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Savington posted:Yeah, Emilio let me do this at Buttonwillow last year. I'm running RS2's right now. the course we were doing I only ran .2 seconds faster on the NT01's vs my hankooks, and emilio was .7 faster than me in my car.  but yes NT01's rule, I need another set of 6ul's
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May 5, 2008 08:42
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Ulf posted:"4th gear ring", it's coming from your transmission (and sometimes happens in 3rd too). Some out of spec part or something, nobody's really pinned it down to my knowledge. It doesn't really get worse, so after a while you learn not to worry about it.
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May 5, 2008 15:32
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Phone posted:Which front lip do you have on your's? Garage Vary? destructo fucked around with this message at 17:15 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 5, 2008 18:22
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mobn posted:You know, I think the Miata may be the only car that I don't care for in white. I don't get it. Does this mean you don't like them or something?
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May 5, 2008 18:30
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Ziploc posted:I don't get it. Does this mean you don't like them or something? Re-read that sentence again. I structured it a bit weirdly, but I was simply saying that the Miata is the only car that I don't think looks good in white. Usually a white car is pure sex, but it just doesn't work for the Miata. It just makes it look like bedroom walls.
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May 5, 2008 19:41
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Dicker posted:I'm running RS2's right now. Stock power car? With a turbo I dropped like 3 seconds switching to R-comps. 
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May 5, 2008 19:52
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drat you non-DIN bezel.  
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May 5, 2008 20:19
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Phone posted:drat you non-DIN bezel. That is a horrendously ugly head unit you got there. Excellent choice on the shift knob though.
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May 5, 2008 20:56
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Phone posted:drat you non-DIN bezel. http://miataroadster.com/interior.html I just shaved a bit of the plastic off of the sides and was able to shove mine in. It still looks like poo poo though.
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May 5, 2008 21:00
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FireTora posted:That is a horrendously ugly head unit you got there. Excellent choice on the shift knob though.
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May 5, 2008 21:11
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Firetora's just saying that about the shift knob since I followed his lead and got a Mazda6 gear knob. My camera phone isn't too great, but I think that the Pioneer unit that I got was fairly good looking and it isn't too flashy. 
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May 5, 2008 21:16
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Phone posted:drat you non-DIN bezel. Wait.. is that why I always had weird issues? I thought it was either me being retarded or the poor build quality of the aftermarket headunits/kits/faceplate surround bezels. laymil posted:If you've got a 90-93, there are regular double din bezels available. Why wouldn't it work for 94-97? I don't remember there being any differences in that piece. edit: wait does the 94-97 actually have a DIN sized bezel? I've never noticed 
ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 22:37 on May 5, 2008 |
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May 5, 2008 22:29
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The 94-96 don't have DIN bezels, it's just a bit off. The 96.5 - 97s have DIN bezels.
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May 5, 2008 23:20
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FireTora posted:That is a horrendously ugly head unit you got there. Excellent choice on the shift knob though. http://www.thompson-automotive.com/voodoo.html is the only answer.
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May 6, 2008 04:38
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StankCheeze posted:http://www.thompson-automotive.com/voodoo.html is the only answer.
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May 6, 2008 05:02
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destructo posted:I bought a Magnum and while I love the feel of it, I like the leverage of the stock shifter better (and the weight). Anyone want a somewhat used spun Magnum? sure. What does it weigh (for shipping purposes)? edit: poo poo, nevermind. Those things are expensive. I don't have enough money to buy that off you right now.
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May 6, 2008 05:23
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$200 for a shift knob? That takes retarded to a whole new level, jesus.
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May 6, 2008 06:30
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Mine fits quite nicely in my 96 - here's a protip: for the lower DIN, go to a junkyard and grab a pocket out of a MX3 / Protege. Pops right in and fits perfectly, and plastic is nicer quality than what you get in one of those din conversions. I'll snap a shot of mine tomorrow.
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May 6, 2008 07:04
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Schwack posted:$200 for a shift knob? That takes retarded to a whole new level, jesus. Ulf fucked around with this message at 07:11 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 6, 2008 07:09
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iscariot posted:Mine fits quite nicely in my 96 - here's a protip: for the lower DIN, go to a junkyard and grab a pocket out of a MX3 / Protege. Pops right in and fits perfectly, and plastic is nicer quality than what you get in one of those din conversions. I'll snap a shot of mine tomorrow. Phone posted:The 94-96 don't have DIN bezels, it's just a bit off. The 96.5 - 97s have DIN bezels.
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May 6, 2008 07:42
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My lip is an OEM R lip that has met the ground alot, and has a 949racing sticker on the front. Savington - all 109whp! I have a Kaaz LSD so i dont really have issues putting the power down..  Heres a close up of the lip 
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May 6, 2008 08:09
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I have the same lip, its just that the sticker threw me off.
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May 6, 2008 08:10
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Dicker posted:
I want to know everything about this. How much, helical or clutch, availability, how long does it last if it's a clutch, 1.5 or 2, how's the lock-up, more biased towards drift/track or autocross, etc.
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May 6, 2008 08:11
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ah... well, I'll see how well my 94 takes it. Also - Savington, if you drop your head in here - I'm still a good 4 months away (at least - have to finish the SHO, then swap over some of the go fast bits off the 96) from building up the 94. I'm debating a DIY turbo vs. a kit - I'm already running 9psi with the m45. The 94 is going to get an engine-out buildup, H beams and maybe 9:1 pistons. (I still haven't budgeted everything yet..) A. worth going with a 99head on a boosted application (for valve float)? B. Whats a cheap(ish) kit that's easy to build up? All I know are FM, Greddy, and Begi Or am i putting the cart before the horse?
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May 6, 2008 08:13
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Savington posted:I want to know everything about this. How much, helical or clutch, availability, how long does it last if it's a clutch, 1.5 or 2, how's the lock-up, more biased towards drift/track or autocross, etc. How Much - $830 shipped is retail through touge factory with a 2L of kaaz oil (like 45$) i paid $730 in january during a group buy. Clutch Type - http://www.kaazusa.com/lsd.html Easy to get, Kaaz USA is based in orange county CA. it lasts a long while as long as you maintain it (oil change every 5k miles with non synthetic and a friction modifier, or if you have the money, kaaz oil which is 22$ per change. I use sta-lube GL5 75w90 with equitorque friction modifier) Lock up can be fine tuned by how much friction modifier you use, i run about 3.5 ounces of it in the diff, and its seamless, no chatter, no harsh engagement, just a little tire chatter doing tight uturns on the gas. If you want it to lock like god just welded your diff together just run straight gear oil with no modifier, but it will be hell making low speed turns. It's a 1.5 way and emilio said he liked the way my car felt, and I thourougly enjoy having it. I'll be at big willow on wednesday, and I'll report back how it felt on the track vs autox. If you want a 2way to be a madtite drifter or for maximum launch, you can get the maruha 2way from chikara.
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May 6, 2008 08:36
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Dicker posted:it lasts a long while as long as you maintain it (oil change every 5k miles with non synthetic and a friction modifier, or if you have the money, kaaz oil which is 22$ per change. I use sta-lube GL5 75w90 with equitorque friction modifier) Jesus, 5k diff oil changes? Does that thing just poo poo clutch material every two seconds?
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May 6, 2008 16:27
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its preventitive, the fluid comes out pretty dang clean. if you're doing an autocross of drift day and really beating on the diff, you want to change it afterwards.
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May 6, 2008 16:42
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mobn posted:sure. What does it weigh (for shipping purposes)?
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May 6, 2008 17:17
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destructo posted:Well, let me know -- I'd let it go for ~27 shipped? I'll post up a pic in the AI classifieds in a bit. Doesn't look like you made the post in the Marketplace, so I'll offer here. I'll take it for $27 shipped if mobn doesn't want it. This is the spun/polished aluminum without the clear pearl finish, right? Let me know your paypal.
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May 6, 2008 20:55
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goku chewbacca posted:Doesn't look like you made the post in the Marketplace, so I'll offer here. I'll take it for $27 shipped if mobn doesn't want it. This is the spun/polished aluminum without the clear pearl finish, right? Let me know your paypal. It's yours man. I don't have that much money just for a shift knob right now.
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May 6, 2008 21:06
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iscariot posted:The 94 is going to get an engine-out buildup, H beams and maybe 9:1 pistons. (I still haven't budgeted everything yet..) What are your horsepower goals? Folks that are doing H-beams and forged pistons and 99 heads are usually searching for a reliable 275whp+.
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May 6, 2008 23:01
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mobn posted:Re-read that sentence again. I structured it a bit weirdly, but I was simply saying that the Miata is the only car that I don't think looks good in white. Usually a white car is pure sex, but it just doesn't work for the Miata. It just makes it look like bedroom walls. Sorry. I thought that said "while" not white. 
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May 7, 2008 03:57
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I'm thinking 200-250, guesstimating (dreaming) that my current s/c is good for around 150-175 - I was going to go to the drat megasquirt they had at diyautotune a few weeks ago and do some dyno pulls, only to have to replace my fathers timing belt.. grrr.. so, no dyno.. but i'm a stickler for do it once, do it right, and if possible do it cheap.. (well, now I am... I wasn't while building up my 96... )
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May 7, 2008 05:08
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goku chewbacca posted:Doesn't look like you made the post in the Marketplace, so I'll offer here. I'll take it for $27 shipped if mobn doesn't want it. This is the spun/polished aluminum without the clear pearl finish, right? Let me know your paypal. .
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May 7, 2008 05:18
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I am going to pick-up my first miata tonight - a red 1998 stock NB.
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May 8, 2008 09:12
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iscariot posted:I'm thinking 200-250, guesstimating (dreaming) that my current s/c is good for around 150-175 - I was going to go to the drat megasquirt they had at diyautotune a few weeks ago and do some dyno pulls, only to have to replace my fathers timing belt.. grrr.. so, no dyno.. 175 on an M45 is doable, but not intelligent. MP62 or turbo is the way to go for anything more than 150. (basically, gently caress the M45.) 200-250 is a HUGE range. A reliable 200whp is a GT2554R and a stock engine; a reliable 250whp is a GT2860R/RS and forged rods. I suspect that the 200-220 range is what you are really shooting for; for that range, leave your motor alone and use a GT2560R turbo. If you ever want to upgrade, the 2860 is a simple upgrade to give you headroom to 250, and at 250 you'll want to crack the motor open and do pistons and rods. You can do a 99 head and all the supporting mods, and then use a 2560 and hit 220whp, but you really don't need to spend all that money. To crack the motor open and do forged guts, billet OPG, ARP hardware, and a 99 head with a good valvetrain, you're looking at 3-4k minimum. For 220whp, here's what I would do today (this is very, very close to what I actually did): -Stock internals '94 longblock -BEGi-S kit -MSPNP/LC-1/Rx7 460cc injectors -DIY intercooler/BOV setup -3" exhaust If you insist on opening the motor, use forged rods (CAT or ETD) and OEM 9.5:1 '99 pistons. The OEM cast pistons will do 300whp with ease, and they will cold idle MUCH smoother than forged pistons and last quite a bit longer. Forged pistons aren't really necessary until you are looking for more than 300whp, and if you can get away with cast ones the motor will remain much more streetable. Remember that if you plan to actually drive the car, you'll need a clutch (ACT HD is best, and will take 220whp easily), and if you plan to track it, you'll need a larger radiator and an oil cooler at a bare minimum. A coolant reroute and a vented hood are both highly recommended for track use. You'll also need suspension to handle it, etc. 
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May 8, 2008 09:40
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Aye - LC1, 440 supra low-z resistors, MS w/ peak and hold, are already bought and paid for. I lucked into the m45 for cheap... then got somewhat addicted to adding power. Sounds like I need to go ahead and pick up Corky's book (outdated yes I know..)
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May 8, 2008 09:48
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I had my car MOT'd (emissions test and basic safety stuff) yesterday and while it was up on the ramp I noticed some oil on the plastic plate at the front (underneath) of the car. Without taking the cover off I can't see what's leaking, and I don't have tools or anywhere to work on it where i'm living at the moment so i'll have to take it into a garage. Any idea what it could be? There's no oil in my parking space and it was last serviced in Feb so could it just be oil spilled on there from the service?
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May 8, 2008 10:44
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Savington posted:175 on an M45 is doable, but not intelligent. MP62 or turbo is the way to go for anything more than 150. (basically, gently caress the M45.)
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May 8, 2008 10:56
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Sorry to butt in again, but since the 323 GTX rear diff is the exact same unit that Mazda eventually put in the 1.6L NA cars, I wanted to know what a good limited slip diff if for those early ones. I'd want to buy used, and the whole pumpkin already set up. I have awd and drive hard primarily on gravel/dirt/sand, so lots of rear lockup isn't the biggest issue. Linearity is, however. A recommendation on a unit and a hint for what sites have classifieds. I'm located in SoCal, if everyone didn't know already. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:51 on May 8, 2008 |
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May 8, 2008 16:48
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