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the fart question posted:
I’m not sure about Crassula, but with other related succulents like Spekboom you want to stop watering until the new foliage starts coming in. Hang in there!
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Dec 17, 2020 00:45
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the fart question posted:I’m sort of expecting to lose over half the plant - the left trunk isn’t showing any growth yet. A lot has been removed from the right but it’s growing a bit Is it under a grow light? You could also get a cheap soil warming mat if you’re feeling extra worried and want to give the roots as much coddling as possible. No clue how much the latter would help in practice but slowly ramping up the former until it’s getting ~8hrs or more daily (probably best to stay relatively within the bounds of the season wrt sunlight hours) will really stimulate leaf growth
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Dec 17, 2020 13:51
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I’m so keen to get into orchids but I’m scared of ending up with a bunch of permanently flowerless little aroids that I can successfully keep alive and going but never get to thrive up here in New England. My mom used to have a couple of Phals that held on, flowerless and somewhat miserable and pruny looking, for like a decade. Eventually she gave them prosthetic silk flowers. Meanwhile her sister in the DR has a whole orchidarium growing out of her balcony with literally zero work on her part. Anybody ever try building a cloche/indoor greenhouse? There are some ikea-based ones that are super popular right now that seem to actually do a pretty good job of maintaining a humid microclimate and lighting while also providing tasteful display. They certainly look substantially better than getting a loving growtent, which is the other really common way I’ve seen people successfully do orchid collecting north of Georgia. Tho you can def fit more weed plants in with your phals and oncidiums in a grow tent than in a glass cabinet, so at least you have something to occupy yourself with when the orchids don’t flower again :P . I suppose if I committed to building some kind of humid enclosure I’d want to know that I could make good use of the space. I’ve seen people use them as “plant hospitals”, places to start seeds/cuttings, etc. I’ve also seen a lot of dumb Instagram bs of somebody adding lights/humidifier/fan/weatherstripping/wire shelves to a $200 cabinet and then filling the entire space with like one orchid, a large trailing pothos, and the contents of an 8” monstera pot. Like don’t get me wrong, probably 70% of my indoor plants would love nothing more than to live in a greenhouse where the ambient humidity never, ever dropped below 65%, but cloche privileges would have to be for plants that 1) fit 2) really required it like orchids, etc. Aside from orchids, what else fits in a cabinet and really needs that kind of climate management? Calatheas? I’ve seen people in the carnivorous plant scene get into it too, but if I’m ever keeping North American carnivores it’ll be in a bog filter for a koi pond outside, I ain’t dealing with winter dormancy and finicky NA carnivorous plants indoors again.
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Dec 18, 2020 01:43
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mediaphage posted:for what it's worth the problem is almost assuredly going to be light rather than humidity for orchids. yes, some sensitive orchids will do better with a higher maintained humidity (you could just have a humidifier in a closed off room for the times when they're not in bloom if it's that important), but you're probably going to want a fairly substantial source of supplemental light if you're not going to be using an outdoor greenhouse. Funny you mention that- the other part of the equation is lighting. I imagine I’d go with the same type of LED grow light I’m currently using on my shelves. The goon recommendation of Barrina lights has been great so far. They’re really bright. A Calathea mosaica I have on the other side of the room can pick up when they’re turned on. But isn’t bright direct light bad for orchids? I’ve seen reviews of the Barrina lights say that using 2-3 tubes together was enough to light stress some succulents, and I guess I believe it. I imagine that with 1-2 tubes per shelf you’d have yourself a decent little cabinet. I guess a different question would be- how hard is it to keep humidity around ~70% in a plant collection when they’re in a dry, dry-rear end room for much of the year?
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Dec 18, 2020 02:43
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Also- Costa Farms finally getting their <$20 Mosaicas- aka “network” and Birkins pushed out to Home Depots across America is a great end to 2020, it’s the Plant Internet version of when Target decided to go all in on “ironic” millennial pool toys and jizzed out a billion inflatable lime wedges and pelicans and donuts. Realtalk: I saw a whole palletful of the Birkins the other day while picking up a snowshovel and they looked good. “Christmas-gift-for-mom-and-maybe-I’ll-just-also-separate-that-one-big-pup-for-myself-shhh-nobody-will-notice” good. If the Monstera albo and Thai constellation rumored for 2021 are this good I’m gonna need to make room.
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Dec 18, 2020 02:59
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Jestery posted:Dumb ghetto solution No that does nothing. Pebble trays do nothing. Spraying with a bottle does virtually nothing but it makes us feel nice and it can have a positive effect on the plants that can sense it in some way/for some biological reason. The only thing that really works is a humidifier because a humidifier saturates the air for hours and hours which is the only way in which plants benefit (or not) from ambient moisture.
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Dec 18, 2020 03:03
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Hutla posted:I'm in Chicago, so also no natural light and the heat is on from October to May. I have a humidifier for the living room that sometimes I move into the bedroom overnight, but it's just keeping the apartment at a comfortable humidity for people so I don't get shocked by everything I touch. I did get a little led grow lamp for it once it started spiking on my brother's recommendation. Moth orchids are much hardier than you seem to believe. Just try a cheap one out from Trader Joe's or Aldi and repot it into a better medium asap. If it dies, you're only out $10. I’m currently way over my plant budget with the holiday and there are impending post-Christmas/late winter conifer and shrub sales to think about for new bonsai victims, but I guess I’ll make a plan to buy an attractive cheap orchid sometime, I see a lot of admittedly nice looking ones for a nice price. What’s the best practices in terms of buying them wrt flowers? Big flowers? Mature flowers? Immature flowers? Closed buds? Is it worth looking at the 50% off ones that are barren or on their way to losing their stalks? Tremors posted:Is this really a thing? Please don't toy with my heart. Is a thing
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Dec 18, 2020 04:35
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RickRogers posted:Yes I get that, what I mean is our (closed) cold window is a collection point for water droplets at night so in theory the air directly by the window should be moister, as they evaporate over the day? ambient humidity and best practices thereof are a pretty heavily researched topic in horticulture (to say nothing of its importance in engineering, architecture, and HVAC), and there's a fuckton of discussion and advice happening in the plant community all the time around it. Which is to say that there's a ton of information and experimentation out there, there's a ton of products to buy and habits to try, and a lot of it is of dubious quality--but also the really good advice and information are readily available (university ag departments and experts who publish are your friends) if you know how to look for it. Ultimately you're mainly balancing air temperature, air circulation and movement, and your moisture source/moisture permanence/moisture in-and-out. The stuff you're describing matters, but it's ultimately very small-scale. Unless the dew on your window is evidence of a heavy ambient humidity that's building or apartment-wide (which it often does, hence why you get the condensation--some cheap commodity-grade hygrometers placed around the house will easily tell you what's up) then it's probably entirely dissipated way before the end of morning. Unfortunately it's a very far cry from a day's worth of evaporation. It takes putting and keeping a lot of water in the air to meaningfully raise ambient humidity in a space even a cubic meter or two in volume. It's why household humidifiers can go through liters of water in a day.
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Dec 18, 2020 14:15
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Platystemon posted:O.K. there’s some of that going on, but I think you’ll find that it diffuses into the room air quickly, and there just isn’t enough moisture to go around. My parents run a home dehumidifier in their den during the summer months and that thing can easily pull 10+ gallons of water out of the room over the course of a day and I wouldn't call the palpable impact on perceived humidity "massive" by any stretch.
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Dec 18, 2020 14:23
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mediaphage posted:yeah, mostly out of a sense of fussiness. basically never spray at all unless something is obviously suffering. all of these booze bottles under such bright light  ...those orchid blooms are rad, I’d love to poop to that
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Dec 18, 2020 15:12
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mediaphage posted:what orchids are you trying for that must be held at 70% or higher forever? this isn't something we bother with, for example, and still get regular yearly or whatever blooms. i'm not saying they don't exist, but you may wish to consider varietals that are perhaps a bit less persnickety. 70% is a really high bar and not something you want to actually keep in a room, say - especially in the winter you're going to end up with condensation on windows, probably, if you go above 50% in a cold geographic area. 70+% is what I need if I want to induce lots of rapid aerial root growth in my tropical bonsai. But I feel lame for saying that it’d mostly be for “only” some ficus and schefflera so I wanted the excuse to play with other humid microclimate-demanding plants.
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Dec 19, 2020 14:01
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mediaphage posted:sure, imo you’re probably better off putting your bonsai in a jar/box/etc then though unless you want to just have a giant high humidity chamber taking up a bunch of room in your house. Lol, I figured the cabinet would be prettier than a 20gal tank also tanks are hard to keep both cool and well lit, and easy to make moldy, but also way easier to clean and move. Once I have like 10+ tropical bonsai to really benefit from it, a cabinet would be worth the outlay. Probably not for another 2 years tho, I have more than enough plants as it is, and stuff I want before I get more ficuses. And I think I’ll try adding some inexpensive orchids to my existing setup next, as per your advice. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Dec 19, 2020 |
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Dec 19, 2020 15:26
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mediaphage posted:i don’t think tanks are unattractive or hard to regulate or light, to be honest, but we keep nice fish tanks. Yeah, I regularly post in both herpthread and fishtanks. Im staring at my two tanks right now (ugh my nano reef looks like hell, just loving atrocious). I think I’m overthinking things.
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Dec 19, 2020 15:50
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B33rChiller posted:Might have to think bigger. Ready to build that (all glass) addition? Probably for the best if you design it to handle a lot of water from the start. I would absolutely love to have both a hot greenhouse and a temperate greenhouse oh my god. With a koi or turtle pond in the temperate greenhouse run through a bog filter/carnivorous plant garden. And a room for many tanks. And a tegu pen (in the greenhouse?)
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Dec 19, 2020 16:05
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I’m literally gonna move to rural Maine or New Hampshire in order to live the only sort of life that makes sense to me Imma be one of those weird old men with a greenhouse why tilapia? To eat ‘em?
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Dec 19, 2020 16:53
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Jestery posted:Pour one out for me Cuz I got low low hopes for a choko Thought it might survive but it’s really really broko
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Dec 22, 2020 09:03
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Oil of Paris posted:Legit wish there was a way to legally kill deer inside city limits Do you legit have an ordinance protecting the deer, or is it more a firearms/public endangerment-type thing?
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Dec 23, 2020 14:13
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Oil of Paris posted:It’s a town ordinance against firing guns/ hunting in general, also im double hosed bc I live directly beside an elementary school lol A town ordinance against "hunting in general"? That can't be a thing. So like, say you hypothetically walked up to a deer in your yard and just started biting it until it died. No traps, no potential public endangerment, no violation of protected habitat, just the platonic ideal scenario of you and a deer, in your yard, in mortal congress. You could be arrested for that? Edit: Jokes aside, you'd probably be cited for animal abuse. There's actually no good way to live by Beast Law in the realm of Man. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 15:47
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nice post/red text combo, lol. I had forgotten about the “hunting near a public road” prohibitions. Joking aside, all of the complicated legalese around dealing with animals and animal carcasses around roads, and what constitutes “hunting” vs “collecting” vs “euthanasia” etc in that context is actually really interesting, both from a conservation biology and wildlife management standpoint and from an ethics/philosophy/social studies/legal studies standpoint. Like, if you want to read some really complicated jurisprudence and legal wrangling/legal philosophy, look at stuff on roadkill, of all things. WRT my red text: Dude, I actually have no idea. I thought my offending post was pretty chill. It got me a probation too, for some reason, so you’re welcome to judge it for yourself 
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Dec 23, 2020 17:01
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Fleta Mcgurn posted:My mom always did the deer blood thing and they stayed away Does your mom use store-bought willow branches when performing flesh sacraments, or does she harvest her own? I know that they’re supposed to work equally well, but everybody tells me otherwise. Also the quoted bit has to be the new thread title EorayMel posted:Just do what I do Wait, I don’t remember how the old metaphor works: the apples at the bottom of the well are supposed to be goons, but so are the deer at the top, right? And then the apples refuse to get out and so then the deer pee on them? Who’s the skeleton? Is the skeleton Lowtax?
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Dec 23, 2020 21:46
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here’s the E. trigona “rubra” I got my mom for Christmas: God, it’s been hard to resist harvesting a branch for myself, but there aren’t any really nice looking ones that wouldn’t be immediately noticeable if removed Hopefully it stays healthy and happy in its new home. And hopefully it produces some nice cutting candidates at a more appropriate time. I’m worried the roots have gotten beat up too much in transit
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Dec 26, 2020 20:08
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Yoruichi posted:New Zealand zone. We get cold wet winters but no frosts, warm but not hot summers. And it's windy as gently caress. They were yellow when I got them, should they not be yellow?? I’ve never seen a crassula that yellow before but they don’t look unhealthy either. They might green up a bunch if left outside (you should bring em outside once it warms up). Crassula jades are excellent, they propagate incredibly easily if you’re halfway competent, and they make wonderful, beginner-friendly bonsai if you’re interested in joining us in that thread.
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Dec 29, 2020 07:29
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Yoruichi posted:I just want to keep them alive! Now that I know what they are (thank you, Oil of Paris) I've looked up how to look after them and I'm afraid they are probably severely waterlogged, given they've been outside (it's summer here) in the pissing rain for the last two weeks... If they don’t seem like they have root rot (droopy branches, jellylike tissue, stem softness) I’d just put them in the sun/part-sun on dry days and move them under cover when it rains so that they get soaked probably every 21 days or so. Always best to leave roots alone if there doesn’t seem to be an absolute must to digging around them The thing about crassula leaves is that they dont really yellow up first if the plant is overwatered, they just kinda get soft and pop off. And if the plant’s underwatered they shrivel up and pop off. So if the leaves are attached, copious, and firm/healthy feeling then the plant is probably at least 60% or 70% of the way toward being healthy. Edit- the Internet tells me that there’s a yellow jade varietal that looks like yours called Hummel’s Sunset. If the tips are red it’s probably fine and not unhealthy, but also your hunch about overwatering is probably right. Probably not bad enough to repot tho. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 08:31
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If you just moved a plant to a new environment and it doesn’t obviously and immediately require a repot (the roots are coming out, or you pull the plant out and it’s like 100% rootball, visible signs of root binding, etc) I’d wait at least a month before thinking about repotting it. At least observe it for a couple of weeks. Always best practice to let a plant acclimate as best as possible to a new setting before putting it through the stress of a repot. Not always possible or necessary (and lord knows I’ve repotted plenty of plants straight after getting them home) but it’s advisable. In any case, I don’t think the pot on the left looks particularly small for the plant that’s in it. It’ll need a repotting eventually but I imagine it’s probably got a bit of time left, unless it was like heavily pruned back, or something of that nature, and the leaves are giving an inaccurate sense of what’s below ground.
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Dec 29, 2020 15:09
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D-Pad posted:Hey, remember when I posted a few months back about identifying a tree that turned out to be Chinaberry and we had to have it removed because our dumb dog wouldn't stop eating them and getting really sick despite them not supposed to taste good to dogs? drat, that dog’s gotta get her fix huh
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Jan 9, 2021 20:09
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I have my own carnivorous plant question: I live in New England and rent and would love some carnivorous plants. I can't really keep any/many outdoor ones myself, but I plan to help my dad build a small pond+bog filter this summer at his house and my plan is to order some compatible ones for him to plant then. So far so good right? Will they be able to tolerate CT winters or will they need to be brought into a garage? Second question: it's January but my plant store's got a nice collection of small pitcher plants and sundews for sale. I take it these are tropical or acclimated? How well do these guys do indoors, really? I know that with flytraps (which are exclusively North American) you want to keep them cool and dormant in the winter, and many people recommend a cold windowsill or attached garage. Do tropicals/pitchers/etc need to go dormant too? Carnivorous plants and orchids are like my two next big plant-dad rubicons. Maybe getting a mangrove or two as well, idk.
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Jan 12, 2021 18:13
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holy poo poo wash your hands after repotting euphorbias my god I got like a microscopic amount of sap in my eye last night worst loving night ever, now I'm still super sore and light sensitive, but I'm gonna be ok I gotta go get an eyepatch before my zoom meeting tho
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Jan 13, 2021 18:54
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It’s all good, mostly. Predominantly photosensitive at this point (which makes computer use a real bitch) I saw some medical images of people who’d gotten enough in their eyes to have it gently caress them up for 2+ weeks and those looked....well, they looked like Edo Period depictions of Japanese demons, definitely don’t do that I’ll have my revenge on euphorbiakind, and on god, yet. Euphorbias graft incredibly easily to one another (hence the popularity and current ubiquity of crested “coral cactus” euphorbia lactea and ammak) and I just saw a video of a lady with a
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Jan 14, 2021 07:47
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That means I gotta buy a third crested for material because I ain’t cutting up either of the two perfect babies I have at home.....guys I have 33 individual Euphorbia plants across four or maybe five species, I have a problem. I don’t even have all the ones I want yet. I still gotta get some trigona rubras of my own (prolly harvest some branches from the big one I got my mom, as mentioned before), some variegated ammak, some variegated trigona, and some variegated white dragon bones lactea, and then you may bury me with them all. And then there’s the really big stuff for homeowners like triangularis, ingens, and so forth
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Jan 14, 2021 07:56
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Wallet posted:I have a strict one pot per genus rule for indoor plants (though some of the pots have three or four species in them) so I only have the ingens indoors. There's some nice ones that are cool with being cold though: I planted four or five varieties in the garden last year that all seem to be doing well even with it snowing here in zone 6. I think the myrsinites is the only one that's succulent though—I'm hoping they'll fill out next year. I’m in New England, every euphorbia I’ve had that got right cold immediately died and turned to jelly Also lmao at “one pot per genus” I have like 90 pots, though most are 4” or smaller
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Jan 14, 2021 23:52
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Wallet posted:I'm also in New England—what zone? yeah, well...I used Covid as an excuse to turn my living room into a grass-type gym Also, I see our disconnect—you’ve got some lovely lovely wood spurges outside (would love some when I have a yard) but I’m talking about succulent euphorbias: E. trigona, E. lactea, E. ammak, and E. loricata Euphorbiaceae is a big, diverse bunch- including spurges, a variety of cactus-like succulent trees, crotons, poinsettias, and so forth. Really cool lineage of plants.
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Jan 16, 2021 00:00
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do you mean terraria-as in like a bioactive enclosure or do you mean “terraria”-as in a fairy garden or little glass box with some plants in it?
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Jan 17, 2021 18:39
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Orchid goons: terra cotta or slotted plastic? This is for a basic Trader Joe’s phalaenopsis
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Jan 20, 2021 03:23
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was this posted here yet? https://youtu.be/lFue9BEHvX8
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Jan 22, 2021 06:26
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anybody have experience with Dollar Tree seed boxes and “[plant] rocket” seed plugs? Thinking of grabbing some wildflower seeds before spring, and at a buck a box they definitely beat the prices I saw last year from places like Amazon. They’re “American Seed” brand. As for the rockets, I saw some herb and flower ones that say they’re good indoors, figured I might shove some in some spare windowsill planters I have kicking around and see what happens?suck my woke dick posted:Use a clear plastic pot and drill/melt some extra holes into the side. If you have to ask about watering schedule you'll benefit from being able to see how moist and green the roots are and can adjust watering so they're dry briefly in-between. Yup. After much hemming+hawing I decided that visibility was a good thing to have as a new orchid keeper so I repurposed some deli cups.
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Jan 23, 2021 03:16
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Is artificial grow lighting unreasonable for meeting the needs of roses in wintertime?
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Jan 24, 2021 22:33
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My monstera adansonii continues to get yellow leaves. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong at this point. They’re all the most basal leaves, so I wonder if it’s a nutrient issue (vining plants like this will apparently purge basal leaves to save nutrients for driving growth and searching for more favorable conditions). I’m ready to repot and stake it up. Such a bummer I loving love this plant and it’s gotten huge here, but also kind of gangly. I’ll be super pissed if I end up losing a majority or all of it.
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Jan 24, 2021 23:47
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the fart question posted:
If it’s growing new stuff I’d leave it. You can always clip it in a few days/weeks if it looks bad but my hunch is the wound will eventually dry up and potentially die back a tiny bit (look at old plants with lots of pruning/lopping scars). If you shave even a tiny bit off you might lose all that new growth that’s alread close to the edge of the wound. You could use an old toothbrush and some clean water/peroxide to brush off the fungus, but I’d prioritize keeping that tissue dry rather than chopping it off. Maybe just dab some of the fluid off every day. Remember that dead, necrotic tissue wouldn’t be growing new leaves.
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Feb 9, 2021 10:22
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lol 90% of my poo poo goes into $0.50-5.00 terra cotta if it doesn’t go into plastic
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Feb 12, 2021 00:34
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suck my woke dick posted:I had the bright idea to start growing mounted orchids in my room during lockdown. No, I don't care about the fact my room humidity is too low for that, thank you very much. It's actually been working out ok for Phalaenopsis and Brassavola (they are indestructible and everyone should have them), mostly ok for smaller Angraecums, but not well for Aerangis (they were sulking because the roots dried out before getting long). I’ve read that ground cinnamon works as an orchid fungicide. No idea how efficacious it is.
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Feb 12, 2021 06:30
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