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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I’d be more concerned with the magnets chipping or breaking and those fragments falling into your electronics, but you should be good as long as you don’t over tighten them or let them slap together really hard if you have mating ones mounted on the sign.

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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I got a bookend from a fancy design shop. Unfortunately, it’s poorly designed.

It seems like as an afterthought, the designer added a piece of double sided silicone tape and superglued it to the bottom to resist sliding. I think the tape is ugly. It’s already gummed up with dust and won’t stay grippy forever. Also, it raises the book-side of the bookend up, which makes it prone to tipping over to the front or back, parallel to the pages of each book.




It’s made from eighth inch thick enameled steel pipe. It’s very heavy, but inherently unstable and also prone to tipping toward the books if one is taken out. It takes barely any force to tip over in any of three directions if it isn’t braced with a book, and if that happened it would probably fall straight through the glass shelf I have it on right now.

It was a gift and I’m committed to keeping it. It needs some counterweight in the bottom, and a more even and less ugly grip on the bottom.

My current plan is to cut some L shaped rubber strip and place it all around the bottom opening as a grip, so it evenly supports the bookend but is just barely visible, then force fit in a container of sand or pennies that’s just the right diameter?

How would you fix this?

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Good ideas, thank you. Yeah, I should carve/cast a single stopper for the end out of rubber/epoxy, instead of fussing with the rubber strip like my previous plan. Actually I think a hockey puck might be close to the perfect size.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

The little fuzzy purple strips that keep the "motorhead" on my Dyson from scraping up my floors have worn off. Now, it just scrapes up my floors. What would be a good something to replace them with?

caution: gross vacuum cleaner pic



The Dyson website has a lot of replacement brush bars, but if that or their customer service can’t help, or you don’t wanna get a whole new officially licensed sole plate or whatever, you could try ... stick on brush weatherstripping? Not sure on the height of the pile on the dyson, but I think you can get weatherstripping that’s a quarter inch tall and above. Also, not really sure how that part fits into the sole plate, but maybe stick on furniture sliders if you can find the right shape?

The official dyson part will probably perform the best, cause weatherstripping might not be able to seal the plate against the floor for max suction? But it would probably work to an extent.

edit: you’re talking about the stationary purple strip A right? Not the rotating brush B? Sorry for unintentionally drawing a dumb face on this pic. If it’s the rotating part, I would not gently caress with a high RPM moving part like that and would just get an official replacement.

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Dec 31, 2020

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

melon cat posted:

Century homes, yo. One of my neighbours opened up a wall for some renovations and found it to be insulated with... pants. Lots and lots of pants.

Did they send a pic of the pants? I wanna see the wall pants. Old pants fetch good money, especially old Levi’s, and if they’re old enough condition literally does not matter.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

melon cat posted:

Ask and ye shall receive



Also some antique liquor bottles. :clint:

drat those are incredible and well preserved for what they are. The cut and construction make me think turn of the century but the snap closure makes me think a few decades later, 1920s or 30s maybe, but doesn’t preclude them being older. Those would make a collector’s day and I’d offer to buy em if I was still flipping clothing!

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

What kind of weatherstripping should I get for the front door to my apartment to seal it from the outside air in the common area? This is for coronavirus concerns when my anti-mask neighbors inevitably bring it home, and to prevent cooking smells from penetrating my unit. The gap that you can see daylight through is about 2mm, but it's uneven all around the door.





Yes I could ask my landlord to do this since it is a rented apartment but you may be able to tell, based on the quality of his previous work, why I want to just do it myself.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Deviant posted:

i would simply tell your neighbors to stop breathing directly into the crack in your door

Unfortunately there's a constant stream of air coming through the crack around the door, enough that I can feel it with my hand (which is also why the door frame looks as dirty as a return air register). I guess it's probably due to the fact that I'm on the top floor, hot air from the stairwell rises, leaks through my door and then exits through a leaky skylight on my ceiling.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Rexxed posted:

The best way to do it would be something like aluminum door gasket carrier that gets nailed or screwed into place and a gasket added to it. Since this is a rental with chunky paint I'd probably just go for something easier/cheaper/less permanent like some commonly available adhesive stuff. You'll just need to clean the surface you're sticking it to with something that dries quickly and degreases like rubbing alcohol.

There's tons of stuff like this on amazon that squishes down and would probably be good for your use case if you put some of it on the part that faces you when the door is open, so the door pushes into it when it's closed. This is just an example, you can find a ton of different ones. I'd just get white so it doesn't stand out:
https://smile.amazon.com/Keeping-Stripping-Adhesive-Soundproofing-Weatherstrip/dp/B077LJT1F8/

Something like that should work for the side(s) and top if there's room. On the bottom you usually install a sweep kind of thing which can get more invasive since it has to flex and usually gets screwed onto the door, but there's a lot of different kinds and you didn't mention that part specifically. They do make some adhesive ones but it's got a lot more adhesive on it so your landlord might not like it but they're on amazon, too. You could also go with one of those cloth things filled with some foam and sand or whatever that are used to keep drafts out, just slide it into place against the bottom when the door is closed. The goal is really to stop air and not make an impenetrable fortress. If that's not enough look at soundproof door gaskets since it's a deep rabbit hole to search through. The main thing is that they tend to block air movement.

Thanks, this is in stock at Home Depot so I'll get some today and see how it works out. Luckily there is already a sweep on the bottom of the door.

By the way, which surface should I stick it to? A or B? A is the closest to the outside, in the same plane as the door, and B is perpendicular to the door. I'm assuming I should stick it to B, because A might get in the way of the door closing.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Is there a framing thread? I have an old and very rare silk screen print that I really need to get into a frame, and I'm trying to do it to archival standards or somewhat cheaply/DIY.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Cyrano4747 posted:

Archival standard and cheap are usually pretty mutually exclusive.

I guess my budget is about $200. Not the bottom of the barrel for framing, but definitely not as expensive as the fancy framing shops around here. And a piece that has as many issues as mine might be more expensive.

If anyone else has advice:

I was looking at the "premium" model of these frames, which claim to be made with archival materials.
https://www.hollywoodposterframes.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=frames

Assuming that website does offer decent frames, I still need to figure out how some other parts like the moisture barrier and dist cover, and how to install this print in the mat, and with what type of glue/tape.

http://www.hymnscript.com/fine-art-framing.html


The piece is silk screen of "Supernovae" by Victor Vasarely for the Met. Probably printed around the 1960s?

It's an early and influential work and a rare print as far as Vasarelys go, but it has some issues. I found it in the basement of an estate sale, and it had severe water and mold damage on the bottom. I cut those portions off and threw them away. It was also pasted on a foam board that I got rid of, and it still has a ton of dried adhesive smeared on the back. You can see the corner has some rippling to it from the water damage, but I cut off all the stains.

Considering I rescued this print from a dumpster and I've already cut off a big portion of it, I guess a strict conservator's approach to framing isn't really warranted. Also, I'm assuming testing the pH of the adhesive on the back of the print and getting a suitable buffer is out of my price range. But I would at least like to have a frame that won't visibly degrade it in a few decades. Considering all this print has been through, maybe that can't even be guaranteed. Or maybe I'm off base and this is overkill for a trashed print.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

What tool do I need to get this extremely tight nut unscrewed?

It’s part of a desk lamp. It’s not really “stuck” but I think it was tightened extremely hard at the factory for no reason. It holds a steel weight against the aluminum base of the lamp with a threaded brass rod. I tried using an adjustable wrench but there’ll not enough room to turn it. I bought this lovely offset wrench but I can’t even get it to budge and the wrench kept slipping off, maybe partly because the nut doesn’t have a lot of thickness to engage with.



kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Rexxed posted:

Stick it in the freezer overnight to shrink the metal a little.

wait would that actually do anything? Both the threaded rod and the nut are brass so I didn’t think it would get me anywhere

Time to figure out what ratchet set I want to buy, thanks all

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Admiral Joeslop posted:





I just remembered mine had a yellow cord.

Oh man I could think of more creative ways to reuse all the phone jacks in my house before I tear out and patch over them. I have one of these phones at home that I got at an estate sale.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Magnetic North posted:

Not sure where to else post this. I was thinking of getting an air filter / purifier to help with the dust in my apartment, particularly in the high-traffic room that is also my WFH zone. They're expensive enough that I feel I should seek out some information about getting a good and quiet one and learn about the qualities they have, if possible.

I will say that dusting/vacuuming often (weekly or more) seemed to do more for my indoor air quality (when I was WFH at least) than anything else.

Beyond that, there is a lot of information here on selection of an air purifier for your space. https://cleanaircrew.org/air-cleaners/ This is oriented toward covid prevention, but it’s the same principle. You determine what your space needs first, then determine which unit best meets your needs and budget.

https://imgur.com/a/7C6QqQq

Also, I own a Coway Airmega AP-1512HH because that’s what wirecutter recommended, and I like it ok, except that it’s kinda ugly, I’m skeptical how well it would do in larger spaces, and it’s kind of cheaply constructed.

You can also get an air quality monitor to monitor pollution. Aranet and Airthings are two big names in those but I don’t own any so I can’t speak to their benefits.

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Dec 14, 2022

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Magnetic North posted:

That's kind of what I'm hoping to avoid. My modestly sized apartment has lots of furniture and stuff in it (not the least being my ever expanding WFH setup) so I was hoping for a passive buff to my dust defense rather than needing to turn the place upside down regularly. Normally I'd be game for a regular cleaning regimen but my positive energy is being spent trying to get out of my stupid shithole job.

I did notice less dusting was necessary in my 1 bedroom apartment with my Coway running at medium speed 24/7, for what that’s worth. I can’t really quantify it because it was back in 2020, but the dust accumulation wasn’t reduced by a huge amount. Even though there was dust accumulating, the filter still seemed to help my sinuses, though. I too had a lot of furniture and stuff, and since it was an option for me, I ended up selling a lot of my knick knacks to make cleaning easier.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Happiness Commando posted:

I want an N100 respirator. Half face, ideally. I went to my local not-home depot hardware store and they had a couple P95 models, but that's it. Is there a reputable place online I can buy from that will sell authentic and legitimately protective filters, or should I go to home depot or what?

You sound like you know enough to not buy PPE from Amazon, Walmart, or anywhere else with a third party marketplace, so that’s good. I get a lot of my safety stuff from Jendco for no reason except they ship quickly, have good customer service, and had my mask of choice (Honeywell North 7700 series) in stock. Other established suppliers for masks are Grainger, Zoro (big companies with established supply chains).

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I completely forgot about forgeries and recently bought a pack of 3M Aura masks off of Amazon :doh:

Is there any reliable way to tell if I got counterfeits, or to test the masks' functionality?

The only real way to functionally test auras is destructive. There’s some info here on red flags for counterfeits and the authentication process, which still doesn’t 100% guarantee authenticity https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1960842O/3m-8210-9205-9210-counterfeit-communication-letter.pdf

For my money, I steer clear of anything even slightly questionable when it comes to PPE

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Thanks! My lot number isn't on there, but as you note that doesn't guarantee anything.

My use case is pandemic protection while I'm out in public. I have a proper half-mask respirator for when I need dust mitigation. Does anyone know how much function counterfeit masks actually provide in practice? I could believe anywhere from "nothing" to "maybe half as much filtration as a real mask". These masks do at least make a proper seal on the face, so they should be filtering my breath on its way out...

This is the most I could find. He evidently tested the counterfeit masks with his apparatus, but doesn’t say how effective they were in this video. Maybe that was intentional or maybe it’s in another one of his videos. He might respond on Twitter if you really want to know.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_LOyzaKYIpc

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:

What would be the cheapest way of obtaining a trivial amount of .020" bare stainless wire? I want to repair a cheese slicer, and the best I can find is a 930 foot can

Buy some nice cheese from an independent cheese shop and then see if you can sweet talk/guilt your way into them giving you a length of wire.

Or, try to thrift a cheese slicer and salvage the wire. I see them all the time in thrift shops.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Happiness Commando posted:

I live in a 5 unit rental with a shared boiler. One of my rooms is always too hot, and today I poked at the baseboard heater to see if I could disconnect it. I was under the assumption it was electric, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Is this the point where I - a barely handy renter who isn't going to get the property management company involved - stop everything and just deal with it? Or is there actually a sane and safe way for me to turn off this baseboard heater? I assume they're probably closed loops, so a shutoff valve wouldn't make sense. It's hard to get a photo of the other side, but I don't see anything remotely valve like.



Nicer landlords will install thermostatic valves on radiators to regulate the temperature of each room. As far as I know that’s the only real way. I wouldn’t attempt installing or adjusting any valves as a tenant — too much liability and uncertainly on old systems. I’m afraid the only real tenant hack is cracking a window.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I support the bird house camera idea because it sounds like something I’d conceive as an 8 year old while designing my “ultimate house”.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I’ve got this valve that under the sink that drips slowly but only when it’s shut off. As a matter of fact, you can see it dripping in this photo. It’s old, but not older than the 1980s. After a cursory web review, basic/tier 1 handyman info says to correct this, tighten the packing nut slightly. This correct?

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Ty for the advice. However,

PainterofCrap posted:

quarter-turn compression valve

What is this? Do you mean quarter turn ball valve (superior) or compression valve (what I have now, but not a 90 degree bend)?

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

How would you find the inlet of a yard drain that you’ve only found the outlet to? I checked during a rain storm and there is no visible outflow.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

kid sinister posted:

Could be a French drain. All of the inlets are buried.

Maybe. Then is there any way to identify whether I have a French drain or a yard drain that’s just been blocked or grown over?

Everything in this house has been constructed as cheaply as possible and then neglected the last few years, if that makes any difference. Whatever it is, I can be pretty sure it’s cheap poo poo.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Sounds like this is not a fix that will get done fast. Thx for the suggestions all

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I want to get LED bulbs for these two lamps that I use daily as supplemental/night lighting. The larger lamp has a frosted candelabra bulb and the smaller one has a standard size half chrome bulb.



Whenever LED bulbs are brought up, it's always pointed out that cheap LEDs suck and high quality ones are the only ones worth the money. What are some high quality ones? Are these bulbrite ones from home depot ok? Unfortunately for the half chrome bulb, choices are very limited.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bulbrite-40W-Equivalent-Warm-White-Light-A19-Dimmable-LED-Half-Chrome-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-861426/304268868

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bulbrit...61427/303722111

edit: censored my dumb reflection

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Aug 5, 2023

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Motronic posted:

If they're being sold there, probably not.

If you want to shop retail go to an actual lighting stre that sells fixtures and lamps. If you want to order online use 1000bulbs.com or similar, and don't settle for anything less than 90+ CRI as its a big indicator of overall quality, not just color rendering.

Ok that's good info, I didn't even know CRI existed as a measurement of lighting quality.

Despite appearing to be almost identical to the Bulbrite (CRI 80) one, this Satco one is rated better (CRI 90). So I guess I'll go with this.

https://www.satco.com/products/S12421

The frosted/milky white candelabra ones are more difficult to find with a higher CRI rating. Philips is supposed to be a pretty good LED brand I think, and they brag about the high CRI rating on these, the DIY route might be getting these clear ones and trying to etch the glass myself.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips...67461/321121534

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Aug 6, 2023

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

How the gently caress do I change the bulb in this thing without breaking it?



No but cool lamp

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Been on vacation but haven't made much progress on this sadly.

The silver part on the base can be partially tilted off...



but the cord on the other side is blocking it from coming off completely.



The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there.



I'd definitely peel back the felt and go from there. The felt can be easily replaced if you mess it up, but not the other parts of the lamp if you try to pry them apart.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007



On the god awful 1980s builder grade range hood that came with our house, there is an identification label. I know what CFM means but what is HOR and VER and why do they seemingly have the same CFM rating but different sones ratings?

This is for the purpose of benchmarking our current range hood and buying a quieter one.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Motronic posted:

Horizontal or vertical exit.

Makes sense, thanks

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I'm having trouble removing a suspected dog odor from my house.

I bought two chairs at an estate sale and didn't realize until I got them home that they have a VERY strong dog smell. Not urine, just like...dog smell. Before I even took them inside I vacuumed them off and then they spent two days in one room in my house. The smell was overwhelming, so I took the cushions off and put them in the trunk of my car until I figure out what to do with them (probably trash them). The frames of the chairs are powdercoated metal and don't have any detectable odor so I moved them to another room while I order replacement covers.

Two full days after removing the chair cushions, the first room still has the dog smell and it's not getting better, despite me purging the air out the window with a box fan while running a HEPA filter for 48 hours, dusting and then vacuuming. The room is carpeted which may make a difference. Tonight I'm going to coat the carpet with baking soda and see if that works. I've bought some rank vintage junk before but this is by far the worst smelling thing I've ever owned.

Any other suggestions?

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

strategery posted:

Hey all. Looking to see if there are comparable options to this shelving solution. I wanted to get 72" shelves from Home Depot or Lowes and use something like this to create a 3-tier shelf solution but wanted to see if there were other options.



These are a similar modular look https://stringfurniture.com/

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

alnilam posted:

Doors: Heavier doors? (They are single panel shaker style, so pretty thin for most of their area)
Is there a way to test out if the doors are the issue? Maybe replace just one and see how much that fixes things in that bedroom?

If I remember correctly doors are rated based on how much sound they dampen and the difference between a hollow core and solid wood is significant. But that will only go so far if the door is surrounded by other less insulated materials.

Rugs and to some extent other furnishings make a noticeable difference. Rugs should at least be underneath all your seating and beds just as much for sound dampening as to protect the floors.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Wtf are these hinges and how do I adjust them? There are two hinges on each door. A buyer is picking up this armoire (1990s Danish) tomorrow and I just noticed the doors are misaligned, see last photo, help.





kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Dr. Lunchables posted:

That sounds like a problem for this 1990s danish guy.

If only!

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:


They are European style hinges. The screws circled in red are the ones you use to adjust things.

The screw on the left will move the door left/right, the one on the right will move it forwards/back (I may have these two screws reversed-test it out) and the two in the middle you can loosen on both sets of hinges to slide the door up or down.

This worked well enough to get the doors to stop rubbing against each other. Thanks. Definitely a tricky operation with a 3ft high door.

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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Water softeners are the only way to achieve rich person hair.

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