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FogHelmut posted:I think I broached this topic a few months ago in the old thread, but Standing it off would be better, but it's pretty well protected so I wouldn't worry about it so much. The combination of the roof and the elevated footing does most of the work. If you have some material that you can place between the cedar and the concrete (if there is any contact) to prevent moisture wicking up into the cedar, that's the improvement worth making. It can be almost anything, even just a piece of thick plastic (like, 4mil or better) that you cut out of some random packaging. If you search for materials used to create a 'capillary break' you'll get an idea - but since everyone online is talking about foundations, etc. they will be talking about buying a big roll of material, which you probably don't want to do.
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Oct 20, 2020 20:31
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PainterofCrap posted:Old box drawers...I doubt you'll find something that will fit properly. How are your finish carpentry skills? False fronts (blank faces) are the right choice here. The unit really isn't in good enough shape to justify building new drawer boxes or hiring someone to build them for you. Bonus, you can buy drawer fronts to install as false fronts from any cabinetry shop. Just tell them you need two false slab fronts primed for on site paint. Give them the sizes - match the width of the doors below, and for height try to replicate the amount of cabinet face (the reveal) showing around the doors below. They may ask you what edge profile you want, and they can show you some examples so you can pick what will look consistent with the rest of the cabinet.
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Nov 3, 2020 16:24
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Rooster Brooster posted:My question: Is the black/brown stuff in this picture mold? If yes, how do I get rid of it so it does not return, as it seems to be coming from inside/under the overflow drain cap: Is that a giant hole someone cut into the side of your tub, or an optical illusion?
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Nov 5, 2020 01:54
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Jenkl posted:Question on vapour barrier (I'm in cold climate). Post a picture. Most likely it's a minor building sin, but nothing catastrophic.
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Dec 7, 2020 00:56
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Jenkl posted:
In the grand scheme of things, this isn't a big deal. It would get flagging and stuck in a 'things not to do' powerpoint presentation at a building science conference, but it's hard for me to figure out a gross failure that could occur by having the vapor barrier not quite correct in a small area like that bulkhead. I assume this is a basement, so that bulkhead is right around grade. Is there insulation behind it? Vapor permeance through closed cell is a relationship controlled by thickness, so even if you don't have two inches you have some protection already. Is the bulkhead new work? If it is, that might be an issue. The inspector may be less sympathetic if you had a chance to install the barrier and just got the construction sequencing wrong. I'd ask the inspector what they think before installing the vapor barrier. Don't want to have to tear it out because the inspector has a specific way he wants the condition mitigated.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:25
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Jenkl posted:One thing I was thinking about is if insulating that run of duct would help with the idea that the warmth is kept away from any cold back there. If you can stick more insulation between the duct and the exterior wall (ie - between the duct and the spray foam) that can only help. I wouldn't insulate the duct though - as long as it's inside the conditioned envelope (which it is) insulating it isn't going to move the needle very much. If you want to improve the performance of the duct work tape or mastic on the seams is the low hanging fruit. I think your installer did this, but it never hurts to double check and see if there are any missing areas before you seal it all up. The common issue with adhesives and foams are that some adhesives melt foam. So if you aren't sure, just test it on a small piece.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:54
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Motronic posted:If you can't afford to INSTALL a heated driveway I assure you that you can not afford to RUN one either, and that would include whatever temporary mats, etc you might be able to find. I've managed to avoid installing heated exterior slabs for years and finally got a client this year that just won't be dissuaded. The boiler running the heated slabs is significantly larger than the boiler used to heat the house.
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Dec 10, 2020 00:05
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I want to build some shelves next to our new stacked washer/dryer, but I'd like some advice on the best way to go about that. Free standing? Attach it to the wall? The quickest shelving solution is going to be metal wire shelving. Metro is the big brand, there are a lot of vendors and if you want to look at it in person Container Store stocks it. If you want wall mount, also go to Container Store. Their Elfa system is simple and easy, and usually goes on sale in February like 30% off. If you want to go less expensive on wire shelving, Regency is a good second brand. Webstaurant Store stocks it online (it might be their house brand, I'm not sure) and their pricing is good. Shelving.com is also fine, but they have a few proprietary components which they've been phasing out (for a while they had a different bolt on their rolling caster than most other brands) so I've avoided them in the past. I buy a lot of wire shelving, in closet remodels we go for the Elfa and basement/garage work we go for the Regency. ScamWhaleHolyGrail posted:My basement is damp (not wet, but damp enough to grow white crystal mold -- possibly accumulated over time since the house is 95). As far as I can tell, it seems to be mostly just because it's a basement -- largely underground, has zero ventilation. There aren't any signs of walls that are especially wet or signs of drips from above. I would like to not grow more mold and enjoy being down there. Motronic is right about dehumidifiers, gravity drain is your friend. Your basement either needs to be part of your conditioned space, or part of the outside environment. Given what you've posted (appliances are down there, no talk of an insulated and air-sealed ceiling, etc.) your solutions will require you to make the space more like the rest of the house as opposed to making it more like the outside. Since you can afford to take it slow given it's a long term issue, you'll want to figure out how wet the concrete walls and floor of your basement are. You can do this by taping a piece of plastic (like, no smaller than 1x1 foot but it doesn't need to be huge) to the floor and wall and see over the next few months if any moisture accumulates between the concrete and the plastic. You preferably want something that's like 6mil thickness, but no harm seeing what you can find out with a ziploc bag cut open (3mil). Honestly though, it could literally just be your dryer leaking humid air into a basement with poor ventilation/heat. It doesn't take much. Post some pictures if you get a chance. Tezer fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 23:22
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melon cat posted:Any guesses as to what the proper name is for these "triangular braces" shown in this article. But I'm having trouble tracking them down and "triangular braces" isn't yielding any helpful results. It's a Simpson brand component model SBV. https://www.strongtie.com/miscellaneousconnectors_woodconnectors/sbv-cf_productgroup_wcc/p/sbv.cf-r edit: damnit
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Dec 13, 2020 19:58
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PENETRATION TESTS posted:Is there some way for me to trace out the HVAC ducting in my house without punching holes in walls? It's like sudoku. You know where the supply and returns terminate at both ends (in rooms, and in your utility space). They can only travel inside of structural bays and, if they need to cross structural bays, they will be installed in a "soffit" or "bulkhead" built out from the adjacent wall or ceiling. So you start with what you know and most if it you will be able to fill in with some critical thinking. There will probably be at least one mystery left at the end, but this will get you most of the way.
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Dec 17, 2020 00:12
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life is killing me posted:Soooo...twice in a week our master bathroom vanity light fixtures tried to kill us. But not with electricity, see. No, this was with the frosted glass randomly falling off onto the vanity counter. First my wife’s side, then mine. On my wife’s side, it shattered. She had to call me to come bring her some shoes to walk around. For me, it chipped. Why was the fixture getting hot? Generally the only thing that can kick out real heat in a fixture is the wrong wattage incandescent bulb. I'm curious about that. Without getting into niche brands, here are some options. You can also check the line card for your local lighting store, those places are typically good at avoiding the worst of the worst brands: Expensive - Hubbardton Forge Pricy - Rejuvenation, Schoolhouse, WAC Affordable - Kichler, Generation (these brands have expensive options too, but they have a low-end that is largely missing from the above brands) Kuzco is a reasonably affordable brand if you like 'modern' styling, but I think 100% of their catalog is integrated LED which I avoid because you need to replace the entire fixture if there is an issue (ie - no bulb).
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Dec 28, 2020 16:57
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Selachian posted:So I have a door and frame falling out of place on one side -- it's still secure on the other. Looks like it was just held in place by some small nails, visible in second photo. I'm not sure why this is happening -- the door doesn't get slammed, and I haven't noticed any other doors shifting or sticking so it's probably not a foundation issue. (fingers crossed). The door is to a half bath and shower that's used daily, so I think it might have warped from heat and humidity. There are many ways to secure a door frame into an opening, short nails through the trim isn't really one of them. You want to push it back into place and then sink nails/screws through the interior face of the jamb into the side of the framed opening. It's an interior door, it won't take much.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:19
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PENETRATION TESTS posted:So my electrician is suggesting we remove this here stud on my upper floor to install a sub panel. Cool. Is this a hire-a-structural-engineer situation or can any random handyman slap some extra studs onto the left and right side and add a header on top and call it a day? If it's non-load bearing you only need a 2x header installed flat as long as it's within 24 inches of the surface above. If it's bearing, refer to table R602.7(1) of the 2015 IRC which is the code that most US jurisdictions currently use. So ya, your handyman can do it, but ask them "why did you choose that size header?" and if they don't know, then you've got a problem.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:29
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ROJO posted:If the stud is replaced with two studs on either side of the new sub panel (assuming the panel is 14.5"), why would he need a header? If anything it would add to the support of the top plate compared to the current setup. The entire wall isn't open top to bottom, so two new studs can't be installed, but a header can. There's a lot of ways to reframe the wall for this purpose, but given the existing extent of the demolition the installation of a header is probably the easiest. My comment mostly advocates that the op ensure that the handyman is making a deliberate decision (whatever that decision is), as opposed to just sticking some wood in there and calling it a day.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:45
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Blistex posted:Building supply place is telling me that triple pane windows are now a code requirement in Ontario as of Jan 1st, which I can't imagine is true. I'm sure that there is a minimum insulation factor that has to be met, and triple pane is an easy way to get it. Looks like Ontario specifies window thermal performance as a u-factor (pretty typical), but specifically the SI u-factor not the imperial u-factor. So you've got to look at the units - any data in Btu/ft2 is not right, you are looking for w/m2 (there's more to the unit for u-factor, but that difference alone will let you know whether you're looking at SI or imperial data). I'm not familiar with Ontario's building code so I don't want to point you at a specific document, since I may be looking at the wrong one, but the code I pulled up has a u-factor of either 2.0 or 1.7 depending on what design temperature you're specifying for. There is reference to another supplemental document that overrides though, so don't assume I'm giving you the right u factor here, you need to look it up yourself/ask your vendor to help.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:41
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Qubee posted:Or is it a case of the wiring at the socket not being rated for the amount I'm trying to draw, and a double socket setup won't fix that? We can't tell over the internet, but there is a reasonable chance that the socket is not the only component that needs to be upgraded, especially with an electric heater. There is an electrical thread somewhere, they might have more advice.
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Jan 4, 2021 05:20
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'm about 90% towards just calling in an electrician to have some 220 run and installing an electric heater (need more outlets in the garage anyway). Round up to 100%
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Jan 14, 2021 01:49
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:The cost for the actual hydrojetting was in line with what I expected to pay and they were fine to work with in general. Then hire them. If you're nervous, ask them if they have a couple of customers who have had similar work done that you can talk to. Hearing from other customers how they are satisfied/unsatisfied will be much more useful information than just a dollar number from another contractor you have no working relationship with. The best deal you can receive is being able to poop in your toilet successfully after the work is completed in an efficient, professional manner. Keep your eye on the prize.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:02
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Thats a good point. I'm fine paying slightly more than market for work, I just like knowing I'm not getting hosed for being lazy and not putting in a little more effort to get quotes. It's like the efficient market hypothesis. If a contractor has been around for a while and has good references, they probably aren't gouging people. Some portion of their previous clientele has already investigated their cost competitiveness and you just have to reap the rewards. Should you get more than one quote as a general rule? Ya, maybe if that's your only way of gauging the value of the work, but if you're having trouble finding that second quote you'll probably still be fine.
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Jan 25, 2021 20:02
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melon cat posted:Is it worthwhile to buy a FLIR camera for home projects? Asking because I have an old century home with plaster and lathe and I'm doing all sorts of work that requires finding the studs. Stud finders and rare earth magnets haven't been helpful. I know that FLIR cams help find wall studs in drywall but I'm wondering if it will do the same with plaster and lathe. If all you are trying to do is find studs, buy a couple cheap drill bits in the smallest size available at your hardware store and just drill holes to find them. Like, 1/16 inch or thinner. With a couple of test holes you'll be able to determine the lath and plaster thickness and then mark the drill bits. Anything that encounters resistance beyond that depth is a stud (or.... something you really don't want to drill in, so I guess that's one of the hazards here).
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Jan 30, 2021 20:48
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Blakkout posted:Will the white grout I want to apply next also stain the grey stone tile? Anytime you're concerned about materials interacting, prepare a sample. Mix up a little bit of the grout and apply it to an extra tile (I know you have at least one - the one with the blood on it). There's a tile setting poster, hopefully they will see your question. I'm blanking on their name. Here's a website that might address your question: https://floorelf.com/
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Feb 1, 2021 17:40
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Rhyno posted:Another weird issue. Both locations are the 'wrong' place to fix the issue, but may be the only options available to you. It is unlikely that either of your proposed solutions will cause a problem, it's just important to keep in mind that there may be a systemic issue that you're just papering over a bit. Air should never be able to move freely through a wall assembly, and should be stopped closest to the side it originates from. So if air is coming into the room, it should be stopped on the exterior of the assembly not the interior. Ok, that said, I would probably use caulk because it's going to be more flexible and inspectable over the long-term. Expanding foam may fill the cavity and provide some insulating value, but it has a tendency to crack off of adjacent surfaces over time which will re-open the air leak. Read the label on the caulk to ensure it will stick to the materials you are using it on, and it doesn't have any qualities you don't want (for example, some caulks are not paintable).
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Feb 3, 2021 19:29
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Rhyno posted:Okay, noted. I think "draft" might be the wrong word. I don't feel actual air moving, it's just noticeably cold down there. So I'm thinking there might just be an insulation gap as I don't feel the cold along the entire wall. Ah, got it. If there isn't a pressure differential (ie - a draft) caulking isn't going to help very much. It may stop a little bit of air movement, but it isn't going to stop the 'cold.' So in that case, foaming behind the baseboard (if there is a void there) is the right way to address it. Given that location is one of the most likely places moisture will sit if you have a moisture issue, spray foam is really the only recommended material to use because it bonds well with other materials (reducing the opportunity for condensation to form) and doesn't hold moisture/support mold growth as well as other materials. There are many reasons why a finished basement may be unusually cold at that location (no insulation under the slab for example, it's also probably far from where heat enters the room, and there is a sill plate there which will be colder than the surrounding insulation because it has a lower R value). If it isn't impacting general room comfort, it may not be worth the effort to address. Like, if you pull the baseboard off and there isn't anywhere to put insulation, now you've just created a trim repair project and haven't even addressed the original issue. So beware of creating a bigger problem than you start with.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:08
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I was doing laundry today and noticed the two pipes that are exhaust from my furnace aren't sealed at all. What would be best to seal them? Caulk. If the gap is too big, buy 'backer rod' to fill first. It's just flexible foam used to create a surface for the caulk to adhere to.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:14
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Just regular caulk? Nothing special? The location is protected from exterior conditions and isn't visible (doesn't need to be painted) so the vast majority of caulks will work. Like, if you have a partial tube of something kicking around you can probably use it. Polyurethane caulk is the typical recommendation for "construction" caulking, but the majority of caulks in the average hardware store will be fine. I'm sure there is at least one that won't though, so read the label to make sure you haven't picked up something weird.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:40
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Awesome, thanks! If you don't have a caulk gun they probably sell a couple caulks in squeezable tubes. I know DAP makes some.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:47
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melon cat posted:Looks like a poorly-installed roof soffit vent is allowing snow to blow in. I'm going to have my roof looked at in the spring, but in the meantime what can I do to: a) dry up this wet area b) Temporarily waterproof it for the next couple of months? I don't want this issue to cause rot issues. Did you just install the vent last season? If it's an old vent and there aren't any obvious issues already, just let it ride until you talk to a roofer. It could just be one weird windy storm combined with super light snow. Just keep an eye on it, maybe remove the snow that's already there if you're really dedicated.
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Feb 18, 2021 22:52
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SkyeAuroline posted:Requesting a moment of humoring a dumb question while I fight with my landlord to get poo poo fixed here. My heat in my apartment is not great, nor is it helped by imperfect insulation. All that said, I've tracked down another problem - a poorly mounted vent that's leaking a lot of the hot air my "furnace" (Apollo HydroHeat, it's basically a hot water radiator inside a forced air unit) generates into the mechanical closet instead of sending it up the vent. Which is probably why my "hot air vents" are putting out 72 F air to try and maintain 70 F, and why it's constantly running. From looking it over, it looks like one side isn't all the way down, and the air that leaks is coming from that corner and shooting straight out. I've never seen one of these before. There is a plumbing thread you might want to post this in: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131944 I'm guessing the problem has a couple of causes. One you haven't picked up on yet is water temperature - the temperature on the water heater should be set high so it can transfer as much heat as possible to the forced air system. This means that the domestic hot water service leg should have a tempering valve to bring the water temperature back down for safety. If that valve doesn't exist and you aren't scalding yourself constantly, this means the tank is set too low for heating purposes (but don't raise it without a tempering valve installed). So take a look and see if you can find a valve that feeds your domestic fixtures that is fed by both the water tank (hot) and municipal water (cold) to output tempered water. If that valve doesn't exist you've discovered another issue beyond the ducting.
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Feb 22, 2021 21:15
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melon cat posted:I need some help re-doing my very, very old home's bathroom ventilation setup. Right now it's a dumb mess and I want to slap whoever did it. Are you allowed to use the white flex? Yes, usually. Is it a good idea? No, usually. Swap in rigid metal with properly fastened and sealed seams or, given how tight that area is, metal flex would also be an upgrade. I never 'Y' two fans together, but I think it technically is not forbidden. Bathroom fan ventilation is not as strict as a lot of other ventilation, as there aren't huge safety concerns, just a concern about smelling farts in two bathrooms at the same time. The ducting should be insulated to help prevent condensation inside of the ducting. However, given that I don't see any insulation in your picture... that's not really a concern (the knee wall space you took a photo of will usually be at a high enough temperature to control condensation because there is no insulation to prevent heat migrating from adjacent rooms into the knee wall space). Get another roof cap installed would be smart if you're replacing the roof anyways. Might as well fix the issue, even if it's minor.
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Mar 3, 2021 21:57
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melon cat posted:I'll likely TRY to cram in insulated ducting but if it can't fit will go with the metal flex as you suggested. Thanks for the pointers. That area should already be vented, depending on who put their grubby hands on the house over the last century. Worst case, it's probably 'loose' enough being a century old that it 'self ventilates'. The places to look will be the gable ends (the exterior walls at the 'end' of the knee wall area) where you might see a vent, or if you don't have insulation on the 'sloped' area of the roof then air can move towards the roof ridge where there may be a ridge vent. It's hard to say without more pictures, and more pictures may still not show enough. If the knee wall area is hot and the interior of the house is not, then you're good - the knee wall area can be hot. Attics are always hot. What you want to prevent is the migration of that temperature into habitable spaces. quote:Follow-up question: is there a such thing as bathroom exhaust fans that terminate through their TOP side instead of through the side? Because it would make this job a whole lot easier. This came up on a project last year where we were trying to reuse an existing bathroom vent that had a vertically ducted fan. We could only find one or two models, they were legacy units put out by Broan/Nutone and are super basic. We ended up just leaving the existing fan and buying a replacement trim cover from Broan. Elviscat posted:All the good fans exhaust out the side, if you slap a rigid metal 90 on there pointing up, that should help. You probably don't have room to do anything else than what Elviscat is suggesting, but this will trigger the over-pressure sensor in a lot of the nicer bath fans. So if you end up replacing your bath fan with one that has adjustable speeds, it may think it has to ramp the speed up to compensate because the elbow installed right on the fan tricks it into thinking it has a back pressure issue. I made this mistake on the first house I built. It turns out there is a reason the Panasonic install guide says to only change direction after 2-4 feet of straight ducting.
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Mar 4, 2021 00:21
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melon cat posted:
It's only an issue with the units that have 'Smart Flow'. The rest of them will run as set, but of course if you can do two 45 degree elbows instead of one 90 degree (or something similar to smooth out the curve) it's a good idea. You should still look at the Panasonic Whisper line, just make sure you don't buy a 'Smart Flow' capable unit.
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Mar 4, 2021 01:03
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Who do you call to do a full replacement window including the framing? All the window companies I talk to just want to do inserts but the window I need to replace will probably need to be reframed. A carpenter? Ya, you need a carpenter. A lot of carpenters eventually just become general contractors, so that might be a better search term. Like, I only know... four carpentry companies that aren't also general contractors. Your window vendor might be able to recommend one.
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Mar 22, 2021 05:32
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actionjackson posted:to get an outlet behind your toilet so you can use all those fancy bidets/bidet seats, I was told there was two ways to do this: A lot depends on the model you are looking to install. You need to meet electrical code requirements as well as the manufacturer's install requirements. The draw might require a dedicated circuit (per code), or it might need a dedicated circuit because the manufacturer says it needs one and that takes precedence. Post the model if you have one picked out. I think every heated Kohler united requires a dedicated, but there are a few heated Toto units that do not. If there is no heater (it just squirts supply temperature water), a dedicated circuit is typically not required by the manufacturer or building code.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:12
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Bad Munki posted:Ah, yeah, I didn’t think of heating and draw. That makes sense. If it were just a general purpose outlet, that’d be a different story, I think. The inspectors I've worked with consider bidets 'fastened in place' utilization equipment which, under the codes I've been subject to, means that the bidet can be a maximum of 50% of the circuit rating assuming no other fastened in place utilization equipment on the same circuit. This is why some bidets with lower draws can be installed without a dedicated circuit.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:29
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actionjackson posted:does "dedicated circuit" mean it has it's own switch on the breaker box? Essentially. It is the "new wire from panel to receptacle" option you were talking about. quote:I don't have a specific one in mind, but here's a toto one The Toto C100 is one of the few heated bidet seats that does not require a dedicated circuit. You will need your electrician to confirm that your existing bathroom circuit can be used for this purpose after evaluating what other devices the existing bathroom circuit services. The Toto C100 specification indicates the following power rating: "AC 120 V 60 Hz, 406W". This wattage is below the 50% maximum for attached equipment. However, your bathroom circuit may service other equipment which will needed to be accounted for in the 50% calculation. There also may be other existing wiring issues that will preclude the use of the existing circuit.
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Apr 28, 2021 04:25
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eddiewalker posted:If you put this under your bottom plate, do you still need the pressure treated board? Sash! posted:Local requirements specify that finished basements must use a single pressure treated bottom plate, but that is literally all it says. Doesn't qualify if you use a sill gasket or not. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't think that a gasket is sufficient to avoid using PT lumber. Gaskets are more for preventing drafts, by my understanding, and while they can prevent some moisture penetration, that's not their primary purpose. The 2015 IRC covers this in section R317 which covers 'protection of wood and wood-based products against decay'. Generally, pressure/preservative treated wood is required when exposure to moisture is likely. In the case of a wall plate in contact with a basement slab, pressure/preservative treated wood is only required if an impervious moisture barrier is not used between the plate and the slab. Using pressure/preservative treated plates is easy and avoids a conversation with the inspector, so that's what a lot of builders do. In the case of 'sill seal' materials (such as the home depot link) - i personally don't think that's an impervious moisture barrier. The IRC unfortunately doesn't define impervious moisture barrier, but I believe it should be a class one vapor retarder and sill seal depending on what you look at might be a class one or it might be a class two. However, in real world applications with anchor bolts sticking through it I just don't think it will really work as a class one because it doesn't self-seal around penetrations. That said, your inspector might pass it. If you want to avoid pressure/preservative treated plates I would use an EPDM gasket, but they aren't something you will find at home depot: http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html
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May 18, 2021 18:58
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H110Hawk posted:Call them immediately and ask for help. Time is of the essence in mitigating the damage caused by the water. If no one picks up at the insurance claims line then call servpro or another mitigation company and tell them your insurance carrier and ask for help. They need to start today. Ya, this is good advice. There are one or two insurance related people on SA, hopefully one will pop into this thread soon. Getting the water out ASAP is important. Items that can't be saved go into a dumpster (drywall, insulation, etc.), everything else needs air flow. While running a consumer dehumidifier and such can't hurt if your mom has one, professional equipment is the only solution that will get the moisture out of the house before it becomes an unsolvable issue.
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May 22, 2021 21:19
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Danhenge posted:Is there something about this plan that I don't know which makes it a terrible idea? Is the sliding glass door frame structurally important in a way I've missed? Barring something completely unpredictable, you are correct. Go for it.
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May 24, 2021 02:45
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couldcareless posted:Wife bought a ceiling fixture online for me to replace a boob light with. This is the light in question I guessed the vendor before I clicked the link. Unless that company has strikingly modified their product line-up, the electricians I work with will not install those fixtures due to the build quality. I have had two client's insist on ordering them and both times they ended up in the dumpster. As of a year ago they ship directly from China and we never had any luck getting someone on the phone (I think they used to have a Hong Kong number somewhere?) for a refund/return.
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May 30, 2021 21:12
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Stack Machine posted:I'm mostly using the ridge board because it seemed easy for amateur construction, i.e. no need for fasteners other than nails. The original shed on this slab had some collar ties high up just nailed in, but I don't know anything about the shear strength of nails so I wanted the ridge board too. There may not be a structural issue here, maybe just a terminology issue. Right now I don't see any 'rafter ties' or 'collar ties' which in a building this small will serve similar purposes (prevent spreading and prevent uplift - in a larger roof it's a bit more involved). You could install 'joists' that serve as 'rafter ties' if you fasten them to the roof structure and not the wall structure. Maybe they are already installed (you write as if they are), but I don't see them. Here's a good illustration of these terms: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021240018.pdf
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Jun 14, 2021 16:47
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