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I understand, but I'm not sure if the hutch itself should be the sole focus: like I said, I want to set up a large pen for them to scurry around in when I can't supervise them. Again, this is for the distant future (4-5 years probably when I get a higher-paying job) and it depends on my housing situation then. If the apartment is going to be small I'll do a hutch-pen setup, but if and when I can actually get a house a larger hutch (probably 3 feet by 4 or 5 feet) would be viable, and I can do away with the pen entirely.
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Apr 25, 2008 21:32
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Apparently my bun is abnormal for liking her upper floor -- the top floor in her pen is just the size of one square, though, and has 'her' sweatshirt tucked up there, so it's a super comfortable 'meatloaf' place, and she's almost always half-napping there whenever I get home. I have no problem with keeping my bun in my room with me; Manhattan apartments are tiny, and I wouldn't want to impose Zen's pen area on my roomies by keeping her in the living room. My solution was to loft my bed (IKEA lofts are like $200 or so) and take advantage of the large amounts of extra floor real estate afterwards. Also, Zen is only semi-active at night, prefers to mostly chew up the carpet I have laid down for her ($3 at Target, best investment ever), and wait semi-patiently for me to wake up and serve breakfast. I've never had trouble sleeping in my room. I'm thinking of rearranging my room again to try to make even better use of floor space. You'd think this wouldn't be a problem with the only things on the floor being Zen's pen, a bookshelf, and a dresser, but I mean it: Manhattan apartments are TINY. :/ Well, for us non-millionaires, at least. (Also I'm a slob so at any given time half my wardrobe is on my floor. Zen no longer finds this interesting, thankfully, and just bypasses heaps of clothes she could merrily tear up and beelines for the living room, where the carpet has been her new chew toy. :/)
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Apr 25, 2008 23:15
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I'm pretty much just going to support everything alucinor has said. 1. Bunnies need way more space than 18x24...I was required to have 5' x 5' PER bunny to adopt. 2. Bunnies need a minimum of 30hrs a week of out of cage time. 3. Dwarves are usually less friendly, they jump very high, and are super hyper. 4. Bunnies are way too loud to sleep in the same room, the run, the stomp, the rip paper, they dig in the litter box, etc. 5. Building a cage up doesn't mean more space, rabbits will feel more comfortable on the ground, also they have more room to run. 6. Can I ask, why three? That just seems odd. Bunnies are usually adopted out in singles or pairs. I've only seen one group of bunnies and that was 5 bunnies bonded together.
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Apr 25, 2008 23:36
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girlscoutdropout posted:I'm pretty much just going to support everything alucinor has said. 1. A 5' by 5' pen is pretty big, but doable in a living room. It's more the hutch itself that'll have to be smaller, and I think it'll be focused around being more of a nesting/shelter area. 2. 5 hours a day out would be perfectly doable on a 9-5 job schedule. I sleep late anyways so I would probably be able to handle them bouncing around up until 2 am from the time I get home. 3. This would probably be the most troublesome part, since I tend to leave a bit of a mess on tables and countertops. I'll just have to keep my papers, books, glassware, laptop and et cetera in another room then that's off-limits to buns. 4. Looks like adoption will definitely have to wait until I get a spacious apartment with a separate living room, at least. 5. Not sure what to say regarding this, but I'll build in modular units then. Start with two levels then work up to three and see if they're interested. 6. I plan on getting a bonded pair first. If it works out I'll consider picking up a third.
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Apr 25, 2008 23:50
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I need to post pictures. Let me figure out how to do that. 3 rabbits is possible but honestly, I would start with 2. Bonding in odd numbers either works well or is horrible because you have 2 bunnies beating up a third. Also, don't get small rabbits just because of space. Both of mine are on the smaller side and were shelter bunnies. Ender's probably about 5 lbs and Portia is 7lbs. Cages don't need to be fancy, I'll show you in just a moment... And if you have a bunny proofed home, why not let them be free like mine? Rabbits can be much like cats and live out and about. Of course, you have to bunny proof and trust that they don't dig...which is why I don't have carpet. As rabbits age they chill and Ender doesn't even want to destroy things anymore. Portia is chilling as well since she's a bit over a year now. 2 seems to be the magical age at least for me
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Apr 26, 2008 00:11
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Getting a bonded pair and adding another is near impossible. Why not just stick with 2? You could do the free roaming bunnies. You will have to start in a cage though and both parties will need to be spayed/neutered. Eventually expand their space. I plan on doing this if mine two ever bond. Are you dead set on getting dwarves? Why not get larger, calmer, rabbits. Both of mine are about 9lbs. 5' x 5' is pretty big, i agree, but I just wanted you to know what you might face when adopting.
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Apr 26, 2008 01:13
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Bunway Airlines posted:I need to post pictures. Let me figure out how to do that. Hmm. Letting them roam free might just be doable. Or at least setting aside a specific room as being the "bunny room" when I eventually get a house. The only problem would be them leaving the occasional poop here and there when they mark their territory. And what sort of floor do you have? Hardwood or tile? I thought rabbits hated sliding around on that. EDIT: I can certainly consider a larger bun. I just prefer smaller rabbits. Cuter, more energetic. Pretty much the opposite of my preference for dogs (I like big dogs like huskies or german shepherds). Funny how you mention that smaller rabbits tend to have more energy. I always said that "terriers are 100% dog in 25% the size" for the same reason. 
ShadowCatboy fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 26, 2008 |
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Apr 26, 2008 01:16
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ShadowCatboy posted:1. A 5' by 5' pen is pretty big, but doable in a living room. It's more the hutch itself that'll have to be smaller, and I think it'll be focused around being more of a nesting/shelter area. You focus a lot on a hutch. As long as bunnies have some old boxes to make a hide in, they're cool. I offer so many choices for shelters and my rabbits don't use any of them. I think they're too relaxed, or just overly comfortable with their room and various intruders(people and cats). I just want to say about the 2am thing...if you will be in an apartment, your neighbors will probably mind the noise, even if you don't. My walls are thick enough that I can't hear anyone around me unless there is a great effort made to be loud such as stomping on stairs or yelling at top volume. But a rabbit thump is a god drat thunderous boom at 3am. Murphy weighs in at about 4lbs soaking wet, but he will stomp the gently caress out of the floor when he gets irritated with any random thing. Luckily no one has ever complained about it(as I've been fair to not complain about the stupid noisy children) but it is really intrusive and unpleasant when trying to sleep or watch a movie or something.
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Apr 26, 2008 01:37
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I didn't have too many problems adjusting to free roaming but everything was bunny proofed in advance. Heres the pictures finally! I know everyone in PI has been losing sleep over this!  Here's Ender when he was single  Here was his bachlor pad...the bathroom. He was completely free roaming except at night when I usually just shut the bathroom door.  And here's his wife. They have marital problems sometimes. You may recall the spat a few weeks ago. Now they're in the honeymoon phase again  Heres some more cute pictures of them    Making out under the bed...drat kids  And heres the current cage. They're free to come and go as they wish and they never, ever have accidents. The random making GBS threads will stop once they've established territory, but you have to let them explore slowly otherwise they get overwhelmed. I've heard stories of rabbits forgetting where the litterbox was...but that's a dumb rabbit. Anyway, it's an xpen. They are expensive but worth in IMO. I paid about $80 for the 30 inch one as seen here.  I know theres not a lot of toys, but honestly mine don't seem to be big on toys. Their teeth are fine and they are very happy. I think having increased room leads to less bordom. Oh, and I have tile floors which they didn't like at first. They get over it. It just takes them learning how to run differently
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Apr 26, 2008 02:01
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angelicism posted:Apparently my bun is abnormal for liking her upper floor -- the top floor in her pen is just the size of one square, though, and has 'her' sweatshirt tucked up there, so it's a super comfortable 'meatloaf' place, and she's almost always half-napping there whenever I get home. Until last night ours did... as of tonight we're noticing a trend: Knowles has decided the box on the second floor is his domain. He's ALWAYS up there now, either in the box of the landing beside it. Never seen my buns happier since this new cage went up, totally worth the money, time and lost space.
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Apr 26, 2008 02:12
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ShadowCatboy posted:I can certainly consider a larger bun. I just prefer smaller rabbits. Cuter... I'm offended. How can a bunny not be cute? Big or small. Lucy would definitely stomp at you if she heard that, she is the queen of all bunnies and is the most beautiful...according to her.
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Apr 26, 2008 06:07
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girlscoutdropout posted:I'm offended. How can a bunny not be cute? Big or small. Great. Now I'll have to huddle in this corner all night with a net in hand in fear of vorpal bunny action.
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Apr 26, 2008 07:15
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ShadowCatboy posted:Great. Now I'll have to huddle in this corner all night with a net in hand in fear of vorpal bunny action. Yep. Glad you realize that.
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Apr 26, 2008 14:00
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Apparently my husband fell asleep last night without securing the bunnies away.  They ate my stuff that I dumped on the couch after school (stupid, I know) including the plastic that connects the cap to the bottle of my Nalgene, all of the faux leather off my purse, the end of a pencil, parts of my Rose Bowl musician patch on my backpack, and the whole perimeter of my device physics book. Do I need to do anything besides watch and make sure they a pooping okay? Should I try to get them into the vets today? BOYS  . My husband usually stays up at least a few hours later than me, so if he puts them away the bunnies get extra time out, but this isn't the first time this week I've seen little bunnies hopping about when I walk downstairs.
Baitu fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Apr 26, 2008 |
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Apr 26, 2008 15:54
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I would at least monitor them for a day to see if anything appears out of sorts. Everything they munched up should pass through with relative ease, but you never know. X-rays can be very expensive in a "just in case" scenario. After my dummies ate a Jar-Jar toy it cost me $350 to find out that the were just fine. Stupid, but fine. However they ingested an unholy amount of plastic so I had no other way to ease my mind than to bring them in the next day.
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Apr 26, 2008 16:08
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Any time my bunnies eat something stupid I just give them even more long-stemmy hay and push it right through their system. Obviously if its something on the "do-not-eat" list take them to a vet, but I'm learning that in some ways, rabbits have very hardy digestive tracts. Actually while writing this post, I checked and I noticed Almond is on the list. Which my amazing bun-friendly roommate left out on the living room table (that's 1' off the floor) a few days back. Obviously they're ok now, but man, I hate my roommate.
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Apr 26, 2008 17:38
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Baitu posted:Apparently my husband fell asleep last night without securing the bunnies away. Are you sure they ingested a bunch of it? Mine just shred things. I wouldn't worry too much, just watch their poop. Feed extra good hay and dark green veggies (romaine, green leaf lettuce, red leaf lettuce - as much as they'll eat) to flush their system.
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Apr 27, 2008 00:09
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girlscoutdropout posted:Are you sure they ingested a bunch of it? Mine just shred things. Whatever they ripped off is gone. Most of the time they just rip chunks off and leave crap on the floor, but this time they didn't. They both seem to be their normal, cute by evil selves so far.
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Apr 27, 2008 02:35
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Ok so, I have the wonderful problem of Fleas now apparently. I've been waking up with bites on me. However the bunnies don't seem to be too affected. I'm not noticing frequent scratching or anything. This is my first time with buns+fleas+my own place. What are my options for a bun-safe removal (preferably cheap) As you all know by this point my roommate is not the most awesome person, so I cant exactly move the buns into the living room for a day and fumigate my room (who knows if it even stops there anyways) I wonder where the hell I got them from anyways....
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Apr 27, 2008 08:04
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Deceptor101 posted:bun-safe removal (preferably cheap) Cheap flea treatments are almost always fatal to rabbits. Do NOT use anything sold in the petstores - Hartz brand or any powders, especially. Every single one of them is a dangerous scam. Talk to your vet and ask him to prescribe Revolution or Advantage. NOT Frontline, Frontline has been shown to be toxic to rabbits. I prefer Revolution and have used it safely for about 5 years now. The dose is smaller for rabbits than for cats, so you can't use what comes pre-packaged in the tube: your vet will need to weigh the rabbits and measure out individual doses based on weight. It should only take one cat-size tube to treat both rabbits, so that's only about $12, but you're unlikely to get him to give it to you without paying for a P&E for both rabbits. I'd recommend two treatments, 3-4 weeks apart. The only thing to use in the room that's not going to be dangerous is Borax, but I would not let the bunnies have access to it until it's been vacuumed up. But hopefully once you inoculate the hosts, the fleas will leave anyhow.
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Apr 28, 2008 14:48
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alucinor posted:The only thing to use in the room that's not going to be dangerous is Borax, but I would not let the bunnies have access to it until it's been vacuumed up. But hopefully once you inoculate the hosts, the fleas will leave anyhow. What about diatomaceous earth? I was told it's safe for animals, only dangerous to insects, and it's pretty inexpensive. I've used it on my ferrets directly when I found fleas and didn't have enough Advantage, and I used it all around my house and disrupted the ants that had been getting in. I don't have bunnies though, so I wasn't sure if it was safe.
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Apr 28, 2008 17:37
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Dr. Housecat MD posted:What about diatomaceous earth? I was told it's safe for animals, only dangerous to insects, and it's pretty inexpensive. I've used it on my ferrets directly when I found fleas and didn't have enough Advantage, and I used it all around my house and disrupted the ants that had been getting in. I don't have bunnies though, so I wasn't sure if it was safe. It's a safer alternative than bombs or sprays for environmental control, but still should not be used directly on the rabbit - their guts are too sensitive and we just don't have any evidence of what it might or might not do. At least one kind of DE (over 3% silica) is marked as dangerous to humans and animals if ingested. Another consideration is that DE is known to cause lung problems in humans, most sites recommend wearing a mask while applying it. Rabbit lungs are sensitive enough that similar precautions should be taken (i.e. removing the rabbits from the room before it's applied and until the dust has settled; not allowing the dust to be kicked up; removing it via vacuuming when no longer needed).
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Apr 28, 2008 19:31
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So I have a question for all you bunny peoples. What is the best floor material for a bunny's pen? I'm going to expand our bunny's area and this means we have to get new flooring. We currently have a waterproof canvas material with fleece blankets laid over it, and it's worked well. It's important to me that the material be waterproof, because if he has an accident, or gets excited and knocks water everywhere, it's easy to clean up. But most importantly, we don't want any chance of a urine scent remaining, because despite being litter trained he is VERY habit forming, and if he smells his urine anywhere, he will pee there again without hesitating. It's also important that it not be too firm of a material - being kept in a hard, metal enclosure at the bunny shelter is what gave him sore 'tocks that we had to nurse when we got him. So, what do you think - should I stick with my current method, or is there a better solution?
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Apr 30, 2008 00:39
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StrangersInTheNight posted:So I have a question for all you bunny peoples. What is the best floor material for a bunny's pen? I'm going to expand our bunny's area and this means we have to get new flooring. I've used the coroplast recommended by most people for 2 years now and I'm dissatisfied with it. My second rabbit has issues with peeing over the side of the box and the corners leak if you don't seal them, some rabbits will eat the caulking and it's difficult. If they have no problem using a box, coroplast is cheap and awesome but it didn't work for me. My latest cage venture involved going to target and getting a large plastic under-bed storage container. I used the bottom of it for the cage and use the top as a gate to keep them out of bunny-danger areas. It's easy to clean because there are no sharp corners and it's a pretty good size for my two. I would recommend using something like that.
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Apr 30, 2008 03:44
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DOOM Rabbit posted:large plastic under-bed storage container  How big is it? I've never seen one of those larger than 18"x40".
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Apr 30, 2008 14:58
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alucinor posted:
Gigantic? It's a little smaller than the coroplast I was using but I've got a bi-level cage going on now so they have more room (I probably should have mentioned that part)
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Apr 30, 2008 16:55
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DOOM Rabbit posted:Gigantic Cool! I need to find me some of those, they make good hospital cages for piggies: someone once donated a 3'x4' (loving $190) wreath box that I use, but I haven't been able to find them again except for special order from Skymall (Hammacher Schlemmer).
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Apr 30, 2008 17:02
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alucinor posted:Cool! I need to find me some of those, they make good hospital cages for piggies: someone once donated a 3'x4' (loving $190) wreath box that I use, but I haven't been able to find them again except for special order from Skymall (Hammacher Schlemmer). The ones from walmart aren't as good because they have ridges on the bottom but bed bath and beyond has some really big ones.
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Apr 30, 2008 18:22
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StrangersInTheNight posted:We currently have a waterproof canvas material with fleece blankets laid over it, and it's worked well. This seems like a really good solution. Lewis has a little woven rug over a choroplast base, and as mentioned before, the corners leak. I'm moving soon with hopes of expanding his cage. It seems like some sort of tarp would give a lot of flexibility with cleaning/rearranging with time. What kind of material is it and where did you get it?
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May 1, 2008 04:11
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Has anyone ever has issues with rabbits freaking out when moved from a small pen to a larger one? I recently set up the rest of my grids to give both Debbie and Murphy a 4x4 grid space for daily living. Debbie was previously in a 2x2, and Murphy was in a cage slightly smaller(Mind you, this was only when I was not home or when sleeping. Now Debbie has twice the room and loves it, hopping all over and playing. Murphy has almost 3 times the amount of living space now and is constantly freaked out. He spent the first night thumping, leaving me with only two and a half hours of sleep. He's getting better, but still seems like he's not enjoying more room to move around(always hides or just sits in a litterbox). I'm pleased with the setup overall. The cages occupy a 5' x 7.5' area rug which is roughly half of the entire bedroom.
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May 1, 2008 05:27
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alucinor posted:Cheap flea treatments are almost always fatal to rabbits. Do NOT use anything sold in the petstores - Hartz brand or any powders, especially. Every single one of them is a dangerous scam. Well I called the vet, and Revolution requires a checkup and is prescription, but advantage did not, so I got a 1 month cat tube of advantage (21$). I know I don't want to overdose the buns, they're pretty much average size, (4-5 lbs). Could I just give them 1/4 the tube each? under dosing couldn't hurt could it? I really want to do this well, but due to recent pay cuts at work I just can't pay the $110 Checkup fee (55 each) AND the medicine. 
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May 1, 2008 05:57
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Could you just hop on a bathroom scale with your rabbit and subtract your weight without the rabbit? Sounds stupid I know, but that is how I weigh my cats to monitor weight gain/loss.
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May 1, 2008 06:39
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DOOM Rabbit posted:My latest cage venture involved going to target and getting a large plastic under-bed storage container. I used the bottom of it for the cage and use the top as a gate to keep them out of bunny-danger areas. It's easy to clean because there are no sharp corners and it's a pretty good size for my two. I would recommend using something like that. Wait, solid plastic? How is this set up? Bunnies need a lot of air circulation, so I'm wondering how you handle the solid plastic walls. Open top? And if so what do you put over it to keep the little guys from hopping out? If it works I might just get a few of these, cut off the walls, and weld them together with hot glue or something, though that'd kind of gently caress up the smooth finish.. Windy posted:Could you just hop on a bathroom scale with your rabbit and subtract your weight without the rabbit? Sounds stupid I know, but that is how I weigh my cats to monitor weight gain/loss. For those without nice, accurate digital bathroom scales, you could probably go to the supermarket with bunny in tow and put them in one of those weighing pans for veggies in the produce section. Just be sure to scurry out of there before the manager gets on your case.
ShadowCatboy fucked around with this message at 07:32 on May 1, 2008 |
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May 1, 2008 07:17
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Deceptor101 posted:Well I called the vet, and Revolution requires a checkup and is prescription, but advantage did not, so I got a 1 month cat tube of advantage (21$). I know I don't want to overdose the buns, they're pretty much average size, (4-5 lbs). Could I just give them 1/4 the tube each? under dosing couldn't hurt could it? I really want to do this well, but due to recent pay cuts at work I just can't pay the $110 Checkup fee (55 each) AND the medicine. Underdosing may not kill all the fleas. Better to accurately dose the first time. First: Which tube did you get, the one for cats/kittens under 9 lbs, or the one for adult cats over 9 lbs? Also, look for the prescribing information pamphlet that should have come in the package. Does it say something like "Dosage: x mL of imidacloprid per kg of animal weight"? You do need accurate animal weights to do this, so ask your vet if they will let you bring the rabbits in to be weighed. 8/10 clinics I've been to will do this for free. Once you know the weight and the dose per kg, the math is fairly straightforward. Edit: It will also help your dosing if the clinic will give you a 1 mL insulin syringe (without the needle tip). And, make sure you get it directly on the skin, not just on the top of the undercoat. alucinor fucked around with this message at 14:53 on May 1, 2008 |
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May 1, 2008 14:48
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ShadowCatboy posted:For those without nice, accurate digital bathroom scales, you could probably go to the supermarket with bunny in tow and put them in one of those weighing pans for veggies in the produce section. Oh god, I laughed loud enough that Zen now thinks I'm a crazy person and is hiding under the chair. Eek. I figure it's about time to get a nice bathroom scale anyway, my own weight needs a bit of monitoring. :/
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May 1, 2008 16:30
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ShadowCatboy posted:Wait, solid plastic? How is this set up? The underbed storage containers are only about 6-10 inches tall on the sides. The bunnies have a little step stool to help them hop in and out until i get the tools to trim the door side a little bit. I use shelving squares wired and zip tied together for the walls. So only the bottom is solid plastic. If you'd like, I'll take a picture of it (though it will be a camera phone, my regular camera died).
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May 1, 2008 18:10
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Foaming Chicken posted:This seems like a really good solution. Lewis has a little woven rug over a choroplast base, and as mentioned before, the corners leak. I'm moving soon with hopes of expanding his cage. It seems like some sort of tarp would give a lot of flexibility with cleaning/rearranging with time. What kind of material is it and where did you get it? It's actually a repurposed bottom from Marshall play pen: http://www.amazon.com/Small-Animal-Playpen-Mat-Cover/dp/B0009YHROE/ref=pd_sim_k_img_2 http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6067+11281+14629&pcatid=14629 drsfosterandsmith.com reports that it's "Made of durable, pet-safe 100% polyester with PVC backing" - it seems it's just a polyester/canvas-type tarp. I've been searching for just the basic fabric so I'd have more options...lemme know if you find it!
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May 1, 2008 23:09
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http://www.rabbit.org/fun/net-bunnies.html Totally cute bun photos! I could sit here for hours and never get bored.
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May 2, 2008 00:56
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alucinor posted:Underdosing may not kill all the fleas. Better to accurately dose the first time. Well here's a picture of all the info that came with it  Otherwise, the actual tube says "9.1% imidacloprid .014 fl. oz." I'll see if I can take the buns in for weighing Sunday, no free time when they're open till then.
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May 2, 2008 09:01
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Deceptor101 posted:Well here's a picture of all the info that came with it At least I can tell that "2-9" means they gave you the tube for kittens & cats under 9lbs. I can't find a prescribing insert that actually gives a per-kg dose anywhere on the web, maybe they don't actually have one. But the labeling information says that tube contains 0.4 mL of liquid. So if 9lbs = 0.4 mL and there's 16 oz in a pound, 144 oz = 0.4 mL and therefore 1 oz = .0028 mL. So if X is your animal's weight in ounces, .0028*X is how many mL to dose her with. I hope this helps without being too close to giving out dosage information. Advantage has a pretty good safety record but it never hurts to err on the side of caution, and it bugs me that your vet didn't give you exact dosage information when you picked it up. Also, be aware: the inert ingredients include isopropyl alcohol. It's a known irritant to rabbit skin. You will probably see them shaking (twitching their skin like a horse shakes off a fly), rearing and shaking (like a dog shaking off water) and displacement grooming/general irritability for 5-20 minutes or so after the application. That's normal. If you notice any redness or swelling, or discomfort behaviors which continue more than 4-8 hours after the application, SEE YOUR VET.
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May 2, 2008 15:24
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