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Baby Hitler posted:Sorry to butt in again, but since the 323 GTX rear diff is the exact same unit that Mazda eventually put in the 1.6L NA cars, I wanted to know what a good limited slip diff if for those early ones. I'd want to buy used, and the whole pumpkin already set up. I have awd and drive hard primarily on gravel/dirt/sand, so lots of rear lockup isn't the biggest issue. Linearity is, however. In 1994 the Miata went to a Torsen LSD, which does fit the 1.6 pumpkin and is by far a superior LSD but may be absolutely useless if you're planning on going off-road. I'm assuming that for your application, a clutch type LSD might be the best option. Check Miata.net and look under the forum sponsors. Usually there's small discounts for forum members there.
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May 8, 2008 17:16
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brosef deluxe posted:In 1994 the Miata went to a Torsen LSD, which does fit the 1.6 pumpkin and is by far a superior LSD but may be absolutely useless if you're planning on going off-road.
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May 8, 2008 19:16
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Half-shafts and whatnot. It's kind of a pain in the rear end, but completely do-able.
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May 8, 2008 21:48
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http://knoxville.craigslist.org/car/673492763.html Dude, gently caress. I'm selling my hardtop, man.
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May 9, 2008 22:36
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Hey guys, I've had my second miata now for a few months (White 1990), and decided not to be a giant pussy this time, and went with the stick shift (I have no clue why I went with a 94 with an automatic. Kill me!) So anyway, I've had it for a few months now, and despite the high mileage, the car has run great. I plan to have the car repainted, among a few other things. What my question is though, is in regards to the engine. It's an original Miata that falls under this: http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html My Miata has a short nose crankshaft, and I'm running on 182k miles. Mechanically, the car is in sound shape for the amount of miles ran on it (The tranny was rebuilt, and has undergone maintenance like clockwork during its life) So what I want to know if there are any other 1990 owners with this problem, and if they had any issues with the short nose crankshaft. What to look out for, that kind of thing. Miata.net says it can happen overnight, but I always trust the goons with this kind of stuff. I know the simple answer is to drop another engine in there, and I plan to drop a 94 engine in there when I have the funds to do so, but aside from keeping up with maintenance, is there anything I should watch out for? Thanks guys!
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May 10, 2008 00:45
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Phone posted:http://knoxville.craigslist.org/car/673492763.html 
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May 10, 2008 01:18
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Pledio posted:Hey guys, The short nose crankshaft issue is almost as overblown as "boost in apex out" is with rx-7s. Some people have problems, plenty of others don't. As long as you take care of the car, don't worry about it. Just do like any normal person does and make sure you have enough insurance or cash put away to take care of any problems that arise.
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May 10, 2008 05:23
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Phone posted:http://knoxville.craigslist.org/car/673492763.html I wonder why it has an R package rear skirt...
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May 10, 2008 06:55
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willd58 posted:Would it be a realistic/good idea to aim for 220 with either the MP62 or Jackson Racing supercharger on a mk2? Apart from the kit, would upgrades to the engine be needed to handle this kind of power? 220 on an MP62 hotside with an MS is doable, but not easy. 220 on an M45 (JRSC) is, for all intents and purposes, impossible. For 220, the ideal setup would either be an intercooled hotside MP62 or a GT2560R. On a lighter note,  
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May 10, 2008 10:10
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mobn posted:The short nose crankshaft issue is almost as overblown as "boost in apex out" is with rx-7s. Some people have problems, plenty of others don't. As long as you take care of the car, don't worry about it. Just do like any normal person does and make sure you have enough insurance or cash put away to take care of any problems that arise. Seconded. If the engine has held up to 180k so far, it's not likely it will explode tomorrow...so as long as you don't do a timing belt and botch the reassembly (which is the number one problem, the short nose crank lets you put it together incorrectly) you should be fine near-indefinitely. And if you do have a problem? It's not like a 1.8 longblock is pricey 
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May 10, 2008 13:57
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Phone posted:http://knoxville.craigslist.org/car/673492763.html Haha. Just because it's a 4 grand option when you bought the car doesn't mean it's worth that used buddy. On another note, does anyone have soundclips of the Corksport NB dual exhaust? I've looked everywhere for it and it seems like no one has one. I know I shouldn't modify my exhaust at all if I'm going to go turbo, but I'm not going to for a while now and the corksport looks great. I'm just sick of sounding like a sewing machine when I start the car. AkrisD fucked around with this message at 21:01 on May 10, 2008 |
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May 10, 2008 15:31
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I just finished installing my Tokico Illuminas and I have some questions. Did you use a jamb nut on the top of the shock? With that nut there I can't put the adjuster cap on. Or did you leave the thick washer off. Or did you just leave the adjuster off all together. Or did we do it wrong and should be able to get it all on.
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May 10, 2008 23:16
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AkrisD posted:Haha. Just because it's a 4 grand option when you bought the car doesn't mean it's worth that used buddy. On a different note, 16 hours later and I have a new robbins canvas factory-style top on my car. Two of those hours were spent figuring out how we could get the top closed for the first time. Had to loosen the rain rail I had just spent half an hour tightening up, lengthened the latches as far as they would go, then we tried clamps, force, weight, etc. until we were finally able to get it closed. It's not a very tight seal up front, so hopefully we can tighten it up a bit tonight as it's supposed to rain tomorrow. Probably two more of those hours were caused by the fact that Robbins' instructions tell you when to take off the cables but forget to mention when to put them back on. I was getting in to do one of the last steps when the cables I had tucked swung down in my face. Had to completely redo the B-pillars. I also decided at one point to just take the bows off of the car and work on it in that way, this saved a lot of frustration in the end. Keith Tanner recommends this, I should have listened to him and done it from the start. Robbins gives you 20 rivets for a job that takes 4. Between mistakes with the upper B-pillars and an initial bad job or two on the under-pillar curtain, I used all of them. I could probably do it again in 8 hours (I'm a bit slow when working on things if you couldn't tell), but I don't even want to think about it for another 5 years.
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May 12, 2008 16:55
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Ulf posted:Ugh. Yeah, I'll be paying someone to put a new top on the '99...which just got accelerated greatly due to a jackass knifing the existing holes to make them big enough to reach in through 
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May 12, 2008 17:08
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goku chewbacca posted:Doesn't look like you made the post in the Marketplace, so I'll offer here. I'll take it for $27 shipped if mobn doesn't want it. This is the spun/polished aluminum without the clear pearl finish, right? Let me know your paypal. .
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May 12, 2008 17:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ugh. Yeah, I'll be paying someone to put a new top on the '99...which just got accelerated greatly due to a jackass knifing the existing holes to make them big enough to reach in through I never lock the doors on mine ('02 has RFID keys) but I just know someone's going to cut it without checking first anyways.
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May 12, 2008 18:03
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Ulf posted:drat. At least it wasn't an intact top. Bonus points for getting almost all of the poo poo stolen back within minutes...the jackass hit the garage door opener he was lifting while we were inside so the cops were on the scene in no time flat. I think they may have caught the bastard, too...they actually spent a good two or three hours collecting prints.
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May 12, 2008 18:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:Bonus points for getting almost all of the poo poo stolen back within minutes...the jackass hit the garage door opener he was lifting while we were inside so the cops were on the scene in no time flat. I think they may have caught the bastard, too...they actually spent a good two or three hours collecting prints. Can't you sue the guy for the new top?
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May 12, 2008 21:17
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I just patched the hole that got slashed in mine from January - Alabama Chrome had worked well until last week. Since some of ya'll are doing your tops now *SAVE THE WINDOW CUT OUT* *SAVE THE WINDOW CUT OUT* SAVE THE WINDOW CUT OUT It makes perfect patching material. I sewed mine up, cut a new patch out of the new top I got for my 94, slathered it in vinyl glue, slapped it on. Looks much better than black ducttape. I'm doing my top in the 94 right now - and it's the one job I said I would gladly pay someone else to do. I'm finding with the rollbar not in the way things are going much faster, probably 2 hours into it so far. Then I have to install the rollbar. Sigh. 3rd one I've done. Then I get to install a top in my dads 96. Sigh. 3rd one I'll have done. iscariot fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 12, 2008 |
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May 12, 2008 21:20
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Ziploc posted:Can't you sue the guy for the new top? 1) It will be a few days before the prints come back - since nobody was actually stabbed / shot / threatened / etc it's not exactly high priority. 2) If the 'person of interest' they talked to (who claims he found the stuff on the side of the street...which is a stretch BUT they did find some of it scattered elsewhere) does have any prints on the car they're going to charge him, but I doubt there's anything there to sue - the kind of guy who rides around on a bicycle and rifles through a car for anything worth selling is not the kind of guy with $500 to sue for. I'm not terribly bent out of shape about the top since it's been something we've been putting off as is, but now with these larger rips it's basically unusable. Kinda wish I could find a complete late NB top and frame to just swap over though
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May 12, 2008 21:31
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My stupidity with not checking my oil regularly finally caught up with me. It caused a spun bearing on my 99. Now it looks like I need to either rebuild the engine for $4400 or get a used one put in for $3400. Is there any reason to spend the extra $1000 on the rebuild? Is that just a gently caress off price because it sucks to do a rebuild?
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May 13, 2008 17:28
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So only after 10 hours combined, I have new pads + rotors and a clean car. I think it resembles "Brilliant Black" again, but gently caress if my paint isn't worthless at < 6ft. 
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May 13, 2008 22:06
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I adjusted the top latches on my hardtop so that they don't rattle around. When I go over a bump or pothole, I can hear the hardtop bounce a little bit. Should I adjust them tighter?
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May 18, 2008 00:44
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Phone lose the pin stripes, those things are so distracting.
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May 18, 2008 00:54
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aksuur posted:I adjusted the top latches on my hardtop so that they don't rattle around. When I go over a bump or pothole, I can hear the hardtop bounce a little bit. Should I adjust them tighter? Are you sure it's not your soft top bouncing around? Thats what it is in my case and I don't even have the side strikers for my hardtop.
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May 18, 2008 01:14
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TooLShack posted:Phone lose the pin stripes, those things are so distracting. I'm afraid to tell you that under the pinstripes... lies another set of pinstripes.
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May 18, 2008 04:51
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You mean from paint fade, or they installed one over another?
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May 18, 2008 05:36
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Behind the silver pinstripes is red pinstripes. At the last autox I went to, the painter's tape took off a portion of the silver pinstripe. So on my driver's door, the bottom one goes silver - red - silver. CLASSY!
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May 18, 2008 09:44
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Phone posted:Behind the silver pinstripes is red pinstripes. At the last autox I went to, the painter's tape took off a portion of the silver pinstripe. So on my driver's door, the bottom one goes silver - red - silver. Mine had a hideous beige stick-on pinstripe to match the top when I bought it. After I got it all off, it took two hours of work with a claybar to remove all the adhesive residue it left behind.
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May 18, 2008 10:04
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FireTora posted:Are you sure it's not your soft top bouncing around? Thats what it is in my case and I don't even have the side strikers for my hardtop. Nah, I tightened the latches a bit and it's all good. I just don't want to be over-tightening and have something else go wrong. Speaking of soft tops, is the cover supposed to be used when a hardtop is on?
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May 18, 2008 10:33
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No. If you try to use the tonneau cover, it'll interfere with the latches and won't seal quite properly.
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May 18, 2008 20:05
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Time for new brake pads. I have heard good things about eagle. Any suggestions? Also, I have never changed them myself before. Is it pretty easy?
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May 19, 2008 03:24
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I just changed mine. Since I'm retarded, it took me like 6 hours for pads and rotors, but just pads is pretty easy. You need to be careful about the rear calipers, but its not too bad. Just take it slow and with caution.
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May 19, 2008 03:38
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If they are stuck to the hubs OEM discs and some aftermarket ones have threaded holes to thread a bolt through to pop them off. And the rear calipers are retracted by a hex adjuster, not a C-clamp. And for adjusting your ebrake, make sure you loosen the handle adjustment all the way before doing the caliper adjustment. (Take the cover off the lower part of the ebrake) Once the rear calipers are adjusted properly then adjust the cable through the ebrake handle.
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May 19, 2008 07:43
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Any brand suggestions? or is eagle the end all be all of pads?
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May 20, 2008 06:41
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I've never even heard of Eagle pads. For street, daily driving use with not a lot of high-performance driving, the OEM pads are actually pretty good. For a higher performance car, look at a Hawk HP+ or Axxis Ultimate.
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May 20, 2008 08:17
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I'm assuming you mean hawk brake pads? carbotech is the hot setup, but they arent cheap. 949racing carries them.
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May 20, 2008 08:18
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Fitted my Garage Vary lip today  . To be honest, it does feel noticeably more planted at speed.
destructo fucked around with this message at 08:23 on May 20, 2008 |
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May 20, 2008 08:21
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Cenuji posted:My stupidity with not checking my oil regularly finally caught up with me. It caused a spun bearing on my 99. Now it looks like I need to either rebuild the engine for $4400 or get a used one put in for $3400. Is there any reason to spend the extra $1000 on the rebuild? Is that just a gently caress off price because it sucks to do a rebuild? Wow you REALLY need to shop around for motors. I believe good motors can be had for less then what you are talking about. This is just one option: http://planetmiata.com/01-05_pricing.htm
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May 21, 2008 06:37
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I have a 1997. I notice that I hit the end of the brake pedal travel before my brakes lock up. In hot grippy situations I can't lock up my Falken 512s. (Not Azenis) In the rain or in situations where the situation is anything other than ideal then I can lock up the fronts. I can lock them on cold tires or cold or smooth asphalt so I'm not lacking very much braking power. The pads on the front are whatever noname disc/pad combo that the neighbor garage owner gave me. The pedal is firm and not mushy and feels good. The brake fluid is not dark colored which I am surprised at. So I don't think the hydraulic system is to blame. Will Hawk pads increase stopping power? Or do they deal with heat and abuse better?
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May 21, 2008 06:41
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