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mobn posted:Is the warranty still good on the Mazdaspeed? If so, then you've got a turbo Miata with a warranty, which is pretty nice. Unless the regular NB is in far better condition, I'd talk the Mazdaspeed seller down to 15k and take it. Any tips on how to talk the guy down? I offered 14 and after a while of back and forth I said that I might go to 15. The guy (dealer) sounds pretty convinced that he will get 16.5 for it, I told him to call me back once he's ready to come down on the price. Edit: Points that I have brought up with him: 1) They got it as a trade in, so they probably paid 13-14 for it. 2) The economy is in (or heading towards) a recession, so there aren't many people looking to buy a sports car right now. Points I haven't raised: 1) They're trying to sell a foreign car at a domestic dealership. 2) The price of gas going up, and the car's requirement for high octane fuel. aksuur fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Mar 27, 2008 |
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Mar 27, 2008 00:57
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If he's convinced he's going to get 16.5 for it, it's going to take a cold kick in the balls from reality for him to realize that it's not going to happen. Although I can't really fault him for holding out just to test the waters. If somebody comes along in a few days and gives him 16.5 for it, then he just made $1500 more on the sale. If he's not in a hurry to sell it, it only makes sense to turn down low offers for a little while. If he doesn't sell it within 2 weeks he'll come to realize he might be asking to much for his particular market.
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Mar 27, 2008 01:04
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aksuur posted:Points I haven't raised: Just curious, but how is this a bargaining point? This kind of thing happens with trade-ins all the time.
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Mar 27, 2008 01:14
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Schwack posted:Just curious, but how is this a bargaining point? This kind of thing happens with trade-ins all the time. It probably isn't, I was just brainstorming. I figured that most people shopping at a domestic dealer would shy away from an import, but that may or may not be true.
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Mar 27, 2008 01:49
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So I depowered my steering rack on saturday, I like how it feels a lot better now. Installed a Mazda6 shift knob last night which I like more than the stock one, its a bit meatier. Didn't get around to doing my bushings since I had a couple problems with my ES kit but I have replacement parts on the way. Also ordered new tie rods and boots since both boots on the tie rod ends were destroyed when I pulled them out. Got new master and slave clutch cylinders on the way also which will be sitting in my garage for a few months until I put my new flywheel in with a new clutch. Refreshing cars is nice.
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Mar 27, 2008 02:14
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How common is it for the intake manifold on NA's (96) to get clogged and gross like on the NB's? ( http://www.miata.net/garage/manifold/index.html ) My car sounds like something is clogged in the intake/exhaust, especially when I'm WOT.
Back it up Terry fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Mar 27, 2008 |
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Mar 27, 2008 04:52
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Transmission question re: '97 5-speed Sometimes- but not all the time- and especially when the car is not warmed up- my transmission is a bit reluctant to shift into 2nd gear. I'll move the shifter towards the gear, and it'll kind of "bump" unless I let off the gas or park the shifter in neutral for a second. Now, I would normally assume that the 2nd gear synchro is going, but that would cause trouble all the time, wouldn't it? Or maybe I don't understand the process of transmissions gradually making GBS threads the bed. The car's due for a service soon, but if anyone has any input, I'd love to hear it.
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Mar 27, 2008 05:58
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Luxmore posted:Transmission question re: '97 5-speed
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Mar 27, 2008 06:45
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Borrow a pressure-tester for your leak. It took me ages to find mine - I had one at the 90 degree elbow that plugs into the bottom of the thermostat from the waterpump - JB welded that after I replaced waterpump and the O rings on the lower half. Could've saved 80$ on the waterpump.. And the second time I developed a leak, I wouldn't have found it if not for the pressure tester. The line going to the throttle body was leaking but only under pressure - I thought it was coming from the rear since I couldn't see it. Just hidden under the intake manifold. Now if you will, allow me to rant. My 96 started to suffer from a collapsed lifter. 178k miles, supercharged for 30. Tap tap tap at 4k rpm at cruise. So I decided to go ahead and pull the timing and cams and found a good deal on ebay on lifters and decided to swap them all vs. testing them. So I get pretty far with it - and then I realize "hey, ya know what? Valve stem seals are right there - I can't really tell if I need them since I run pig-rich, but while I'm here it'd be good to swap them." So I order some fel-pro's at autozone. Yeah, I could get the Viton's on MiataRoadster for a good price and not have to worry about them for another 50k, but I'm looking to buy another Miata before then. So I have to wait for the fel-pro's to come in. Valve cover? Nah - I should be able to reuse mine, it's only got about 20k on it. So - what happens? I rip the poo poo out of the valve cover. Order another one - it's going to arrive in 4 days - no biggy, I still have to wait for the lifters to arrive. I'll get the valve stems tomorrow (sunday), swap those out, then I just need to wait for the lifters, get those swapped, then go back the other way and wait for the valve cover gasket. Turns out - you can't use the 15$ spring compressor tool that Autozone sells. And every generic tool out there appears to be for a full head-off job. So after searching, I manage to find a tool on ebay monday night - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350040336723 . Not wanting to be delayed in getting the work done, I do some searching and find a place that is selling it in Tennessee. I'm in Atlanta. There's a UPS hub in Tennessee, so shipping should be pretty drat quick. It's a little more expensive and they seem to be charging a little more than usual on shipping, but that's the breaks if you want it right away, right? So I put the order in. They get it shipped out the same day, tracking starts on Tuesday. I check the progress today (was hoping to find it on my doorstep) and the fucker's origin is Cali. Delivery date is monday. God. Dammit. So - looks like I won't be getting the drat thing done this weekend unless I go ahead and skip doing valve stem seals. Did I mention that my miata is my current daily driver and I'm having to borrow one of my parents cars? In other news - here's some cool pictures for the hell of it. PS - Duplicolor Metalcast paint is the poo poo. Moral of the story: If you're gonna do valve lifters, make sure you have valve stem seals, the right tools, and a second car before you start.   
iscariot fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Mar 27, 2008 |
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Mar 27, 2008 06:56
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I have some valve noise that's pissing the poo poo out of me, but I figure that a valve job is a couple years down the line. At least before I turbocharge it.  How long/difficult is it to do the valvecover? I'm thinking about going purple for a nice contrast to the yellow dipstick for maximum speed and class.
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Mar 27, 2008 07:14
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Phone posted:I have some valve noise that's pissing the poo poo out of me, but I figure that a valve job is a couple years down the line. At least before I turbocharge it. Only about a day to do the valve cover. Can take it off in a couple minutes just need it off long enough for the paint to dry really. I just did mine in wrinkle black while doing my steering rack. Also replaced the pcv valve with a 323 gtx one and a new gasket for it in preparation for boostu but have just changed my mind on doing it this summer. Decided to do a mild rebuild with some rods to replace my 130k 1.6 engine and then turbo it in spring. Should provide me with more power than i have know due to being a fresh engine and will be able to take the amount of power i want reliably when I get around to turboing it.
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Mar 27, 2008 08:01
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A guy over on Miata.net (ejenkins123) said an NC Mazdaspeed MX-5 is becoming a reality.quote:I am a salesman at a Mazda dealership. Our "Mazda" rep came in today. I asked him if they were going to make one. I've been waiting very patiently for this. I'm going to get in touch with my local Mazdaspeed dealer to try to confirm all this and possibly even get my name on a list. The question remains, however: do I sell my 97 Camry toward the MS MX-5 and buy a really cheap beater, or do I just drive the Camry until it dies, which would be a decade from now considering it has only 62k miles?
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Mar 27, 2008 16:56
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Tard at the Mazda dealership wanted 130 bucks for a Mazda6 shifter knob... to eBay! I just got accepted into Mazdaspeed and I'm wondering if the stock discs (48.75 a pop) are worth it over Brembo blanks at NAPA (63.xx a pop).
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Mar 27, 2008 17:40
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Phone posted:Tard at the Mazda dealership wanted 130 bucks for a Mazda6 shifter knob... to eBay! Just get the cheap NAPA rotors for $18 each (22 in the case of the 1.8 brakes), its not worth the extra money getting the others unless you enjoy throwing money away. If you need brake pads also getcoolparts.com sells the Axxis/PBR Ultimate pads for 62ish shipped for the whole car I saw a Mazda6 knob on eBay the other day for ~20 bucks but I don't know if it still there, I got mine from Rosenthal Mazda for 93 I think with paypal monies. FireTora fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Mar 27, 2008 |
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Mar 27, 2008 18:28
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FireTora posted:Just get the cheap NAPA rotors for $18 each (22 in the case of the 1.8 brakes), its not worth the extra money getting the others unless you enjoy throwing money away. If you need brake pads also getcoolparts.com sells the Axxis/PBR Ultimate pads for 62ish shipped for the whole car I saw a Mazda6 knob on eBay the other day for ~20 bucks but I don't know if it still there, I got mine from Rosenthal Mazda for 93 I think with paypal monies.
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Mar 27, 2008 18:44
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Seems like its that time of the year again; Miata prices shoot up, motorcycle prices shoot up, and trackdays start happening. I'll be doing the following this yearcode:Since I'm not running street tires anymore, a nice set of Kumho ASXs went on my Kazera KZ-M wheels to get me to and from the track, where I'll be running 14x6 Kosei K1 TS with Nitto NT01 tires in 205/55/14. I replaced all the control arm bushings with Delrin, replaced the lower ball joints and upper ball joint boots, have adjustable swaybar endlinks, new alignment bolts, nice shiny tow hooks, and a new battery, since mine was getting long in the tooth. In the process of attempting to do the bushings, I found there was no way in hell I was getting the rear LCA/hub bolt out, so I've also gotten nice used hubs (with new bearings) and nice used rear LCAs. I'm hoping this season will see two limiting factors: Driver and Damper/Spring setup. I'm currently running FlyinMiata springs with KYB AGX dampers and have no plans to upgrade them this season, since they served me moderately well last season. I'd also like to see how the AFCO setup from FM and the 949 Racing setup do this year before I make a decision on further upgraded suspension. For brakes, I'm trying out Brembo blanks and Carbotech XP-10/XP-8 (F/R), as opposed to blanks with Hawk HPS pads last year. We'll see if I can put off a TB/WP replacement until this coming winter, when I'll also be replacing the front bumper (same accident as above) and the rear bumper (hit and run when the car was parked on the street), as well as possibly putting in a full cage and getting some paint sprayed. I don't really know what the point of this post is, other than to see if anyone else is in the NorthEast and interested in coming out to some track days, as well as give a brief overview of what I'll be doing with my Miata. For those interested, I bought the car for $2000 last February; its a 1990 with PS, AC, and manual windows and mirrors.
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Mar 27, 2008 20:49
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Etrips posted:So this is my first "new(er)" car that I have ever owned with such low mileage. I'm coming up close to 30k miles, and while I went to go do my oil change today, the sales rep handed me a little brochure for a "Major Service Interval". He gave me a price of $540 to do everything that's listed. Would it be better to go somewhere else to do it or just suck it up and let the stealership do it? Anyone? 
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Mar 27, 2008 22:17
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Etrips posted:Anyone? From Miata.net, here: http://www.miata.net/garage/mainttips.html, the 30k mile maintenance schedule includes: quote:Let's look at the 30,000 mile maintenance. For just that stuff, $600 is pretty larcenous, so you could probably get the same service performed at an independent shop for a fair amount less. Or you could do it yourself for parts cost ($100 or so). Although the Miata.net garage article is aimed more specifically at NA/NB Miatas, and not so much the NC. I don't know if you have an NC or not, but even so I imagine the 30k maintenance isn't much different.
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Mar 27, 2008 22:30
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It's a pretty big list that they have.. Will post it when I get home.
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Mar 27, 2008 22:38
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Etrips posted:It's a pretty big list that they have.. Will post it when I get home. But is most of it just "Check x, Check y, Check z" and very little actual "Replace x, flush y, adjust z"? Because that's not really any real amount of labor or skill. What year is your car?
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Mar 27, 2008 23:08
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Guinness posted:But is most of it just "Check x, Check y, Check z" and very little actual "Replace x, flush y, adjust z"? Because that's not really any real amount of labor or skill. 03 LS Edit: - Change engine oil and filter - Install Castle oil additive (?) - Check transmission coolant level - Inspect and clean exterior of radiator core\ - Test coolant & flush coolant - Replace air cleaner element - Clutch adjustment - Inspect exhaust system - Replace spark plugs - Adjust ignition timing - Inspect motor transmissions mount - Check ignition wiring and timing control system - Check and adjust idle speeds - Inspect PCV valve - Check fuel lines and connections, change fuel filter - Inspect charcoal canister - Clean and adjust front and rear brakes - Measure brake pads and flush brake lines - Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and rack guides - Measure tire wear and adjust tire pressure - Rotate and high speed balance all tires - Inspect all fluids - Lubrication of all recommended areas - Install Castle Fuel System Conditioner (?) - Test EGR system and fuel injection system - Clean throttle body Etrips fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Mar 28, 2008 |
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Mar 27, 2008 23:32
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Yesterday someone rear ended me while I was stopped at a light(they were braking but at impact were going about 30-35mph). It is a 99 Silver with hardtop and has major vibration when in motion. After the crash the key won't come out of the ignition; does anyone know a way to make it release the key? I've attached a picture with hopes that I can find out the probability of it being totaled by the other persons insurance. If anyone has advice with how I should proceed it would be very much appreciated  IOwnCalculus posted:Update: Mike's Place in Phoenix, AZ, apparently kicks some major rear end. They called her when it was towed in to confirm they had it, and in the space of one day they did the head gasket, threw on new radiator hoses, and did an oil change, all told for about $430 including the tow. Sure, the Miata is a simple car to work on but I don't have time to fix it for her and that seems like a hell of a deal to me.
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Mar 29, 2008 02:24
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deafmute posted:Yeah Mike's Place is very awesome and if you pay with cash they give you a discount. Good to know...not that she had cash for it but I just think they were more than reasonable. That '95M has had a rough life Are you local? Another AZ goon with a silver '99?  I'd say that one could go either way, depending on the value they decide to assign to it and how deep the damage goes.
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Mar 29, 2008 05:08
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I'm going to take a stab at this.Etrips posted:03 LS Nearly all of the above is trivial work. And its very likely that you would notice any of the items on the list being out of spec after the first few days of ownership. The CASTLE stuff scares me though. That list is not for a Miata. It's likely a cash grab for all the vehicles they sell. Take my post as a grain of salt though. It's just my recommendations.
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Mar 29, 2008 05:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Good to know...not that she had cash for it but I just think they were more than reasonable. That '95M has had a rough life 
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Mar 29, 2008 05:58
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deafmute posted:Yeah I'm in Phoenix; do you have a hardtop too? Nope, we've got the awesome "holy softtop" option
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Mar 29, 2008 07:56
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Anyone have the cam cap torque values and order handy? Thanks.
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Mar 29, 2008 21:55
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iscariot posted:Anyone have the cam cap torque values and order handy? Thanks. Torque Values should be here: http://www.miata.net/garage/torque.html but I didn't see them. So I looked in the FSM: 11.3-14.2 Nm (100-126 in-lb) code:laymil fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 29, 2008 |
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Mar 29, 2008 23:21
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Hello everyone. I just wanted to post to let you all know that I now own a 95 Miata. I picked it up from a guy in Downtown Chicago, IL on Thursday evening. I've never had so much fun in a car. http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2201yk6.jpg That picture is from the previous owner. PO was from California, moved to Chicago and decided he likes his pedal bike better for downtown. I wanted it because of the body. I was unable to find any rust on the body. It's a high mileage car, but it runs very well all the way to redline. It's a big change from my 1989 Isuzu Trooper (which I am keeping too).
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Mar 31, 2008 17:39
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Just finished installing my ES control arm bushings on saturday, it made a huge change in the car. Feels much more solid now and more planted/flatter in turns. Car is at 12 inch front height and 12.5 rear from center of wheel to fender lip right now, probably going to bump it up to 12.5/13 before i go get an alignment next week to get a bit more shock travel. Rears were just barely sitting on my bump stops on friday before I raised my GCs ~3 thread.
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Mar 31, 2008 19:04
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FireTora posted:Just finished installing my ES control arm bushings on saturday, it made a huge change in the car. Feels much more solid now and more planted/flatter in turns. Car is at 12 inch front height and 12.5 rear from center of wheel to fender lip right now, probably going to bump it up to 12.5/13 before i go get an alignment next week to get a bit more shock travel. Rears were just barely sitting on my bump stops on friday before I raised my GCs ~3 thread. edit: ah, I'm still reading up on this suspension stuff, so a ~12 ride hight essentially dumps me on the stock bumpstops? destructo fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 31, 2008 |
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Mar 31, 2008 19:53
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destructo posted:That's with OEM stops right? Might want to look into the FCM's. I have koni yellows and FCM linear stops and shock mounts. destructo posted:edit: ah, I'm still reading up on this suspension stuff, so a ~12 ride hight essentially dumps me on the stock bumpstops? FireTora fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Apr 1, 2008 |
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Mar 31, 2008 20:15
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Check out my swaybar endlinks! I ended up buying them from Gearhead's Garage instead of making them myself Click to make it big  They are actually pretty stout. I should have put a quarter next to them to show the size...
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Apr 1, 2008 04:00
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Very cool XXXXXXXXXXXX, I just installed the 2.low links (yours are the standard ones)on my miata last weekend with Steve (the owner of gearheads garage) showing me how to set them up. Big difference!!
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Apr 1, 2008 06:11
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Ok so after poking around for a few days, I came up with what looks to me like a decent suspension overhaul for my 95. Dampers: Tokico Illuminas off Ebay I was originally eyeing the KYB AGX's, but there were too many posts on m.net detailing how quickly the shocks started to give out. That and the Illuminas are hardly more expensive. Shocks: FM Springs I know a lot of people recommend sticking with the stock springs, and I could definitely be convinced to go that way. It just so happened that I read a few posts detailing peoples experiences with these springs and they seemed to be quite happy, and for barely more than $200 it seems like a good idea to go ahead and replace the stockers. Sways: FM Swaybars I figured I should go ahead and replace the stock sways. My understanding is that this should help combat my rear wheel lifting off the ground during hard cornering (a number of people said I looked like a VW at an autocross this last weekend). I like the adjustable FM sways, but if there is a better alternative out there I'm open to suggestion. I decided to go ahead and replace some of the bushings as well, as that made quite a bit of difference on my MR2. Im thinking the Energy Suspension Base Bushing kit from 949racing.com. I'm kind of on the fence about their differential bushing kit. Somehow it just doesnt seem like it would help that much. Any input? Thats everything I've come up with so far. Like I said, Im definitely open to change what I've got listed here, but I would like to try and have my decision nailed down by later this week so I can get started ordering this stuff!
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Apr 1, 2008 14:39
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Tockicos are poo poo. This is from working on tons of Miatas, I've never seen a blown KYB, but almost every Miata I worked on with Tockicos they were either leaking and/or completely blown and we'd replace them with KYB's. that being said, I'd go with Konis if you can afford it they are a much better damper.
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Apr 1, 2008 15:05
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Go Koni Yellows and keep the stock springs. I'd personally would use the spring money (and perhaps some of the sway bar money) to do bushings and whatnot.
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Apr 1, 2008 15:18
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Are you talking about the Tokico HP's, Illuminas or both? I saw a bunch of posts steering everyone far away from the HP's, but the consensus seemed to be OK on the Illuminas. The Koni Yellows are the only one they make for the Miata, right? I already have basically all the bushing money allocated in there. I didnt go with the complete kit because the only change is the addition of the diff bushings and the swaybar bushings. They mention that the sway bushings are only for the stock setup so I avoided them. Would it be worth buying new OEM springs or just sticking with the ones that come off the car? My experience with MR2's was that it was a really bad idea to pair your old, used springs with new shocks. Schwack fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Apr 1, 2008 |
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Apr 1, 2008 15:20
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You can go the Savington route and get Koni RACE shocks. 
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Apr 1, 2008 15:21
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Phone posted:You can go the Savington route and get Koni RACE shocks. Haha, Im sure they're great but they are probably overkill for someone like me. That and they would basically cost as much as my whole little package I've drawn up here. Also, does anybody have any comments on the quality of the bushings I mentioned?
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Apr 1, 2008 15:46
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