" - Total rise 2500mm with tolerance for finished floor on landing - Total run 2574mm - 12 rises, 11 runs - Pitch angle (along step tips) of 41.7º, I understand this to be high by US standards but my suspicion is it's measured differently. - Full stair width of 850mm (half the hall width) - 18mm risers, 21mm treads, 16mm nosings - Stringers estimated as 2x11s based on my rough poking around, but I'm not married to it if there's better available (in the UK) - To the best of my understanding the design complies with all UK building regulations. - The balusters are marked as 2" wrought iron, the diameter gives me a good margin for meeting building regs and the material gives a nice colour and finish - The handrail is shown as sitting on top of an iron/steel infill strip fixed to the balusters by someone who isn't me. - That is not the final profile of the handrail, it will be more normal based on buying it premade. - There will be a handhold probably iron ball on top of the flat spot at the base of the bannister handrail. Some points of question: - I've deliberately left the join between the handrails on the bannister and balustrade unfinished because gently caress if I know how I do it, I suspect I'll need to put in a proper newell post in place of the top (and bottom?) - I've not settled on how the balusters would fix to the stairs or landing, on the stairs I've shown them as slotted into holes in the stringer, and for easy of copy/paste same on the landing which may be possible as there's a double header there. - The treads are shown as having their side nosing overlap the stringer a little, I'd like to do so a little more but presumably that's based on how wide the boards are I cut the treads from - That said, there's talk of nosing being a "decorative" element to cover up endgrain and thus presumably something attached to the end? Presumably you don't want to do that on the front of the tread as it'd weaken the step? - Is the third stringer overkill? If so is it so much overkill that it's really not worth doing? - I have rough ideas about how to fix all this to the existing structure but nothing firm. This is pretty much a dump of everything I know about staircases so if I've missed something please call it out.          
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Jan 31, 2018 03:44
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Also, I loving hate Autodesk.
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Jan 31, 2018 14:53
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I'd suggest changing the bottom end slightly to avoid the sharp angle against the floor below, mainly to make cleaning easier.  Make sure you are protected.
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Jan 31, 2018 17:52
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Jaded Burnout posted:Hello. I've been posting a little about initial designs for a staircase in my house. I posted an initial idea in the woodworking thread, and the denizens helpfully pointed out a number of issues in terms of a) the (lack of) robustness of the joints and b) the level of skill required. So I've had a go at a simpler more traditional design and I believe I've now gotten as far as I can on my own, so please dig in and tell me where I've gone wrong. Great start! You do need three stringers if your stairs are more than 3 feet wide. I do think you should figure out how that railing is supported before you spend much more time designing and I don't think drilling into the stringers is the answer but I don't know what is
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Jan 31, 2018 18:17
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nielsm posted:I'd suggest changing the bottom end slightly to avoid the sharp angle against the floor below, mainly to make cleaning easier. Hm. Interesting. There is a nice aesthetic quality to the simplicity of the stairs running straight to the ground, but it's a good point about the practicality of it. I'll give it some thought, thanks! Harry Potter on Ice posted:You do need three stringers if your stairs are more than 3 feet wide They're a little short of that but presumably it wouldn't hurt. Harry Potter on Ice posted:I do think you should figure out how that railing is supported before you spend much more time designing and I don't think drilling into the stringers is the answer but I don't know what is Do you think that's because it wouldn't provide enough support or because it'd weaken the stringers? I've seen some braces designed for this purpose but I'd rather not have them visible if possible. They could be set into the stringers if the former.
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Jan 31, 2018 19:38
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I'm not any kind of engineer at all so maybe this is totally without merit - but something is making me uneasy about the way those stringers meet at your landing. How is that connection being made? Are there floor joists that the ends of the stringers will end up next to and get attached to? I don't know the proper way to do this but I am pretty sure you can't run fasteners "up" through the ends of your stringers and into the bottom of your floor joists.
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Feb 1, 2018 01:53
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Raised by Hamsters posted:I'm not any kind of engineer at all so maybe this is totally without merit - but something is making me uneasy about the way those stringers meet at your landing. How is that connection being made? Are there floor joists that the ends of the stringers will end up next to and get attached to? I don't know the proper way to do this but I am pretty sure you can't run fasteners "up" through the ends of your stringers and into the bottom of your floor joists. TBD at this point, but the landing has a double header on the front face of it and I can remove the ply from the top so my current feel is to bolt them into the face of the header and also fix the left hand stringer into the brick wall. I did cast around the internet for a few ways this is normally done and most of the results seem to just be nailed in, which seems a bit light to me. Edit: on review of the images it seems the angles have changed a little since I last went over this so there's less room for front bolting, but hopefully it still won't be a problem; my (unvalidated) assumption is to provide a new header to sit between the top of the stringers so the stringers can attach horizontally to it, and then fix that to the floor headers via the application of beefy bolts. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Feb 1, 2018 |
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Feb 1, 2018 14:18
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I'd definitely use a real newel post top and bottom for stability, personally. Use that third stringer even if you don't need to based on code/width, you pay for it once and the strength is always there. Also stop that bottom angle at the height of your skirting board, that's enough to get a broom or vacuum in without losing space and won't look weird.
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Feb 2, 2018 09:23
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Yeah, next step is to plan out fixings. I've found a PDF from building control and the woodworking federation which goes through the whole process in detail so I'm just going to follow their guide to the letter. The only thing bothering me about it is they want you to drill down through the top nosing which for me will be stained oak, so I'd rather not. I may do overkill fixings on the top riser instead since they'll be painted.
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Feb 2, 2018 09:57
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I was about to post a question in the other thread asking the best way to deal with my stairs which have a few steps that have split. From the spongyness when them bend now I suspect my house only has 2 stringers. Fit 3 in yours!
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Feb 2, 2018 12:02
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Tomarse posted:I was about to post a question in the other thread asking the best way to deal with my stairs which have a few steps that have split. From the spongyness when them bend now I suspect my house only has 2 stringers. Fit 3 in yours! Most do, by my understanding. You don't legally need 3 until you hit 1m wide, I believe. I'll put 3 in because why not hey.
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Feb 2, 2018 12:05
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I built a staircase over the summer and we extended the stringer up to the top floor so you are building a giant triangle where the staircase is mostly supported by the stringer itself and the nails were just there to keep it from moving side-to-side.
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Feb 2, 2018 16:50
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Jaded Burnout posted:Most do, by my understanding. You don't legally need 3 until you hit 1m wide, I believe. I'll put 3 in because why not hey. Never hurts to overengineer stairs. Consider that you may someday have two 300lb dudes hauling the heaviest thing upstairs down them and the same time, and build so they shrug that kind of pressure off.
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Feb 4, 2018 09:38
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Liquid Communism posted:Never hurts to overengineer stairs. Consider that you may someday have two 300lb dudes hauling the heaviest thing upstairs down them and the same time, and build so they shrug that kind of pressure off. That's my wake you're talking about.
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Feb 4, 2018 09:42
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