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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
It's running on Azenis, which are fairly grippy, so you had to have really done some unsavory things while steering. Or just going way too fast.

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Luxmore
Jun 5, 2001
Well I picked up my Miata yesterday from the garage, after being off the road since mid-November when it was rear-ended by some retard in his pimped-out Altima. It seems to be doing all right so far, and I got a new paint job out of it, so I guess it wasn't all bad.

Although I wish they'd left the stupid Mazda "toilet seat" logo off the front bumper when they replaced it :ssj:

Coolnezzz posted:

My first drive of a modified 2002 LE resulted in power oversteer into a guardrail.

chem42 posted:

effortless powerslides.
No kidding.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5
Why does it only have the FM bar in the rear?

Thats a good recipe for oversteer if I remember.

Back it up Terry
Nov 20, 2006

I am looking at a 1996 Miata. They are asking $4650. It has 100,000 miles on it. It looks like it needs a new top. The headlight motor and windshield are broken, and they are willing to replace it. The AIR BAG light is also on, and stays on. How much would it be to fix the air bag? Is this a good deal?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

compton rear end terry posted:

I am looking at a 1996 Miata. They are asking $4650. It has 100,000 miles on it. It looks like it needs a new top. The headlight motor and windshield are broken, and they are willing to replace it. The AIR BAG light is also on, and stays on. How much would it be to fix the air bag? Is this a good deal?

That might be a good deal if nothing was broken (depending on the market, but still). I got my 1990 with 69k miles+hardtop in pristine condition for slightly more than that.

Gear Head
Aug 18, 2005
Ask me about the normal profile of a rape victim! The normal profile of a rape victim! The normal profile of a RAPE victim! THE NORMAL PROFILE OF A RAPE VICTIM! NORMAL PROFILE! RAPE VICTIM! NORMAL PROFILE! RAPE VICTIM!

(I only rape women under 30 though!)

compton rear end terry posted:

I am looking at a 1996 Miata. They are asking $4650. It has 100,000 miles on it. It looks like it needs a new top. The headlight motor and windshield are broken, and they are willing to replace it. The AIR BAG light is also on, and stays on. How much would it be to fix the air bag? Is this a good deal?

A new top can cost as much as $800 installed.

At 100k miles it's not a very good deal.

Schwack
Jan 31, 2003

Someone needs to stop this! Sherman has lost his mind! Peyton is completely unable to defend himself out there!

compton rear end terry posted:

I am looking at a 1996 Miata. They are asking $4650. It has 100,000 miles on it. It looks like it needs a new top. The headlight motor and windshield are broken, and they are willing to replace it. The AIR BAG light is also on, and stays on. How much would it be to fix the air bag? Is this a good deal?

That sounds like a terrible deal. I just bought my 95M with 49k on it for $6400 last month. All it needed was a new top because of a clouded rear window. Honestly, I'd pass on it with all those issues at that price.

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh

Luxmore posted:

Well I picked up my Miata yesterday from the garage, after being off the road since mid-November when it was rear-ended by some retard in his pimped-out Altima. It seems to be doing all right so far, and I got a new paint job out of it, so I guess it wasn't all bad.

Although I wish they'd left the stupid Mazda "toilet seat" logo off the front bumper when they replaced it :ssj:


No kidding.

I love the old Mazda logo. I think it's unique and not a lot of people recognize it which is neat.

BusinessWallet
Sep 13, 2005
Today has been the most perfect day I have ever seen

Coolnezzz posted:

You all have permission to come lynch me if you want:





My first drive of a modified 2002 LE resulted in power oversteer into a guardrail. It's the fastest car I've ever driven and I guess I was used to my piece of junk Isuzu that can be thrown around turns at full throttle and never break loose.

Hopefully the bumpers wont be too expensive to replace, I fully intend to return it to it's original shape and hopefully condition, then learn to not drive like a loving jackass.

There is no way that you could drive your isuzu harder than a miata. lol.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Gear Head posted:

A new top can cost as much as $800 installed.

As much? More like at least. When I was getting top install quotes, the going rate was $500+ just for the labor. If you bought a top through the shop (don't do this) you'd be looking at least $1100 all said and done.

It ran me $950 to buy my own Robbins top and get it installed, and that was on the cheaper end of the spectrum.

Schwack
Jan 31, 2003

Someone needs to stop this! Sherman has lost his mind! Peyton is completely unable to defend himself out there!

Guinness posted:

As much? More like at least. When I was getting top install quotes, the going rate was $500+ just for the labor. If you bought a top through the shop (don't do this) you'd be looking at least $1100 all said and done.

It ran me $950 to buy my own Robbins top and get it installed, and that was on the cheaper end of the spectrum.

Just do it yourself, like a real man. Although, theres a good chance you will feel like less of a man midway through the install. Unless you do the NB top install, which I hear is easier.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Schwack posted:

Just do it yourself, like a real man. Although, theres a good chance you will feel like less of a man midway through the install. Unless you do the NB top install, which I hear is easier.

Finding a great condition NB top would have been much more hassle and not much cheaper than the Robbins no-zip glass top I bought (a smidge over $400 shipped). I also needed to have it replaced ASAP, as my old top had been cut.

And some thing are just worth paying other people to do. I would have invariably spent the whole weekend trying to fight with the top (that requires a bit of retrofitting and such) and I'd undoubtedly get stuck on stupid little things multiple times.

Instead, now I have (had, 6 months ago) a brand new glass window top that is every bit as nice as an OEM and was installed and fitted perfectly by someone who has installed hundreds of tops before.

If you really want to do it yourself, then by all means go ahead. But for me, I'd rather avoid that headache and pay a professional for that job.

Schwack
Jan 31, 2003

Someone needs to stop this! Sherman has lost his mind! Peyton is completely unable to defend himself out there!
Haha, in retrospect I probably would have rather had someone install it. I did the Robbins no-zip glass window top install myself on a literally freezing cold night. It was probably the worst car modification/install I've ever had to do. Part of that was the cold, part of it was doing it myself, and part of it was Robbins workmanship (mostly mispunched holes). In the end though, I got it installed in around 7 hours work and it fits perfectly with no leaks :)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





There's a guy locally who advertises doing Miata top installations for $150. If I can get photos of his prior work I may take him up on both my sister-in-law's '95M (rear window is toast) and our '99 (rips in the corners) with some Robbins tops.

Luxmore
Jun 5, 2001

mobn posted:

I love the old Mazda logo. I think it's unique and not a lot of people recognize it which is neat.
No the old Mazda logo is neat:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I swear I'm becoming neurotic with this new Miata and the noises that are coming from it. :smith:

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh

Luxmore posted:

No the old Mazda logo is neat:

They're all great. I'd love to have a couple loose copies of each of their badge designs, including all that random Eunos stuff and individual model badges.

GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY
Sep 2, 2004

by Fistgrrl

Phone posted:

I swear I'm becoming neurotic with this new Miata and the noises that are coming from it. :smith:

If my Miata taught me anything it's the fact that not all noises are bad!

amadeo
Oct 3, 2005

Refused Are Fucking Dead
I replaced the top on my 91 with a Robbins top with a glass rear window. It took me about two days of work with me and my wife, and a lot more tools than I had ready access to. The top ran something like 500, and I wasn't about to pay the extra 300 a shop would have charged.

I'd say that price is about fair. I grabbed a '96 M Edition for $4000 even. It had 140k on it, but I have all the maintenance records and it was kept up by an older enthusiast. And he recently replaced the clutch and top. It's the most beautiful car I've owned, and it runs like new. I think I got a steal on it. I was really looking to spend $7000 on a car that wasn't quite up to the par this one is.

Buddha.
Sep 24, 2007

"Have compassion for all beings, rich and poor alike; each has their suffering. Some suffer too much, others too little."
College Slice

Phone posted:

I swear I'm becoming neurotic with this new Miata and the noises that are coming from it. :smith:

That's unfortunately what comes with owning a roadster like the miata.

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh
I'm beginning to suspect that my Miata is in need of an alignment. It's been dancing around all over the place lately. What are some good settings that are a decent compromise between handling and tire wear?

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

Luxmore posted:

No the old Mazda logo is neat:

What the hell is this for? Its huge!

Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.

mobn posted:

I'm beginning to suspect that my Miata is in need of an alignment. It's been dancing around all over the place lately. What are some good settings that are a decent compromise between handling and tire wear?

Mostly highway:

-Max front caster (equal on both sides, i.e. if left can get 4.5° and right can get 5.2°, make both sides 4.5°)
-1° front camber
-1.5° rear camber
-0 front toe
-1/32" total rear toe in

For more aggressive driving, add .3° of camber front and rear, and run the front caster at 3.5°. For even more aggressive, add 1/16" total front toe out, but it will take a toll on the front tire wear.

Luxmore
Jun 5, 2001

Ziploc posted:

What the hell is this for? Its huge!
I think it's for an old Mazda van or something.

Gear Head
Aug 18, 2005
Ask me about the normal profile of a rape victim! The normal profile of a rape victim! The normal profile of a RAPE victim! THE NORMAL PROFILE OF A RAPE VICTIM! NORMAL PROFILE! RAPE VICTIM! NORMAL PROFILE! RAPE VICTIM!

(I only rape women under 30 though!)
What's the difference if any between a Robbins top and one like this one off ebay or this one off a website?

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Gear Head posted:

What's the difference if any between a Robbins top and one like this one off ebay or this one off a website?

You get what you pay for when it comes to tops. If you get an ebay special, don't be surprised if you need another one in a few years. OEM is the best you can get, and even a used OEM top will last longer and fit better than a majority of the aftermarket tops out there.

Luxmore
Jun 5, 2001
So, my previously slightly-stiff driver's side window seems to now be a whole lot more stiff and is making crunching noises when I try to wind it down. I assume the window has taken a vacation from its track.

Any advice on fixing this myself? I don't want to wheel this thing back into the dealership if I don't absolutely need to.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma

butt terrarium posted:

That's unfortunately what comes with owning a roadster like the miata.

Wait what? I love my miata because of the exact opposite, when compared with expensive higher strung cars like my old one where every noise means £1000 bill, the same would cost for a whole new engine in a Miata, and a weird noise normally doesn't meant anything anyway!

amadeo
Oct 3, 2005

Refused Are Fucking Dead
Speaking of windows, my '96 has power windows. They go down very, very slowly. Is this normal, or do I need to replace the motor or something? I've never driven a Miata with power windows before this one, but they can take a long time to get up or down. And when I roll them both down at the same time, they can take even longer - probably around 20+ seconds for both windows to go all the way down together. Any advice? I don't imagine that this is normal.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

butt terrarium posted:

That's unfortunately what comes with owning a roadster like the miata.

Well, considering that Miata Take 2's heater hose blew within 80 miles and under a day of owning it, I'm really on edge.

However, it was raining the other day when I got off of work, and I pulled into the bigger/more open part of the parking lot, locked the wheel and tapped the gas... to say the least, I was thoroughly amused. None of this chronic understeer poo poo from an open diff. :unsmith:

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Phone posted:

Well, considering that Miata Take 2's heater hose blew within 80 miles and under a day of owning it, I'm really on edge.

However, it was raining the other day when I got off of work, and I pulled into the bigger/more open part of the parking lot, locked the wheel and tapped the gas... to say the least, I was thoroughly amused. None of this chronic understeer poo poo from an open diff. :unsmith:

The Torsen LSD is such a great differential. I'm so so glad that Mazda didn't cheap out and only offer open diffs (or continue to offer only crappy viscous LSDs) like so many manufacturers seem to do today ( Non-M BMWs and Porsche Boxster/Cayman :argh: ). The difference in feel when hard driving in a Torsen equipped Miata versus an open-diff equipped Miata is pretty noticeable, especially when doing parking lot shenanigans. :)

And yeah, my car makes all sorts of noises. Without any real sound deadening you hear EVERYTHING, for better or for worse. It is a little unnerving at first, but you get used to it. It's quite the raw experience.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Most of the noises are new, and in the back of my mind catastrophic engine failure is just looming around the corner at every possible minute. I know I'm being a paranoid little bitch, but poo poo tends to roll downhill. Example: Got the hardtop finally secured properly on the new Miata, and that evening, my radio refused to work. Next day, the radio worked fine. It's a loving voodoo car, I swear.

I've been trying to take it easy on this one since its running on some low-tread Dunlops and the alignment is out of whack. I look forward to getting my Azenis on it as well as a good alignment since this one came with Koni yellows. Negative camber, here I come. :dance: .... as soon as I get the money for it. :smith:

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh

amadeo posted:

Speaking of windows, my '96 has power windows. They go down very, very slowly. Is this normal, or do I need to replace the motor or something? I've never driven a Miata with power windows before this one, but they can take a long time to get up or down. And when I roll them both down at the same time, they can take even longer - probably around 20+ seconds for both windows to go all the way down together. Any advice? I don't imagine that this is normal.

Mine do this when it's extremely cold. If it doesn't get better come warm weather, you may need to clean the contacts on the switch or lubricate the window.

amadeo
Oct 3, 2005

Refused Are Fucking Dead
By cold do you mean below 60? Because that's about as bad as it gets here. So I guess I'll go ahead and look into doing those things. Thanks for the advice.

Edit: Also, I bought my Miata with a Momo "Corse" steering wheel on it. It completely obscures my view of the instrument cluster. Anyone have any experience with aftermarket wheels on NAs? Specifically detachable steering wheels, if they're available. (I live in San Diego - violent crime is low, car theft is high.) But, basically, the last thing I want to do is order a new wheel off the internet and have it still obscure the view of my speedometer.

amadeo fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Feb 5, 2008

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

I haven't had a chance to read all this thread yet, only halfway through. BUT, how the hell are you 6+ footers fitting in these drat cars? I went to find a NB yesterday to sit in at a couple of dealerships. They all jerked me around because I guess I don't look like a serious car buyer. I finally got frustrated and went to a Mazda dealership to see if they had any older NB's in stock.

When I got there of course they didn't have any. I still decided to take the opportunity to sit in an NC even though I know they are a lot roomier inside than an NB. Now I'm only 5'10" on the best of days and I had the seat all the way back and leaned back as far as it would go. If I slouched in the seat I was okay but I sat up straight I was in the roof. This was a soft top also.

Is there really that much room to be gain with a NB and foamectomy? Does anyone here have aftermarket seats in their car? Does it give you a lot more room? I admit I'm a fat fucker but I have room around the steering wheel and all the other places being a fat fucker would cause problems. I just can't believe how hard my head is in the roof of this thing.

If only 240's were not impossible to find.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
If you're 5'10 you really shouldn't have any problem at all.

I'm 6'0 and only touch my head to the roof if I sit up all the way straight, a position no one would ever drive in. I keep the seat forward one notch from all the way back, which allows you to lean the seat back another inch or so. My standard driving position gives me at least a few inches of headroom. Being... wide... probably gives you an overall feeling of crampedness which you are projecting towards a feeling of limited headroom.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Apr 23, 2005
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Savington posted:

Mostly highway:

-Max front caster (equal on both sides, i.e. if left can get 4.5° and right can get 5.2°, make both sides 4.5°)
-1° front camber
-1.5° rear camber
-0 front toe
-1/32" total rear toe in

For more aggressive driving, add .3° of camber front and rear, and run the front caster at 3.5°. For even more aggressive, add 1/16" total front toe out, but it will take a toll on the front tire wear.

I do a similar alignment, but my caster is able to reach 7 degrees. I use -1.7 camber front, -2.2 rear, zero toe front and rear. I dont really like to add the toe out because it makes the car pretty darty if you are on mountain roads going 100+mph. Toe out is more for autocross situations IMO.

Coredump posted:

I haven't had a chance to read all this thread yet, only halfway through. BUT, how the hell are you 6+ footers fitting in these drat cars? I went to find a NB yesterday to sit in at a couple of dealerships. They all jerked me around because I guess I don't look like a serious car buyer. I finally got frustrated and went to a Mazda dealership to see if they had any older NB's in stock.

When I got there of course they didn't have any. I still decided to take the opportunity to sit in an NC even though I know they are a lot roomier inside than an NB. Now I'm only 5'10" on the best of days and I had the seat all the way back and leaned back as far as it would go. If I slouched in the seat I was okay but I sat up straight I was in the roof. This was a soft top also.

Is there really that much room to be gain with a NB and foamectomy? Does anyone here have aftermarket seats in their car? Does it give you a lot more room? I admit I'm a fat fucker but I have room around the steering wheel and all the other places being a fat fucker would cause problems. I just can't believe how hard my head is in the roof of this thing.

If only 240's were not impossible to find.

I have a 1999 NB and am 6'1" and not fat. Before I removed foam from the seat my head cleared the roof by about 1/2" and with a helmet I was touching the roof (very annoying btw). I removed foam from the bottom of the seat and now I fit with about 1/2" space when I am wearing the helmet (and it has never touched the roof, even when hitting bumps/etc). Without a helmet I am a good 1.5" below the roof.

If I were you, I would try to find someone in your area that has foam removed and see if they will let you sit in their cars before you think about buying one/etc. There are a ton of miata.net people that will probably let you do that.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Elysium posted:

If you're 5'10 you really shouldn't have any problem at all.

I'm 6'0 and only touch my head to the roof if I sit up all the way straight, a position no one would ever drive in. I keep the seat forward one notch from all the way back, which allows you to lean the seat back another inch or so. My standard driving position gives me at least a few inches of headroom. Being... wide... probably gives you an overall feeling of crampedness which you are projecting towards a feeling of limited headroom.

I don't get it. Maybe I grew since my last physical but I'm all of 5'10" on a good day and my head was IN that NC's roof. I had the spreader bars for the top resting on my scalp. I had to slouch to the point that I could tell it wouldn't be comfortable for a long drive before I could get out of the roof.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:


I have a 1999 NB and am 6'1" and not fat. Before I removed foam from the seat my head cleared the roof by about 1/2" and with a helmet I was touching the roof (very annoying btw). I removed foam from the bottom of the seat and now I fit with about 1/2" space when I am wearing the helmet (and it has never touched the roof, even when hitting bumps/etc). Without a helmet I am a good 1.5" below the roof.

If I were you, I would try to find someone in your area that has foam removed and see if they will let you sit in their cars before you think about buying one/etc. There are a ton of miata.net people that will probably let you do that.

I'll see what happens on Miata.net then. How friendly are they to new people just jumping in and saying "I need to sit in your car!"? I know a lot of automotive forums have a newbie area they make you post in 10 times or more.

User Error
Aug 31, 2006

Phone posted:

Most of the noises are new, and in the back of my mind catastrophic engine failure is just looming around the corner at every possible minute. I know I'm being a paranoid little bitch, but poo poo tends to roll downhill. Example: Got the hardtop finally secured properly on the new Miata, and that evening, my radio refused to work. Next day, the radio worked fine. It's a loving voodoo car, I swear.

I've been trying to take it easy on this one since its running on some low-tread Dunlops and the alignment is out of whack. I look forward to getting my Azenis on it as well as a good alignment since this one came with Koni yellows. Negative camber, here I come. :dance: .... as soon as I get the money for it. :smith:

Miata engines are pretty much unblowupable. Big forged rods, oil squirters, iron block, etc. It's a non-interferance motor (which is rare for a high strung DOHC motor) so even a timing belt failure is no biggie.

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Vitamin J
Aug 16, 2006

God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

chem42 posted:

Miata engines are pretty much unblowupable. Big forged rods, oil squirters, iron block, etc. It's a non-interferance motor (which is rare for a high strung DOHC motor) so even a timing belt failure is no biggie.
They are awesome motors. You can pull apart a 150k mile Miata motor, and still see the honing marks on the piston walls. 150k is just break in on these cars.

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