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Feb 18, 2008 02:42
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| # ? May 14, 2024 05:09 |
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buymazdaparts.com has it for 150$ shipped. And since tax return is coming and my job sent some "tuition assistance" my way... 
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Feb 18, 2008 03:34
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meh savington edit in more stuff DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Feb 18, 2008 |
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Feb 18, 2008 03:59
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Baby Hitler posted:
Stfu. Rosenthal Mazda has a pretty good price on the OEM spoiler, as does Trussville Mazda. Both around 150-160 shipped.
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Feb 18, 2008 04:05
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about poo poo we've moved on from
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Ize posted:What the gently caress is going on this post was on the other page a minute ago, how did it move? Now it looks like leica went into the future and quoted me Yeah I was wondering WTF. I quoted you 14 minutes after you posted. 
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Feb 18, 2008 05:10
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Triple-posting, timewarping, Miata driving fag spotted.
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Feb 18, 2008 05:51
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Sigh you guys are so m.net 
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Feb 18, 2008 07:36
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Phone posted:Triple-posting, timewarping, Miata driving fag spotted. Don't you have chores to do? Go clean your room, son.
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Feb 18, 2008 17:42
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Anyone ever used these eBay timing belt kits? (link) There's a thread on miata.net, but I figured I'd check here/spread the word. They appear to be of good quality and cheap as gently caress. Now I just need mobn to come over and install it for me.
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Feb 19, 2008 02:21
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destructo posted:Anyone ever used these eBay timing belt kits? (link) Either there's a layer of sarcasm I'm missing here or you've got me mixed up with somebody who's actually good at working on cars.
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Feb 19, 2008 05:02
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mobn posted:Either there's a layer of sarcasm I'm missing here or you've got me mixed up with somebody who's actually good at working on cars. .
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Feb 19, 2008 05:52
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destructo posted:Ha no, it's just that I have no experience working on cars, and you're the closest Miata-owning goon I know Heh. I can change my oil and swap out my sway bars. The timing belt and water pump are a much bigger job than that, unfortunately. Definitely the kind of thing I'd take to a mechanic unless you don't mind being carless while you figure everything out.
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Feb 19, 2008 06:06
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I've been having an interesting little malfunction on my '95 after I drained my battery by leaving my lights on at work. After I jump started it, the car was not wanting to idle correctly. At no throttle, it would drop the idle down to 100-200 RPM and generally shake and be pissed off, then slowly bring itself back up to the normal 850 rpm. Off idle, there's no difference in drivability. Okay easy fix, I'm thinking that my EGR valve is crapping out, or my TB needs cleaning. Right? Here's where it gets strange: When I turn my headlights on, the idle will not drop. I'm honestly mystified. Any thoughts, AI?
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Feb 20, 2008 20:28
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I know that I had a crappy alternator on my Legacy and it would do weird crap with the headlights and whatnot. I have the same "problem" with my Miata, the random dips to 500-600rpm and rumbling like a retard. It did it on my 96, too. However, I just cleaned the TB and replaced the air filter, so as far as I'm concerned  .Has anybody here had noise come from the pop-ups? I get this weird noise only when I have the pop-ups up. Phone fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Feb 20, 2008 |
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Feb 20, 2008 20:37
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Just ordered the new Energy Suspension bushing master kit for my car. There's a group buy on miataturbo.net for $209 shipped, I wasn't planning on doing bushings for another year but for almost 1/2 the price of the superpro bushings i couldn't resist. Now I just need to get a manual steering rack and the replacement pulley for it...
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Feb 20, 2008 22:02
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brosef deluxe posted:I've been having an interesting little malfunction on my '95 after I drained my battery by leaving my lights on at work. After I jump started it, the car was not wanting to idle correctly. At no throttle, it would drop the idle down to 100-200 RPM and generally shake and be pissed off, then slowly bring itself back up to the normal 850 rpm. Off idle, there's no difference in drivability. Okay easy fix, I'm thinking that my EGR valve is crapping out, or my TB needs cleaning. Right? Is it possible the battery dying reset the ECU and it just needs to re-adjust itself?
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Feb 20, 2008 23:45
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FireTora posted:Now I just need to get a manual steering rack and the replacement pulley for it... Just loop your power steering lines, or do the FM depower method. No need to swap racks. Plus, the power rack has a quicker steering ratio anyway.
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Feb 21, 2008 03:08
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mobn posted:Is it possible the battery dying reset the ECU and it just needs to re-adjust itself? It's quite possible - I know GM ECMs need to do an idle relearn if they've been completely wiped out and it takes them a while sometimes. Depending on the engine it can be bad enough that it won't even hold an idle at all initially. No clue if the Miata's does.
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Feb 21, 2008 03:12
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brosef deluxe posted:I've been having an interesting little malfunction on my '95 after I drained my battery by leaving my lights on at work. After I jump started it, the car was not wanting to idle correctly. At no throttle, it would drop the idle down to 100-200 RPM and generally shake and be pissed off, then slowly bring itself back up to the normal 850 rpm. Off idle, there's no difference in drivability. Okay easy fix, I'm thinking that my EGR valve is crapping out, or my TB needs cleaning. Right? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XtVBpNNoHg I wish I could get my car to do that on command.. sounds lumpy  edit: evidently it does have different cams. destructo fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Feb 21, 2008 |
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Feb 21, 2008 05:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's quite possible - I know GM ECMs need to do an idle relearn if they've been completely wiped out and it takes them a while sometimes. Depending on the engine it can be bad enough that it won't even hold an idle at all initially. No clue if the Miata's does. I'm still curious about the headlights preventing the idle problems, though.
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Feb 21, 2008 06:23
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brosef deluxe posted:I'm still curious about the headlights preventing the idle problems, though. Longshot, but (again) with GM ECMs when the computer turns the fans on, it also bumps the idle to compensate for the increased alternator drag. (I actually need to tweak this on mine since it ramps up hard enough that I creep a few inches even if I'm stopped!) Perhaps the Miata has something for if the headlights are on? And at least with the GM stuff, the 'Italian Tuneup' won't do you any good on the idle learning. It needs some solid time sitting there trying to idle to get itself figured out.
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Feb 21, 2008 06:30
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I think my wiring may have a short. My non flip up light works fine, but when I turn the blinker on, sometimes the front blinks, sometimes it doesn't. Has anyone else had this problem?
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Feb 22, 2008 00:16
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After doing my taxes, I'm eligible for about a $600 rebate. I'd love to lose some wheel gap and replace my 125k mile OEM shocks, so I'm really thinking about grabbing some Koni Yellows and running the stock springs on the lowest perch. Is this setup worth a drat, or should I move up to some aftermarket springs? Bonus round: Recommend me a grippy semi-long lasting tire in 205/55/R14 that won't make me panic during the rain.
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Feb 22, 2008 07:42
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I have Koni yellows with stock springs on my 94, and while it is a different car than my 96, it's fantastic. The shocks allows for a more aggressive alignment (I have the Lanny alignment: -1.2 camber up front, -1.7 in the rear) and combine that with sticky tires and there will be nothing but grip. Bonus round: gently caress it, get 15s.
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Feb 22, 2008 08:38
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Phone posted:I have Koni yellows with stock springs on my 94, and while it is a different car than my 96, it's fantastic. The shocks allows for a more aggressive alignment (I have the Lanny alignment: -1.2 camber up front, -1.7 in the rear) and combine that with sticky tires and there will be nothing but grip. I heartily recommend the Enkei RPF-1s. They 15s are fully 2 pounds lighter apiece than the lightest 14s that came stock and the size increase allows for fatter tires.
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Feb 22, 2008 18:17
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Konis + stock springs is probably the best full-time street setup there is. mobn posted:I heartily recommend the Enkei RPF-1s. They 15s are fully 2 pounds lighter apiece than the lightest 14s that came stock and the size increase allows for fatter tires. The 14x5.5 Volk CE28N is 6.5lbs  Unless Enkei is making wheels out of pure unobtanium, I don't think they've gotten lighter than the VolksI will recommend 6ULs until the cows come home. Cheaper than the Enkeis, and stronger, and wider.
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Feb 22, 2008 18:41
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mobn posted:I heartily recommend the Enkei RPF-1s. They 15s are fully 2 pounds lighter apiece than the lightest 14s that came stock and the size increase allows for fatter tires.  14/7 +38 IIRC. So buying 15's is a meh. I'll eventually plunk down the cash for the 6UL's. That is my wheel of dreams.
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Feb 23, 2008 02:52
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I'm trying to sell my 1996 as a parts car, but I'm having little to no luck on selling it whole. The problem is that I don't have the time nor tools to sufficiently part it out myself and make a small mint. I'm asking 1000$ for it on craigslist, and the only two "serious" hits have offered 500$ or less for it. Should I just take the money and call it a day and keep the seats and tail lights (about 100$ in stuff)? Insurance fuckery: finally got around to dropping the 96 and adding my 94... 30$/mo drop in insurance. 
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Feb 25, 2008 22:19
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Phone posted:I'm trying to sell my 1996 as a parts car, but I'm having little to no luck on selling it whole. The problem is that I don't have the time nor tools to sufficiently part it out myself and make a small mint. I'm asking 1000$ for it on craigslist, and the only two "serious" hits have offered 500$ or less for it. Should I just take the money and call it a day and keep the seats and tail lights (about 100$ in stuff)?
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Feb 26, 2008 01:44
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Phone posted:I'm trying to sell my 1996 as a parts car, but I'm having little to no luck on selling it whole. The problem is that I don't have the time nor tools to sufficiently part it out myself and make a small mint. I'm asking 1000$ for it on craigslist, and the only two "serious" hits have offered 500$ or less for it. Should I just take the money and call it a day and keep the seats and tail lights (about 100$ in stuff)? What color is it? I need a new rear bumper and front left fender for my red 94.
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Feb 26, 2008 03:55
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I don't have the time to part it out, and that's the problem. 
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Feb 26, 2008 08:32
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brosef deluxe posted:I'll eventually plunk down the cash for the 6UL's. That is my wheel of dreams. rimzzzz   You know you want a set when Emilio's next batch ships at the end of March...
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Feb 26, 2008 20:52
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I'm thinking of selling my black 05 MSM. I know their prices tend to fluctuate seasonally, and I'd like to get as much as possible out of it, obviously. I'm going to detail it to within an inch of its life and make sure everything's cool, but can anyone give me any additional advice specific to selling a Miata? I'm not even sure where to set the price at this point. I'm in the Philly area, if that matters (and I think it probably does). The car has about 17K miles and is in excellent condition and is bone stock, aside from a foamectomy, which looks decent. It has the GT package which is the cloth top and leather seats.
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Feb 27, 2008 17:35
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I have nothing to offer than a question: is the market for used MSMs as depressed as it was for them when they were new? If I were you I would suggest putting the car up on the market as soon as you feel able to - if the answer for the above is anything close to "yes", you should be able to get your price but you may need to be willing to wait. Really, by all accounts the MSM is a car that should have no problem commanding a premium over other Miatas, yet the market doesn't seem to agree.
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Feb 27, 2008 17:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:Really, by all accounts the MSM is a car that should have no problem commanding a premium over other Miatas, yet the market doesn't seem to agree.
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Feb 27, 2008 18:09
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Yeah, I think the problem is that for the price premium of an MSM, you could make a hell of a FI miata yourself.
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Feb 27, 2008 18:27
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It makes perfect sense that the cars don't command much price premium over regular Miatas because the perceived risk of unknown wear or damage is much higher. I've been toying with the idea of buying an 04/05 MSM, and I just can't take people's word that the car hasn't been driven too hard or raced. I'm not willing to pay much more for the car, especially when I don't have a garage or the time/money to deal with serious future repairs if the car was thrashed by the PO.
Ethyx fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Feb 28, 2008 |
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Feb 28, 2008 18:13
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The amount of boost on stock MSM is laughable. So unless if the PO cranked up the boost or did some mods, I think it'd be a safe call.
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Feb 28, 2008 18:55
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Phone posted:The amount of boost on stock MSM is laughable. So unless if the PO cranked up the boost or did some mods, I think it'd be a safe call. I'm not worried about the boost; I have faith in Mazda's engineers. I just can't trust people selling their MSMs, especially when most I've seen have been modded with questionable taste.
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Feb 28, 2008 23:18
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Want to see what an NB looks like without the front bumper?
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Mar 1, 2008 00:11
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