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destructo posted:
That is so old-school lookingly awesome More realistically, would you guys rather go SD input or USB input? I have a couple of data sticks on my key ring, which makes USB convenient- I don't want to think about loving with SD cards when I'm driving. The storage capacity to price is about the same, isn't it?
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Dec 8, 2007 00:26
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:35 |
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SD would be cleaner looking most likely and with the sizes you can get SD in now, I doubt you would be changing cards often.
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Dec 8, 2007 00:31
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Okay. So my car's not doing so great lately and I'm thinking about doing a small upgrade to another Mazda with far lower mileage. I currently have my eye on a dark green '96 Miata with a hardtop that has only 73,000km (~45,000miles for the US posters) on the clock, it also doesn't appear to have any real power options from the pictures and information I do have on it, so it's probably just a barebones car. It's 9,995 bucks CND. However, it's in another city three hours away and I'm unable to take a look at it. I'm not sure if I'd pull the trigger on this but there are a few things I'd like to find out from Miata owners first. - Is this a reasonable price for a Miata in good shape for that mileage? Keep in mind, it has a hardtop which would be mandatory for a Miata purchase for me. - How does it handle in snow and ice assuming good winter tires? My current car is an MX-3 with the best winter tires you can get and it still handles like rear end (poor weight distribution, aerodynamics) This is the make or break thing for me as I more or less exclusively do highway driving to and from work every day. The local highways around here are -awful- and the roads freeze, meaning more or less a constant two tire track of black ice. Everywhere. It has to handle well. - How does it handle under strong winds? Besides living in a winter HELL for 8 months of the year, it also happens to be a prairie winter hell with strong winds at all times. - How well does it heat up and stay warm? I assume it's better with the hardtop, but temperatures routinely go down to like -30 with the wind chill and I need a car that's not a loving pussy in heat distribution. My current car is, and I'm sorta tired of being rear end frozen in my own car. That's all I got for now 
Naky fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Dec 8, 2007 |
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Dec 8, 2007 01:48
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I can answer two of your questions. 1. A hard top is worth about a grand in good condition, so keep that in mind. I'm not quite sure what the Canadian market is like, but if your new car prices have any bearing on it, $9k might not be that unreasonable. Try and find some ended auctions on eBay in your area or something, those are usually a good measure of real market value 2. It heats up well, since the cabin is obviously only for two people (quite spacey though). You'd probably want a hardtop with the defroster as well.
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Dec 8, 2007 02:06
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PeterWeller posted:Ahh, so it's "Valvestate." hahahah. I've been on and off looking at Miatas, I might decide to get one instead of a 323GTX.
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Dec 8, 2007 02:15
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Am I alone in thinking this is cool as poo poo?    It's a 93 which makes it an NA? I'm not a Miata expert. It's got some kind of widearch kit, headlights from a Z3, I have no idea where the hood or entire rear light assembly came from though, and it's running a Garrett turbo at 0.5 bar. I really want it, and would buy it if I had the cash and wasn't leaving the country in the new year. It's in the UK. edit: I like the headlight transplant because it's not actually trying to look like a Z3, as most ricer headlight transplants seem to do, and end up looking like a cheap crappy ripoff of the donor car. It looks like something else entirely. Reminds me of a Toyota Chaser. edit2: Further research reveals the headlights are actually from a Chaser and not a Z3 at all. Dies fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Dec 8, 2007 |
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Dec 8, 2007 02:25
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Other than the bumpers and side skirting, I don't believe he has a body kit on there - those fenders and quarter panels were hand sculpted with no doubt a poo poo load of fibreglass to create those modern wide wheel well edges, reshape the trunk with that BMW look, and reshape the front/rear light housings. A lot of time and effort went into that car and it actually turned out really nicely. Well, at these angles anyway. I wonder how many redos they had to do to get it perfect though... probably not too many considering the skill you'd need to have to do good quality custom work like that.
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Dec 8, 2007 02:39
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Dies posted:Am I alone in thinking this is cool as poo poo? Yes.
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Dec 8, 2007 03:10
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 I maintain that the only acceptable body kit on a Miata is the Pitcrew conversion.
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Dec 8, 2007 03:26
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Blech. They're both awful, in my opinion.
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Dec 8, 2007 03:33
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destructo posted:
The Pitcrew is fantastic but it really needs a chunky splitter under the front nosecone to make it work well.   And fender flares. (check out the tofu delivery madd wide track  )
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Dec 8, 2007 03:42
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It looks like a Miata raped a Karmann Ghia and had a Downs child The only acceptable body kit is the giant fender flared one
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Dec 8, 2007 04:16
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Schwack posted:Blech. They're both awful, in my opinion.  
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Dec 8, 2007 04:19
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Hagetaka posted:The only acceptable body kit is the giant fender flared one
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Dec 8, 2007 04:33
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destructo posted:
Where can I get the windshield wiper?  It's so awesome I'd even pay delivery from the US or Japan...
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Dec 8, 2007 04:37
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destructo posted:
 I've always hated that conversion. Why in god's name did they have to put the lights out in the front? Not enough room in the fenders, maybe? If they had done something more Spider Veloce style, I'd be the first in line.
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Dec 8, 2007 04:54
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destructo posted:It all makes sense when you see the rear end Jesus, no kidding about the Karmann-Ghia rape. It's even got the same badges.
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Dec 8, 2007 06:00
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destructo posted:
It looks like it has really pointy tits. Holy dogshit is that thing ugly
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Dec 8, 2007 06:48
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iwentdoodie posted:It looks like it has really pointy tits. 
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Dec 8, 2007 09:40
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Well, my mom can't loving drive on snow and she backed into my 94 and hosed up the driver's side door and front quarterpanel. As a result, she's agreed to pay for new panels for the whole car (because she's awesome). How lame would it be for me to get it painted Competition Yellow Mica when these panels go on? I love that color, but Miatas never came in it.
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Dec 8, 2007 16:28
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Ok I need help. Would I be less of a man if I bought a purple (95M) miata? The last one I was looking at got sold out from underneath me (again) and this one is in town with only 47k on it.
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Dec 8, 2007 20:59
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Schwack posted:Ok I need help. Would I be less of a man if I bought a purple (95M) miata? The last one I was looking at got sold out from underneath me (again) and this one is in town with only 47k on it. 95M's are 'Merlot' which is actually a metallic maroon color. Unless someone repainted it, which would be considered blasphemy in the miata world. I would avoid it if it was painted a different color. Do you have pics of it?
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Dec 8, 2007 21:09
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leica posted:95M's are 'Merlot' which is actually a metallic maroon color. Unless someone repainted it, which would be considered blasphemy in the miata world. I would avoid it if it was painted a different color. http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/500954257.html Hehe, I know its Merlot, but I guess I need to see it in person. I think hes asking too much though, how about you?
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Dec 8, 2007 21:15
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Schwack posted:http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/500954257.html GO BUY IT IMMEDIATELY BEFORE IT'S GONE It's worth a good amount more than what he's asking. I sold my 95M with more miles for 10k. It had a hard top, but that was about $1200 of it, so figure around 9k without a hardtop. Run, don't walk to the bank, get some money and buy it. The wheels alone are worth almost 2k. The 95M is the most sought after Miata made besides the 93LE.
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Dec 8, 2007 21:21
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Ok well I went to see it, and really there are only three problems: 1. Small section of clear peeling inside the gas filler well. Im not sure how to repair this, but its pretty damned small. 2. Clutch squeaks when depressed/let out. Sounds like its coming from the pedal, but I could be wrong. 3. The rear window is fogged. Needs replacement. 4. JUST REMEMBERED. Theres a bit of a whining/groaning from the blower motor when it's turned on. Would $6000 be a fair offer? Schwack fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Dec 8, 2007 |
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Dec 8, 2007 22:55
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Schwack posted:Would $6000 be a fair offer? Yes. The issues it has are minor. If the guy takes the offer, consider yourself a lucky bastard.
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Dec 8, 2007 23:53
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thats a good deal for a nice car. if you want to fix the clearcoat peeling in a little spot under the gas lid, just use some spraypaint can clear over it, problem solved.
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Dec 9, 2007 03:01
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I figured I'd post here instead of making a new thread. If the replies are limited, I'll have to make a new one. Model: Mazda Miata Year: 1999 Mileage: 74,600 Transmission: Manual standard Driving Style: Normal, Non-Aggressive (Occasional drop to 3rd or 4th to speed up for a pass or something, but not very often) Car Knowledge: Limited Problem: Over the past few days I've noticed that the resistance on my clutch has been very weak. It seems to have just happened one day, instead of gradually getting weaker. Basically before when I pressed in the clutch, I had a good deal of resistance like there was a spring pushing back. Now when I press it in, it feels very weak and "limp noodle" like. I've also noticed that because of this, I've had a few rare occasions of not being able to put the car in gear. I've had to release the clutch, press it back in, and do that a few times to get the car in gear. What is causing this? How expensive of a repair am I looking at? How much longer can I drive like this before my car leaves me stranded somewhere?
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Dec 9, 2007 04:15
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soulescape posted:I figured I'd post here instead of making a new thread. If the replies are limited, I'll have to make a new one. Either your clutch slave cylinder or your clutch master cylinder is leaking fluid. 1. Check the clutch reservoir. Under the hood, it's the small plastic container at the far left corner, next to the back of the engine bay. Black cap about 1.5" diameter. If it's empty, or nearly empty, fill it up. It isn't the big brake master cylinder reservoir; it's the smaller one that's further to the left. 2. Grab a flashlight and kneel down next to the passenger tire. Shine the light between the tire and the fender so the fender is on your left, tire on your right. It's a bit hard to see, but bolted to your transmission is the clutch slave cylinder. If it is drenched in fluid, it is leaking and it needs to be replaced. It's like a $50 part and the repair takes 20 minutes. Pick it up from Rosenthal Mazda in Virginia; they'll be cheaper than your local dealer, if you can wait for it to be shipped. 3. If it is NOT drenched in fluid, your master cylinder is probably the culprit. I don't know exactly where this is on the car, but it doesn't matter because they leak internally so you won't see any fluid seepage. The fluid will just sort of disappear. 
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Dec 9, 2007 04:53
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Clutch hydraulic failure won't leave you stranded, technically. My slave cylinder failed the other evening in rush hour traffic, so I drove the last 15 miles shifting clutchlessly, and idling in 1st towards red lights trying not to stop. If you stop, you'll need to turn off the car, push the clutch pedal in (for the start lockout), put the car in 1st gear, and start the car with about half throttle. You'll either bog or get wheelspin, but you'll be moving. This will be the second slave cylinder I've purchased. The last one lasted about twenty thousand miles. They're a pretty common failure on the Miata. Savington posted:
You don't know where the master cylinder is? The one attached through the firewall to the clutch pedal, right next to the brake master cylinder? 
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Dec 9, 2007 19:25
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OK, so now where to go for a new zipper piece of the top? I want to get a glass rear window with the tan top and will spend more for better quality. Whats my best bet? (95M)
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Dec 10, 2007 07:52
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vex posted:You don't know where the master cylinder is? The one attached through the firewall to the clutch pedal, right next to the brake master cylinder? That is correct. I have removed the engine, taken apart most of the dashboard, removed the air conditioning, installed a rollbar, replaced the shocks, springs, both rollbars, replaced all 4 pads and rotors at least twice and the front pads 4 times now, and fabricated and installed my own turbocharger setup, as well as my own oil cooler, and I have never actually taken serious notice of the clutch master cylinder. 
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Dec 10, 2007 09:54
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Savington posted:That is correct. I have removed the engine, taken apart most of the dashboard, removed the air conditioning, installed a rollbar, replaced the shocks, springs, both rollbars, replaced all 4 pads and rotors at least twice and the front pads 4 times now, and fabricated and installed my own turbocharger setup, as well as my own oil cooler, and I have never actually taken serious notice of the clutch master cylinder.
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Dec 10, 2007 12:12
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Schwack posted:OK, so now where to go for a new zipper piece of the top? I want to get a glass rear window with the tan top and will spend more for better quality. Whats my best bet? (95M) So did you get the 95M? Don't bother with glass unless you're doing a NB top swap (NB tops are glass only anyway). When you lower/raise the top on an NA, you have to unzip/zip the rear window first and a glass window makes it a pain in the rear end because the glass is heavy and awkward when trying to zip it up (compared to plastic). The NB top does not require messing with the window, and goes down and up in one motion. It may not seem like a big deal, but after dealing with the top enough, the NB top makes it seem ten times better. Not to mention, lots of people have issues with glass windows because the weight of the glass tends to rip out the stitches of the zipper over time. My mother in law had this issue and just got a new top with a plastic window, and now she doesn't have a hard time with it anymore. IMO, if you are just getting the window replaced I would go with plastic. If you want to replace the top, do an NB swap, you can do it yourself (it's super easy) and there's nothing better than OEM top quality, even slightly used.
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Dec 10, 2007 13:52
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leica posted:So did you get the 95M? For what it's worth, I have a glass window on my NA, and aside from it being far too small to see anything out of, I love it.
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Dec 10, 2007 15:32
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So to go with the NB top I need to replace the whole shebang? How much does that usually cost?
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Dec 10, 2007 16:48
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Schwack posted:So to go with the NB top I need to replace the whole shebang? How much does that usually cost? About $600, plus installation (you might be able to do it yourself with thorough instructions and a helper)
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Dec 10, 2007 18:11
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Amir posted:About $600, plus installation (you might be able to do it yourself with thorough instructions and a helper)
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Dec 10, 2007 18:43
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I was looking at just buying this: http://store.miataparts.org/robsunclotto.html along with the harness and switch the total comes to about $800. I figure I could probably do the install myself with some help, unless someone says otherwise. edit: I guess Im confused, would it make more sense to just buy a whole new NB top from a Mazda dealership?
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Dec 10, 2007 18:45
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Ooh, that's tempting. My wife pointed out that the top on our '99 is developing pinholes around the glass.  That said, I loathe the idea of putting a new top on the old frame, just from the pain-in-the-rear end aspect of it. We're seriously considering just getting a hardtop for it since the bodyshop that keeps putting my sister-in-law's '95M back together would be able to repaint any top we get for cheap...and walking out of the mall yesterday afternoon, not three cars away from ours was another silver early NB, but with a hardtop on it. For a second we were hoping the hardtop fairy had been kind to us  Of course, if we get fresh paint on the top, we'd be getting the front and rear touched up as well. Both have some scuffs and paint chips from the previous owners being lovely drivers. And the outside mirror covers would need a touchup too since both have decided to start flaking. Also, it looks pretty simple, but how hard is it to swap the accessory belts out? I suspect both are original and one is squealing / smelling of burnt rubber. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Dec 10, 2007 |
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Dec 10, 2007 18:55
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