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Wood stove.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2021 04:23 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 02:33 |
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Your "engineer" friend isn't of any help. There is no 100V-DC system anywhere on your van. Edit: getting A and V wrong kills people. A 100Ah "1380Wh" deep cycle battery will be good for ~50% of that due to its chemistry. See Peukert's law. So lets take 100Ah * 1/2, that leaves you with 50Ah capacity to work with. .5C you speak of is is 25Ah 25Ah*12V is ~300Wh. a basic battery power tool? sure. Heated blanket? 2-5 hours depending. CPAP machine? ~5 hours. All this poo poo at once? not on your life, kid. These times are all perfect scenarios, That inverter is probably 80% efficient at best, so your run time is going deeper into the timbershitter. Vent the battery to atmosphere, not internally to the coach as it emits hydrogen during charging. A Ford 1G alternator in good health should be good for 20-30A at idle, 2/3G around 40ish. 1G alternators tend to overheat. and the full 80A at 1500 engine rpm or so. (5000 alternator rotor rpm). Its an econoline, go get the heavy duty ambo parts. Want to run big power? 4x golf cart batteries in a 2S2P array at minimum. tldr: a single deep cycle battery isn't worth poo poo, and your "engineer" friend is wrong, stop listening to them. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Feb 25, 2021 |
# ¿ Feb 25, 2021 05:06 |
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Rytheric posted:The problem is that I do have professionals giving me advise and designing things for me. Yet Rytheric posted:Well more unfortunate news. I accidently depleted the groverBattery to the point my inverter doesn't want to charge it (Left my outlets on and the inverter drains the battery anyway.) And I'm too lazy to crank up the engine right now and don't want to wake the neighbors anyway. Luckily it's raining so it's going to stay roughly 39 throughout the night. So roughly 50-55 in the box so I should be good. Need a switch to disconnect everything so I don't accidently drain my battery in the future.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2021 18:53 |
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Motronic posted:
Seriously. You can get that much torque just by pushing down on your morning piss-hard. Careful to not blow your legs out from under you. E Pictoral references for help. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 28, 2021 |
# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 00:26 |
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If you think you're going to pull apart the Twin Traction Beam with no special tools for those springs at all, think again. Lemme introduce you to another law, Hooke's law. Those coils will righteously gently caress up your day if you think you're just gonna pop apart the TTB with cinderblocks and babbies first socket set. The hogged to poo poo shocks constrain the movement of those arms. What's best is there's probably two tons pushing down on that axle right now on top of all this janky poo poo you propose.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 05:45 |
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Rytheric posted:Yeah, so disclaimer this is all youtube stuff. But the idea is to just lift it up until the suspension droops, take off the shock then pull the spring out. Ive used people use c clamps or just a screw driver. Wrong method. As soon as you pull the shocks the springs have free reign to push those arms down as far as they can. If you are under the arm, it'll push it right through you without a single gently caress given. UCS Hellmaker posted:DO NOT DO THIS DEAR loving GOD NO DO NOT USE CLAMPS OR ANYTHING NOT RATED FOR THE SPRING OR THE GODDAMN JOB Do this. I'm not making GBS threads you.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 06:29 |
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Rytheric posted:Thats a good piece of information. The guy was a bit more concerned about how tuff he was to give decent information, but after you pointed it out. It looks like they were using the bottle jack to slowly lower the spring. But I can see that if you accidently let the pressure out of the jack too fast or didn't jack the vehicle up enough you'll have problems. Right, and if the jack is on dirt, leaves, primitve ground, likely hood of it sliding out goes up 10 fold. These lads are working on a cement pad in a shop. A piece of dirt is not the place to re-enact such a job. With unladen TTB arms and you're right there pulling bolts off the shock you are inches from the spring. The spring containing at least a half ton of energy. Where's it gonna go? out. And it's gonna do it fast, with little regard to anything in its path.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 06:46 |
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Yawgmoth posted:I just want everyone to know that everyone in this thread has been saying reign (to rule over) when they mean rein (that thing you use to guide a horse). The phrase "free rein" means to let the horse go where it wants to. Good catch, Thanks! Rytheric posted:All that aside. Could someone tell me what the exhaust is suppose to look like. It just ends. In the middle. Under the truck. That doesn't seem natural. My grandpa busted out laughing when I told him that over christmas. It should cross over the rear axle and terminate at the side of the upfitter body somewhere behind the right rear wheel. Any muffler shop can get it sorted out.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 07:17 |
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StarkRavingMad posted:This thread was a lot of fun before people decided to endlessly wet blanket all over it Sorry to have ruined your snuff fetish. I've seen enough near fatal incidents for one short lifetime. There's no reason for someone to undergo life changing or even ending injuries for the hahas of a dead gay comedy forum. beep-beep car is go posted:First smart thing Ive seen in this thread. Now sell the telescope and buy a clapped out RV for 2 grand and live in that! jyessssss Old ambo/classB/classC.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 20:29 |
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Anal-ysis in bold.Rytheric posted:And now we peer into the dark, mysterious recesses of the GroverTruk underbelly. Timg-ed for your pleasure. Now. To align ttb takes some wizardry and a little witchcraft. With old parts its almost impossible to get them setup perfect so that they don't eat tires. Ball joints, Tie rod ends, the previously mentioned pivot and radius arm bushings are the minimum. Front sway bushings optional though recommended. Rear axle: shocks, shackle bushings, leaf pack bushings, and sway bar bushings will get that up to servicable condition. Bonus is to re-arch those springs, If you're gonna go that far, stick new front coil springs in. SD Truck Spring has good deals on springs. It is safe to do shocks and sway bar bushings on this vehicle with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension. E: wheels installed and on the ground. Expect the shock uppers to fight you. Bring heat (torch), a sawzall (to cut the shaft), and vise-grips to clamp onto the shock shaft. Cut the plastic dust cover off and clamp onto it. Hit the upper shock nut with a ton of penetrant and go to town. Cost to farm this out? expect a minimum a grand or a few to get the suspension sitting pretty and up to snuff. Have the rear differential serviced while they're in there. Is it worth it? ehhhh 351(5.8L)/460(7.5L) powered box trucks aren't terribly desirable. This is a nearly 30 year old fleet(Pre-97 dash) vehicle that has clearly spent some time sitting and longer time without fleet service. It will cost $$$$ to get it back up and running as good as it once was. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Feb 28, 2021 |
# ¿ Feb 28, 2021 20:55 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 02:33 |
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Grip trucks are totally different animals than small box trucks. btdt. E: cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Mar 1, 2021 |
# ¿ Mar 1, 2021 00:00 |