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destructo posted:Can anyone here relate any experiences with OEM windblockers? I'm thinking about putting one from an NB into my NA and was curious. M.net doesn't have too many user reviews. My 05 has the factory flip-up windblocker (with the gawdawful built-in Bose speakers) and it does a decent job. I took it out once to see how effective it actually was, and even at low speeds (30-40mph), I got absolutely beat with wind. With it flipped up, I have cruised at 70-80 mph for several hours with the top down in cold weather and been perfectly fine--I just needed a hat to keep the top of my head protected from the layer of tumbling air coming off the top of the windshield.
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Mar 11, 2008 04:18
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destructo posted:Can anyone here relate any experiences with OEM windblockers? I'm thinking about putting one from an NB into my NA and was curious. M.net doesn't have too many user reviews. My NB has the factory one and I dont think it does anything, but I've never been in a miata without one.
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Mar 11, 2008 04:23
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ManiacMatt posted:So is it possible to find a NB miata in the Golden Horshoe area of Ontario for under 3-4k or will it be about dying when I get it. I don't think I've ever seen a non-wrecked NB for that cheap. Closest I know of is JimmyJars' '99 at I think $4500. The problem for a Miata buyer is that low-mileage, super-clean NA's are still not that uncommon (even though the newest one is over 11 years old) and so it helps prop up the resale of the early NB cars, which in turn helps prop up the resale on late NBs.
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Mar 11, 2008 04:31
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The OEM NB windblocker is not really that effective. It's just not tall enough to interrupt the flow of air. I guess it might change a slight amount at highway speeds but it's hardly noticeable to me.
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Mar 11, 2008 04:37
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AkrisD posted:The OEM NB windblocker is not really that effective. It's just not tall enough to interrupt the flow of air. I guess it might change a slight amount at highway speeds but it's hardly noticeable to me. It really only works with the windows up, but I found it made quite a difference.
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Mar 11, 2008 15:18
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AkrisD posted:The OEM NB windblocker is not really that effective. It's just not tall enough to interrupt the flow of air. I guess it might change a slight amount at highway speeds but it's hardly noticeable to me. But there are a few who are expecting the windblocker to give Lexus-like performance -- ie, I won't feel a hair on my head move when it's up -- and that's not at all what it does.
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Mar 11, 2008 17:08
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Fuckin' UPS guy dropped the air dam in my garage without ringing the doorbell or anything. rear end in a top hat!
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Mar 11, 2008 20:09
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Phone posted:Fuckin' UPS guy dropped the air dam in my garage without ringing the doorbell or anything. Quit your bitching. They delivered my rollbar and harnesses (a 70lb triangular package worth around $1100) to my neighbors. You're lucky UPS didn't install the drat lip on his truck. :P
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Mar 11, 2008 21:22
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My heart is crying a little by posting in this thread.  Say that I was after a Miata for spec racing or autocross, and perhaps a weekend  car to drive around. What years should I be looking at?I'm not your usual AI poster that's 7 feet tall and 280 pounds, rather I'm 6 foot and 190lbs, so I should fit nicely.
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Mar 11, 2008 21:28
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Hypnolobster posted:Say that I was after a Miata for spec racing or autocross, and perhaps a weekend
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Mar 11, 2008 21:34
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I think most of the spec guys use the 89-93 cars since they don't have to run restrictors and can upgrade to 1.8L parts (brakes/LSD/etc). Anyways, CNDM yo  : 
Phone fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Mar 12, 2008 |
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Mar 11, 2008 22:48
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destructo posted:Most Spec racers use NA's (89-97), they're lighter and have a bit less in the means of creature comforts. You'd probably want a 94-97 to take advantage of the bigger 1.8 liter engine and possible Torsen LSD. No, definitely use a pre-94 so you don't have to put a restrictor on. Even better, just buy a used Spec Miata and save yourself all the work and frustration of building one to spec.
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Mar 12, 2008 00:20
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Alright goons, I need some help on deciding to buy this miata or not. It's a 94 and I think it's an A package (no power locks, windows, but it has a/c, cloth seats, 5 speed, and I think it has power steering) and it's listed for $3500. It needs a new top (holes patched with duct tape...) And the brakes are gone, but I'm pretty sure it only needs new pads. It was leaking fluid from the radiator cap and from where one of the heater hoses goes into the firewall. There was a spot of oil on the ground after I moved the car, so it leaks some oil apparently too, but it didn't shoot any blue smoke out of the tailpipe on start up. The 2nd gear synchro is a little worn, but I'm used to that as I drive a high mileage DSM. It's been repainted, and there is orange peel on the doors, but overall it doesn't look too bad. The cloth seats are a little torn up and the interior isn't in the greatest shape. What do you guys think this car is worth? It has 141k miles also for the record. Interior has some rattle from behind the driver's seat somewhere. Here's some pictures:   
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Mar 12, 2008 00:38
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DreamOn13 posted:Alright goons, I need some help on deciding to buy this miata or not. It's a 94 and I think it's an A package (no power locks, windows, but it has a/c, cloth seats, 5 speed, and I think it has power steering) and it's listed for $3500. It needs a new top (holes patched with duct tape...) And the brakes are gone, but I'm pretty sure it only needs new pads. It was leaking fluid from the radiator cap and from where one of the heater hoses goes into the firewall. There was a spot of oil on the ground after I moved the car, so it leaks some oil apparently too, but it didn't shoot any blue smoke out of the tailpipe on start up. The 2nd gear synchro is a little worn, but I'm used to that as I drive a high mileage DSM. It's been repainted, and there is orange peel on the doors, but overall it doesn't look too bad. The cloth seats are a little torn up and the interior isn't in the greatest shape. What do you guys think this car is worth? It has 141k miles also for the record. Interior has some rattle from behind the driver's seat somewhere. Here's some pictures:  I'd talk him down to ~2 grand, a new top's going to be ~300+labor, pads ~60-70, the oil leak is probably the CAS oil ring. Does the timing belt need to be done? Why has it been repainted? Bottom line: not worth your trouble for 3.5k destructo fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Mar 12, 2008 |
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Mar 12, 2008 00:42
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I paid a little over $4k for a car with 20k less miles, perfect top, brand new TB/WP/radiator, no oil leaks, and perfect brakes. $3500 is absurd. Talk him down to $2k and you can fix all of those issues, though. Oil leak is probably the CAS, leak at the firewall is a bent heater hose pipe (easy fix), leak at the radiator may be the radiator itself, or it may just be a cap. Nothing you listed is a terminal issue, except mabye the paint issue, but if you can live with it then it's probably fine.
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Mar 12, 2008 01:33
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I actually already did talk him to 2k. The negotiations went as such: me: I'll give you 2k for it. him: 2.5k? me: nope. him: ok. for 2k you think the car would make a good DD and later track car?
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Mar 12, 2008 01:51
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For $2k you can have a very nice $3500 Miata after you put $1500 in work into it.
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Mar 12, 2008 06:00
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Question for Savington: I already asked you this somewhere and you reponded but I didn't save the link but where did you get your suspension bits?(koni's, eibach's, and gc sleeves) Also are those sleeves necessary or would it be possible to just run those struts and springs? God that is one stupid question.
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Mar 12, 2008 18:29
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Ize posted:Question for Savington: You need the gc sleeves to use those eibach spring due to their 2.5" diameter. You can get the gc's from any supplier that sells them, ground control has a pretty tight lockdown on their pricing so price will be the same everywhere. Savington is running the koni race shocks which are about twice the price of the regular koni sports but any place that carries konis should be able to order either for you. Edit: another option to the groundcontrol sleeves are the fatcat motorsports sleeves. They're basically the same product but Shaikh sells 2 versions, one that uses the 2.5" "race" springs and another that uses 3.5" stock springs. FireTora fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Mar 12, 2008 |
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Mar 12, 2008 19:10
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I just found out that my third cylinder doesn't build up enough compression (rough idle etc). When I put a llittle bit of motor oil into the cylinder and measure again it builds up a little bit more for a few strokes. Since I only paid 2.300 € for the car in total I don't want to spend the 700 € I calculated for getting it back into normal condition. Therefore I will do an engine swap (it's the 1.6 engine). Is there any engine that is compatible aside from the Miata's engine? The 323 is very similar, but is a switch plug & play?
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Mar 15, 2008 18:13
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Mo Hawk posted:I just found out that my third cylinder doesn't build up enough compression (rough idle etc). When I put a llittle bit of motor oil into the cylinder and measure again it builds up a little bit more for a few strokes. Since I only paid 2.300 € for the car in total I don't want to spend the 700 € I calculated for getting it back into normal condition. Not to derail your question Mo Hawk, but someone once told me that the Kia Sephia's 1.8 was the same 1.8 that's in the NB Miata. Is there any truth to this? For some reason I really don't think so, maybe he meant that they are swappable? I don't know what he was talking about.
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Mar 15, 2008 20:37
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WT Wally posted:Not to derail your question Mo Hawk, but someone once told me that the Kia Sephia's 1.8 was the same 1.8 that's in the NB Miata. Is there any truth to this? For some reason I really don't think so, maybe he meant that they are swappable? I don't know what he was talking about.
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Mar 15, 2008 20:47
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Should I be adjusting my clutch pedal after replacing the slave cylinder? It's grabbing a bit higher than before which is beginning to annoy me. I want it grabbing a little earlier. Also, could the clutch fluid level being past max cause this? If so why? EDIT: I took the extra fluid out and adjusted my freeplay to a little over 0.5inches. Feels better now. I wonder how doing the slave changed the freeplay... Ziploc fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Mar 16, 2008 |
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Mar 15, 2008 21:46
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FireTora posted:You need the gc sleeves to use those eibach spring due to their 2.5" diameter. You can get the gc's from any supplier that sells them, ground control has a pretty tight lockdown on their pricing so price will be the same everywhere. Savington is running the koni race shocks which are about twice the price of the regular koni sports but any place that carries konis should be able to order either for you. You want the sleeves so you can use the springs, but they make springs that don't need sleeves too. The main benefit of the sleeves is that they let you run whatever ride height you want. So you can git slammmd y0
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Mar 16, 2008 03:03
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Savington posted:You want the sleeves so you can use the springs, but they make springs that don't need sleeves too. But do they make 750/450 springs that don't need sleeves? Or is that just the street springs?
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Mar 16, 2008 03:05
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http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MX5Engine.html tells me that the 1.6 DOHC B6P which is in my Miata was also used by the 323 GTX, Mercury Capri/XR2 and 94-95 MX-3. Does this mean I could take the MX-3 offered here: http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=lmyrttmbrodj and drop it into my 1991 Miata without too much effort?
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Mar 16, 2008 19:07
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destructo posted:Yeah, it is. The nice thing is that you can get a nice, barely used 1.8 out of a 2000-ish Sephia for $300. Why have I never heard about this in researching Miatas for two years?
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Mar 17, 2008 00:00
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I'm buying my first Miata tomorrow! '93 1.6 Black with tan leather. Done 70k miles, and has aircon, cruisecontrol, hardtop and 6 disc cd changer. I'm loving psycked, can't wait to try it! Anyone know how much those chrome roll-bars go for?
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Mar 17, 2008 00:13
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Something is up with my car, it's a 1996. Sometimes, typically in the lower RPM's, I will lose almost all power and it just goes PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT then will suddenly regain all power. It usually happens in 2nd gear around 2-3k rpm but it has happened in other gears. It hasn't thrown a CEL yet or anything like that.destructo posted:Yeah, it is. The nice thing is that you can get a nice, barely used 1.8 out of a 2000-ish Sephia for $300.
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Mar 17, 2008 05:37
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compton rear end terry posted:Wikipedia says 94-97 used the miata/protege's 1.8 Same engine. edit: The Koreans used outside engines a lot, I know Mitsubishi engines were used in earlier Hyundais*, and have heard usages of Nissan engines in others. *I had a Hyundai 4G63 valve cover on my DSM for laughs DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Mar 17, 2008 |
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Mar 17, 2008 05:41
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compton rear end terry posted:Something is up with my car, it's a 1996. Sometimes, typically in the lower RPM's, I will lose almost all power and it just goes PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT then will suddenly regain all power. It usually happens in 2nd gear around 2-3k rpm but it has happened in other gears. It hasn't thrown a CEL yet or anything like that. Check your air filter. Mine does that when something big gets caught in it.
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Mar 17, 2008 05:41
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mobn posted:Check your air filter. Mine does that when something big gets caught in it. What about the cats?
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Mar 17, 2008 06:44
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WT Wally posted:Not to derail your question Mo Hawk, but someone once told me that the Kia Sephia's 1.8 was the same 1.8 that's in the NB Miata. Is there any truth to this? For some reason I really don't think so, maybe he meant that they are swappable? I don't know what he was talking about. Kia used a lot of old Mazda designs for quite a while in that timeframe so yeah, they can be a good source of cheap Mazda parts 
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Mar 17, 2008 06:47
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Ize posted:But do they make 750/450 springs that don't need sleeves? Or is that just the street springs? My springs are 700/450, and you need sleeves with them because I don't think anyone makes a stock-diameter spring in those rates. You do realize that only a racing shock (aka Koni 28/30s, Koni Race, Penske, etc.) will handle those rates, right? Not even a Tein Flex will do my rates.
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Mar 17, 2008 06:59
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Savington posted:You do realize that only a racing shock (aka Koni 28/30s, Koni Race, Penske, etc.) will handle those rates, right? Not even a Tein Flex will do my rates. That's the idea.  The car(when I have the money on hand to buy one) will be spending as much time as I can afford at VIR.and I meant 700 not 750. vv fyi outside of the engine bay I'm probably gonna be cloning your car. Ize fucked around with this message at 10:17 on Mar 17, 2008 |
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Mar 17, 2008 09:10
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Sweet. For those rates, there's no cheaper shock than the Koni Race. Be sure to spend the appropriate coin on a rollbar/seats/harnesses as well; if I could only make one modification to a bone-stock car, it would be adding a racing seat.
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Mar 17, 2008 09:49
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mobn posted:Check your air filter. Mine does that when something big gets caught in it. Air filter looks fine. Any other suggestions?
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Mar 17, 2008 21:55
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compton rear end terry posted:Air filter looks fine. Any other suggestions? Like Ziploc said, it could also be clogged cats, but I don't know how to check those. On another topic, I just got a hard top, and I am amazed at how much more civil the car is with it on. On the jumping and twisting about on bumpy roads is gone, and it feels tighter and stiffer.
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Mar 17, 2008 22:13
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So I keep seeing people recommending stuff other than the super-sticky Azenis as of late. What's the tire du jour for those of us still running stock 14" wheels on a Miata? I've got no real problem with the Kumho 716's that were new when we bought the car but I wouldn't mind trading a bit of tread life for traction - these tires aren't down to the wear bars completely but they're so hard they're just about dangerous and one has a decent cut in the sidewall going on too. I live in Mesa, AZ, so snow and super-cold weather performance is of no real concern to me. I do not, unfortunately, get to autocross the car as much as I'd like - so if there's a tire that is perhaps a step down from the RT-615 in outright grip but is also a step down in price, I'm listening.
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Mar 17, 2008 23:11
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The azenis are rediculously cheap. The RS2 would be a logical choice(more comfortable and longer wearing than than azenis), but it is more money.
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Mar 18, 2008 07:00
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