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actionjackson posted:it looks like blum does have a hinge that allows you to adjust on the third dimension (closer to and further away from the cabinet frame), but it's in their clip-top series which is for frameless cabinets. depth adjustment in this image Blum does make a small, face-frame, overlay hinge with all three adjustments. I used them recently and they have a built in soft closer in the hinge but I don't know the model/part number. HDL limited or some other big online Blum distributor should have a catalog where you can find them.
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Oct 19, 2020 04:25
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Bioshuffle posted:What's the best way to remove IKEA warning stickers from the unfinished wooden panel? I looked up if it's safe to use Goo Gone, but it says it's not safe for unfinished wood. Can I just get sand paper and whittle it down? I just don't want a gigantic ugly sticker every time I open the drawers. Even my tried and true hair dryer trick seems to be sluggish at best. Naphtha, acetone, or lacquer thinner should do it and should leave any residue on the wood, especially if you lightly sand it afterwards. E: acetone and lacquer thinner will definitely gently caress up any finish it gets on, so I would try naphtha first. It’s in the paint department at Lowe’s or wherever as ‘VM & P naphtha’
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Oct 23, 2020 23:45
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There are shock absorbers for fall protection harnesses. IIRC they work by being stitched together with thread that breaks at a certain point and slows you down as you fall 5 more feet or something. I'm not sure what the best keyword would be, and I think they would be too heavy duty for your application. Once you get something off the ground, attaching a safety cable from the object to a beam or w/e that is short enough to keep it from hitting the ground would work?
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Nov 3, 2020 20:07
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The Spookmaster posted:I just picked up this guy at an estate sale for super cheap. I'm going to build new drawers for it but I'm trying to figure out the best way to strip the rust. I've used evapo-rust on old tools before but that's just letting them soak in a bucket of it. I know they have a gel version but the reviews on it seem iffy. Any suggestions? Maybe it is just the photo, but the greenish/white stuff makes me think it is galvanized or some kind of copper/brass/bronze situation? You might ask in the metalworking thread they know all kinds of weird stuff.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:22
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> Start Digging DIY&H's first mystery CYOA thread?
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Nov 9, 2020 15:31
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I need to replace some exterior 1x4 trim/fascia. Any thoughts on KDAT pine vs Western red cedar? Is one better for paintholding/durability? Price is fairly comparable on both. When/if I redo it all I may go with a composite/PVC, but for the patching I am doing now, I'd like to stick with wood so I can match the existing profile details.
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Nov 19, 2020 00:50
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Bioshuffle posted:I have a lawn that is a mix of Bermuda and St. Augustine, and different areas of the lawn are dominated by different grasses. Do I just need to pick one or the other and encourage growth that way? They are probably going to mix. My yard is a mix of centipede, bermuda, st. augustine and weeds and it's fine. The st. augustine probably prefers the shadier, wetter areas and the bermuda will likely do better in the sunnier parts. As long as it is all green, who cares? St. Augustine is very sensitive to herbicides than most grasses, so you have to be careful with which weedkillers you use to make sure you don't also damage the st. augustine.
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Nov 28, 2020 17:31
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Chainclaw posted:Gloves won't work because I'm making Warhammer objective markers. I don't really want to force me and my opponent to find some gloves to play Warhammer. Big Dick Cheney posted:Can you get a generator that runs on your home natural gas connection? Is that a bad idea, since if your electricity is gone due to a natural disaster, natural gas might be gone too? Around here everyone with a permanently installed standby generator runs it on their normal natural gas. The only time in my parent's memory the gas has gone out was the worst hurricane in living memory 40-50 yrs ago, and that was because the gas company pre-emptively turned the gas off before the storm in case uprooted trees damaged the gas lines. They pretty quickly turned it back on when it became apparent there wasn't major damage to the gas lines.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:43
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How did you do the cool retro aluminum edge banding?
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Jan 18, 2021 17:08
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LLSix posted:I have an odd question, but I figure if anyone knows the answer, it'll be one of you goons. Are there good shows or youtube channels for DIY/gardening/outdoor survival? 'This Old House 'The Victory Garden' 'P. Allen Smith's Garden home' or w/e it's called 'The Woodwright's shop' 'New Yankee Workshop' 'Hometime'
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Feb 3, 2021 19:16
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm mainly an office shlub, but need work boots if I go to a job site. I really like my red wings 2406 and 2 pairs have lasted me a decade. https://www.redwingshoes.com/work/mens/boots/SuperSole-2.0-02406.html?cgid=mens-work-boots Both pairs still exist-the first pair has been resoled twice and now they’re my painting boots. I think there is a soft toe version too. I think they look decent-just kind of a plain work boot that doesn’t stand out and looks okay for office work too. They’re the most comfortable shoes I own, but more fitted insoles definitely help. I don’t really like the lighter leather of timberlands and something about Danners have always looked goofy to me, but that’s entirely personal.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:33
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I'm exploring the idea of covering my old knockdown/textured plaster walls with 1/4" drywall. The walls are painted of course-I presume that means skim coating over the texture isn't really an option, and even if it was, it would keep cracking in all the same places, right? Is the process basically the same as new work drywall? Would I just screw into studs as normal, or is there an adhesive I would use instead of/in addition to that? Mud over the texture so the new drywall doesn't sound hollow or something? I think my studs are 16" OC, but small chance they are 24"OC if that matters. The plaster is over rock lath not wood lath, and I have yet to find a studfinder that can find a stud through that. I would be doing the ceilings too, and also probably redoing most of the trim as well. Is the price of drywall currently nuts like most building materials or is $10-12/sheet pretty normal?
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Feb 21, 2021 20:10
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movax posted:Dumb question with likely obvious answers... my power bill has been spiking lately and I don't think I've ever heard my fridge compressor ever actually click off (or least something is always running). It is a Sub-Zero 361 (model 361FD) which, judging from its production timeline, is original to the house (1984). A lot of Sub-Zero’s are a non-standard size and can be tricky to replace if it’s built into cabinets or something. Maybe they only make countertop depth ones and not full depth? I can’t remember the details, but it’s a problem a client ran into once, so you might want to check the specs before you assume a replacement will be an easy drop in.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:35
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alnilam posted:See this row of cabinets? Can't say I have any great ideas for the backsplash-maybe just cover it all with An Art? Depending on what's behind the cabinets/how the tile was done it may be a little tricky to patch the tile.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:49
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alnilam posted:A really great and nice solo contractor just did a few grand of work at our new house and was awesome. Is it customary to tip a contractor? I have no idea. Bread/beer/wine etc is great too and makes you stand out as a good client imo. Extra money maybe feels like ‘you don’t know how to price your own work,’ but also I don’t think anyone would complain. Don’t be surprised if they magically get more expensive next time.
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Mar 8, 2021 22:05
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erosion posted:help 
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Mar 10, 2021 03:38
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I don't know about water etc. but planting a tree out there to shade the room/window will sure help too.
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Mar 11, 2021 03:50
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spacetoaster posted:Thanks for the information. I can actually do the more difficult (but more durable) stuff because it's brand new and tools/machines won't be installed for at least 3 more weeks. It's just a big empty space until then.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:18
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I'm really curious about what a foam lance is and why it involves pressurized piping  To echo everyone else though, pipe sizes are weird and your best bet is to wander around the plumbing aisle at a hardware store if that is an option.
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Mar 31, 2021 19:30
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I have a lamp that is behaving strangely. It will only stay illuminated if the bulb is unscrewed juuuust the right amount and at just the right angle. Sometimes just bumping the table its on will make it turn off. It's twin started doing this at some point too, but seems to be working okay now? Is there something I need to clean in the socket or a wire loose somewhere? It looks like very standard lamp hardware and uses standard base pointy bulbs. I put a new bulb in and that made no difference.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:15
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alnilam posted:I am building a stool for my toddler and i was planning to stain it but she wants it purple and i realize now i have never painted furniture. What kinda paint do you use on furniture? If it’s a step stool you might want to add some sand or some other grippy additive on the top as glossy enamels can be quite slippery.
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Apr 5, 2021 15:59
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FogHelmut posted:Is there a place that does? Sherwin Williams/Benjamin Moore/any real paint store
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Apr 11, 2021 19:07
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Here is the AI small engine repair thread which I just added to the OP, for anyone who might be looking: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888147
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Apr 12, 2021 23:45
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have an electric corded Worx chainsaw that has a bar oil tank. anywhere i put this thing has a small amount of oil seepage under it from the open part where the saw dust comes out. Am I missing an obvious chainsaw thing I should be doing to prevent this? I would assume bar oil is a universal thing so how do other chainsaws deal with this? The manual didn't seem to talk about it. Should I just shove a paper towel up there after every time I use it? At least in my experience they all just slowly leak bar and chain oil all the time. I've never taken one apart to see how the oie gets to the bar/chain, but I don't think there's a valve that closes when the saw is off or anything.
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Apr 13, 2021 23:50
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Hutla posted:I have a kitchen table that's probably cheap rubber wood or something that the finish has gone soft and sticky on. Eventually I'll replace it, but until then, what is the best way to remove the current finish and what kind of paint should I use to redo it. Try the things PainterofCrap suggested first, but if the finish has gone sticky, the finish is probably beyond repair and needs to be stripped. Unfortunately that's a huge mess that needs good ventilation and I would not recommend trying to do it indoors. If you can get it cleaned up to non-sticky, you can scuff sand/rough up/degloss the current finish and paint over it with whatever. Some flavor of enamel usually does best on furniture imo.
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Apr 22, 2021 01:16
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NotNut posted:How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors? It’s an ANSI/OSHA thing so it is definitely regulated, but it’s not as simple as noise level-NRR. Someone good at science can probably explain better, but decibels are not a linear scale so the jump between 100db and 110db is much bigger/louder than the jump between 75db and 85db. This article seems good? https://www.coopersafety.com/earplugs-noise-reduction
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May 1, 2021 21:32
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neogeo0823 posted:What the hell is the name of the fastener used in this pic? I understand it's a smooth shaft with a flat, low profile head, held in place with an external retaining ring, but for the life of me, I cannot find a proper name for the actual fastener when I google for it. The only results I can seem to dredge up imply that apparently every single one of these things is somehow custom engineered for its own specific purpose, but there's no way that can be true, right?
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May 9, 2021 18:37
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Sash! posted:I know literally nothing about pressure treated lumber. I have no idea if your application counts as ground contact or not though. Usually at real lumberyard will have a bigger selection of GC rated PT lumber than a big box.
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May 18, 2021 19:09
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Crankit posted:Sometimes I idly wonder what the cheapest form of livable building is, is it a timber A-frame, a geodesic dome, one of those concrete over inflatable form buildings? Curious about it from the material rather than labour cost. Probably cob or rammed earth of some sort, but it depends a lot on what building materials are available locally as transport is a big part of the cost for low value-high bulk stuff
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May 20, 2021 18:25
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Hyrax Attack! posted:We have floor vents that at the moment are only covered by basic metal grills that are easy to drop little objects through. From Googling the issue looks like getting some mesh screen might be a good solution, then to cut to size and attach with velcro tape. I wanted to check if that sounded like a good idea and wouldn't impede heat airflow. Dropping things into the floor air vents was an important part of my childhood and I beg you to reconsider.
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May 21, 2021 18:11
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Cyrano4747 posted:I’ve got a bathroom door that is just hellaciously ugly from a combination of old and chipped paint. Worse, it’s only like that on one side because some chucklefuck only painted half of it at some point in the past. At minimum you need to scrape any loose paint off, and clean it well with TSP or some other good cleaner/degreaser. For a little more work and a much better paint job, sand everything lightly with 150 or 220 to remove the gloss and give the new paint a little better bite. Then prime, 2 coats of paint, etc. If the current paint is coming off in big chunks, your new paint job is gonna be bumpy unless you strip/sand all the old paint flat. It will still work fine, it just might not look great.
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May 24, 2021 14:28
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Cyrano4747 posted:Follow up question: Idk anything about paint+primer, but you can skip primer if it is already painted and just use regular paint. Make sure whatever paint you are using is the same (oil or latex) as what is already on the door or else it will peel and chip over time. I can’t remember how to tell which is which and I have to google it every time.
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May 24, 2021 15:08
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Why do floor framing plans show the joist being 1" longer than I assume it should given the dimensions including the rim? Because 2 bys are slightly smaller than 2" wide? Probably? If the plan gives the overall dimension and you are trying to subtract 4" (for 2 2x's) from that to get the length from inside face to inside face, then you will be off by 1" because 2x's are 1.5" thick so just subtract 3" from the OAL and you'll be right.
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May 24, 2021 17:48
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Ok, I thought I'd heard/read somewhere that was the case. Does that mean a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 and that applies to all 2x's (x6,8, etc)?
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May 24, 2021 18:36
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surf rock posted:I have a gorgeous old solid-bronze torchiere floorlamp that I bought a few years ago. It flickers like crazy, though. The cord, plug, and I'm guessing socket are all obviously decades old at least. I'd like to solve the flickering problem and eliminate the potential fire hazard. Is my best bet to just find a reputable antique shop in the area and bring it to them for repairs, assuming they offer them? Probably not that hard to rewire yourself, but if you’re in much of a city there is almost certainly a lamp or antique store that can fix it. Look for places that sell a lot of chandeliers-they always know the crazy old electrician that fixes them if they aren’t working there already.
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Jun 1, 2021 04:18
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H110Hawk posted:Buy yourself a 100 pack of blades. Never use a dull blade again. (General advice.) Razor blades make the best paint scrapers and so much more. Get the rectangle ones with the bent sheet metal on one edge not the trapezoid things that’ll slice you up. Don’t use holders they all suck just use your fingers (try not to cut yourself)
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Jun 7, 2021 04:22
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PainterofCrap posted:Do we have a real estate thread? I'm looking to buy a building lot here in NJ. Aside from pulling a plat and walking it with the seller, what else do I need besides a couple hours with a real-estate lawyer to be sure there are no liens on it? There are no realtors involved. Yet. Once you inevitably discover you’ve unwittingly purchased an unbuildable superfund site the Corps of Engineers considers wetlands that floods all winter and catches fire every summer when it’s not being lashed by hurricanes or eaten by termites, post here for commiseration and mitigation advice. We look forward to your thread about living in the back of a U-Haul as you try to figure out where things went wrong and where that second, grandfathered-in outhouse is going to go.
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Jun 8, 2021 04:38
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H110Hawk posted:That's your ceiling. I too have been very confused by parts diagrams OP do not be too embarrassed
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Jun 9, 2021 03:26
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We're buying a new house. It dates to 1931. It has no insulation. It's in a moderate climate, so we've decided we can manage. The dining room has a through-the-wall Thermador electric heater that dates at least to the 1950s by the look of it, and is possibly older. We certainly won't use it. What are good brands of wall-mounted electric heater for a replacement? Gas isn't an option, because the house has one tiny propane tank that powers a gas fireplace. I'm assuming (we have no building skills) we'd want to buy it, then hire somebody to patch the outside and inside walls before installing the new one.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:51
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Wrapping the jaws with several layers of electrical tape works okay
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Jun 11, 2021 18:37
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