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Slopehead posted:Do to live in Texas and will you sell it to me without that $500 boost? Seriously, I am on a budget here and this Miata that I linked actually breaks it by close to $400. Not to poo poo on you buying a Miata or anything, but it sounds like you can't really afford to buy one. I understand buying on a budget and all, but a few hundred bucks isn't much and it could potentially get you a MUCH nicer car. Maybe you should wait a few more weeks or whatever to save up a bit more cash. Can you afford to do a full tune-up when you buy the car (plugs, wires, filters, fluids, maybe brakes)? That's at least $150 right there if you do it yourself with good parts/oils, and more if you pay a mechanic. What's going to happen when the clutch burns up, or the timing belt snaps, or the top leaks, all right after you buy the car? These are 10+ year old used cars with many miles and no warranty, and often with spotty, or zero, service history (The one you linked has none). Sure they're generally reliable cars, but they're still used cars. If you can't afford a couple hundred extra bucks, you're probably shopping beyond what you can actually afford to buy and properly upkeep. I know markets vary a lot, but at least in my area, a good condition Miata of any vintage is out of your price range. Any NA around me below $4500-5000 is almost guaranteed to come without any sort of history and likely has, or will soon develop, problems. Maybe you've accounted for all this and I'm just being an rear end in a top hat, but cars cost a good bit of money to keep up properly, and buying any used car is a gamble on what kind of maintenance issues you're going to run in to. An auction vehicle with no history at all is hardly what I would call a safe bet, either. Guinness fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Feb 12, 2008 |
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Feb 12, 2008 05:54
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Slopehead posted:I must be patient, there will be more. Perhaps JimmyJars will email me back soon. Exactly this. Don't just jump on the first used car you drive. I did this once with a car and a year down the road I really regretted not looking at more. There are lots of Miatas out there, so wait for the right one within your budget. Also, if you go a bit older you shouldnt have a hard time finding a decent car within your budget. Alot of the 1.6L NAs seem to be more in line with your price, at least this was the case when I was looking for a Miata two months back. Also, read the miata.net FAQs and what not. Edmunds is not always a great source of information. This is probably a good page for you: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5361/ Schwack fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Feb 12, 2008 |
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Feb 12, 2008 06:06
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Ignore these bastards and cave into your desires. Just don't, uh... expect to be welcomed when your heater hose bursts all over the header and your timing belt looks like swiss cheese the day after you buy it. 
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Feb 12, 2008 10:51
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You bunch are all correct. Guinness: Yes I have considered and priced for doing after purchase maintenance such as you mentioned including a new timing belt. Also, yes I know buying a used car is expensive but I am really not down with spending the $2K+ it will take to give my ancient Protege another few years of life. Schwack: All good advice. I do intend on being patient and not hurrying into anything. I am looking hard into the earlier models. If I continue to save I will likely be able to find an earlier model with service history and lower mileage no sweat. I went and looked at the car. I stayed up late last night researching used car buying practices and anything that could give me an edge in terms of what to look for. I looked at the car for a few minutes before going and getting the salesman so I wouldn't be distracted with his frantic chatter. First thing I noticed looking under the car was 1: Brakes were shot. Tires needed replacing. 2: Underbody panel right under the engine looked like the car had been backed up over a big pile of gravel, tearing it almost completely off. 3: EVERYTHING was coated in a thick, viscous coating of motor oil. 4: Almost no coolant, motor oil had metallic flecks, and the brake fluid was black. I got the salesman, pointed out all of these things and told him that he really should try and get that fixed before attempting to off it on some poor fool. He was predictably pissed and I walked off knowing that I just saved myself a goodly amount of cash. Oh well at least the drive out was really nice. Edit: JimmyJars emailed me back, whoop! MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Feb 13, 2008 |
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Feb 13, 2008 01:09
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Good job pointing out huge flaws in that car. Unfortunately you really can't see if the CAS o-ring was leaking oil; another problem spot. I would have picked up that silver NB Jimmyjars is selling if it was closer to NC and had an LSD. (more of the distance than anything, a torsen swap is relatively easy) Go for Jimmy's NB.
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Feb 13, 2008 01:25
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Slopehead posted:I looked at the car for a few minutes before going and getting the salesman so I wouldn't be distracted with his frantic chatter. First thing I noticed looking under the car was Good eye! A little bit of research and knowledge of things to look for goes a long way. In a way it disgusts me to know that they were trying to pawn off a car in that condition, but at the same time it warms my heart to hear that you rightfully told them to shove it up their rear end. With enough patience, the right car will come along. You'll know it when you see it.
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Feb 13, 2008 04:18
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MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2008 04:43
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Slopehead posted:Fake edit: Phone, what is an LSD, and why is a torson swap needed? It keeps power going to both rear wheels rather than just the one.
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Feb 13, 2008 04:49
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Slopehead posted:Maybe I can pick up an old Saturn instead. You need to buy Jimmyjar's car now. If you want a car that's fun and makes you feel happy when driving it, go for it. An LSD is a Limited Slip Differential. It applies torque to both wheels under load; to put it in terms that I can understand: its what makes donuts more than possible... it makes them out of love and semi-sweet chocolates. edit- krakkles 
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Feb 13, 2008 04:50
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But Slopehead, I pull around ~30mpg on the highway in my Miata and that's turning at well over 4k rpms the whole way! Come on, gas won't break you!
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Feb 13, 2008 04:50
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Slopehead posted:Thanks for the kind words guys. I had sincerely hoped that a bit of research would do me good. Jimmy Jars and I have been exchanging emails about his NB. We'll see how it turns out. In all reality I don't really need a small sports car. I need a boring, very reliable, extremely fuel efficient commuter car. In my current path of work I can easily expect to commute between 30-50+ miles one way and sadly, the Miata really doesn't have the fuel economy I absolutely need on my budget especially in the days of $3+/gal gasoline. Let me know if you changed your mind so I can go take the photos you want.
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Feb 13, 2008 04:51
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MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2008 05:08
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Slopehead posted:and why is a torson swap needed? For just regular road driving, it's far from a requirement. However when doing some hard driving or autox/track driving, it is a noticeable improvement. Even when attacking some twisty mountain roads, an open diff isn't going to ruin your fun. If all you're looking for out the Miata is a fun, reliable daily driver and/or weekend cruiser, then I wouldn't be too concerned about an LSD. Even if you end up getting into more performance oriented driving, a Torsen swap isn't especially difficult.
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Feb 13, 2008 05:08
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Guinness posted:For just regular road driving, it's far from a requirement. However when doing some hard driving or autox/track driving, it is a noticeable improvement. Even when attacking some twisty mountain roads, an open diff isn't going to ruin your fun. Hell, in normal driving the LSD can get pretty annoying, especially on snow, where the car gets all tail waggy the instant one wheel slips.
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Feb 13, 2008 09:36
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mobn posted:Hell, in normal driving the LSD can get pretty annoying, especially on snow, where the car gets all tail waggy the instant one wheel slips. My LSD is invisible in everyday driving, until I switch into rear end in a top hat mode, and then I want both wheels propelling me as quickly forward as possible.
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Feb 13, 2008 11:22
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I recently took my '96M for an oil change, being too lazy to do it myself. Turns out this is a good thing, because I'm not sure I'd notice the leak from my rear main seal. What kind of pricing am I looking at to get this replaced? I've been keeping a pretty good eye on my engine's conditions since I found out about the leak, but am unsure about the total spectrum of consequences. I've driven about a tank of gas and have consistently checked the oil, and it still appears full. How serious is this, given that fact? Mind you I'm not sure I can afford to get this fixed right away, and this is my daily driver. From what I understand, replacing the seal requires a lot more mechanic work than I'm experienced enough to deal with. All I've really done is change brake pads, set timing, change oil.. a couple other small items, nothing too intensive, and all with a Hanes manual guiding me. Unfortunately, that Hanes got nice and destroyed in an apartment fire a few months ago. Anyhow, am I wrong? Is this something an inexperienced but willing-to-learn mechanic should do on his own?
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Feb 13, 2008 11:23
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amadeo posted:I recently took my '96M for an oil change, being too lazy to do it myself. Turns out this is a good thing, because I'm not sure I'd notice the leak from my rear main seal. A leaking CAS o-ring is often mistaken for a rear main leak. Definatly check that out first. http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_seal.html http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html
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Feb 13, 2008 12:22
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Savington posted:My LSD is invisible in everyday driving, until I switch into rear end in a top hat mode, and then I want both wheels propelling me as quickly forward as possible. Where do you live? I'm in Wisconsin, and it's annoyingly obvious on slush and snow. Not so bad on ice though. On pavement, obviously the only indication of it being there is better handling, but winter conditions bring out the worst in the diff.
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Feb 13, 2008 13:37
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mobn posted:Where do you live? I'm in Wisconsin, and it's annoyingly obvious on slush and snow. Not so bad on ice though. On pavement, obviously the only indication of it being there is better handling, but winter conditions bring out the worst in the diff. Sunny California. I'm swapping a torsen in myself this summer after I turbo my car.
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Feb 13, 2008 18:17
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Having a torsen LSD is very smooth and it doesnt get intrusive in slow driving. My kaaz 1.5 way which made out of the bones of dead japanese race drivers is a bit more intrusive 
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Feb 13, 2008 18:54
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Given that this is the Miata megathread I'd like to ask if anyone else has heard this, or how reliable it should be considered? It seems interesting, and almost plausible considering they had a concept Coupe NB (pictured in the article). While it takes away from the roadster mantra that the Miata has always had, would it likely make a better "sports" car? Also this would take away the market from whatever the Kabura concept was intended to become. Leftlanenews posted:Mazda planning MX-5 coupe for the U.S.? Source EDIT: Another article with a photoshopped NC hardtop. pik_d fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Feb 13, 2008 |
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Feb 13, 2008 22:00
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Oh good, more weight for the NC  I do hope it boosts their sales some and maybe encourages more manufacturers to get in on this segment.
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Feb 13, 2008 22:45
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Schwack posted:Oh good, more weight for the NC
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Feb 13, 2008 22:55
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 NB coupe  Sigh, double post 
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Feb 13, 2008 23:00
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pik_d posted:While it takes away from the roadster mantra that the Miata has always had, would it likely make a better "sports" car?
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Feb 13, 2008 23:13
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That thing is pure sex. I absolutely love miatas in white.
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Feb 13, 2008 23:13
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Slopehead posted:That thing is pure sex. I absolutely love miatas in white. The curve of the trunk lid and the rear window look ugly as poo poo to me. Looking at it gives me a bad taste and that taste is called "Ford Taurus". Everything else looks excellent, but the rear seems like a drunken afterthought
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Feb 13, 2008 23:22
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Amir posted:The curve of the trunk lid and the rear window look ugly as poo poo to me. Looking at it gives me a bad taste and that taste is called "Ford Taurus". Everything else looks excellent, but the rear seems like a drunken afterthought Same here. I love the RS Coupe, but... that rear end end . I would hope that a good looking spoiler would help it out a bit.
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Feb 13, 2008 23:25
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Ize posted:http://youtube.com/watch?v=JAn-HdpGC-0&feature=related Cross posting from another thread because I wanna see of I can get an explanation.
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Feb 13, 2008 23:39
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In the comments section they give the specs on the car and talk about hitting 13.9 with the ITB's, AEM Stand alone, a 99 head swap, DOT tires, and full weight. That's not possible is it? I mean you can run a low boost forced induction setup(6-8psi) and never break out of the 14's even with good driving right?
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Schwack posted:Oh good, more weight for the NC In the article it quoted it mentioned a Solstice coupe, and and then add the rumored (?) Toyota AE86 successor. Also I thought convertibles were usually heavier than their coupe counterparts? Or is that only (usually) true for when it starts as a hardtop and moves to convertible?
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Feb 13, 2008 23:44
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Suniikaa posted:A leaking CAS o-ring is often mistaken for a rear main leak. Definitely check that out first. Also, I like the way the coupe looks. But I agree that the shape of the trunk lid resembles a tacky Ford Taurus. amadeo fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Feb 14, 2008 |
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Feb 14, 2008 00:15
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Ize posted:Cross posting from another thread because I wanna see of I can get an explanation. Your best bet would be to search the Miata.net forums (N/A sub forum) and search Fujiracing ITB's and you'll get all sorts of info, including the drag runs of the Fujiracing Miata. Or just post a thread and I'm sure there will be people that can explain it in full detail.
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Feb 14, 2008 00:50
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Ize posted:Cross posting from another thread because I wanna see of I can get an explanation. gently caress FujiRacing. I've never seen a legitimate dyno chart for that car, and all he does is post lovely 12-second videos of his car beating stock Miatas while his moronic fanbois scream about how IRTBS ROCKKKK and THE R STANDS FOR RACING and JIMMYS CAR IS SO NICE AND IT WILL WALK ALL OVER ANYTHING EVER IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD AND TURBO CARS HAVE ROAD SOFT SUSPENSION At least one respectable person has driven Jimmy's car, and they said the car was practically undriveable under 4000rpm, and the thing was downright dangerous from a safety standpoint. He tried to claim 175whp on IRTBs and an ECU on stock internals and got called out big time. The only possible explanation for that car going that fast would be a totally stripped interior and mabye some magic fairy dust. I counted closer to 15 seconds, BTW. Savington fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Feb 14, 2008 |
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Feb 14, 2008 01:27
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Savington posted:gently caress FujiRacing. I've never seen a legitimate dyno chart for that car, and all he does is post lovely 12-second videos of his car beating stock Miatas while his moronic fanbois scream about how IRTBS ROCKKKK and THE R STANDS FOR RACING and JIMMYS CAR IS SO NICE AND IT WILL WALK ALL OVER ANYTHING EVER IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD AND TURBO CARS HAVE ROAD SOFT SUSPENSION Wow, sounds like it's personal or something. Are you one of the people that were trying to bury him in the miata.net forums? Have you even driven an ITB Miata? I don't get where all this hatred comes from, Jimmy is a really cool guy and is not trying to rip people off. He has a decent ITB kit at a (relatively) affordable price and like anyone trying to run a business, he's trying to get the word out about his product. I've seen the dyno chart posted on Miata.net, and don't know why it wouldn't be legitimate. I also drove his car and it was a loving beast, and in no way was it "undrivable" or unsafe at any RPM. He lets anyone that wants to drive his car drive it because he wants them to experience an ITB Miata, he doesn't even care if you don't buy his kit.....I didn't.
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Feb 14, 2008 02:17
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pik_d posted:Also I thought convertibles were usually heavier than their coupe counterparts? Or is that only (usually) true for when it starts as a hardtop and moves to convertible?
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Feb 14, 2008 14:16
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leica posted:Have you even driven an ITB Miata? I don't think these things have reached the mainstream UK market yet, what do they consist of and what do they do to the car?
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Feb 14, 2008 14:22
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Individual Throttle Body. Throttle bodies for each individual cylinder instead of just one.
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Feb 14, 2008 16:09
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willd58 posted:I don't think these things have reached the mainstream UK market yet, what do they consist of and what do they do to the car?  They improve throttle response and revving, making the car a blast to drive. But it's a subjective thing, people that have never driven an ITB car, and forced induction fanbois tend to poo poo them because they don't put up huge HP numbers. But it's not about HP, it's about responsiveness. I was a skeptic until I drove a ITB Miata .
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Feb 14, 2008 16:40
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leica posted:Oooo... thanks for the ITB porn... I would totally do this, before I would even consider something like a supercharger or turbo setup. I agree with you, it's not so much "monstah hp gainz" or "teh n0s" as it is incredible responsiveness, and an evil sounding intake ;-) When I finally settle down and buy a newer, nicer Miata, I plan on doing ITBs to it... I may not be able to afford to do anything else to it afterwards...but one day I WILL have my ITB setup! 
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Feb 14, 2008 21:08
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It sounded like a neat idea, but christ, it seems like with $2k you could do a lot of stuff to a Miata.
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Feb 14, 2008 22:27
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