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hooah posted:No, that was after a few passes with my finger and several pieces of paper towel. I told you I'm poo poo at caulking! Best strategy I've used lately for shitcaulkers like us - painters tape. Put in painters tape at the top and bottom or sides of the gap, spread the caulk, and pull the tape immediately. I've had to use that a lot lately on backer-rodded giant gaps, but it also works well for poo poo finishers like us on small gaps. Might've been a pain in the rear end adhering the tape in a circle, but makes for an easier correction for the inevitable use of too much caulk (my usual problem).
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Jul 17, 2023 00:55
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 03:53 |
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Regarding condensate pump cleaning, here's a video on that pump, which appears to be the standard Little Giant: https://youtu.be/4EhozlhAQVU?si=KbYrcPfA5Xy7bXBx The one thing to mention - if you're going to clean out the line, clean out the pump too. Take it out, pop off the top, and clean the basin, and the bottom parts of the pump. There is an absolute ton of crud hanging to the bottom of the pump portion in most cases, which fucks with the float and eventually gets pushed into that line.
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Sep 27, 2023 15:04
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tuyop posted:For mains power I use one of those little live wire detecting pens. Also doubles as a gcfi tester on the back. Pretty much all I want to know about the power lines in my house is whether they’re safe to touch at the moment. What would the multimeter be for in this case? To actually post content: since the topic is on fuses, you can check if fuses still work by using the multimeter: https://youtu.be/1iHRESNMFAg?si=h6ODRnrfVcZV6RIi There may also be cases like stuff posted earlier where you might want to use a multimeter to figure out the voltage you're getting and what might appear to be a functioning receptacle that's loving up in some way. Or checking your grounding by testing a hot wire to a supposedly-grounded metal box in the wall. Or even testing household batteries to see how much juice is left in them. facialimpediment fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Oct 19, 2023 |
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Oct 19, 2023 15:09
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Flipperwaldt posted:Not sure where to go from here, or if there are logical steps that were skipped. If some specialist needs to come, I'm not even sure what kind of guy we need. On the specialist side, in the northeast USA, that kind of thing is handled by "foundation experts" and "basement waterproofers". This sounds like a situation where they probably need to be consulted. The general idea and order of progression appears to be roughly called out here: https://www.therealsealllc.com/blog/how-to-stop-water-from-coming-up-through-the-basement-floor/ It doesn't sound like a clearwater sewer backup from the heavy rain, since it doesn't sound like it's coming from a defined pipe. It also doesn't sound like this is a problem that could be solved with gutters / gutter extensions. It also doesn't sound like this is just a shitload of within-basement condensation. So, this sounds foundational, so it's time for a Foundation Guy to come out and see what they can see. Might need a drain tile / sump pump / something installed. Edit: Basically, agreeing with TMA.
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Dec 14, 2023 01:25
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Arrath posted:Talk to me about recaulking around a tub or shower pan: any tips tricks or pitfalls? What cleaning or prep do I need to do after scraping out the old gunk? I have the video just for you! https://youtu.be/AcgErpZ_D0c?si=pggHaMFrOBKzt4eO Since I am absolute poo poo at making clean caulk lines, the painter's tape trick has helped me several times. Lots of different opinions on cleaners to spray/put down before recaulking.
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Jan 24, 2024 20:37
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012424_2 posted:Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses underneath that vinyl siding was painted brick Motronic posted:If low tack tape is taking the finish off of a tub it's got to be some sort of very specific situation........ My post is assuming things can handle painters tape, applied for an hour or so. If your caulk application is different from that you've got a whole other set of issues going on that are not likely to be solved by caulk. Yeah in most of my caulking projects, the tape is down for ~15-20 minutes and not adhered super-tight. It's not like painting projects where the tape stays while poo poo dries - for caulking, tape gets pulled as soon as the caulk is smoothed down. I *think* the no-tape alternative for a novice would be applying "too little" caulk, smoothing, then potentially adding more and smoothing if it wasn't enough coverage for the gap. I've never made that look very good though, but again, I suck at it!
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Jan 25, 2024 01:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm guessing I need to just replace a part, but which part? The fill valve on the left, replace the whole thing, it's like $20. Here's the video on how to do it, it's quite easy as long as your shutoff valve is functional: https://youtu.be/H5G4OeIDXMk?si=T9mhZ74yN05ziD9V Your call on the type to replace it, there are generally three. One is the old school ball-and-pipe version at the start of the video, one is your current type (and the one in the video), and one is the Korky version with an internal float. Use whatever!
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Feb 24, 2024 20:48
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Also a good reference: https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector Generally one per floor, ideally near sources that could potentially output CO as mentioned. If you have to be cheap, near where you're sleeping.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:29
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A MIRACLE posted:no, in the bowl. it fills up to a normal level and then slowly disappears How slow? Over minutes, hours, half the day, full day? And has the toilet bowl always drained itself like that, or is it a recent development?
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Mar 26, 2024 02:25
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Here is why we're asking you those questions: https://youtu.be/Y2o8upCxcqA?si=5MyUJ_dTdZZOW-6Q
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Mar 26, 2024 03:14
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One of the main keys, as has been mentioned, is to get duplicates of a lot of that poo poo. I personally have cheapish safety glasses absolutely loving everywhere (garage, first floor with the basic tools, basement with the power stuff) so you're never tempted to just do the work. Also, get poo poo that's comfortable. Thick gloves for sharp work and collecting yard waste / spiky poo poo in the lawn, thinner gloves for all the other basic dirty work and chemical stuff.
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May 1, 2024 13:53
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So my mother's day project this year is cleaning all this white/grey poo poo off this brick exterior: edit: snip 1) Am I correct in the assumption that this is basically all just years of brick efflorescence? 2) What's the best chemical to remove all this stuff? There's no chemical-sensitive vegetation in the area. 3) What's the proper cleaning method? Does it need to be the pain in the rear end bucket-and-brush method, or a tank sprayer with hose follow-up, or a pressure washer? facialimpediment fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 9, 2024 |
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May 5, 2024 20:35
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 03:53 |
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PRADA SLUT posted:I need to re-caulk a bathroom, but I've never caulked anything in my life. It doesn't seem particularly hard and I want to give it a shot myself. Uthor posted:I need to redo the caulk around my bathtub. I'm guessing step #1 is removing the old stuff? Here's a newbie This Old House on the bathtub situation that's equally applicable for any first-time caulker doing anything indoors that has to look good. https://youtu.be/AcgErpZ_D0c?si=W4A0MJPzxYA8mAkF The painters tape thing isn't really needed for outdoor stuff, but I use it all the time to make things cleaner, as I suck at it.
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May 13, 2024 14:24
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