|
Is it just me or does the face of that door look warped?
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2020 22:40
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 14:53 |
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Ask them to cut it as a big square or whatever. Buy a box of 10'x100' 3mil plastic and cut a strip, then masking tape it to the wall. Use scissors not a knife. Unless you already have it those rolls are expensive. Get masking or painters tape and tape a trash bag over the hole instead.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:A corner of a brick broke off of one of my planters: My gut told me epoxy could be good for this and seems like masonry epoxy exists so probably that? I don't have direct experience though, just used epoxy on ceramic flower pots before. edit: given the position and gravity you'd probably want some clamps to hold the piece in place while things set in place
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2020 01:59
|
|
|
That looks similar to the plug they didn't fully take out of my shower drain when they installed it all. If that's the case just ripping it out with pilers would be correct. However don't trust me, I would ask in the plumbing thread unless someone comes along here that's sure.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2020 21:38
|
|
|
dangling pointer posted:I tore out the crumbling concrete steps on my porch and plan on replacing them with wood ones. To me 9" seems like a hefty rise as well that's probably fine for taller people that are without physical limitations but I think you really want 3 steps here.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2020 20:28
|
|
|
dangling pointer posted:Yeah, most things I’ve read suggest 7.5 inches, 1.5” doesn’t seem too much more but I have no idea what makes steps not a death trap. Going with 3 steps is probably the best option, just wanted an outside opinion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1vqQi5Tl70 Reminded me of this video so here thread have this.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2020 21:06
|
|
|
For your gap at the top I think you would just cut the tiles in half-ish (measure don't listen to me) and continue with your pattern as before. Account for the grout gap when you measure after laying the preceeding rows. Probably best to rent a tile saw for the work but I'm no expert so hopefully some others can chime in.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2020 04:23
|
|
|
Falcon2001 posted:A year or so ago my roofers hosed up my gutters and I'm preparing to fix them, because the gutters themselves are pretty nice metal ones. I'll admit the slight bit of space between the gutter and your roof at the bottom doesn't really make sense to me as to why the water is pissing over the top that much unless the slope got hosed up and/or there is a blockage in the downspout or gutter run. edit: quoted
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2020 01:46
|
|
<-- closeup of one of the stripped screws
<-- What happens now because of the bent.
|
I have a gas fireplace in a just out of warranty (of course) new home. We're attempting to turn it on for this second winter and it's not firing up. It doesn't have a pilot light, instead it's electric ignition. We have gas for our stovetop, water heater and furnace and that all works so I don't think it's a gas issue but rather an ignition issue. When we press the switch on the wall the little ignition spark doesn't do anything. Do ya'll have any troubleshooting advice? I have a non-contact tester as well as a multimeter but don't have any idea where I'd use them here. It's a Napoleon Ascent 36 - Imgur Album Semi-related, once I get this working again, is there an approved method to seal off the hole where the gas line comes in? It lets a small bit of cold air into our house from the crawlspace which ideally I'd like to insulate that spot but I can imagine a lot of products not being suitable for the heat of the fire? 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2020 03:03
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:There are high-temperature silicone caulks for sealing. I'll check into those products. Thanks. My wife just hit the switch and it worked, the fire is on. Sooooo seems like it's a sometimes fault/issue which is I'm sure harder to troubleshoot just like anything else.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2020 05:17
|
|
|
TacoHavoc posted:I had a similar gas fireplace problem. The wall switch itself went bad. The low current leads to poor contact cleaning in the switch and they can start making intermittent contact relatively quickly. You can verify this by jumping the terminals directly on the fireplace, or pulling the switch and jumping it out to test. If the wall switch is bad is there a recommended replacement brand? I'll see about checking this if/when it happens again.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2020 19:59
|
|
|
A bonus with following the ADA (width not just slope and also the turns) is that a stretcher should be able to maneuver on it which is safer than alternate methods if someone was to need ambulance transport from a house with a ramp.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2020 00:35
|
|
|
TimWinter posted:As good a place as any to ask- I'd like to add some sound reduction to my office, as I can't have meetings (read: play video games) late without waking the kids or keeping the wife up. I'm looking at some sound proof paneling, but all of the materials I can find online are telling me about how to insulate a room designed to play or record music, not how to make a very quite speaking / mechanical keyboard room. I don't know what low mids are or how important they matter for speaking voices. Yeah just get this sound machine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HD0ELFA If you share walls with any sleeping rooms put the thickest panels possible with no gaps on that wall. You probably need to hang a curtain over your door too and get a cute draft stopping snake or whatever to block the bottom gap of the door. Consider speaking less and quieter and perhaps different keyboard or keycaps that aren't as loud.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2020 18:23
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:You're totally hosed and probably need to replace a substantial amount of your subflooring and basement ceiling. Water damage is really bad. If I read the post right the floor joists are exposed and they pulled insulation out. Maybe they are lucky and rain only gets in during heavy rain with wind blowing it into that crack and the water damage isn't structural. Take pics OP, not every house should be set on fire 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2020 01:21
|
|
|
Christoph posted:Thanks! Turns out it has like 3 other annoying problems so it's out. I don't know the fix/guide for a permanent fix, this is the cheap part I bought to stop the leak at the source (the spigot/valve) when I was in between washing machines (both worked no problem with the leaky spigot): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-3-4-in-Threaded-Hose-Caps-2-Pack-27902/100659301 The correct fix is probably replacing the spigot with a new one but with the old rear end looking age right there you might not be able to unscrew it and that's when the fun and multiple pipes being replaced starts.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2021 06:44
|
|
|
I always start my drywall anchor pilot holes with a small enough bit that I can use a regular wood screw. That way if I screw up on stud location I can easily swap instead of having a giant anchor hole in the drywall. Has the dual benefit of keeping your drywall anchor centered where you want it for level/positioning purposes.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2021 04:54
|
|
|
Any goons recs on a nylon(?) brush to chuck into a power drill to clean shower tile/grout lines? And also what cleaning liquid to use, just tilex?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2021 01:31
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I've had good luck with a hydrogen peroxide based cleaner and just letting it sit. That was on the floor though. I think you can also do the same with a bleach gel and just trace out the lines. TurdBurgles posted:If you go the bleach route, be very careful. I tried to clean our shower grout and wasn't paying attention and the bleach ran. Now we have bleached streaks on the tile and it looks worse.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2021 23:43
|
|
|
Have you tried PB Blaster or similar (not WD40)? I wonder if a socket could fit on it and then some appropriate extenders for the space, might let you get better torque on it without slippage.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2021 09:31
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Is there a solar thread? I didn't see one. https://www.google.com/get/sunroof I only know what I've read about on these here forums but generally if you don't have government subsidies and you can't sell back to your utility for a good rate it won't be worth it. As for the 2 layers of shingles I think roofers rip off when it gets to 3 layers normally but totally guessing, for a solar install you'll want an entire fresh roof put on (rip off old layers, install new).
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2021 08:00
|
|
|
Xenix posted:On the topic of lighting, I have 10 sconces that I thought had LEDs in them. One burned out and it turns out they were 150w halogens (cue the realization they are likely the cause of our recent higher electrical bills). I found LED replacements, but as soon as I remove the last halogen in each of the 2 circuits, the LEDs all turn on at a very low intensity. I now have 1 halogen in each circuit to keep this from happening. The LED packaging had some broken english on it about needing LED as opposed to incandescent dimmers. Is that correct? Do I need to swap out my dimmers to finish my light bulb replacement? Yes.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2021 06:18
|
|
|
Synnr posted:I'm moving soon and after a visit with my dog to introduce him to the currently resident dog, it's come to my attention the steps are some combination of steep and slippery that he can't handle. I have only just used this product for a month on LVT flooring, not hardwood, but 3M has Rug Anchors that I've used to stop one of my dogs from pushing up the corner of a rug every 10 minutes. Maybe you use those, you'd probably need 2 per step (and a small piece of rug on each step of course), so not the cheapest solution depending on how many steps you have to make dog friendly.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2021 06:32
|
|
|
Angles and lengths (and I suppose also materials used to construct the vent tubes) matter for determining if the exhaust fans can push the air actually out of your house. I don't know enough to tell you exactly here but part of figuring this out will be what's the total length from each fan to the exhaust point on your roof? At the very least if those white tubes are ok to use you could seemingly connect them much closer to the roof hole and save a lot of length which should help with the exhaust efficiency.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2021 21:43
|
|
|
I would probably just pay a windowscreen person to put up screens for you. It would involve them screwing some thin sheet metal type channels to the exterior of your window frames that the mesh screens would go in (and you could take them out for winter). Unless your home is like historically protected or whatever in which case I dunno.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2021 20:52
|
|
|
So I haven't gotten around to doing it yet but this spring (maybe?) I'm going to get our external grill running on natural gas as we have the hookup already in place. My question is the hookup pipe on the exterior has surface rust. Is that rust ok to not worry about or should I remove the rust and paint the metal with some exterior spray paint to protect it? If I should remove the rust and paint, what products do ya'll recommend?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2021 18:57
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:It'll last a long time like that, but properly protecting it from the elements is always good, I'd hit it with a wire brush to get the chunks off then use some rustoleum that advertises itself as bonding to rust. Excellent that sounds like just the amount of effort that I'm down for. Thanks.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2021 00:14
|
|
|
My first Wera purchase was a Kraftform Kompakt 25 and it has an array of phillips and flat bits, the flats are hollow ground. So not a laser tip set but better for say not chipping the paint on wall plate screws. For OPs use case I'd recommend considering that if you do go Wera.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2021 03:19
|
|
|
 Went to clean the shower we never really use in preparation of guests arriving and discovered this crack in the wall of the shower. As far as I know it's a fiberglass unit. The crack is about 1/2-3/4" long. It almost looks like some sort of fastener behind the wall is a bit proud of the surface and maybe someone leaning on the wall caused the crack to happen. Anyway does this guide seem like the right repair approach? If not, suggested methods and products? edit: corrected link - https://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-cracked-fiberglass-shower-stall-102343.html tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jul 6, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2021 01:21
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:These are cleaning directions. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-cracked-fiberglass-shower-stall-102343.html Haha damnit I don't know how that happened, this is what I was trying to link.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2021 02:48
|
|
|
pointsofdata posted:Is there some special method of loosening these things? I can't for the life of me unfasten the previous owners toilet seat, it's at a very awkward angle and either I'm doing it wrong or it's very tight. what does the top-side look like? maybe you just didn't mention it but you typically have to hold one end while turning the other to have a toilet seat loosen instead of just spinning in place, given your pic it's probably easiest to hold the bottom metal bar piece with your hand or pliers and turn whatever is on top with the appropriate tool (probably a large phillips or a wrench/socket up top).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2021 20:34
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:The old kitchen chairs and table the previous owner left behind are sturdy and good. And not precious; the thick oak table top has woodgrain Formica laid into it that looks original. I want to clean the old finish and re-wax. I also need to replace 13 half-inch plugs that are in the sides of the headrests. I'm not a woodpecker. (Typo there, and I am keeping it.) To cut dowels into plugs, what kind of saw do I want? Jigsaw? Coping saw? Other? Do you currently own any saws? Jigsaw will be annoying IMO, coping saw would work, I've used a circular saw before. I would plan to sand the plugs smooth after insertion too.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2021 02:04
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I own no saws; I'm starting from scratch. And I know so little I thought a jigsaw was hand-operated, so. I was planning on using a handsaw, but I didn't know which type I wanted. The original plugs are actually slightly rounded, giving a button effect. I don't know what sort of search term to use to find those; what are they called? I'm in a very rural area, and the local hardware store may or may not have them. Well I tried some googling and can't seem to find any pre-made like this. Here is a link I found on how to make them yourself (link). The woodworking thread here might yield you a better answer about either where to buy these pre-made or better advice on how to make these yourself.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2021 18:26
|
|
|
timp posted::snip: Too add more words of my own on top of Hawk's reply: You probably need some high speed SD cards to use in whatever (video)cameras you end up purchasing, didn't see those on your list (don't buy from amazon, SD cards are frequently faked, you want real high speed ones from B&H photo or similar). That HP Pavilion computer, does it come with a color accurate monitor? You'll want a good monitor to edit the footage on so you're not creating something that looks like dogshit on anything except your bespoke but bad monitor. For your stuff you probably don't need a super high end color calibration setup for your monitor, I just bought a Dell monitor that comes calibrated from the factory (it's no longer available but I'm sure they have a new model now that's the same type of thing), it's been great for over 3 years now for my video editing work.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 12, 2021 06:51
|
|
|
C-Euro posted:My house was in the path of Hurricane Ida's remnants in the Northeast US. We dodged the really bad stuff but today I noticed a little part of our ground-floor ceiling where I can only imagine some water leaked in; the paint and wood behind it are sagging and it feels damp to the touch as if water pooled in the crawlspace behind it. Obviously I need to get a roofer in here to ID and fix the leak on the roof, but would a roofer also be the correct contractor to look at this dampened part of the ceiling and fix it, or is that a job for a different type of contractor? A roofer might also do ceiling drywall but I sorta doubt it. Any general home contractor/handyman should be able to handle ripping out the wet drywall and any insulation, drying out the space, and then replacing and repainting. If you have decent homeowners insurance with a low-ish deductible you may find it's worth it to claim the damages. There's a slight chance the wood behind the drywall is wet beyond repair but if it's really just water from this recent storm it can probably be dried out just fine.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2021 06:01
|
|
|
The Midniter posted:I need to replace a board on the deck of the house I just bought before we pressure wash and stain it. Here’s a poor out-of-focus pic: I see lots of decks built with 2*4 pressure treated lumber. That sizing is nominal so if you have a tape measure (buy one) it would be like 1.5" x 3.5" roughly, and then just measure the length to see how long a board you need to replace. If you measure up a different size, then buy that or post here again for help. If you don't own a saw of some sort you can probably have the Lowes/home depot place cut your lumber to size if needed. Square drive is I think, Robertson? Any drill bit set should be able to handle taking those screws out so you can put a new board in. Just buy like 3" exterior rated screws with torx drive or Robertson doesn't really matter just no Phillips head trash.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2021 23:18
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Take a picture of the joint and post it, it could be glued in or there could even be some tack nails diagonally in there or some other kind of fastener. Maybe rub a magnet around to see if it grabs on anything metal so you know before you start. This is a good idea. Might I also submit that this might be a great reason to purchase an oscillating multi tool, earmuffs and safety glasses.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2021 03:04
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:My car's (2003 Honda Civic) roof is leaking, and water's getting into the cabin via the rear view mirror mount. What should I do about this? I would recommend the AI Stupid Question thread. Maybe your windshield seal is failing above the mirror mount. Or maybe it's actually a hole in your roof that's leaking into the mount (rust hole?). So depending on where it's actually coming from. Pictures could help.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2021 02:01
|
|
|
We've got sparks coming from this (pictured) metal panel on our microwave, it's a built-in above our oven. Model # WMC30516HZ 0 Manufactured Jan, 2019 I am kind of assuming that microwaves aren't repairable items (or rather not worth repairing?), but figure you good people will know more. If I do need to repair it will it be similar to an electrical outlet, i.e. shut off power at the breaker box, remove surrounding cover via pulling or whatever, unplug or unwire old microwave and put in new one that I assume must be the same dimensions.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2021 19:18
|
|
|
No plugs in the surrounding cabinets that I can find. I took off the faceplate that surrounded the microwave spot and still have more to take apart to move the microwave, still can't see a plug or cord but it's dinnertime now and I gotta rustle up some grub (not microwave meals).
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2021 02:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 14:53 |
|
|
Rakeris posted:In our house the PO (or whomever the gently caress) hide the plug behind the microwave, so had to take it off to get to the plug...not ideal. It wasn't even in a workbox...just an outlet inside a hole in the drywall. So it could be almost flush with the wall. Yeah it ended up being a plug behind which is annoying but at least mine was a proper outlet I guess. I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow but I'm sure I'll get told to pound sand and then I'll start sourcing for a new one to fit the space.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2021 03:39
|
|
