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PainterofCrap posted:Where are you located?
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Mar 8, 2024 04:43
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| # ? May 13, 2024 23:59 |
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Uh, yeah; that's hosed up. Any nearby goons that can help prevent a disaster?
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Mar 8, 2024 04:46
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H110Hawk posted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aa_tCzIMJjE
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Mar 8, 2024 04:53
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Do not look into laser with remaining eye. It's hilarious how yolo people get with lasers.
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PainterofCrap posted:Uh, yeah; that's hosed up.
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Mar 8, 2024 04:54
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Hah. If you're out for revenge post that on their online reviews
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Mar 8, 2024 04:55
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This is a broken off faucet handle, and not a weird water heater new attachment needed thing isn't it...
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Mar 9, 2024 01:33
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You could always just put a set of vice grips on it for the meanwhile.
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Mar 9, 2024 01:34
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Spikes32 posted:This is a broken off faucet handle, and not a weird water heater new attachment needed thing isn't it... I suppose it depends on what you're expecting. If you're expecting a wheel like ahose bib that doesn't look like the kind that has that, but the kind you poen with a big screwdriver. It looks like maybe someone broke part of it off, but from the picture I'm not quite sure. It looks perfectly serviceable. If it's tight to open unscrew the packing nut a bit, do your thing, close it and then tighten that back up again.
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Mar 9, 2024 01:38
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Spikes32 posted:This is a broken off faucet handle, and not a weird water heater new attachment needed thing isn't it... Do not try to remove it. Vise-Grips for life (remaining, of the heater).
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Mar 9, 2024 05:59
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That looks perfectly usable with a flat head screwdriver. Besides the beveled edges, it looks exactly like a Rherm drain valve. https://parts.rheem.com/product/RPD...m0aAqS9EALw_wcB
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Mar 9, 2024 15:22
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PainterofCrap posted:Do not try to remove it. Vise-Grips for life (remaining, of the heater). They're not that hard to replace. I've done it before. (Original was a cheap plastic thing that leaked constantly. I replaced it with a metal one that worked fine for the life of the tank.)
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Mar 9, 2024 15:26
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Deteriorata posted:They're not that hard to replace. I've done it before. This is entirely dependent on age, service history and water chemistry. It's not something your should be suggesting in general based on your samples size of one success.
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Mar 9, 2024 15:31
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Our water is on the softer side. Good to know this should work with a flat head or vice grip, I'll be trying to drain it tomorrow.
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Mar 9, 2024 15:41
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Trip report, it is indeed a broken handle the flathead screwdriver didn't work at all. But a vice grip did just fine. Even better, the water heater wasn't too sludge filled and I was able to get it relit with no issues.
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Mar 10, 2024 22:02
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My inherited microwave has a plastic handle that was wrapped in some kind of chromed plastic, which is peeling off: What's the appropriate fix here? Is there some kind of replacement wrap I can put on there, ideally without having to remove the original? Ideally something that looks vaguely appropriate and is easy to keep clean. The handle is, I would guess, around 1-2 inches in diameter.
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Mar 11, 2024 22:37
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Chrome or silver nail polish isn’t going to match, but it is going to be much less obvious.
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Mar 11, 2024 22:49
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:Chrome or silver nail polish isn’t going to match, but it is going to be much less obvious. I'm not too fussed about keeping the original look, but I do want to fix the texture. Where the wrap is peeling off is kind of sharp and unpleasant to handle. I can sand that down easily enough, but I do want to cover the bare plastic underneath. I guess nail polish could be used for that.
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Mar 11, 2024 22:50
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A small piece of vinyl wrap might work. Or if you can remove the handle use bondo, then sand and spraypaint.
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Mar 11, 2024 22:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My inherited microwave has a plastic handle that was wrapped in some kind of chromed plastic, which is peeling off: The easy fix is buying a $25 replacement handle. https://www.amazon.com/WB15X26821-JVM6175SK2SS-JVM7195SK3SS-JVM6175SK1SS-JVM6175EK2ES/dp/B0BXC5DT4V/ref=sr_1_4?sr=8-4
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Mar 11, 2024 23:06
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Motronic posted:The easy fix is buying a $25 replacement handle. https://www.amazon.com/WB15X26821-JVM6175SK2SS-JVM7195SK3SS-JVM6175SK1SS-JVM6175EK2ES/dp/B0BXC5DT4V/ref=sr_1_4?sr=8-4  figures, thank you
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Mar 11, 2024 23:23
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I’m in the north of the UK. I’m sorting out the loft space in my girlfriend’s house so that we can fill it with junk. She owns the top floor of a 1970’s build house which was “refurbished” before she bought it about 3 years ago. When it was refurbished the bathroom and kitchen were moved around and the plumbing for these was done in 15mm Pex pipe which runs in the loft space. The loft is insulated and the pipe work is tacked on the joists above the level of the insulation. None of this pipe is insulated and I assume it probably should be? Or do I just need to ensure we sort her heating thermostat out and make sure the heating is run lots of it ever drops properly cold here?
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Mar 12, 2024 22:26
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When I had this house inspected, one of the things the inspector recommended was putting the carbon monoxide alarm in the basement stairway. His logic was that carbon monoxide is denser than air, so it'll accumulate in the basement first, so the alarm should be lower down so that I get an alert before it accumulates in the living space. I don't see anything obviously wrong with this, but I'd like a fact check from other, more knowledgeable folks. Would it make sense to have two alarms, one for the basement and one for the upstairs? It's not like they're expensive.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:When I had this house inspected, one of the things the inspector recommended was putting the carbon monoxide alarm in the basement stairway. His logic was that carbon monoxide is denser than air, so it'll accumulate in the basement first, so the alarm should be lower down so that I get an alert before it accumulates in the living space. I don't see anything obviously wrong with this, but I'd like a fact check from other, more knowledgeable folks. Would it make sense to have two alarms, one for the basement and one for the upstairs? It's not like they're expensive. The average atomic mass of air is about 29 g/mol. Carbon monoxide is 28 g/mol. It is slightly lighter than air. Put the alarms near the most likely sources of CO - gas water heater, furnace, and fireplace.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:25
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Also a good reference: https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector Generally one per floor, ideally near sources that could potentially output CO as mentioned. If you have to be cheap, near where you're sleeping.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:29
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Thanks, sounds like I need to buy a second detector!Deteriorata posted:The average atomic mass of air is about 29 g/mol. Carbon monoxide is 28 g/mol. It is slightly lighter than air. Mass doesn't necessarily correlate with density, right? Sure, an equivalent quantity of atoms of CO is lighter than the same quantity of atoms of standard atmospheric mix, but how much volume do those two occupy at STP?
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Mar 13, 2024 00:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks, sounds like I need to buy a second detector! A set volume of any gas at a given temperature and pressure contains the same number of particles (Avogadro's Law). The density is directly proportional to the molar mass.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:51
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PV=nRT, right. pressure * volume = (number of molecules) * temperature * constant. Since pressure, temperature, and quantity are fixed, volume is the same. Man, it's been awhile since I did this stuff. That in mind, why do you put CO detectors lower down than smoke detectors? I mean, the difference is pretty drat slight, but surely the relative density of CO would be higher at higher altitudes?
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Mar 13, 2024 01:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:When I had this house inspected, one of the things the inspector recommended was putting the carbon monoxide alarm in the basement stairway. His logic was that carbon monoxide is denser than air, so it'll accumulate in the basement first, so the alarm should be lower down so that I get an alert before it accumulates in the living space. I don't see anything obviously wrong with this, but I'd like a fact check from other, more knowledgeable folks. Would it make sense to have two alarms, one for the basement and one for the upstairs? It's not like they're expensive. Also consider getting a "carbon monoxide monitor" aka https://www.defenderdetectors.com/ll6170.html (this is the only residential level one available afaik). You'd still want an alarm, this is a supplemental thing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_R9NaTRVFE
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Mar 13, 2024 01:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:PV=nRT, right. pressure * volume = (number of molecules) * temperature * constant. Since pressure, temperature, and quantity are fixed, volume is the same. Man, it's been awhile since I did this stuff. No, the relative densities will not change with altitude. There may be reasons for putting a CO detector lower, but it's not due to relative density. Smoke will be hot and rise to the ceiling, so it makes sense to put those high. Perhaps the CO detector is more useful closer to the level of your head where you're inhaling. I don't know.
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Mar 13, 2024 01:11
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facialimpediment posted:Also a good reference: https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector Code in my area is you must have one within x feet of your water heater / furnace.. lucky for me they're close enough only need the one.
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Mar 13, 2024 01:12
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So I have this old lathe and plaster ceiling, and six small recessed lights. I would really like to do some kind of ceiling treatment to cover up the lovely old plaster - something like breadboard or planks or those tiles you stick up. Is there some simple method of getting the recessed light trim to go over whatever I add to the ceiling, or what? I've tried searching this but all I get is thousands of pages on how to install recessed lights which I don't need to do. I can call a professional if I have to but I'm certainly competent to put some breadboard up if it's not too difficult I'd rather save the cash.
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Mar 14, 2024 00:53
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Most of those escutcheons around the lights just snap in with springs. Try pulling on one gently. This will let you know just how far out you can finish the ceiling further.
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Mar 14, 2024 00:59
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If you like the look, put up 1/4" drywall, then cove molding. I had severely flaking paint on the bathroom ceiling, which is plaster. Rather than screw around trying to scrape it all off, I put up 1/4" It's been over 20-years & it's holding up well.
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Mar 14, 2024 03:29
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kid sinister posted:Most of those escutcheons around the lights just snap in with springs. Try pulling on one gently. This will let you know just how far out you can finish the ceiling further. Yeah, see if you can work a putty knife under the edge. They may just slide out with gentle prying Can you post a picture?
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Mar 14, 2024 05:36
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I inherited a silver bowl that hadn't been polished in probably over 40 years. It was, of course, badly tarnished. I got some silver polish ("Wright's Silver Cream", some kind of foaming paste with quartz as an abrasive), and it mostly works, but a) it takes a ton of elbow grease, and b) it's not getting some spots, leaving dark rings behind. Any advice/suggestions for ways to more thoroughly clean this, ideally without ruining my shoulders in the process?
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Mar 14, 2024 20:40
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Random q for the chat - had a home inspection today and the pipes in the house are polyB Ok, no huge deal, I've paid to re-pipe a house before that needed it (old CPVC) HOWEVER this house has a kitchen island/counter thing where the sink and dishwasher are that could only be fed from a supply that runs through the foundation. I am trying to find out what types of in-ground/foundation plumbing was used in the 90s that may be likely used in this case as well - any ideas or references?
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Mar 14, 2024 22:13
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FormatAmerica posted:Random q for the chat - had a home inspection today and the pipes in the house are polyB Probably going to vary based on the state, if it was Texas for ex. It would be copper as I don't think anything else could be put under a slab. (Had to be brazed, certain compression fittings were only added to code a couple years ago iirc)
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Mar 15, 2024 04:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I inherited a silver bowl that hadn't been polished in probably over 40 years. It was, of course, badly tarnished. I got some silver polish ("Wright's Silver Cream", some kind of foaming paste with quartz as an abrasive), and it mostly works, but a) it takes a ton of elbow grease, and b) it's not getting some spots, leaving dark rings behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rScF3-4wVQs
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Mar 15, 2024 17:46
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I'm not sure if there's a full plumbing thread but this is a minor problem so I thought I'd ask here. I have an heated towel rail in my bathroom that is leaking. It's a slow leak, just the occasional drip from what I can see. How do I fix it?  The leak is coming, from what I can tell, from the thick horizontal cylinder pointing into the center of the radiator. This will be my first time doing any plumbing so step by step instructions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Mar 16, 2024 01:00
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PriorMarcus posted:I'm not sure if there's a full plumbing thread but this is a minor problem so I thought I'd ask here. There is in fact a plumbing thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131944 That looks like it's potentially an air bleeder valve and that all looks like very Svenska plumbing which I'm not at all up on parts for, but I bet someone over there is.
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Mar 16, 2024 01:12
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