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goku chewbacca posted:Hey crew! I'm going to look at a 1996 M-Edition tomorrow, Starlight Mica Blue, 1 of ~3000.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 05:19 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 04:53 |
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goku chewbacca posted:108,000 miles, original owner, "garaged since new, the paint looks like new-w/no dents or scratches..Top looks new, with real glass" All the pictures look great. Flawless tan leather interior. All adds say that, and cars usually never look as good in person as they do in the pictures. I'd reserve judgement until you see and drive it in person, find out it's maintenance history i.e. has the timing belt been done, does it have records? Then make an offer based on the condition of the car.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 05:26 |
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With a great top, TB/WP done, and a perfect exterior, with that mileage, $4800 would be a very good buy. Offer him $4500, and if he stays firm, write a check for the full amount and don't look back.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 09:32 |
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Saw an NA Miata on the cover of a car magazine that was the same color as mine. Obviously I had no choice but to buy the magazine.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 18:54 |
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Out of curiosity, how long are you guys pushing your Miatas on oil changes? Thanks to our recent move we are putting a shitload of miles on our '99 - on the order of 40-50 miles a day at least five if not six days a week. I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic on 5000 mile intervals, but if I'm having to dive in there nearly every three months like clockwork, the idea of switching over to the Mobil 1 Extended Performance and pushing it to, say, 8000 or 10000 miles is tempting.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 18:58 |
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Gear Head posted:Saw an NA Miata on the cover of a car magazine that was the same color as mine. I bought that for the same reason a couple weeks back. I also wanted it for the clutch replacement walkthrough.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 19:00 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Out of curiosity, how long are you guys pushing your Miatas on oil changes? Thanks to our recent move we are putting a shitload of miles on our '99 - on the order of 40-50 miles a day at least five if not six days a week. I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic on 5000 mile intervals, but if I'm having to dive in there nearly every three months like clockwork, the idea of switching over to the Mobil 1 Extended Performance and pushing it to, say, 8000 or 10000 miles is tempting. Do a change at 5000 miles, and send it to Blackstone Labs. They do oil analysis on engines for the public. Then, send them a sample of 7500 mile old oil, and 10,000 mile old oil. They should be able to tell you whether your engine and your driving style and that particular oil will still give you good lubrication after X miles. Me, I've been doing them every 2500-3000 miles with Mobil, but I have over 4000 on the current batch. It's getting changed when I go home for Christmas. I do have about a thousand track miles on the car in the last 9000 miles, though.
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 21:13 |
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MR2 junkie turned Miata convert, I absolutely /love/ this car. I've never had such a silly grin driving around since I bought my first car back in the day. Almost picked up a cherried out '88 MR2.. sold two hours after I talked to the guy, and saw this one immediately after on Craigslist. So-oh-god-fun. Left Side Engine
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# ? Nov 20, 2007 21:20 |
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I bought that 96 M-Edition. She's as perfect as the seller described. Immaculate. I'll post pictures soon.
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# ? Nov 21, 2007 05:04 |
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I have a problem with my car. In the mornings, I start up my car, let it run for about a minute, then go on my way. As soon as I get going, the car jerks. It doesn't matter what gear I'm in, but it kinda stutters, and jerks, and the tach needle bounces a little. Now, this happens a little more when it's cold outside, but it goes away after 2-3 minutes. It's an NC with a 6spd if that matters. Is this something I should be concerned about, or is that just the way it is when it's cold?
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# ? Nov 21, 2007 09:00 |
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My NA definitely feels very "jerky" when its cold, but smoothes out enormously within a minute or two of being driven. Although mine isn't jerking erratically on its own nor does it noticeably stutter or have a hunting idle. I can't make a perfectly smooth shift when its cold to save my life though, hence where most of the jerkiness comes from. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the car feels very "stiff" before getting warmed up, particularly in cold weather. I'm not sure if that's what you're describing, or if your symptoms are worse, though.
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# ? Nov 21, 2007 09:05 |
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When should the cambelt be done, and how much is it likely to set me back?
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# ? Nov 21, 2007 14:02 |
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Yokohead posted:MR2 junkie turned Miata convert, I absolutely /love/ this car. I've never had such a silly grin driving around since I bought my first car back in the day. Almost picked up a cherried out '88 MR2.. sold two hours after I talked to the guy, and saw this one immediately after on Craigslist. Hey there ex-MR2 junkie buddy! Had a black 91T before I just recently picked up my 03 Miata in the same color as yours! Good stuff! @Angor and Guiness : I know some of the NB's of the 01-03 models have that problem. It's called "clutch shudder" or "clutch chatter" See service bulletin Etrips fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Nov 21, 2007 |
# ? Nov 21, 2007 19:40 |
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willd58 posted:When should the cambelt be done, and how much is it likely to set me back?
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# ? Nov 21, 2007 19:52 |
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My sister-in-law's '95M had a waterpump fail, so they did that and the timing belt at the same time. Cost about $600 all told from a shop.
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# ? Nov 21, 2007 23:34 |
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What would cause a rough idle out of nowhere? It used to just be silent at like 800rpm, now it sits and drops to like 600 and the car rumbles like one of those vibrating mattresses.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 01:07 |
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Phone posted:What would cause a rough idle out of nowhere? It used to just be silent at like 800rpm, now it sits and drops to like 600 and the car rumbles like one of those vibrating mattresses. I had that happen and it was just in need of a new air filter.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 03:11 |
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Phone posted:What would cause a rough idle out of nowhere? It used to just be silent at like 800rpm, now it sits and drops to like 600 and the car rumbles like one of those vibrating mattresses. Could be the air flow meter, the spring that controls the "door" inside it wears out over time. Or it could be the plug wires, when is the last time you replaced them?
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 04:12 |
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So... anyone have any suggestions for some first mod(s)? Perhaps in the $500 range or so? I really have no idea what to do first... Edit : Bone stock 03 LS
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 05:03 |
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Etrips posted:So... anyone have any suggestions for some first mod(s)? Perhaps in the $500 range or so? I really have no idea what to do first... Just get a good set of tires, that's the best thing you can do for your Miata. Falken Azenis are an excellent tire for the price. There's nothing you can really do for the motor for $500 that's going to be worth it. Maybe a header and/or exhaust, that's about it. Intakes are a waste of money. Get tires.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 05:15 |
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leica posted:Just get a good set of tires, that's the best thing you can do for your Miata. Falken Azenis are an excellent tire for the price. Decent shocks could be had for under 500$. Maybe a good more aggressive alignment will sharpen things up too.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 05:34 |
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Tires and a mroe aggressive alignment. Hands down. Your shocks should be fine on a 2003 car, unless it has a million billion miles on it.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 05:36 |
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To be honest, I'm satisfied with the power as of right now. Perhaps a little later down the line. As far as in tires, Im plannin on getting some snow tires up in the coming weeks since Im on the east coast (Virginia) where it snows a bit when it comes time. Guinness posted:Tires and a mroe aggressive alignment. Hands down. Car only has 20k miles On a side note, how much does it normally cost to pull a ding/dent out? Someone gartefully left me a quarter size ding on my door today while I was at work and its a drat eyesore.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 06:11 |
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leica posted:Just get a good set of tires, that's the best thing you can do for your Miata. Falken Azenis are an excellent tire for the price. i dont know if the NB is different, but the intake is a MUCH bigger improvement i've dyno'd my car with a racing beat intake, and a catback, and with a stock exhaust. one horsepower difference. the intake was good for about 5-6whp. stock 1.8's tend to get 103, i got 109 and 108
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 06:45 |
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Dicker posted:i dont know if the NB is different, but the intake is a MUCH bigger improvement Dremel a hole in your firewall and run a ShopVac hose from the airbox to the trough below the windscreen wipers and see the same gains.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 10:28 |
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leica posted:Could be the air flow meter, the spring that controls the "door" inside it wears out over time. Or it could be the plug wires, when is the last time you replaced them? The wires look fairly new. I bought it with 71k on the clock back in April and it's sitting at 80k right now (jesus i drive lot D: ).
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 13:55 |
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Phone posted:The wires look fairly new. I bought it with 71k on the clock back in April and it's sitting at 80k right now (jesus i drive lot D: ). It doesn't matter if they look new. Miatas are notorious for deteriorating plug wires, and you can't tell by looking at them. If I were you I'd order a set of NGK blues, it's only 35 bucks. It more than likely will solve the problem. If not, at least you have eliminated a possibility and you'll know how old the wires are.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 14:58 |
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Ziploc posted:Decent shocks could be had for under 500$. Maybe a good more aggressive alignment will sharpen things up too. Shocks would be a waste of money on an '03 when you could spend the money on good tires and alignment. And I stand by my statement of intakes being a waste of money. The only worthwhile intake mod is the Randall cowl intake duct, but like Savington stated you can make one yourself for next to nothing.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 15:06 |
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leica posted:It doesn't matter if they look new. Miatas are notorious for deteriorating plug wires, and you can't tell by looking at them. If I were you I'd order a set of NGK blues, it's only 35 bucks. It more than likely will solve the problem. If not, at least you have eliminated a possibility and you'll know how old the wires are. If you can do simple soldering, you can use Corolla coil on plugs and never have to replace another set of plug wires. Even without the (possible) benefits of hotter spark, the COPs will pay for themselves within two or three wire change intervals.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 19:46 |
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leica posted:It doesn't matter if they look new. Miatas are notorious for deteriorating plug wires, and you can't tell by looking at them. If I were you I'd order a set of NGK blues, it's only 35 bucks. It more than likely will solve the problem. If not, at least you have eliminated a possibility and you'll know how old the wires are. I honestly want to say that the wires were done at 60k because my wires are blue. Appreciate the help, though.
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 21:05 |
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That diagram for Aux-in wasn't for my radio. Anybody have diagrams for the CN200 connector? I only came across some site that was taken over by squatters (sponsored by Amazon.com).
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# ? Nov 22, 2007 22:47 |
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Black Friday netted 450 dollars of my money in limbo (should get it back by Tuesday), but I actually managed to do something useful with my time. With the power of the Way Back Machine and years of robotics in high school, I present to you... blue LEDs!
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# ? Nov 24, 2007 04:27 |
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Phone posted:Blue LEDs! What is it? Just extra interior lighting?
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# ? Nov 24, 2007 22:48 |
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i hope there are some underneath the car for the madd tyte ufo look
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# ? Nov 24, 2007 22:57 |
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That LINE on the headunit shouldn't be there. I have the Bose-esque radio which doesn't have the circle DIN on the back, so I had to patch into the tape connector. In the cubby, there's a switch, and when it's on, the radio immediately goes to LINE and receives input from the 1/8" inch miniplug and the blue LED shines.
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# ? Nov 24, 2007 22:57 |
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I've found a deal on a 92 miata locally that I cant pass up, the guy curbed the car pretty hard apparently getting on the interstate. It needs driverside control arm and tie rod. Where would be the best place to get these parts and any idea how much it would run me? What else could this guy have jacked up if he hit a curb hard enough to bend the control arm?
streetlamp fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Nov 28, 2007 |
# ? Nov 28, 2007 01:08 |
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streetlamp posted:What else could this guy have jacked up if he hit a curb hard enough to bend the control arm? The frame, and also other parts which won't fail right away but will mysteriously falter one by one. I'd stay away.
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# ? Nov 28, 2007 02:06 |
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Amir posted:The frame, and also other parts which won't fail right away but will mysteriously falter one by one. I'd stay away. http://richmond.craigslist.org/car/491427121.html When talking to him though he kept mentioning how much I could make by parting it out which Im not arguing but Im buying the drat thing to drive not get rid of. Hopefully I can go get a look at it in the next few days to see how bad all of this is. Ive been looking for a miata fixer upper for a while now so this really caught my attention. I would be using it for autox and just a daily beater. I've honestly never dealt with a car with any real damage such as this so I figured it would be best to ask before I end up getting something that costs me way more then I anticipated. Any idea where I could get the control arms from?
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# ? Nov 28, 2007 02:19 |
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streetlamp posted:
Going to go with Amir here and say to stay away. Hes trying to push a sale for a reason.
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# ? Nov 28, 2007 02:24 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 04:53 |
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So a bolt or something came loose in my engine bay, it held together the power steering fluid. Said fluid leaked everywhere and my steering went really stiff, I called the RAC out and they filled it back up and advised me to have the engine bay steam cleaned. Car has done 60k and is due a cambelt I believe, so would you guys suggest a cambelt and waterpump change as well as a steam clean and general service?
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# ? Nov 28, 2007 02:36 |