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Thank you SO MUCH, alcinor. You are fabulous. As soon as my guy gets home I'm showing him Sugar and Spice; I think I'm in love.  For the rest of you, look at these guys: http://www.spcawake.org/site/PageServer?pagename=Adoptable_Other_Animals They're the buns right underneath the snake picture.
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Oct 19, 2007 19:05
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Queen of Roses posted:Thank you SO MUCH, alcinor. You are fabulous. As soon as my guy gets home I'm showing him Sugar and Spice; I think I'm in love. awwww! QofR, they are soooo adorkable!  And they look like they are in wub.  yep. I get stewpid over cuteness like that. :P
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Oct 19, 2007 19:43
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Queen of Roses posted:Thank you SO MUCH, alcinor. You are fabulous. As soon as my guy gets home I'm showing him Sugar and Spice; I think I'm in love. ooh a mother and her kid. that's so cuuuute. They look like they have nice markings as well+added cute names. Anyone have any tips to warm their bun up to them? Annie is wonderful but Ben is really jumpy most of the time and I can barely pet him. I give him treats and pet him while he eats and what not to try and help the situation, maybe hes just a less social bunny. Or maybe he's normal and Annie's just too social so when compared he seems less so....
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Oct 20, 2007 03:04
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So Momiji now has a friend, a few months old bun named Cowslip (it fits her, all right, even if my Watership Down chosen name isn't as cool as Fiver or Blackavar!), and they seem to get along well...for about a minute. Then the neutered Mo jumps the smaller Cowslip and proceeds to try and breed. Is there anything I can do to, well, stop this? Since I just got Cowslip, I haven't taken her to the vet for her own fixing yet, but Mo is nearly twice her size (but they weigh about the same) with his fur, and from the way she panics, I don't think she's in season at all. drat it, Mo, I finally get you a friend and rape is all you can think of! 
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Oct 20, 2007 22:12
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TheDeadKnow posted:So Momiji now has a friend, a few months old bun named Cowslip (it fits her, all right, even if my Watership Down chosen name isn't as cool as Fiver or Blackavar!), and they seem to get along well...for about a minute. Then the neutered Mo jumps the smaller Cowslip and proceeds to try and breed. I would probably wait until she is spayed + a month or so before I'd try bonding them. That might just be me. Both of mine are spayed/neutered and Jack still mounts Lucy. Then Lucy bites his face...and that's why we're not bonded yet. Anyways, just be careful, make sure no fighting occurs!
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Oct 21, 2007 02:26
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I have two house rabbits back at home. I wish I wasn't living in a dorm so I could have them (and my dogs) here with me. This is Blackavar:  I wish I had the rest of the pictures of him on this laptop. I've had him for almost 6 years now. We got him from a rescue group after we saw him on petfinder and his page said he'd been found in a dumpster when he was a baby. He's always been fairly antisocial, especially with people outside of my parents and I. We did our best to socialize him, but he still is only friendly with us. And even now, he occasionally doesn't like being handled even by us. But we love him anyway. I also have 3-year-old dwarf/dutch mix named Spooky that we adopted a few halloweens ago. A guy my mom worked with got her for his five-year-old son, and the kid got tired of her a few months later. Eventually my mom caved and took her home. She's very sweet, thought she can be a bit skittish or nervous at times. (she was really prone to having those pseudo pregnancies at one point too. A few weeks after we got her we had to have her emergency spayed because she pulled all of her hair out, poor thing.)But she loves to climb up on the couch with us and watch TV. She also likes to play with the remotes.  Sadly, I don't have any pics of her on this laptop. I'll have to wait until my mom e-mails them to me.
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Oct 22, 2007 00:01
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girlscoutdropout posted:I would probably wait until she is spayed + a month or so before I'd try bonding them. That might just be me. Both of mine are spayed/neutered and Jack still mounts Lucy. Then Lucy bites his face...and that's why we're not bonded yet. Day two on bonding: so far the jumps on Cowslip have stopped. Instead I see the two of them napping close to each other, though I don't see them touching that much. Mo's decided to be a little jerk by showing her all of his secret spots where it's harder for me to get to them, and also how to jump up onto and down from the couch. They are supervised at all times and kept apart when I'm not around, but so far I have not seen any fights.
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Oct 22, 2007 05:23
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So I bought a female bunny. It was supposed to be fixed, but I've come to find out that the bunny isn't fixed at all. And right now, It's possibly a very pregnate bunny. Since I can't get the bunny fixed when it's pregnate, what the hell am I going to do with a billion baby rabbits?
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Oct 22, 2007 12:09
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Master_Jay posted:Since I can't get the bunny fixed when it's pregnate, what the hell am I going to do with a billion baby rabbits? Actually you can spay a pregnant rabbit quite safely, unless she's very near full term. Get to a specialist vet ASAP so they can determine how far along she is and schedule the surgery quickly if they still can. If you post your zip code I can help you find a good vet for her.
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Oct 22, 2007 14:31
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I adopted a couple of male rabbits a few months ago (Rosencrantz and Guildenstern) and they've always gotten along just fine. Until recently. (not so)Quick backstory: I wound up with these two guys because they were the only two neutered rabbits at the local animal shelter, and since they shared the same cage there with some others I figured they'd get along pretty well. They did for awhile. It wasn't the tightest of bonds; they never seemed to groom each other, but they did sleep side by side and would often play at the same time. Eventually it came to my attention that there was a mistake, and Guildenstern was never actually neutered (which explained his constantly trying to hump Rosencrantz). So I called up the animal shelter, and had that done. Again, things were fine between the two, up until I had Guildenstern treated for Ear Mites (with Revolution and some antibiotic ear drops). Things were okay for awhile after that, then suddenly they started fighting. It's been at least two weeks now, and they still fight if they're together for more than a few seconds. I keep them seperated, and have tried my hand at rebonding them, but nothing is taking so far. It's finally to the point where I'm trying to put one up for adoption, but so far there have been no takers. I wonder if anyone else has had a similar situation or has any tips? I'd like to try again with another rabbit, a spayed female this time. Is it irresponsible for me to give one up for adoption and then immediately seek to adopt another? It's just getting a little depressing. They don't seem happy being alone all of the time, but they can't be together either. Sorry I don't have a better pic. Rosencrantz is on the left, Guildenstern on the right. .JPG)
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Oct 23, 2007 06:45
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pauliesyllabic posted:have tried my hand at rebonding them, but nothing is taking so far. What exactly are you trying? I have a post upthread detailing the bonding process, basically a summary of the information here (be sure to read the links on the right too). Let me know what your process is and maybe I can give you some pointers that might improve matters. However, two weeks post-neuter also isn't long enough for the hormones to get out of his system, it needs at least a month. I'd leave them in side-by-side enclosures with NO interaction attempts, for at least another 4 weeks, THEN start the bonding process, with focus on dryer rides and side-by-side petting rather than free interaction. It may take a while; it took me nearly 8 months to bond my latest pair. They really do benefit just from being near one another (although definitely not as much as from being together) so it's not cruel to delay that long, as long as they can see and smell and preferably sniff noses through the grids. If that doesn't work out, I'd recommend contacting a rabbit rescue rather than trying the shelter again. Explain the situation - most rescues would be happy to do a trade, especially since your rabbit is already neutered (the biggest cost to intake).
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Oct 23, 2007 14:47
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Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm a little weirded out because this came on after months of happy cohabitation. I've spent some time on rabbit.org, and the one thing that worries me is the mention that male bonded pairs just do this every now and then. Hopefully that won't be the case with mine. I think I'll give it another go though. I've got a day off next week I can use to build a small cage next to the one I already have. Hopefully they'll start getting used to being near one another that way. As of right now I'm keeping one in the cage and one in the bathroom, but that's not working out real well for any of us.
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Oct 25, 2007 03:32
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pauliesyllabic posted:Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm a little weirded out because this came on after months of happy cohabitation. I've spent some time on rabbit.org, and the one thing that worries me is the mention that male bonded pairs just do this every now and then. Hopefully that won't be the case with mine. I've never had that problem with my bonded males, although admittedly we're talking 2 pairs, both rabbits neutered long before bonding started. One thing to remember is that once you start bonding, any disruption to the process basically means "start over". So side-by-side cages will do wonders, and you won't see any progress until they are in sight and nose of each other 24-7. An excellent bonding cage is made using those shelf grids from Target or Bed Bath & Beyond. Grab some zip ties from the hardware store and make a grid wall which is 2 grids wide by 12 grids long. Set it upright and fold into a box, making a cage 2 grids deep by 4 grids wide, with the opening in the center of the front long wall. Make another wall 2 grids by 2 grids, and use it to divide the cage down the middle from front to back. Use caribiners or binder clips to secure each door to the center divider. You now have a joined pair of 2x2 cages, each with it's own door:  When they finally do bond, you just take out the divider and you have a 2x4, perfect for two rabbits. Note: the grids are 14" long, so a 2x4 is actually 28"x56".
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Oct 25, 2007 16:06
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Severus ended up having some health issues that he had to deal with before he could get properly fixed, but now that he's dealt with that, we took him in to get fixed. He is now home from his opperation. The dr. said to keep him in his small baby cage for about a week to make sure he doesn't jump around and pull his stitches out. (Something that happened earlier.) He hates being in such a small cage, and I really feel for him, but my Vet is pretty good with bunnies so I trust him. However I built him a new cage with the tools suggested in this thread. Total about, I dunno, $50! The cubes are on sale this week at Target (at least mine) for $12 instead of 14.99. I got rubber made tubs for his litter boxes because they were 1.39 at the grocery store compared to the 10.99 ones at pet store. I have created a palace of Luxury!  Yes those are my favorite pair of grey Dickies. Sev really enjoys clawing and digging in those so I finally caved in and gave them to him. That's a dog bed in there in on the top level. It's something that Severus enjoys spending his time in, digging and and chomping at it. On the bottom floor I used two cubicle plates in the middle left and right position to create four rooms on the bottom floor. This gives the top floor a lot more stability without adding any support beams. In the back corner that you can't see in the picture is a small card board box that lets Sev hide out if he wants to be alone. It fits right under the step that I have zip tied in on 3 sides so he can get up to the 2nd level easier. I also have a hand towel on that step for him to claw and dig on. It's paradise.  Severus says hello! Chiken n' Waffles fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Oct 26, 2007 |
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Oct 26, 2007 00:25
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I had to share the little incident that just happened with my silly boy Jack. I was painting some wooden letters on the living room floor and I had a cup of water to rinse with, it was filled with blue water. I was going to the bathroom and Jack knocks over the water. I walk in with him sitting in a puddle of blue water (thankfully we have hardwood and not carpet). Jack has white feet...but not anymore, it has a nice tinge of blue. I actually ended up trancing him and cleaning most of it off, now he's upset that he has wet paws. The fur on his mouth wasn't blue so I don't think he drank any of it, I am going to keep an eye on him for the next 24 hours though. Don't you love bunny antics?
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Oct 26, 2007 03:26
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Chiken n' Waffles posted:
He almost resembles my Captain Murphy, a super cutie you have there Also, if Severus is a digger, or an easily bored bunny, that rug will not last long. I put one like that as the floor to Debbie's cage and she's been shredding it into a cottony mess. I really need to track down some coroplast or scrap linoleum asap
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Oct 26, 2007 05:46
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I have a question for those of you with a bonded pair: After the initial bonding, and they're settled in nice and good, it seems that Annie has completely stopped mounting Ben. Is her dominance asserted and she feels she doesn't need to or are they more mutually dominant? I've been noticing Ben nipping Annie in various areas and then the kinda start tussling and I break them up. They only seem to do it when they're out playing and energetic, and they still groom and snuggle in the cage. Is this just play fighting? Ben has gotten quite a few victory tufts... Am I just worrying too much? they still seem quite friendly most of the time. Annie chins Ben and I never see him chin her, so I would have to guess she's still dominant...
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Oct 26, 2007 06:05
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Queen of Roses posted:(Bunny stuff) Hello fellow carrboro bunny fanatic. I got my second rabbit through alucinor so I don't know which area rescues are good, but if you need any cage building help, I've got it down to a science. You can pm me here or email me at bunnii@gmail.com alucinor posted:Here is my list of recommended vets. Actually I need to take Dr Ward off that list, he's retired. Frankly you should go to A&E regardless of cost and distance. I think they are moved/are moving into Briar Creek just off 540, so that should be pretty convenient from almost anywhere. They are the people I took my personal pets to as well as the most difficult rescue cases. They cost more but they are absolutely worth it. I recently got a letter from Avian and Exotic about their moving. I need to take my buns in for vet appointments in November so I've gotta give them a call. Since I got the moving letter, I assume they've already moved. DOOM Rabbit fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Oct 26, 2007 |
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Oct 26, 2007 06:30
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Gah, double post. Sorry
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Oct 26, 2007 06:35
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Chiken n' Waffles posted:However I built him a new cage with the tools suggested in this thread. Total about, I dunno, $50 I have created a palace of Luxury! Unless DOOMrabbit gets me hooked up even better. (I got your message, thank you so much!)So, I showed my fiance Sugar and Spice and his only comment was, "So when do you want them?"  We'll start seriously filling out adoption forms and bunny proofing after our honeymoon (when we'll have, you know, time.) but I am so excited! We've already bought a bag of litter, a litterbox, some heavy bowls, and a starter bag of hay. We really need to play with the cubes, but that may be a little while yet.Question on cage placement: Where should it go? We spend a lot of time in our second bedroom, as we've made it an office with our computers and a second TV. I'd love to put the buns in there but my guy is ADAMANT that there's too many cables for us to cover them all. So I'm measuring and brainstorming about a better spot. Where do you all put your rabbits? You rabbit goons are so nice. I'm already thanking you for all of the help and I don't even have rabbits yet!
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Oct 26, 2007 13:58
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Deceptor101 posted:I have a question for those of you with a bonded pair: As long as Ben isn't nipping her in the face, that's usually just play fighting. I've heard of rabbits nipping at their owners to get attention (thankfully mine don't, they'll nudge the hell out of you though). I think it's the same with bunnies. A nip on the butt can mean "Haha! Got you!" or "Hey! I'm over here, play with me!" in playtime. Bunnies that are being vicious usually go for eyes, lips, and noses specifically. At least that's what I've been told. Edit: I swear I got a A in spelling in grade school.
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Oct 26, 2007 14:06
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Deceptor101 posted:I have a question for those of you with a bonded pair: Sounds about normal. Yes, once they've established a pecking order, most dominance displays end. However, they may start up again if one of the pair is not doing their duty, ie, not grooming when the other wants it, sitting where the other wants to sit, etc. You're doing perfectly by continuing to break it up. DOOM Rabbit posted:I recently got a letter from Avian and Exotic about their moving. I need to take my buns in for vet appointments in November so I've gotta give them a call. Since I got the moving letter, I assume they've already moved.  Yep, they moved - their new setup is unbelievable. I haven't seen the office itself but I saw the blueprints - wet and dry lab space, five times as many exam rooms, quarantine rooms, surgery rooms, etc. For all that their prices are usurious I'm happy they've put it back into the clinic rather than into buying gold plated rolexes for Dr Dan!Queen of Roses posted:So, I showed my fiance Sugar and Spice and his only comment was, "So when do you want them?" AWESOME. Lindsay said they were sweet buns, I can't wait to see them go to a good home. You might want to go ahead and contact SPCA and let them know you're interested; maybe even fill out an app. If they are already placed when you get back from your honeymoon, I've had three surrender offers in the last three days, including an almost bonded pair in Charlotte who'll be going up on Petfinder soon. So we can definitely hook you up either way. Queen of Roses posted:Question on cage placement: Where should it go? We spend a lot of time in our second bedroom, as we've made it an office with our computers and a second TV. I'd love to put the buns in there but my guy is ADAMANT that there's too many cables for us to cover them all. So I'm measuring and brainstorming about a better spot. Where do you all put your rabbits? You could probably wrap all those cables but it would take lots of money and time, and it may not be worth the chance that they'll still find something to nibble on. You can make a small gate of grids so that while you are in that room, they can run up and down the hall and peek in to see you. Living room or close to the kitchen (like a dining nook if you have one) would probably be best. I'd say do not put them in your bedroom unless you're a really deep sleeper. They start to get active about 4am which is not fun on a work night. Queen of Roses posted:You rabbit goons are so nice. I'm already thanking you for all of the help and I don't even have rabbits yet! We live to serve. Both for you and DOOM Rabbit, if you shop at Phydeaux and need any special attention, talk to the highly-pierced guy named Mo. He was one of my foster parents (and adopted two of my piggies!) and has helped several people with their bunnies.
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Oct 26, 2007 15:02
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alucinor posted:You could probably wrap all those cables but it would take lots of money and time, and it may not be worth the chance that they'll still find something to nibble on. You can make a small gate of grids so that while you are in that room, they can run up and down the hall and peek in to see you. alucinor posted:Living room or close to the kitchen (like a dining nook if you have one) would probably be best. I'd say do not put them in your bedroom unless you're a really deep sleeper. They start to get active about 4am which is not fun on a work night. girlscoutdropout fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Oct 26, 2007 |
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Oct 26, 2007 18:41
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My rabbit's been having a lot of sneezing fits lately. I already took him to a vet for some antibiotics because it's probably just a little cold but I got the weirdest look when I mentioned I had some carpet in the rabbit's cage. It's some pretty high quality wool carpet that my parents had lying around and I don't think he chews on it or anything but the vet said newspapers would be better. And also that I should stop giving him hay for a while. He might be allergic to hay  I don't think it's very common in the Netherlands to fuss this much over a rabbit. People either stick them outside in a wire contraption or put them in a cage with wood chippings covering the floor.
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Oct 26, 2007 18:43
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NMR posted:It's some pretty high quality wool carpet that my parents had lying around and I don't think he chews on it or anything but the vet said newspapers would be better. And also that I should stop giving him hay for a while. DON'T stop feeding him hay. That's a sure-fire route to stasis or malloclusion. Instead, switch brands. If you are feeding store-bought, try some bought online or from a equine hay supplier. You can also try switching types - I assume you are feeding timothy? Do you have access to bluegrass, orchard grass, or bermudagrass there? For my first few months up here in Wisconsin, the Oxbow was VERY dusty - I felt a lot of it (like 10lbs per 50lb box) was being wasted, and my vet friend felt her rabbit was sneezing overly-much because of it. Both of us switched to KM's Hayloft. She went with a timothy-bluegrass mix, and her bunny's sneezing seemed to reduce dramatically. I went to all bluegrass and I think we're wasting less than a pound per 40lb box. NMR posted:I don't think it's very common in the Netherlands to fuss this much over a rabbit. Kudos to you for going above and beyond, then. girlscoutdropout posted:The cubes sold at Bed Bath and Beyond or more like wise mesh rather than the 1 x 1 inch squares like I use for pens. I got those and zip tied them to make a barrier for all the wires under my desk. That is an EXCELLENT idea.
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Oct 26, 2007 18:59
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girlscoutdropout posted:The cubes sold at Bed Bath and Beyond or more like wise mesh rather than the 1 x 1 inch squares like I use for pens. I got those and zip tied them to make a barrier for all the wires under my desk. I haven't seen these and can't find them on their website - but it's exactly what I need for ferret barriers. Has anyone seen this sort of thing online? My little bastard ferrets are sometimes able to get through the holes of the regular panels.
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Oct 26, 2007 19:19
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alucinor posted:DON'T stop feeding him hay. That's a sure-fire route to stasis or malloclusion. Instead, switch brands. If you are feeding store-bought, try some bought online or from a equine hay supplier. You can also try switching types - I assume you are feeding timothy? Do you have access to bluegrass, orchard grass, or bermudagrass there? Well, I already switched brands several times but there's always a lot of dust there. Right now I'm using the most expensive stuff I can find but most of the time I still end up throwing almost a fourth of the bag away. It's standard timothy stuff with different "flavors" like camomille or dandelion. It's kind of hard to find different kinds of hay. None of those American brands are available here. And I live in the city so I can't really find any good fresh grass for him. But I didn't really stop feeding him hay  And now he's got indigestion from being overfed by my roommate. I shouldn't let anybody but me interfere with my rabbit's diet.
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Oct 26, 2007 19:20
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Tickle Me Emo posted:I haven't seen these and can't find them on their website - but it's exactly what I need for ferret barriers. Has anyone seen this sort of thing online? My little bastard ferrets are sometimes able to get through the holes of the regular panels. I've only seen them there in August in the "going off to college" section. I'll keep my eye out for them though. Edit: http://www.outdoordepot.ca/dotnetnuke/Default.aspx?tabid=86&CategoryID=13&List=0&SortField=ProductName%2cProductName&catpageindex=8&Level=1&ProductID=1289
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Oct 26, 2007 21:29
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NMR posted:Well, I already switched brands several times but there's always a lot of dust there. Right now I'm using the most expensive stuff I can find but most of the time I still end up throwing almost a fourth of the bag away. It's standard timothy stuff with different "flavors" like camomille or dandelion. I really would try to venture to the nearest farmer and buy a bale of local hay. My rabbits always like that best. I buy a bale (for like 6 bucks) and divide it up and seal it as tightly as I can in 6-8 garbage bags. A bale usually lasts me 3 months or so with 2 bunnies.
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Oct 26, 2007 21:32
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alucinor posted:
One of my friends works there. I'll ask her who he is next time I'm in there. I don't remember if I've seen highly-pierced guy before. I'm also horribly unobservant. On a different note, my formerly litter-box trained rabbits have apparently decided they prefer peeing NEXT to the boxes. They do fine when they're at my mom's house, but when they're home, it's different. I bring the boxes with me so it's not like they have different ones in each place. I can't figure out why they keep doing that. They don't pee anywhere else but in and NEXT TO the boxes and then it leaks out the corner of the coroplast and it's a major pain in the rear end. I'm about ready to buy another coroplast sheet for the bottom and calk the corners to keep it at least in the cage.
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Oct 26, 2007 22:39
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More bonding stuff between Momiji and Cowslip: I haven't seen him mount her for a few days now, and no fights at all, though Momo does try to trick her into getting lettuc from me first, so he can sniff her butt. I don't know if that counts as a prelude to mounting, but there's none of the desperate OMG RABBIT pouncing attacks from when they first met. Are we out of the first set of serious woods for now? Anything else to watch out for?
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Oct 27, 2007 15:06
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I'm worried that my rabbits are taking too long to bond. We've had Laser (boy) for about 3 months and Binky (girl) for about 2 months. They were spayed/neutered when we got them from the RSPCA. They have a cubes cage that they can see/sniff each other through. We do supervised introductions in neutral territory (generally either the bathroom or kitchen) every few days. As of a week ago Laser would groom Binky for a significant amount of each introduction time. Then Lazer went through a period of pissing everywhere. He had previously been very good about only pissing in his litter box. Now when they are introduced Laser will usually groom Binky for a while, then the 2 will face off for a minute or so each trying to get the other to groom them. If Laser doesn't cave and start grooming Binky within about a minute either Binky will take a swipe at him or they will start circling each other and start fighting if I don't separate them quickly enough by placing a washing basket over one of them. Laser occasionally grooms Binky through the cage. I have never seen Binky grooming Laser. What can I do to get these guys back on friendly terms? Here they are: Laser is white, Binky is grey. Just before this photo was taken Laser was grooming Binky through the cage. 
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Oct 27, 2007 23:44
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AnotherFreakboy posted:I'm worried that my rabbits are taking too long to bond. Only 2 months of bonding so far? Haha come back and talk to me when it's been 6 months and still no progress. Bonding can take a very long time, sometimes a year or so. Good luck! Edit: Accidental narrowed-mindedness girlscoutdropout fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Oct 28, 2007 |
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Oct 28, 2007 00:07
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girlscoutdropout posted:Only 2 months of bonding so far? Haha come back and talk to me when it's been 6 months and still no progress. I am guessing then that my rabbits are tolerating each other and not bonded then?
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Oct 28, 2007 00:49
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TheDeadKnow posted:I am guessing then that my rabbits are tolerating each other and not bonded then? Eeks, sorry, that should of been "Bonding can take a long time.." sorry! Congratulations for it going so well!
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Oct 28, 2007 02:15
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girlscoutdropout posted:I really would try to venture to the nearest farmer and buy a bale of local hay. My rabbits always like that best. I buy a bale (for like 6 bucks) and divide it up and seal it as tightly as I can in 6-8 garbage bags. A bale usually lasts me 3 months or so with 2 bunnies. Thanks but I think this is going to be a moot point soon. Basically ever since I got back from the vet he seems to be having really loud stomach rumblings and diarrhoea and won't eat at all. I went back yesterday but the vet said his stomach seemed fine and gave him a shot of painkillers. He can barely move now and his ears are so cold to the touch. I don't think he's going to last very long Anybody have any tips on getting a rabbit to eat?
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Oct 28, 2007 10:40
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NMR posted:
Mix diluted apple juice into the pellets. Although pellets are the least healthy thing he could be eating (out of hay, pellets, and veggies). Is he not eating anything? Even his favorite veggie?
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Oct 28, 2007 15:52
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girlscoutdropout posted:Mix diluted apple juice into the pellets. Although pellets are the least healthy thing he could be eating (out of hay, pellets, and veggies). Is he not eating anything? Even his favorite veggie? He's really not eating anything even though I'm practically shoving his favourite snacks down his throat. It's like he's disgusted by them.
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Oct 28, 2007 18:21
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girlscoutdropout posted:Mix diluted apple juice into the pellets. Although pellets are the least healthy thing he could be eating (out of hay, pellets, and veggies). Is he not eating anything? Even his favorite veggie? Does this apply to all pellets, pretty much? I use the KayTee Timothy Complete pellets and timothy and other grass hays, but pellets are always out for the buns to snack on.
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Oct 28, 2007 19:42
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TheDeadKnow posted:Does this apply to all pellets, pretty much? I use the KayTee Timothy Complete pellets and timothy and other grass hays, but pellets are always out for the buns to snack on. KayTee Timothy Complete is one of the best pellets to give, but it still has other ingredients in addition to the hay, (most have a molasses coating) this is what makes is less healthy. Pellets are good for, like you said, snacking on throughout the day. I've heard bunnies can live on hay and veggies alone, but it's always good to be on the safe side and have pellets to snack on.
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Oct 29, 2007 00:51
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