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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Is there a thread or go-to resource for sealing/flooring over asbestos tiles?

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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Wood glue with sawdust

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Rent a sawzall and saw the gap between the board and the posts, keeping the blade angled upward

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I will always evangelize the Sawzall, and it’s smaller brother the Hackzall. Pray with us at the Brushless Church, children. Come hear the word of M18.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



You can varnish it. Or clear sealant. Basically anything that stops air exposure will stop oxidation.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Recommendations on how to de-stink a fridge?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



kid sinister posted:

Stick an open box of baking soda in there. When was the last time you cleaned it?

New house, new (to us) fridge. Someone else’s stink. I’ve gutted it down to the coils, washed with bleach, 30% acetic acid, and baking soda solution. The stink is embedded in all lubricants, the plastic, and the styrofoam air channels. Right now I’ve got stuff sitting in sunlight covered with baking soda. I’ve tried to remove all silicone grease, and I’ve sprayed the coils multiple times.

If I can’t get this out I might have to sell this fridge. It’s only like two or three years old at most, but the previous owners apparently had a power outage and just let poo poo rot in there.

e: for clarity, I did not bleach then vinegar and inhale deeply.. Thorough soakings in between, each an unsuccessful attempt at removing stink.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



It’s like a $2500 fridge. :negative:

Why don’t people clean their stuff? It just takes a few minutes…

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



PainterofCrap posted:

My house was built in 1930, and we bought it from the son of the original owner. In the basement, it had several carbon tetrachloride globes mounted in wire frames screwed into the floor joists.

The dryer was vented into the basement to supply 'supplemental heat.'

The only grounded receptacles were in the kitchen. The wiring was a blend of knob & tube and romex, work done by some magician in 1974.

Its been a fun ride.

drat, you have fire grenades? That’s pretty neat.

I’m currently renting (and moving out of in a month, thank god) a 130 year old house and this place is a Frankenstein of cheap fixes and lovely half assery

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



H110Hawk posted:

Hrm. I think I have citric acid powder actually. This is what jet dry claims to be but I'm no chemist. Really it would be nice to not have everything take 20 minutes longer and in theory more electricity. I should climb under the sink and hook up my kill-a-watt.



I am a chemist (though I’ve got no experience with sodium xylenesulfonate) but the aforementioned is mainly a coupling agent and viscosity modifier. It can be used to thicken or emulsify solutions, or as a wetting agent. Basically it’s used to help spread the soap and change the foaming characteristics.

It looks like it costs about $100/kg from whoever AK Scientific is, but you can also get it for $139/kg from Sigma Aldrich. The SDSs I’ve seen make it seem pretty benign if you can find a way to buy it.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Soap Scum posted:

hello all, i'm back with some more stupid newbie first time actually having a house questions =)

so as the summer's gotten hotter, we've been using the ac a bit more, and over time i've noticed that it actually has a relatively significant shaking/rumbling effect that's easily felt throughout the house. the ac unit is lifted up like 10 feet off the ground, roughly flush with the second floor i guess, and the rumbling is especially noticeable in that area of the house/near that wall.

i was wondering if there's anything we might be able to do about this given how noticeable it is. like, you really can just feel your whole body kinda tremoring a little bit. here's some pictures of what it looks like:








i was wondering if, hopefully as an easier option, a dampening pad could be added between the metal casters that it sits on + the metal casters on the ac unit itself. aside from that, i suppose building/inserting something underneath it to transfer some of the vibration down into the ground rather than the house could be helpful. do either of those seem realistic/helpful/possible/effective, or if not, any other ideas?

i'm not looking for a 100% fix, like even a 50 - 75% reduction would be great, but yeah, open to any suggestions / let me know if there's more questions i can answer. thanks!

Dunno if it’s possible given the mounting, but maybe look into spring isolators. They’re made for stuff like this, but usually on a much larger scale.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



ExecuDork posted:

Done. No visible corrosion, and the fuse tests intact on my multimeter (unless I'm using my multimeter wrong, but I think it's showing very low resistance when I touch the probes to the fuse). Is there a way to use a multimeter on the device itself, like by removing the fuse and making the connection across the fuse holder sockets through the multimeter?

Nothing seemed loose in that area but I didn't really yank on anything there. I think I'll just go ahead an order a big box of fuses from Amazon or someplace, I seem to be collecting these devices and having fuses on hand will be useful again eventually.

I mean, multimeters can measure voltage and amperage across a circuit. Plug it into a calculator to see if it should pop that circuit

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Anytime someone asks “is this asbestos?” the answer is either “yes” or “no but it’s covered with asbestos”

People loving loved asbestos back in the day.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Arsenic Lupin posted:

This one's going to wind up being Fix It Slow, I think. I have a 1931 double-hung sash window in my living room. The idiot before me cut the cords and just left it there, unopenable. As far as I can tell, there is nobody remaining in my low-population area who repairs sash windows, so I'm going to have to do it myself. When I google for instructions, at least half the results are for fixing modern sash windows, which operate on a completely different system.

I know I'm going to have to remove trim, but how do I get down into the cavity below the window and retrieve the sash weights? Can anybody recommend a book?

I did a quick google and this is a decent starting point based on the other YouTube recommendations

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LHj6AdIzveU

e: also this

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=no7BjntkFsk

Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jul 24, 2023

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Cut the breaker, shear off what you can, stick half a potato in the socket and unscrew.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’m looking to bury some gutter downspouts in my yard and every article seems to recommend pop up emitters at the end. But they also recommend burying the pipe beneath the frost line, which means a foot of vertical travel at least (42” actually). This seems kinda at odds with the whole idea of an emitter.

I want to run 10-15’ 4” PVC with a 1” drop per foot of distance onto about four inches of gravel at a 2’x2’ termination “box” (a big gravel hole), no emitter. We don’t have city sewer or street storm sewers, so sending it to a collection point doesn’t make sense. Our ground is very sandy, hence the gravel to stop it from forming sinkholes.

Any thoughts or ideas about this plan?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Would putting an access port near the top of the buried pipe make sense so I can snake it? I’m looking at four of these across a house plus one on an external garage, and I want em to be solid and easy maintenance for like twenty years. I figure I’d snake em once in the fall and once in the spring.

e: oh yeah, I’m in MI. Forgot to mention that.

Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Aug 1, 2023

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’m just thinking of snaking more for root intrusion than leaf buildup. I’m gonna be drilling holes the last few feet, giving possible intrusion points.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Clean that up with your solvent of choice and use felt pads

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Electric dual element, if it were my mom

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Fix It Fast: Try Searching for Sex Nuts

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



It’s always due to the airpath from the coil. Most fridges use a single coil to run the freezer and fridge, so start in the freezer and clear anything out of the path of the air vents, then stick some baking soda in the freezer near the vents.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Putting soap on a stain right away is always the answer. Now? Probably also soap. Soap is really good at cleaning stuff.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Should I buy a generator right now and eat the cost? Michigan had seven tornadoes a week and a half ago and I’ve already booked an electrician to wire a switch in.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Take it all out, scrub with 10% bleach, replace with new. You’re gonna want sunlight and time if it’s soaked into the wood or drywall. Hell. Might be time to replace the drywall.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Sunlight and time. Maybe an ozone generator, but wood isn’t as absorptive to gases as it is to straight piss

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Vapor seal it and forget about it (after doing what you can)

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Motronic posted:

Bleach is not effective with this kind of thing. It's more hazardous to the people around it than it is to the potential pathogens.

This is the current best practice. If it does not take care of the smell sufficiently it should be painted with a blocking primer like oil based Kilz.

10% bleach is pretty low on the list of hazards for me, but safety first!

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Are they single piece? Sometimes folks add that quarter stripping for aesthetics, but it’s separate from the rest of the trim

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Battery powered lights are gonna be garbage, because they’re mean to be disposable

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’d probably use a putty knife or similar to scrape paint off the flats and steel wool to take the paint off the hinges. You shouldn’t put thinner or stripper on the hinge while it’s in place.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



e: was not helpful

Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Oct 6, 2023

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



You can do it.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’d go one further: if you know someone with a planer you probably wouldn’t need to buy new boards. Those don’t look like they’re in bad shape, and there’s minimal warping from my quick glances

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:

My windows will be a separate post later, they already have UV coating on them and a space inside that I believe is supposed to be filled with argon that has vented on most of them and is now filled with stains and sometimes mildew. I don't expect to fix them but gosh if I could clean between the panes...

E: gently caress it let's goooo



Sealed pressure vessels fail in Florida sunlight, news at eleven.



There's real actual garbage inside, probably brought in by ants.

You can pull the lever that the bat thing is hanging off of in the first pic to cantilever the top down, then release it from the track. Once we get that far I know gently caress all about getting them open and can't find a brand name on any of them. Does anyone recognize these panes in the rear end and know how to pop 'em apart so I can clean the inside (read: fill it with soapy water and make everything infinitely worse)?

Yeah I don’t think you can. I’ve never heard of being able to clean sealed pane windows, you just replace them when that happens

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Also get aggressive screw anchors. But yeah, toothpicks and wood glue to tighten it up

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I may be wrong about costs here but given that your water heater tank is just a big rear end thermal battery, I doubt you’ll actually use more than $1-3 worth of gas maintaining the water heater. You’ll be gone for five days, I wouldn’t worry about turning off your water, your water heater, or anything else. Just set the thermostat to 55 and walk away.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Ahh, carry on then

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Get your consoles down now cause it will eat every cable

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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I got an m18 fuel torque wrench and holy poo poo I don’t know how I worked on cars without it. It’s easily the best tool I’ve bought ever, no questions asked. The only downside is how drat big the thing is.

Guess I’m gonna have to get one of those stubby ones for the tighter jobs

e: oh drat, this isn’t the tool thread

Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Nov 12, 2023

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